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Piezo self-levelling sensor for 3D printers - instead of BL-Touch

yego666  29 1839 Cool? (+7)
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TL;DR

  • A piezoelectric self-levelling sensor for 3D printers replaces BLTouch-style probes and aims to improve first-layer calibration on a CoreXY printer running Klipper and Octoprint.
  • The probe mounts with a single screw and one sensitivity potentiometer, and Klipper setup only requires a few entries in printer.cfg.
  • The article cites BLTouch-type probes with 15 to 25 microns repeatability, while piezo elements can be replaced in five minutes for two zloty.
  • In tests, the sensor handled initialization, G28, repeatability checks and G29, giving better table-geometry measurements and first layers.
  • The main limitation is that both the nozzle and bed must stay perfectly clean so filament residue does not distort the measurement.
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Hello to all 3D printing enthusiasts.


Black-and-white icon of a 3D printer nozzle over a bed with a vibration waveform


Recently, 3D printers have become more widespread, which is very positive given their advantages.
However, nothing comes without pain.

Have you had problems with insufficient adhesion of the first print layer, resulting in its deformation?
Have you had problems with the nozzle-to-table distance compensation when printing the first layer?
Do you get tired of having to carry out the "paper test" over and over again with minimal changes to the head geometry?
Do you get tired of having to determine the distance of the level probe from the nozzle tip after each replacement or repositioning of a clogged nozzle?
Aren't you tired of the constant "knocking" of the level probe's extendable and retractable pin?
Haven't you noticed that almost all samplers have a repeatability of 15 to 25 microns, not to mention thermal drift?
Have you not had to replace a sampler due to loss of precision caused by mechanical wear or damage?

If you answer yes to any of the above questions, then you will probably be interested in a sensor solution,
that relieves you of all these problems.

You have probably already seen many 'mods' of 3D printers by their owners.
Most often, the mechanics, control electronics or operating system are modified, but rarely does the subject of modifying the level sampler come up.
There are many different samplers on the market, but BLTouch samplers or close clones of these dominate.
Inductive, capacitive and mechanical sensors are also available.
A separate group of samplers are piezoelectric samplers,
however, in all the solutions I am familiar with, far-reaching modifications to the head are required to install such a sampler.
This is obviously cumbersome and sometimes requires considerable skill in "handiwork",
hence the low popularity of such solutions, which is a pity, since a properly installed piezo sampler frees the user from the pains indicated in the questions at the beginning of the post.
Of course, apart from the advantages, piezo samplers also have disadvantages. One of them is the need to keep both the nozzle and the table perfectly clean,
so that filament residues do not distort the measurement of the table's vertical geometry.
However, this is not really a disadvantage, as in order to achieve a 'perfect' first layer, we should take care of the accuracy of the measurement,
so that the compensation works accurately, resulting in the print we want.
As some users of 3D printers treat them a little lightly, it is not surprising that there is reluctance to use piezo sensor samplers.
Apart from the disadvantages, piezo samplers have one big advantage.
We are always almost 100 per cent sure of the distance between the nozzle tip and the table, and this translates directly into the quality of the first layer.
The accuracy and repeatability of the measurement is an order of magnitude better than with other types of samplers, whether mechanical or inductive/capacitive.
In addition, piezo samplers do not wear out and do not lose precision even after ten years of operation, and even if the piezo element itself were to break down,
its replacement is a matter of five minutes and costs two zloty.

In order not to bore readers with listing the advantages and disadvantages of each type of sampler, I have included below short videos showing my piezo sampler in action.
I am using a very average CoreXY type printer under Klipper and Octoprint.
Despite the 'lousiness' of the equipment, thanks to the piezo sampler, I get surprisingly good measurements of the table geometry and, consequently, better first layers of my "works".
As I mentioned, the available piezo samplers require quite a bit of dexterity for installation, which is in contrast to my solution,
which only requires the tightening of a single screw securing the piezo sensor.
There are no other requirements for mechanical installation, so anyone who can handle a screwdriver can undertake such an installation.
The issue of configuration under Klipper is also trivial and comes down to making a few entries in the printer.cfg file.
The sampler has a single potentiometer for adjusting the sensitivity depending on the 'noisiness' of our printer.

And here are some short videos showing how the sampler works:
1. Initialisation.




2. G28.




3. Repeatability test.


Repeatability test

4. What you see on the terminal during the test.




5. G29.




6. What can be seen at the terminal during G29.




And that's all the elements of the presentation.
I dare not write a summary, as everyone can draw their own conclusions from the above material.

If any esteemed colleagues would be interested in learning more about the Sampler, I invite you to contact me on PW.
I am posting this topic with the knowledge and permission of Gulson, for which I am very grateful.

About Author
yego666 wrote 2175 posts with rating 564 , helped 239 times. Been with us since 2004 year.

Comments

chemik_16 22 Feb 2026 20:16

I have 3 3d printers and never understood the levelling issue and the point of all these sensors. The last levelling I did was probably about 2 years ago, until now it's ok. [Read more]

jarewa 22 Feb 2026 21:27

But they also have a huge disadvantage, try testing yourself on PEI or similar boards. These sensors have been known and tried for over 6 years for sure but have not caught on [Read more]

yego666 22 Feb 2026 21:51

It's good that you mentioned this, as I was about to write it myself but somehow it slipped my mind. Thanks. Of course these samplers are not without their faults. It is with them as with tyres. Winter... [Read more]

efi222 22 Feb 2026 22:07

Well unfortunately with budget printers the table drifts due to temperature. Try to print a larger part with a thickness of 0.2mm (one layer) . It happens to me quite often to print something like this... [Read more]

yego666 22 Feb 2026 22:21

Full agreement. The materials used in budget equipment are unfortunately not of the highest quality, hence the thermal deformation. My glass just holds the shape scanned cold, but many times when taking... [Read more]

jarewa 22 Feb 2026 23:26

It's just that nowadays hard tables are becoming a thing of the past, I can't imagine printing on "glass" any more, magnetic pads of all sorts trump everything else, the convenience the pleasure of tearing... [Read more]

chemik_16 23 Feb 2026 08:29

I have several glasses and I detach them with the print ;) I've never had the need to do such flat prints, and if I did it didn't matter if they were 0.05 or 0.2 realistically [Read more]

efi222 23 Feb 2026 08:45

I may have "backwards" regarding what is on the market. Are there pads that will give me glass smoothness comparable to a glass table? Mirror print on one side. [Read more]

jarewa 23 Feb 2026 09:37

They come in a variety of designs or even with a pattern There are no perfect even table surfaces , therefore a map is needed to correct the curvature of the table, I do not believe that you print... [Read more]

kombo 23 Feb 2026 20:50

The problem with glass is that sometimes when PETG is printed it clings to the table so strongly that pieces of glass break off and the table top has to be thrown away. A good quality inductive sensor... [Read more]

efi222 23 Feb 2026 21:21

I don't know how it is with PETG, but with PLA it is enough to put the glass with the print in the freezer for a few minutes. [Read more]

yego666 26 Feb 2026 00:33

It is true that magnetic pads dominate in new equipment, but in "better" i.e. non-budget printers glass still dominates. There, it is the quality and not the ease of peeling that counts :) But even... [Read more]

Fimek 27 Feb 2026 10:45

Howdy, In my opinion, the positioning method does not (fundamentally) matter if the table testing takes place physically next to the nozzle and not at the nozzle. And the problem is if the sensor has... [Read more]

yego666 27 Feb 2026 11:09

And that is exactly what the Piezo sensor I have presented here is. It measures exactly at the point of contact between the nozzle tip and the table . Obviously, tables made of glass, garolith or... [Read more]

Fimek 27 Feb 2026 11:17

In that case I apologise, I missed this and it's very important, indeed most important :) I thought that the sensor itself sampled the piezo (contact) and that instead of the methods (that I cited)... [Read more]

yego666 27 Feb 2026 11:28

Actually, I did not write this explicitely, which you have just made me aware of :) I hope my post above explains exactly how the sensor works. The results of the measurements in that post speak... [Read more]

ms22908 27 Feb 2026 13:48

I was very interested to see your article on the piezo sensor as I am always on the lookout for improvements to the technology of FFF 3D printers. I have used piezo sensors as my preferred method for more... [Read more]

yego666 27 Feb 2026 14:18

Very cool video footage, but more interesting is the solution you mentioned at the beginning. Why don't you show it on the Forum? Did you construct it yourself, because 10 years ago FDM was just starting... [Read more]

ms22908 27 Feb 2026 17:08

My first entry on the RepRap forum was on https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,635075, and this work was based on work done in 2015 by Njål Brekk,e which is shown on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn9X-WGBuvQ... [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: Piezo self‑levelling can improve first‑layer accuracy by ~10× compared with 15–25 µm repeatability probes; “We are always almost 100% sure of the distance between the nozzle tip and the table.” [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Why it matters: Better first layers, fewer re-levels, and quieter probing for Klipper/OctoPrint users who want reliable Z calibration without BLTouch hassles.

Quick Facts

What is a piezo self‑levelling sensor for 3D printers?

It is a Z‑probe that detects the nozzle’s contact with the bed using a piezoelectric element. The impact generates a voltage that signals touch. This avoids offset drift from separate probes and directly references the nozzle tip. It aims for higher repeatability and stable first layers when correctly installed and tuned. The design discussed mounts with one screw and uses a single sensitivity potentiometer, simplifying adoption versus BLTouch‑style pin probes. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Why choose piezo instead of BLTouch, inductive, or capacitive sensors?

Piezo measures the nozzle‑to‑bed contact directly, reducing offset errors and thermal drift. The author reports an order‑of‑magnitude better repeatability than typical 15–25 µm probes and no mechanical wear. It avoids the audible pin clicking of BLTouch. Quote: “We are always almost 100 per cent sure of the distance between the nozzle tip and the table.” If you want cleaner first layers and fewer recalibrations, piezo fits well. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Will a piezo sensor work on PEI spring‑steel or similar textured sheets?

Expect issues. Users report that piezo triggers can be unreliable on PEI or similar plates. The surface and compliance can damp the impact “voice,” reducing detection. If you run flexible or coated spring steel, validate with repeatability tests before relying on it for mesh generation. Consider switching to a harder, more rigid surface for probing if misses occur. This limitation has been observed over several years of attempts. [Elektroda, jarewa, post #21846160]

Which beds pair well with piezo—glass, textured, or soft surfaces?

Use hard plates that transmit a clear tap. Glass works well on both smooth and fine‑texture sides in the shared build. Soft beds tend to damp the signal and can cause missed triggers. If you must use a softer top, probe on a hard insert or temporarily mount glass for calibration to build your mesh. Keep surfaces consistent between probing and printing. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846177]

How important is cleanliness of the nozzle and bed?

Critical. Filament residue on the nozzle or bed can distort the contact event and corrupt height readings. Clean both before probing to prevent false or delayed triggers. This is a trade‑off for the higher accuracy you gain from direct nozzle contact. Establish a quick wipe routine before G28/G29 or your mesh build. Accuracy in measurement directly improves the first layer. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

How do I install this one‑screw piezo sensor design?

  1. Mount the sensor and tighten the single securing screw.
  2. Connect the signal to your controller’s probe input as with other Z‑probes.
  3. Power up and set the onboard potentiometer for sensitivity, then test taps. This approach avoids major hotend carriage redesigns common with older piezo mods. Anyone comfortable with a screwdriver can complete it. Validate with a simple tap test before homing. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

How do I configure a piezo probe in Klipper?

Add a few lines in printer.cfg to declare the probe pin and behavior. Home Z with the probe (G28), then generate your mesh (G29 if mapped). Watch the terminal during tests to confirm clean triggers. The shared build shows initialization, homing, repeatability checks, and mesh probing videos, which mirror typical Klipper workflows. Keep sensitivity set to avoid false positives from vibrations. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

What repeatability should I expect from piezo vs other probes?

Many samplers repeat within 15–25 µm. The author states piezo can be about ten times better when installed and tuned. This tighter repeatability directly improves first‑layer uniformity. Run a tap test and log triggers in the terminal to verify stability. If spread increases, clean the nozzle, retune sensitivity, and confirm the bed is rigidly mounted. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

How do I tune sensitivity and deal with printer vibrations?

Use the onboard potentiometer to set the trigger threshold for your machine’s noise. Start conservative, then increase until light nozzle taps register reliably without false triggers. Recheck after changing fans, accelerations, or head mass. Quote: the sensor includes “a single potentiometer for adjusting the sensitivity depending on the ‘noisiness’ of our printer.” [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Do I really need auto‑levelling if my printer stays stable?

Some users rarely re‑level and still print fine. One reports the last levelling was about two years ago across three printers. If your motion system, frame, and bed are very stable, you may rely on manual tramming and skip probes. However, a probe helps catch small geometric shifts over time, especially with nozzle swaps. Evaluate your results and first‑layer consistency. [Elektroda, chemik_16, post #21846093]

What common failure modes should I watch for with piezo?

Missed or late triggers occur when filament residue cushions the tap. Clean both surfaces and retune sensitivity. Another edge case is very soft or compliant beds, which dampen the signal and reduce repeatability. Swapping the piezo disk is fast if it fails; the element is inexpensive and accessible. Verify by watching terminal messages during probe cycles. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Does this approach work with CoreXY printers, OctoPrint, and typical workflows?

Yes. The demonstrated setup runs on an average CoreXY with Klipper and OctoPrint. It shows initialization, G28 homing, a repeatability test, terminal output, and G29 meshing. This mirrors common open‑source printer stacks and helps validate triggers live. If your machine differs, follow the same test sequence and adjust sensitivity to your vibration profile. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

How long will a piezo sensor last and what if it breaks?

The piezo approach has no wearing mechanics and maintains precision over years. If the ceramic disk fails, replacement takes about five minutes and costs around 2 PLN. Keep a spare disk on hand with leads prepped. After replacement, retune the potentiometer and confirm consistent triggering in a brief repeatability test. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]

Why might my piezo probe miss taps on certain surfaces?

If the bed is too soft or compliant, it will not transmit a clear impact “voice” to the sensor. Hard beds like glass, smooth or fine‑textured, transmit the signal well. For problematic sheets, probe on glass to build a mesh, or stiffen the stack for calibration. Keep the nozzle and bed free of filament that can dampen contact. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846177]

What does the full probing sequence look like in practice?

The shared build documents sensor initialization, Z‑homing with G28, a repeatability test with terminal readout, and bed mesh generation with G29. Watching terminal messages helps correlate physical taps with firmware triggers. Use the same sequence after any nozzle change or carriage work to confirm stability before long prints. [Elektroda, yego666, post #21846045]
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