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How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years

p.kaczmarek2 3546 51

TL;DR

  • The HAXON MEVA 2.34 kW portable air conditioner is reviewed after three years of use, with thermal imaging and cost-effectiveness checks.
  • It uses a single exhaust pipe and a separately bought window sealing sleeve, and poor insulation noticeably reduces cooling performance.
  • Cooling draws about 700–750 W, while fan mode uses around 100 W; the exhaust outlet can reach 15 °C and the pipe 40 °C or more.
  • It can cool a roughly 10 m² room with a computer up to 200 W even when outside temperatures hit 35 °C, but it is very noisy and inefficient compared with a split unit.
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  • How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years
    Here, I will share my three years’ experience and conclusions regarding the use of the HAXON MEVA 2.34 kW portable air conditioner. It is designed for use in rooms with an area of up to 25m² and has a single exhaust pipe for expelling hot air. The window sealing sleeve itself must, of course, be purchased separately. Here, I will test its performance and cost-effectiveness, and show the results using thermal imaging.

    Reason for purchase
    Portable air conditioners are, by their very nature, not particularly efficient, and the noise significantly reduces user comfort. Unfortunately, however, living conditions sometimes force one to make such a decision. When there is no option for a fixed installation, one has to make do with simpler and cheaper solutions. I paid just under 1,000 zł for the unit shown here.
    How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years

    First impressions
    The unit itself is large and heavy. The set includes a remote control, and the control panel features a simple display and several options, including two operating levels, an additional ‘silent’ mode, and cooling, dehumidifying and fan modes. However, after cycling through the available modes, you quickly realise that the noise level is similar across all settings, and the ‘Night’ button is really just for show.
    How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years

    Installation
    This device can be installed completely non-invasively. All you need is a sleeve that fits over the window. You can buy it for less than 100 zł. The catch, however, is that the poorer the insulation, the poorer the cooling performance. This brings us back to the same point I mentioned at the start – we pay for mobility with a loss of efficiency.
    How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years

    Performance and operation
    The device displays the current temperature on the top front panel, and you can also set the target temperature there. However, I find this a pointless gimmick. I’ve never been in a situation where using this made sense during a heatwave, and I always cool the room down to an unattainable 15°C. What’s more, I don’t even see the temperature on the display dropping significantly after cooling.
    Another issue here is air circulation. Nothing is lost in nature, so since the portable air conditioner has one pipe through which it expels air, it must draw in a fresh supply of air into the room from the other side. This creates a vacuum and draws in warm air from outside (e.g. through draughts and doors), which unfortunately noticeably reduces the actual cooling efficiency. Dual-pipe air conditioners are the solution to this problem. You can also easily find online guides on how to add a second pipe yourself, but I haven’t tested this myself.

    Brief measurements
    For the tests, I used a standard plug-in energy meter and an InfiRay P2 PRO thermal imaging camera with a resolution of 256×192. The first thing I checked was how much power was drawn from the mains in different operating modes. Fan mode draws around 100 W, whilst Cooling costs us around 700–750 W, regardless of the selected setting or night mode – the differences are in the region of 20–30 W; on ‘Low’, the noise is indeed slightly lower.
    PeakTech 9035 energy meter display showing 711.7 W power draw
    A quick look at the thermal imaging, however, reveals that the unit is indeed working; the outlet temperature reaches up to 15 °C, and the exhaust pipe heats up to 40 °C or more.
    Thermal image of a portable air conditioner with readings 14.8°C, 25.1°C and 33.4°C Thermal image of a portable air conditioner and exhaust hose with temperature readings.


    What to watch out for
    A portable air conditioner (commonly known as a ‘tubular’ model) may not be very efficient, and it may be as noisy as a vacuum cleaner, but it does the job. However, on the market, under similar names (air cooler, air conditioner), you can find devices based on cooling cartridges, water, or simply fan units with fancy names. As they lack a compressor, they do not lower the room temperature at all; they merely increase the humidity, providing a temporary sensation of coolness. I believe that buying them is a waste of time.

    Summary
    The unit, albeit with some difficulty, is capable of cooling a room of around 10 m² to a comfortable temperature whilst a computer (up to 200 W) is running inside and the heat outside is reaching 35 °C. It consumes around 0.8 kWh of energy per hour (roughly the cost of just under one zloty), but we also pay the price in terms of reduced working comfort, as the noise is rather like a vacuum cleaner running. For this reason, the unit isn’t really suitable for a bedroom, unless we cool it down right up until bedtime, in which case the night-time drop in temperature will come to our rescue. Personally, I think the purchase was worth it, although if I could, I’d opt for a proper wall-mounted air-conditioning unit (split-type). A portable air conditioner is really only for people who, for example, are renting a flat.
    How do you cope with the heat? Do you use air conditioning?

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14699 posts with rating 12741, helped 656 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • Two-pipe portable AC avoids chimney draft issues

    #2 21929062
    TechEkspert
    Editor  
    Posts: 7232
    Help: 17
    Rate: 5608
    A portable air conditioner with two pipes, although less popular, may actually make more sense. Warm air is expelled outside, and the air used to cool the system is also drawn in from outside. The air in the room circulates through the cooling system. It is simply important to ensure that the air is replaced so that, for example, CO₂ levels do not rise too high.

    As for air intake in a single-pipe air-conditioning system, care must be taken not to reverse the chimney draught. This can be dangerous, for example, with gas water heaters.
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  • Shade and shutters keep flat at 24.3°C without AC

    #3 21929067
    forest1600
    Level 21  
    Posts: 626
    Help: 10
    Rate: 172
    I live on the ground floor; I have windows on both sides of the building, and the side wall is always in the shade because of the trees. in the morning, the sun shines through the windows in the kitchen and the small room for literally an hour; in the large room, the sun shines through the windows for a maximum of two hours because of the trees and another building next door, on top of that, I’ve got anti-burglary roller shutters, and right now, with it being 37 degrees outside, it’s 24.3 in the flat – I don’t need this rubbish; I had one in my old flat and it literally created a draught in the room; it was noisy and, in my opinion, not worth a thing.

  • Short duct runs and two-pipe AC work better

    #4 21929068
    gulson
    System Administrator  
    Posts: 29424
    Help: 150
    Rate: 6084
    Ducted air-conditioning systems make little sense. They expel warm air outside, but they have to draw that air from somewhere. Either from another open window, or from the stairwell – hopefully not from the flue of a gas stove ;)

    The key is to run the pipe out to the outside quickly (a short section). Another issue is where the air will be drawn from. If it’s from the basement, it might cool things down a bit.
    Two-pipe systems are better, or those with an outdoor unit and pipes. Then you can temporarily place the unit outside, e.g. on the balcony.
    I’ve noticed that campervan-style units are all the rage at the moment, such as the Midea Porta Split.
    And, generally speaking, built-in split systems are the best, but that’s a different story.
  • #5 21929072
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14699
    Help: 656
    Rate: 12741
    @forest1600 But with the computer switched on in the room? Before I had air conditioning, after half a day’s work at the computer I’d have to escape to the kitchen – it was impossible to stay in there; it was like a sauna. Now, even after a whole day, it’s still comfortable.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.

  • Portable AC keeps room comfortable with computer on

    #6 21929076
    forest1600
    Level 21  
    Posts: 626
    Help: 10
    Rate: 172
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    @forest1600 but with the computer switched on in the room? Before I had air conditioning, after half a day’s work at the computer I had to retreat to the kitchen – it was impossible to stay in there, it was a proper sauna. Now, even after a whole day, it’s still comfortable.

    Yes, the computer’s on all the time; just a standard fan running on the lowest setting, that’s all, the windows are closed all day; I only open them fully in the bedrooms and kitchen in the evening to let the air in, and the temperature always drops a bit. This morning, it was 23 in the flat when I got up at 8 am.
    How do you cope with the heat? My thoughts on using a portable air conditioner after 3 years

  • Dual-pipe portable AC avoids negative air balance

    #7 21929086
    sanfran
    Network and Internet specialist  
    Posts: 9933
    Help: 958
    Rate: 2994
    If it really isn’t possible to fit a ‘split’ air-conditioning unit in the flat, I’d try looking into a ‘dual-pipe’ system – one pipe draws in air from outside, whilst the other is for hot air.

    This is important because, in blocks of flats, a negative air balance can be compensated for via ventilation grilles, along with all the questionable qualities of that air. There’s no getting round it – you need a few cubic metres per minute to cool the condenser effectively.

    These are observations from real life. I once had a ‘single-pipe’ air-conditioning system in my flat in a block of flats. After that, I no longer needed one because I moved to a cooler part of the world.

  • Converting single-pipe portable ACs to dual-pipe units

    #8 21929127
    Dawid90u
    Level 23  
    Posts: 756
    Help: 38
    Rate: 86
    These cheap single-pipe air conditioners can be converted into dual-pipe units fairly easily. There are grilles at the back. You need to cover them up with some cardboard or design and 3D-print an adapter with a hole for the pipe.
    I did this once. It didn’t create a negative pressure effect in the flat, but the noise was still a nuisance.

    There are also portable air conditioners which can be placed not only inside the flat but also on the balcony. In that case, the set includes an adapter with a pipe that needs to be connected to the window or balcony sill. The effect is the opposite: instead of negative pressure, we end up with positive pressure in the room.

  • Insulate the exhaust pipe and cool at night

    #9 21929160
    simw
    Level 27  
    Posts: 757
    Help: 94
    Rate: 288
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    How are you coping with the heat? Do you use air conditioning?

    The pipe definitely needs to be properly insulated, as much as possible along its entire length. What’s the point if it’s 15 degrees on one side, when the pipe is 40 degrees or more? This affects the energy balance in the room. Holding a hot pipe is like opening the fridge in the hope that this will lower the temperature in the room – though, of course, the scale is somewhat different.
    As for coping with extreme heat, I cool the rooms down when it’s much cooler; during the hottest part of the day, everything is tightly sealed – mainly the windows – leaving only natural draughts.
    On top of that, I use a fan to blow air onto my workspace and where I’m spending time. That’s usually enough to get through a heatwave lasting a few days; the longer it goes on, the harder it is to cool things down at night, especially when the night-time temperature doesn’t drop below 20 degrees.
  • #10 21929173
    elektronik999
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1205
    Help: 8
    Rate: 85
    I was given one of those once. It’s no use. They had a huge amount of air to draw in. I tried adding a second air intake pipe, but the internal design didn’t allow for it. I can’t understand why they don’t make pre-insulated double pipes.

  • Two-pipe units can be placed outside the room

    #11 21929192
    jack63
    Level 43  
    Posts: 11763
    Help: 850
    Rate: 2810
    gulson wrote:
    Two-pipe systems are better, or those with the unit outside and connected by pipes. In that case, you can temporarily place the unit outside, e.g. on the balcony.

    These aren’t so much better as they’re the only ones that prevent the following from happening:
    Your teeth are chattering from the cold, your bum’s roasting, and the average room temperature… is rising.
    However, you can’t put an air conditioner like that out onto the balcony!
    You’ve got something mixed up. Those two pipes handle the inlet and outlet from the condenser (in cooling mode), which is hotter than the outside air.
    The inlet and outlet to and from the evaporator are inside the ‘box’. If you put the box outside, you can only cool the area around that box.

    Edyta:
    There are now also versions with two pipes connected to the evaporator’s inlet and outlet. This can – and in fact must – be placed outside the room.
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  • #12 21929342
    gulson
    System Administrator  
    Posts: 29424
    Help: 150
    Rate: 6084
    jack63 wrote:
    You’ve got something mixed up.

    I haven’t got it wrong; twin-pipe systems are slightly better because at least they don’t create a vacuum.

  • Portable AC works, but is noisy and compromises on cost

    #13 21929350
    kotbury
    Gantry automation specialist  
    Posts: 9565
    Help: 2096
    Rate: 3619
    It’s a bit of a mixed bag. I’ve had one of these (Yoer PAC 02) for a few years now, with a heating capacity of 3.3 kW and a cooling capacity of 4.7 kW. Once you’ve put up with a few inconveniences, it’s not too bad. Admittedly, it was bought primarily for heating (my house has three levels, with the two lower ones served by split-system units and the top floor by this Yoer), so the cooling is a bonus for me.
    It’s incredibly noisy, unless you switch it to ECO mode. Oh well. It’s a single-pipe unit, but the exhaust duct is extremely short and the pipe is fitted directly into the lower insert of the balcony door via flanges. I don’t have a problem with negative pressure because on the north side (cold, with thuja and lime trees, etc.) I leave the tilt-and-turn windows slightly ajar.
    It’s a compromise – I couldn’t fit a split-system air conditioner due to lack of space, and it’s dirt cheap (about 1,100 zł). It cools sufficiently (it’s running right now).

    As for those combined units, I’d been thinking for a while about one where the back is outside and the front sticks into the flat. Like in American films. There’s no problem with negative pressure because the rear ventilation circuit is entirely outside, whilst the front one is entirely inside the flat. The only thing is that even a tiny one (e.g. 1.5 kW) costs as much as an average split system, even from a Chinese supplier, and you have to modify the window.
  • #14 21929426
    tatanka
    Level 21  
    Posts: 579
    Help: 5
    Rate: 117
    I bought a PC for domestic hot water with a leaky tank for 500 zł.
    A computer cabinet from a scrap yard. A 120-litre barrel. 200 metres of Alupex, 30 metres of copper pipe.
    Some polystyrene and foam.
    I connected it in place of the cold water supply.

    Top view into a blue barrel with a tightly coiled white pipe and a copper coil inside
    Inside a red cabinet with refrigeration components on top and a large blue barrel in the lower section

  • Portable twin-pipe AC repurposed for closed-loop house cooling

    #15 21929470
    krzbor
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1772
    Help: 41
    Rate: 1067
    I have a portable twin-pipe monoblock air conditioner and I’ve decided to use it to cool my house. I know many people will smile :) I had a fireplace-based hot-air distribution system in the loft. I decided to use it for cooling. The hot-air outlet pipe is connected to the chimney. The air conditioner’s outlet (at the top) has been covered with the polystyrene that the unit came in – it fits the shape of the unit nicely. I cut out the top of this polystyrene insert and glued on a 12cm-thick layer of polystyrene, with a hole cut out for the pipe. This 12cm-thick polystyrene was leftover from insulating the house. I chose such a thick piece so that the pipe would sit securely. This pipe (thermally insulated spiral duct) leads to a 300 m³/h axial fan and on to three rooms. The air conditioner draws in air for cooling from the rear – I’ve fitted a wooden frame and a connection spigot to the fireplace fan. Air is drawn in from beneath the fireplace on the ground floor, goes to the fireplace fan, and then to the air conditioner’s intake. From the outlet, it is drawn in by the fan and blown into the three rooms upstairs. The circuit is therefore closed. Does this sort of thing work? I have to admit that it does! It’s not an air-conditioning system that will bring the temperature down to 20 degrees, but when it runs all day (non-stop), it can be cooler upstairs than on the ground floor. It’s warm, but you can still go about your business as normal. When the air conditioning is running, it gets very hot in the loft. Unfortunately, this worsens the air conditioner’s performance, as the air from the second circuit is drawn in from the loft (the exhaust, as I mentioned, goes into the chimney). Another advantage of this type of air conditioning is that there’s no condensation. Interestingly, I looked for a ready-to-use unit – that is, a unit with four pipes (two for the cooling circuit and two for the secondary circuit without condensate drainage). I couldn’t find anything like that. I don’t know the actual air flow rate – that fan is certainly restricted by the whole system, but the air being blown out is around 11–12 degrees.

  • OSB door-frame mount turns single-hose AC into positive pressure

    #16 21929471
    Kiermasz
    Level 23  
    Posts: 588
    Help: 52
    Rate: 194
    I’ve got a simple solution for these single-pipe air conditioners.
    An OSB board cut to fit the front door frame, with a hole cut out in the OSB board and fitted with a foam seal to accommodate half the air conditioner. It’s all set up so that the back of the unit sticks out into the street, whilst the front blows air into the house :)

    The result? It might look a bit of a mess and block the way, but instead of negative pressure, I’m getting positive pressure.
    As for the noise, it’s not quite so unbearable when compared to the heat at nearly 40°C.
    And a 1.8 kW unit like this is capable of cooling my entire part of the house satisfactorily if it runs for a while, and combined with PV… Well, it’s practically a perpetual motion machine :)

    The downside? It dries the air out terribly. So it’s a good idea to produce a bit of water vapour to avoid harming your sinuses, or to have lots of large plants in the house :)

    We only get heatwaves like this for a few days a year, so I’m not likely to go for any fancy solutions to this problem. Something merely satisfactory will do for me.
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  • Portable units need separate intake and exhaust ducts

    #17 21929485
    austin007
    Level 17  
    Posts: 766
    Help: 6
    Rate: 276
    If you’re set on a portable unit, it should only have a separate duct for air intake and a separate one for exhaust. However, there’s the issue of ensuring an airtight seal between the room and the outside. Ideally, you’d draw air in from the coldest side. And the unit itself generates heat. I had one a long time ago, but I sold it. I’ve come across these DIY micro-split systems. But generally speaking, in my opinion, it’s a dead end.
  • #18 21929517
    kkknc
    Level 43  
    Posts: 23709
    Help: 1914
    Rate: 6688
    Let me put it this way: lots of noise, little effect. The unit also gets hot, as does the exhaust pipe; you need to insulate it properly, otherwise it’s not very effective. As for the insulation, it’s a bit better. It’s much better and cheaper to fit a fan – less noise. And it uses less energy too.
  • #19 21929671
    Tomek_GZ
    Level 21  
    Posts: 823
    Help: 46
    Rate: 65
    I’d been looking for something like this, but having read the article and the comments, I know I did the right thing by not buying it. Thank you :)

  • Portable split-system setup with condensate return

    #20 21929756
    puchalak
    Level 19  
    Posts: 1344
    Help: 11
    Rate: 223
    Many years ago, I made that mistake and bought a piece of rubbish like that. The level of noise-induced fatigue was worse than that caused by the heat.
    Given that heatwaves may become more frequent, it’s worth getting yourself a portable air conditioner that can be stowed away in the cellar at the end of the season and doesn’t require any building modifications. Get the smallest split-system unit you can find, fit 2–3-metre-long rubber pressure hoses, and attach tall rubber bumpers to the back of the outdoor unit so they rest against the façade and ensure air circulation, as well as two loops of rope for hanging (there’s usually a radiator under the window) attached to the unit’s feet, and a simple stand for the indoor unit. If you have a balcony or a wide, secure window sill, things are even simpler, as rubber feet screwed onto the factory-fitted bottom profiles will suffice. It’s important to secure the hoses properly to both units. The diameter of the thicker liquid hose is about 2–2.5 cm, so the window will only need to be tilted slightly. If you have longer hoses, you can route them through the top of a standard tilt-and-turn window. That leaves the issue of condensate – either a collection tray or a clever solution that pumps the condensed water back onto the evaporator fins to prevent the air from drying out. You could also use cotton strings, but that’s not a very hygienic solution. The whole setup should weigh under 35 kg – 10 kg for the indoor unit and 25 kg for the outdoor unit – so you can fit it and take it apart on your own in a matter of minutes. This is a better and cheaper alternative to motorhome air conditioning units. Better because it’s more powerful and quieter (in campervans, the compressor is often inside) – cheaper because, if you find a second-hand kit to convert it, the whole thing, including the hoses, is likely to cost less than 1klpn.

  • 3 mm polycarbonate window frame for portable AC

    #21 21929762
    zenon003
    Level 6  
    Posts: 468
    Rate: 79
    For my air conditioning, I made a frame out of 3mm-thick polycarbonate and fitted it with suitable pipe fittings. I also painted the polycarbonate white. Against the white façade, it isn’t particularly conspicuous and looks quite neat. It doesn’t interfere at all with closing the window. I unclip the pipes in a few seconds and close the window. I can remove the frame itself just like a normal fly screen. It’s been in use for three seasons now and works really well. The negative pressure itself also has a second advantage. I only have one window, so it’s difficult to ventilate the room. There have been times when I’ve switched on the air conditioning for a few minutes, even when it wasn’t particularly hot, and removed the cool-air tube. A fairly strong stream of air then flows into the room.

    Two flexible silver AC hoses connected to a window insert with round duct fittings.

    Portable air conditioner by an open window with a white frame and a connected silver exhaust hose
  • #22 21929802
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7024
    Help: 624
    Rate: 2116
    Put on a wet cotton T-shirt and physics will do the rest.
  • #23 21929846
    tesla97
    Level 20  
    Posts: 512
    Help: 22
    Rate: 156
    >>21929762

    I’m always curious about how to get rid of the moisture between the panes afterwards. Does this PC stay there permanently, and does it get a bit cold in winter due to the lack of insulation provided by the window’s air gap?
  • #24 21929849
    zenon003
    Level 6  
    Posts: 468
    Rate: 79
    >>21929846 The top opening is sealed with a plug, whilst the bottom one remains open at all times.
  • #25 21929866
    SP5IT
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 11602
    Help: 1298
    Rate: 1687
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

    How do you cope with the heat? Do you use air conditioning?

    I’ve had three split-system air conditioners fitted, each rated at 3.5 kW. It’s 22–23 degrees in the flat. It’s currently 38 outside.
    M

  • Portable monoblock is noisy and limited to 30 m²

    #26 21929987
    PZ IX
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3349
    Help: 191
    Rate: 361
    I’ve got an Electrolux monoblock unit of about 1,500 watts and it’s a bit of a mixed bag – it works fine during the day, but at night the noise is, unfortunately, a bit too loud to sleep through, unless it doesn’t bother you. It copes reasonably well with 30 m², but anything larger is a bit of a challenge for it, even with the fan assistance.
    I’m thinking of giving a portable unit another go and buying one – but this time something like a Porta Split – or just giving up and going straight for a proper fixed split-system air conditioner and that’s that.

    This year’s heatwave has been quite a surprise in terms of its intensity. Interestingly, it’s worse in the flat today than it was yesterday when it was 37–39 degrees, as if the walls were releasing the heat with a delay or something.

  • Heat pump cooling via underfloor heating works well

    #27 21929998
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5831
    Help: 224
    Rate: 1465
    The Kaisai 12kW heat pump cools my 200m² house via underfloor heating; downstairs it’s 22–23°C and in the loft 25–26°C. It was supplying water at 10°C to the underfloor heating, but it was too cold, in the morning it was 21.5°C in the living room :) and I had to raise the temperature to 13°C yesterday; at that point it was delivering around 4 kW of cooling capacity, today 3 kW. The floor is cool but not damp; the temperature on the radiators is 18–19°C and on the tiles 16–17°C.
    The ladder radiators in the bathrooms are condensing; I had to ‘clear’ them of towels. I’ve been using the heat pump for heating and cooling for a second season now; the PW monoblock heat pump runs non-stop – I’ve only added a cooling coil.
    The best thing is that there’s no noise at all, and no cold air blowing down my neck.
    Apart from that, I have a heat recovery unit which ventilates my house from 9 am to 6 pm, though it is a bit noisy.
    So I’m coping with this heatwave with ease :) It’s worse going out for a walk; I usually go out just before 8 pm, but that takes a lot of willpower. Today I went out earlier because clouds are gathering and it looks like rain.
  • #28 21930047
    E8600
    Level 41  
    Posts: 8954
    Help: 529
    Rate: 2515
    For hot weather, I recommend a tried-and-tested method from the AGH halls of residence: water cooling. :D

    Inflatable hot tub with bubbling water set inside a small room with a bed and window.

  • Extreme heat causing router crashes and 58°C workshop temperatures

    #29 21930241
    ArturAVS
    Moderator  
    Posts: 26317
    Help: 2300
    Rate: 7805




    That made me laugh... This morning (5.00) it was 29 degrees C in the house (windows left open overnight). The animals are just lying around drinking water (still water from the fridge). In the workshop, it was 58 degrees yesterday afternoon! The home router has already crashed a few times because of the heat. But the old one in the workshop is working fine...
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