Adapter to lead out a pipe from a portable air conditioner - DIY 3D printing

p.kaczmarek2 17 Jun 2024 00:11 14 2247 Cool? (+1)

📢 Listen (AI):

The hot weather is coming, so you need to run the air conditioning - all the more so when there is a computer constantly running in the workshop stubbornly heating up the room. The situation gets complicated, however, when you don't have permission to install a full-fledged air conditioner and have to limit yourself to a portable version. In my case, I managed with difficulty to get permission for just a single pass-through hole for ejecting warm air, so I have nothing to complain about anyway, and the only problem left was the installation of the ejection pipe, or more precisely.... the lack of its adapter.
Here this problem I will try to solve, and immediately, as the warm days start practically tomorrow.

First a few words about my situation - I have a 15cm ejection hole made, but the air conditioner does not come with a matching adapter:

On the other side there is a flexible hose from the air conditioner, but it doesn't even fit in this hole (it's too big in diameter, it won't go in).
Something has to be thought of, this is where 3D printing comes to the rescue.

I started by fitting the component going into my ejection tube:

A test printout confirmed that I had the dimensions correct:

I then selected a matching threaded component from Thingiverse:

Thread source:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4519730
I connected the pieces properly, making sure I centred both accurately:

I decided to make the print without the supports:

I sped up the print time by changing the feed rate already during the print - I hit 160% FR.
During printing on my Ender 3 PRO:

The print took only about 16 hours in the end, which is confirmed by calculations (24/1.6 = 15...)
Does it fit?

Of course it does, after all I did a test print of both sides beforehand:

The thread is also:

Final fitting:

Everything fits and works perfectly.

All in all, the game cost me about 5 minutes of time in Blender and about £15 in filament (or probably even less, as I remember fiddling with the settings when printing). The whole thing came out perfectly from PLA filament, with no support, my Ender 3 PRO handled it brilliantly. In addition, I managed to solve the problem basically in one day (I put the print in the morning and today the air conditioning is already test-blowing).

Do you also already run the air conditioning or do you deal with the heat in the studio in a different way? Feel free to discuss.

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p.kaczmarek2 wrote 13929 posts with rating 11733 , helped 630 times. Been with us since 2014 year.

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andrzejlisek 17 Jun 2024 06:45

Following the principle "prevention is better than cure", I have found a cheap but very effective way that I have been using successfully for several years: You need an HDF board and a so-called heater... [Read more]

viayner 17 Jun 2024 06:56

Hello, i use a very simple method: - at my place there are always small hinged windows in each room, about 30cm wide, they are also easily removable and fitted with a mosquito net. - after lifting the... [Read more]

szeryf3 17 Jun 2024 15:44

You must have an interesting place to work since you had trouble making a vent. And have you tried with fitting a life wrap/rescue blanket to the windows? [Read more]

TechEkspert 17 Jun 2024 17:55

The problem with these portable air conditioners is that they draw in air from the room for cooling and push the heated air outwards through this pipe, this causes: 1) this pipe acts like a radiator... [Read more]

szeryf3 17 Jun 2024 19:57

So are we still pulling in warm air? And is it not possible to make a closed system? [Read more]

TechEkspert 17 Jun 2024 22:03

There are portable air conditioners that have two connections, drawing in outside air, cooling the refrigerant and expelling the warm air. The air in the room, on the other hand, circulates in a cooling... [Read more]

andrzejlisek 17 Jun 2024 22:53

This disadvantage can be seen as an advantage. Such an air conditioner provides a constant exchange of fresh air. I see a new FRAL model has come on the market with this capability, at least looking... [Read more]

VIGOR_PICTURES 18 Jun 2024 09:12

In a flat in a block of flats in a large slab building, I successfully use external films on the windows. Combined with the belief of the flat at night (the location of the flat across a long block of... [Read more]

p.kaczmarek2 18 Jun 2024 10:39

I got permission for a modest air extractor, no longer for the installation of a normal air conditioner on the outside, and the room is also a bit lacking in space I have seen these solutions but... [Read more]

jarekgol 19 Jun 2024 12:19

I also have such an air-conditioner, not yet fired up this season, so I won't post photos, but I made myself an insert in the window out of plywood to allow the ejection hose to be fitted, and it is *tight*... [Read more]

TechEkspert 20 Jun 2024 09:40

Yes, only we cannot regulate the rate of exchange of this air in such a configuration. Portable air conditioners also have the disadvantage of making noise, so where possible it is worth using an outdoor... [Read more]

popek9 20 Jun 2024 14:35

Hey. I've just recently found a very similar air conditioner to the one I have at work on allegro, only mine is with one pipe and no WiFi. However, I am very puzzled by the description the seller... [Read more]

jarekgol 20 Jun 2024 18:49

But at the same time, the heat given off has to pump outside, so I wouldn't look for big differences here. In addition, if there is a block of wood there to be sweetened that is 70 degrees (I'm shooting),... [Read more]

pch 21 Jun 2024 12:45

I converted such an air conditioner for one season after moving to another part of the building. A disaster. The noise, the negative pressure in the room was such that the door could not be opened and... [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: Print a PLA adapter to mate a 150 mm wall vent to an oversized portable‑AC hose; one maker finished a 16‑hour, 160% FR job for ~£15—"Everything fits and works perfectly." [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps renters and DIYers quickly vent single‑hose portable ACs without drilling new holes, using 3D printing or low‑cost window inserts.

Quick Facts

- Vent opening used: 150 mm; hose didn’t fit, so a custom adapter solved it. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]
- Print metrics: ~16 h total at 160% feed rate on Ender 3 Pro, no supports. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]
- Cost to prototype: Approx. £15 of filament for a working adapter. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]
- PLA warning: Softening begins around ~60 °C; monitor parts near exhaust air. [Elektroda, VIGOR_PICTURES, post #21123200]
- Single‑hose caveat: Hose radiates heat; shorten or insulate, and expect back‑fill of warm outside air. [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #21122527]

How do I 3D‑print an adapter for a 150 mm wall vent?

Model a male plug for the 150 mm duct, add a centered threaded coupler for the hose, and print without supports. Test both sides first, then run the final print. One user reported a perfect fit and thread engagement on a single‑day build. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]

Quick 3‑step: what’s the build sequence?

Measure the vent, model a snug insert, and test‑print fit pieces.
Add a compatible threaded hose coupler; align both axes precisely.
Print the full adapter (no supports), then assemble and check seal. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]

Which filament is safe near the exhaust—PLA, PETG, or ABS?

PLA can soften near 60 °C, so watch for warping and cracks around the outlet. If you see softening, reprint in a higher‑temp material or move the PLA farther from the hot stream. "PLA starts to get soft around 60 degrees." [Elektroda, VIGOR_PICTURES, post #21123200]

Why does my single‑hose portable AC pull in hot air from outside?

It uses room air to cool the condenser, then expels that air outdoors. This creates negative pressure that draws warm air back in through leaks. Insulate or shorten the hose to cut losses. [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #21122527]

Can I make a closed two‑hose system for better performance?

Yes. Some portable units have two ports: they draw outdoor air across the hot side and exhaust it back out, while indoor air recirculates for cooling. "There are portable air conditioners that have two connections." [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #21122933]

Is it true that putting the AC outside boosts efficiency?

Users debate this. Outdoor placement can cut indoor noise, but hotter ambient air can worsen heat rejection. One user would move it outside mainly for noise and add shading. [Elektroda, jarekgol, post #21126264]

Does a single‑hose unit at least improve fresh‑air exchange?

Yes. Some see the constant makeup air as a benefit, since expelled indoor air gets replaced by fresher outside air during operation. [Elektroda, andrzejlisek, post #21122983]

Any low‑cost way to reduce solar heat gain before using AC?

Make HDF window panels lined with reflective heater screen (foil on foam). Clip them outside without drilling. Tests showed visibly cooler sashes on thermal imaging. Downsides: dark rooms, lights on all day. [Elektroda, andrzejlisek, post #21121738]

What’s a fast, no‑drill window insert for the exhaust hose?

Use the narrow hinged window: mount a 30×30 cm thin board with a hose hole, then block the rest with a cardboard panel under the mosquito net. Installs in ~30 minutes. [Elektroda, viayner, post #21121739]

How noisy are portable ACs compared with split systems?

Portable units are audibly louder because the compressor and fans sit indoors. Where allowed, an outdoor unit is preferable for noise reduction. [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #21125691]

Real‑world pitfall: why did my doors get hard to open?

Strong exhaust flow from single‑hose units can create notable negative pressure. One user called the experience "a disaster," with doors difficult to open. [Elektroda, pch, post #21127121]

How much heat does each person add when cooling a room?

Plan for about 100 W of sensible heat per person. Hosts switch on a Fral portable when more guests arrive due to added load. [Elektroda, andrzejlisek, post #21121738]

What is a plenum adapter in this context?

It’s an add‑on that enables two‑hose operation by separating intake and exhaust air paths. Sellers claim efficiency gains when used this way. [Elektroda, popek9, post #21126005]

Tips for modeling threads and alignment in the adapter?

Select a proven hose thread model, center both parts accurately, and verify with small test prints. The final piece then threads cleanly and seals well. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21121677]

Will a plywood window insert survive rain?

A tight plywood insert can stay in during rain. In heavy downpours, add an absorbent rag at the sill as backup. [Elektroda, jarekgol, post #21124705]

Do rescue blankets on windows help, or are they frustrating?

Some users find reflective foils on windows awkward in practice and opt for other shading methods or permanent panels. Results vary by window and workflow. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21123319]