PNW-57 night vision device. Possibility of making new electronics.

Hello, is it possible to make new electronics for this night vision device ...

From what I remember, there is only a voltage converter there. I think the lamp needs 11kV. If I'm wrong, correct me ...

Exactly, only an inverter ...
Is it possible to regulate the lighting of the lamps, because one shines a little more and it is burdensome ... can it be regulated by reducing or increasing the voltage?

Could someone write me some wisdom about the night vision device?
I would be grateful for the voltage converter diagram ... the general one is cruelly large and heavy ...

Hello, I am sorry for digging up old rubbish, but night vision devices have become quite cheaper and more accessible and the topic is still there.

I bought one piece and in combination with the high-power ir diode it works great, but this huge, heavy, over 40-year-old converter ...

Under the link there is a scan of the manual with a diagram and the principle of operation of the inverter.

From what I understand, the night vision device needs 14-19kV DC to work.
Recently, I saw this model with a homemade 2-stick converter on the Allegro.

Well, how can someone translate it into modern solutions?

The whole set is very similar to the currently used PNL-2AD passive night vision device

I refresh the topic. Will there be any benefactor who can advise you on how to make such an inverter. And he will do it for some equivalent ?

Hello,
unfortunately, without the help of my colleagues from the forum, but I managed to build a working converter, and it's actually ridiculously cheap.

We used a plasma ball on a usb (PLN 20 allegro) to which we added the simplest converter capacitor - diode (smd capacitors on 3KV - allego, diodes 3KV - allegro)

it is sold by tvsat.com.pl

There is no way to measure it, so I won't tell you what voltage we got but our reasoning was this:

5v usb -> 5KV plasma ball
4 multiplier stages = 20KV
going down to 3V at the input will give the output something close to the operating range of the night vision device, which is quite wide.

Good luck !

krakowmichal wrote:

Hello,
unfortunately, without the help of my colleagues from the forum, but I managed to build a working converter and it's actually ridiculously cheap.

We used a plasma ball on a usb (PLN 20 allegro) to which we added the simplest converter capacitor - diode (smd capacitors on 3KV - allego, diodes 3KV - allegro)

it is sold by tvsat.com.pl

There is no way to measure it, so I won't tell you what voltage we got but our reasoning was this:

5v usb -> 5KV plasma ball
4 multiplier stages = 20KV
going down to 3V at the input will give the output something close to the operating range of the night vision device, which is quite wide.

Good luck !

Can you upload photos of your inverter? Maybe some quick diagram?

The converter itself is exactly transferred from the plasma ball feed board and the HV output to the ball is the input to the multiplier .

The circuit is powered by 3V with 2xAA and everything sounds beautiful and rumbles. Sometimes even copies.

The plate design must be spaced apart for the duplicator! The first one went to the basket because sparks were jumping between the elements.

krakowmichal wrote:

The converter itself is exactly transferred from the plasma ball feed board and the HV output to the ball is the input to the multiplier .

The circuit is powered by 3V with 2xAA and everything sounds beautiful and rumbles. Sometimes even copies.

With the duplicator, the plate design must be spaced! The first one went to the basket because sparks were jumping between the elements.

In my PNW-2 a converter has died. Trafo OK, the vibrator is lying. I am inclined to two solutions:
- first - your patent (plasma lamp + duplicator)
- second - NE555 as driver + original trafko + diode

Until the first one, I lack the value of the elements, if you can - give me a lift, I will be grateful.
In days I will try 555 - I will write what results I get I have no idea what frequency and filling to apply - I will improvise

The elements used in the duplicator are:
Cond. 1808 27pF 5% 3KV SL [KCSP027.00 / 1M]
Diode 0.2A 5000V DO-15 R5000

Still available on the Allegro in the "sm-elektronik_pl" user store.

Generator and trafo, as I wrote before, taken from a USB plasma ball.
The system is powered by 3V instead of 5V.

I took some photos for those interested.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOvHikPh...g?hl=pl&key=NG9aLW9kYnI2VY01rdaRmUhkaU2Y01rda

In the light well I use an IR power diode controlled by attiny13 and 3 current stabilizers.

I can't really get it right. It gets very hot, the power of the light seems quite weak and the source is too far over the visible part. I set the duty cycle to 270 uS for a 300uS period. Only then the parameters of the illuminator allow for effective illumination in complete darkness. Heats up cruelly: /.

Hello, sorry for digging up the conversation, but I couldn't help it.
I recently bought this night vision device and it barely works. It seems to me that the converter is burnt / damaged. I was able to turn it on using the battery from the drill (18v).

I would like to modernize this night vision device and use it for airsoft night battles, the problem is that I need someone to help me make new converters with new components.

I am so sorry for my Poland, but I live in the USA.

You can use something like the attachment. You can wind the transformer yourself, but it can be a day of work.

Hello, I am new and I am looking for someone who could make a night vision converter for me to replace the original one with a much smaller one,
Please help

@ dothweed2142 / @ VoO-DoO Miniature converters are available to power CCFL lamps to illuminate LCD matrices. Such a converter has an output of approx. 3-4 kV AC, with a frequency of approx. 60 kHz. It is enough to add a three-stage duplicator. The whole, with proper assembly, takes up the space of a matchbox. I did it myself once, but the power supply has to be filled with paraffin due to the high voltages.
https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/32418968693.html

Ok, and would you do?

Hello, I recently found such a photo on one of the auctions on Allegro. Could someone confirm if such a system will work and will not burn my night vision device?

@ Joker2038 Do we have any data on this? How can you know how it is built and how it works?

@K-rzysztof Kamienski It is a Chinese high voltage generator. You can find them for a few bucks on aliexpress / ebay and td. According to the description, it is to be 400 kV, while the sparks jump a maximum of 20 mm when powered from the 3.7 V line, which suggests that the voltage is much lower. Someone managed to recreate the layout diagram, but not whether it is correct. I was hoping that someone had contact with such a module and was able to determine whether it is suitable for powering the night vision device.

You have to measure it, not "guess" . The night vision lamp has a power supply, as far as I remember, about 9kV. And there is one problem here ... such a lamp (image intensifier) has an electron lens inside. The focal length of this lens is strictly dependent on the applied voltage, so you probably won't destroy the lamp, but you may have a blurry, blurred image.

If the voltage is too high, you can damage the transducer (damage to the photocathode or puncture of the lamp glass).

Good evening,

My name is Niclas. I'm from Germany. Unfortunately, I personally do not speak Polish - that's why I try to be understood by the translator.

I bought the NS-71 some time ago. So far, everything has worked out. I restored the entire unit. Old paint, rust and new paint removed on it. I've also reworked the lenses. I built a thick lipo-battery into the power supply.
Countless hours ... we figured it out and suddenly ... Is High voltage blocking the mind ... Otherwise you'll just hear ... monotonous clattering, suddenly there was always a short interval with a loud bang. So I turned it on, checked it out.
and had to create an almost 1.5 cm arc between two Find points in the wiring. Every 2-3 seconds it could be seen through transparent plastic. My original idea for parts may be able to fix faded parts quickly - all parts are encased in some kind of transparent silicone.


My idea was now to build a new high-voltage block. On the internet, like here, you can find some drawings and plans. I am only afraid that dangerous voltages will be discharged there, which may be dangerous for me.
How exactly did you do it? And is it possible to write a step-by-step guide for a layman like me?

My idea was a circuit like this: Ne555-Timer Stun Gun with 20kV

Does something like this work? How would you calculate the capacitors for a multiplier?
Does anyone know the electricity consumed by these two pipes?


It would be a pity if the device stopped working just because of this = (
You are my only hope in this regard.

Hope my message is a bit understandable.

In my experience, a simple self-drilling converter on one transistor with a voltage multiplier is enough. I probably have the same type of night vision device (such "binoculars" with an additional illuminator. In my opinion, the sensitivity of the transducers is not too high. Tomorrow I will post a diagram.

It would be very nice. Personally, I am too insecure and don't know enough about such things to develop my own wiring diagrams. I am also concerned about possible damage from high voltage.

Thanks for the help!



One more question. Is there any schematic of the MTZW-1-6 high voltage block from my NS-71? Unfortunately I can't find anything = (
But apparently the same circuit was not used as in the PWN-57's. The comparison with the circuit did not help. Other parts were partly used.
I also tried to reverse engineer the circuit - to no avail.

NiclasLindner - is this arch created in an accessible or tightly closed place? In the first case, dust may be the cause - it must be carefully removed. I had such a problem with the TV - the high-voltage circuit attracted dust from the surroundings, if it accumulated a little, it made an arc.

A spark strikes between the capacitor and the diode. But all parts are silicone molded as mentioned before. So dust can't be the cause.

I also made a movie.
[movie: 4209e0e76d] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/12_1596974893.mp4 [/ movie: 4209e0e76d]

The best and easiest thing would be to find the damage and repair it. I'm just not sure what caused the problem and how to fix it.

One could still check (but it might not be easy): what voltage does it produce - suitable for powering a night vision device, or too high? The discharge can be caused by overvoltage or damage to the insulation. In the first case, the system may need to be supplied with a lower voltage, and then the generated voltage will be lower; in the second one, the insulation needs to be replaced - first, wait for the high voltage to disappear, then remove the silicone, thoroughly clean the place where the discharge was, and pour a new insulator. Of course, assuming that it is a relatively soft silicone that can be removed without damaging what's underneath (because like epoxy, it's worse). I do not know what the length of this spark is - good insulation materials need tens of kV for a 1mm puncture, so maybe it is only shielded and there is air inside?