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Portable hot air soldering iron 8898D - videotests, measurements

p.kaczmarek2 1410 4

TL;DR

  • The 8898D portable hot air rework station is tested as a compact SMD soldering tool with a three-digit LED display, three nozzles, and a price of about £80.
  • It offers adjustable temperature from 100 °C to 480 °C and blowing up to 120 l/m, with the manual also describing calibration and °C/°F switching.
  • On junk boards, 400 °C removed a small SMD capacitor in about one minute and a large SOIC in less than two minutes, while some copper-heavy parts needed 450 °C.
  • Measured temperatures lagged the settings: 100 °C became about 70–80 °C, 350 °C read around 225 °C, and 450 °C stayed below 300 °C on the sensor.
  • The 8898D performs slightly better than the 8858, but the classic stationary 858 still heats much faster and reaches about 75 °C more in practice.
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📢 Listen (AI):
  • Portable 8898D hot air tool with metal nozzle and power cord on a white surface.
    the 8898D is a portable hot air offering up to 700 W and adjustable temperature(100 °C - 480 °C) and blowing (up to 120 l/m). Current settings and measurements are displayed on an easy-to-read three-digit LED display. The whole thing is available to buy for just £80 and we get up to three nozzles in the set. The question is, is it worth it? Let's find out!

    Set contents
    The packaging quickly develops doubts as to the intended use - according to the manufacturer, this is not a tanner, but a 'hot air rework station' for SMD. In addition, the whole thing is framed by slogans such as "Original Quality", "Practical Innovation" or thereabouts "Pursuit of excellence".
    Brown cardboard box with text “ORIGINAL QUALITY” and “SMD HOT AIR REWORK STATION”
    The box arrived a little battered, but the soldering iron doesn't seem to mind, as it is quite well protected for the journey.
    Open box with foam insert holding a 8898D handheld hot air tool and metal nozzles
    A manual is also included. Interestingly, the manual mentions up to 600 W, so we already have a contradiction with what I bought on offer. In addition, we have there a mention of the codes displayed by the station (e.g. S-E means a faulty heater). The manual explains how to set the temperature, the blowing level, how to calibrate and how to change the unit displayed between °C and °F.
    8898D instruction manual page with warnings, specifications table, and labeled device diagram
    The manual also specifies the specification of the heating element and its expected resistance depending on the operating voltage version (220 V or 110 V).


    Videotests
    Here are the tests carried out on a junk board. They were not intended to show the correct soldering, I was more interested to see how hard this soldering iron heats.

    F10, 350 °C



    Potentially a simple situation, the edge of the PCB, although you can see the ground spout. Nevertheless, it took quite a long time to heat.
    Just under four minutes to remove the component.


    F10, 400 °C


    Larger capacitor .Higher temperature, but also a simpler task. It's just an SMD capacitor. Probably in an 0805 case, or larger? It didn't go that hard. The SMD came off in a minute.

    F10, 400 °C:



    Now the larger circuit. I heated without a nozzle. Large SOIC housing. I tried to make circular motions to heat the solder evenly. Managed to remove the component in less than two minutes.


    F10, 400 °C:



    Again without a nozzle. SOIC8. As you can see, smaller parts that are not on large copper spouts can come off in as little as 30-40 seconds.


    F10, first 400 °C, in the middle (after 2 minutes) I switched to 450 °C:



    However, the spouting of the mass is doing its job. It was necessary to increase the temperature in order to sensibly be able to remove the two mounted coil scrolls.


    F10, 450 °C:



    The medium component in the TQFP enclosure was successfully removed in one minute forty.


    F10, 450 °C:



    The medium element in the TQFP housing did not come off after more than four minutes. I gave up. A heater would have been useful, although with better stations it is not required.


    Temperature and power measurements
    I used my earlier post for testing:
    OpenBeken configuration for hot air testing - MAX6675, temperature and power logging
    I measured temperature and power. I have collected the results for the 8898D in the interactive graphs:
    Multi-line chart of WEP 8858 temperature and power over time for different setpoints and airflow levels
    Interactive version: https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/8898D.html
    Let's start with a temperature of 100 °C. At full blast it managed to reach just over 80 °C, and at half blast only 70 °C. I guess in the case of my sensor, however, the small blowing does not serve as it should, the sensor does not get heat fast enough and cools down a bit faster.
    In WEP 8858 this 100 °C setting was more precise.
    At 350 °C, in the F05 and F10 blower settings, my sensor eventually measured only about 225 °C.
    Only with a very low blowing setting of F03 was it possible to achieve a significantly higher temperature, only then, in turn, the larger PCB heats up more slowly because the air here is the carrier for the heat. In addition, the heating is spot on and it is easier to "bulge" the laminate.
    With F05 and 450 °C blowing I have a rather skewed result, the probe must have moved, but it is already difficult. F05 and F10 at 450 °C has a similar situation as at 350 °C. 450 °C reaches less than 300 °C on the sensor.

    Now comparison with other stations:
    https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/version10/350c.html
    https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/version10/450c.html
    Multicolored comparison chart of hot air stations’ temperature and power at 450°C, full airflow
    Comparative chart of temperature and power for multiple hot-air stations at 350°C with full airflow
    the 8898 seems to be quite similar to, although slightly better than, the 8858. Especially the 450 °C target temperature is better, with less than 300 °C achieved in practice. Unfortunately, the classic 858 is still a long way off - it reaches a good 75 °C more. The results correspond to the power measurements - the 8898 heats with slightly more power than the 8858, but less than the 858.


    Summary
    Given a choice between the 8898 and the 8858, I prefer to choose the 8898. Nevertheless, both of these stations are trumped by the classic stationary 858, only that it is a different type of device. If you have problems with heating, you can, of course, reduce the blowing, which I also managed to illustrate, but then you heat in spots and more slowly, it is also easier to "bulge" the PCB. Everyone has to test a new station on junk PCBs themselves and judge how they work better. I am most comfortable with fast heating of a large area, as I don't use a heater, but it still depends on what we are doing. That's what we have different sized nozzles for.
    Overall, it's not bad, although with the size and weight of the classic 858, I don't know if there's any point in combining with the 8898D.
    What hot air stations do you guys use?

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Offline 
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14233 posts with rating 12132, helped 647 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21835863
    androot
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    It is better to preheat the board from underneath, especially if there is any spouting of compound. Then you don't have to heat the component as much.
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  • #3 21836247
    kaczmarekabt
    Level 2  
    I use a hotplate to solder components, it is particularly helpful when you are dealing with 0402 or 0201 size passive components and some ubga circuits. However, it is not always possible to solder with a hotplate, for example when dealing with 2 sided boards, then you need to use hot-air. I recommend using the Yihua 853AA station, it works very well for me, heats up components quickly (sometimes too quickly and blows me away ;) )
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  • #4 21836416
    skywalker2
    Level 15  
    I have also been using the 853AA ad for many years and I am happy with it. The only thing I miss is the ability to program a few temperatures that I use most often, but you get used to that too. Of course, after a few months of use, the factory had to be corrected and the whole station controller had to be soldered in my own way. The problem was that the hotair was heating too much despite the correct display of the set temperature. This resulted in the hotair housing being over-melted by too high a temperature. Until the metal housing of the hotair became discoloured. After desoldering the controller, it has been working faultlessly for several years.
  • #5 21836594
    kaczmarekabt
    Level 2  
    I have been using this station for over a year now, so far I have not had any problems with temperatures. As far as modifications go, I have added goosenecks, lighting and a microscope to it and removed the top suspension on the hot-air as I find it unnecessary.
📢 Listen (AI):

FAQ

TL;DR: 8898D’s 450 °C setpoint delivered <300 °C on-sensor in tests; "Overall, it's not bad." [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542] Why it matters: This FAQ helps hobbyists and repair techs choose settings, workflows, and gear to rework SMD parts reliably with the 8898D.

Quick Facts

What are the real-world specs of the 8898D hot air tool?

It offers adjustable 100–480 °C, airflow up to 120 l/min, a three-digit LED, and three included nozzles. The offer listed 700 W, while the manual mentions 600 W. Expect practical temperature shortfalls at higher airflow based on logged measurements. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

How accurate is the 8898D’s temperature versus the setpoint?

At a 350 °C setpoint, the on-board sensor measured about 225 °C at F05 or F10 airflow. At 450 °C, readings stayed under 300 °C except at very low airflow. The station prioritizes airflow volume over heat density. "Overall, it's not bad." [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

Which airflow setting helps parts come off faster?

Use lower airflow (e.g., F03) to raise local air temperature, but heat a smaller area. Higher airflow (F05–F10) moves more air yet lowers effective temperature at the work. Balance airflow to the package size and copper plane. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

Why can’t I lift parts over big ground planes?

Large copper pours wick heat away. Preheat the board from underneath so you don’t need to overheat the component. This reduces thermal stress and speeds lift-off on planes. "Preheat from underneath" is a proven fix. [Elektroda, androot, post #21835863]

How long does it take to remove common SMD packages with the 8898D?

Examples from tests: SOIC packages came off in under two minutes at 400 °C without a nozzle. Smaller SOIC8 parts lifted in about 30–40 seconds when not on heavy copper. Larger TQFP at 450 °C took about 1:40 in one case. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

8898D vs WEP 8858 vs classic 858: which should I choose?

8898D edges out the 8858 in achieved temperature and power yet trails the classic 858. The 858 delivered roughly 75 °C more at target conditions. Choose 858 for bench work; choose 8898D for portable use. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

What do error codes like S-E mean on the 8898D?

The manual lists codes; S-E indicates a faulty heater. The manual also covers setting temperature, airflow, calibration, and switching units. Keep the manual accessible for diagnostics and setup. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

How do I calibrate the 8898D or switch between °C and °F?

Follow the manual sequence to enter calibration, adjust displayed temperature, and confirm. The same manual section explains toggling display units between °C and °F and setting airflow levels. Save changes before powering down. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

What is OpenBeken in this context?

In this thread, OpenBeken handled temperature and power logging for the 8898D tests using a MAX6675 sensor setup. The author shared interactive charts showing setpoint versus measured response at various airflow levels. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

Is the 100 °C mode useful for heat-shrink or low-temp tasks?

At a 100 °C setpoint, full airflow only reached a little over 80 °C on the sensor, and about 70 °C at half airflow. Use reduced airflow and close distance, or preheat, to hit effective temperatures for heat-shrink. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

Edge case: What if a TQFP still won’t come off at 450 °C?

One TQFP did not release after more than four minutes at 450 °C. Add bottom-side preheat, switch to a larger nozzle, or shield surroundings. A dedicated preheater often solves this impasse. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

How do I remove a SOIC with the 8898D? (3-step quick method)

  1. Fit a medium nozzle; set 400–450 °C and moderate airflow.
  2. Circle the package evenly; keep 3–5 mm standoff for uniform heat.
  3. Lift with tweezers once solder flows; avoid prying to protect pads. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]

Is the 8898D worth the ~£80 for portable rework?

For on-the-go SMD jobs, it performs slightly better than an 8858 and includes useful nozzles. It still lags a bench 858 in achieved temperature and area heating. Consider your need for portability versus peak performance. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21835542]
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