Gentlemen good day, I bought a working saw, at the seller it worked beautifully, it has a 5 pin power connection, at my place an old extension cord for 4 pin, I bought an adapter, connected and the motor buzzes not starting. How do I get around this? Second question, if the motor has such a control "cabinet", can I connect it bypassing the cabinet and make a normal force switch?
Regards
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has a 5 pin power connection at my old 4 pin extension cable, I bought an adapter, connected and the motor buzzes not starting. How do I figure it out?
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For a start it is to knock out this adapter made by what rationalist. Such use of adapters is prohibited by law.
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In the first instance, the correct connection of all three phases to be checked.
As a second step, without switching on the machine, I suggest measuring the phase voltages at the input of this box.
Why is there that cloud of capacitors and two contactors? Does the saw have two motors or one?
Those capacitors suggest that the power supply is single phase.
Good morning, I bought a working saw, at the seller's it worked beautifully]
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Good morning to you too!
From the first picture and story it appears that the motor is indeed 3-phase.
If you have a "POWER" supply , from what I remember meant a connection also 3-phase 220/380V, or nowadays higher in the European community standard, then there is nothing to prevent you to modify / simplify the power supply of this motor in a correct and legal way.
Further photos of this box indicate an informal power supply for a three-phase motor from a single phase, by attaching a capacitor bank.
Are you sure that this 'beautiful' demonstration at the vendor's was powered from 'force' or single phase though?
To answer your question:
Yes, you can power this motor from your 3-phase "power", but this modification would nevertheless have to be entrusted to an electrician (!) who knows what he is doing....
It is too much to know what has been contrived and concocted here. Some kind of a self-creation.
Previously, this could have been a right-left control with two contactors and the capacitor bank used to power a single-phase motor.
What I see there is that only the right contactor is used to switch on the motor, power input from the bottom to the right contactor, output to the motor at the top by the left contactor. Only the left switch in white works (via the interlock on the left contactor). Contactor coil control uses N wire, coils must be 220 volts.
In this situation a 400/230V supply is required with a separate neutral wire - 5p socket.
To be able to supply from a 4p socket, the control system needs to be upgraded - fitting a trafo from 400V to control (230V) or safety (24V) voltage + replacing the DDR contactor coil, or finding a 380V coil and supplying the control from two phases. There may be a problem with the price of the transformer and availability of the coil for the contactor.
A unit with a manual override does not meet safety rules, there must be a pushbutton start-stop system and a mushroom safety button. This means further modification of the control system. It may be simpler to knock out this whole box and use a ready-made circuit breaker on a contactor made by Kedu or Tripus with a 400V coil, with the possible addition of a separate motor switch or thermal relay.
The fact that the motor is humming and will not start is probably due to the lack of a phase in your electrical system.
On the other hand, the fact that the engine buzzes and won't start is probably due to the lack of one phase in your electrical system.
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Or the fact that the contactor is not switching on all phases (at the vendor it was working, then there was a transport).
It is also worth checking the motor for mechanical blockage.
Or the fact that the contactor does not switch on all phases
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Possibly, but I don't know if DDR contactors caused such problems.
I rescued an Elester SLA16 recently because there were burnt contacts on one track, but as it turned out there is a plastic wedge between the core and the element with the moving contacts, the plastic crumbles over time and without it there is 2mm missing to press the contacts together.
As for the subject. On Allegro a Breve TMM 400/230 V transformer starts at £135 for 50 VA, for this you will definitely need holders + fuses for the primary winding (two fuses, for one and the other phase) and possibly the secondary winding. I think a minimum 30 VA transformer would be necessary for this contactor, stronger ones are more expensive.
The discussion revolves around the issue of connecting a wood splitter's 5-pin power plug to a 4-pin socket, resulting in the motor buzzing without starting. Users suggest checking the correct connection of all three phases and measuring phase voltages at the input of the control cabinet. The motor is identified as likely being 3-phase, and concerns are raised about the legality and safety of using adapters. Suggestions include bypassing the control cabinet for a direct connection, ensuring proper phase supply, and considering modifications to the power supply system. Users also discuss potential mechanical blockages and the need for an electrician to perform any modifications safely. Summary generated by the language model.