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Self-assembly kit LED clock CAI-201 STC8G1K17 + DS1302 with housing

p.kaczmarek2 2262 29
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  • Green 7-segment clock display showing “8:00” on a white surface
    What kit for a beginner to learn soldering? Here is another simple and enjoyable kit - a clock with alarm and temperature measurement based on a large 7-segment display, all realised on a double-sided board based on through-hole assembly and available to buy for just under a dozen zloty.
    DIY clock kit parts: PCB, large 7‑segment display, bag of components, and clear acrylic case pieces
    The kit includes the board, a set of components, the display, as well as a neat acrylic case. You will additionally need a 5 V power supply, but such probably everyone, as well as of course a soldering iron with accessories. The cheapest one will suffice:
    Inexpensive temperature-controlled soldering iron (UYUE 301D/APD931/BT136S)
    I also received a manual - but in Chinese, will this help us?
    Opened sheet with Chinese instructions, a step table and example display readouts Folded sheet with Chinese instructions, an electronics schematic, and a QR code
    Fortunately, there is documentation for this clock available separately on the web, you can find it by the name CAI-201.
    I was most interested in the display - it is controlled via I2C, it must have a built-in controller:
    Close-up of the back of a display module showing pin labels: GND, SDA, SCL, and 5V
    The board is quite simple, it could probably be realised on its own with just one layer of copper, but why, as the production cost would probably not decrease at all:
    Blue double-sided PCB held in a hand, showing traces, vias, and through-hole pads
    On the description layer everything is nicely shown - orientation, symbols and component values. Rather, there is no way to get confused here - even next to the jack socket there is information that the outer contact is ground and the middle contact is power.
    Blue CAI-201 clock kit PCB held in a hand, with labeled solder pads and component outlines
    Before soldering it is a good idea to clean the board with isopropyl alcohol IPA. Then solder, starting with the smallest components. Insert the component, heat up the soldering iron (but without overdoing it), you can add a little flux to make it easier, and heat up the pad, applying the solder to it. We take care of the hygiene of the soldering iron tip. We cut off the rest of the legs.
    I started with the resistors. It's best to check the values with a multimeter, unless we have signed off. It is also useful to know the barcode.
    Blue CAI-201 clock kit PCB held by alligator clips, showing labeled footprints for components
    Close-up of a through-hole resistor soldered on a PCB, labeled R2 10K
    Then a 32.768 kHz quartz resonator, for precision timing, used by the DS1302 Real Time Clock (RTC) chip.
    Blue CAI-201 clock kit PCB with labeled solder pads, held in a helping-hands clamp
    Capacitors 22 pF between oscillator legs and ground - to stabilise operation.
    Close-up of a PCB with a 32.768 kHz crystal resonator and a ceramic capacitor marked “22”
    100 nF ceramic capacitor at the microcontroller supply - for power supply decoupling. Same for the RTC.
    Close-up of a blue PCB with a soldered “104” ceramic disc capacitor and fingers in the background
    Close-up of a PCB with an IC socket and a ceramic capacitor marked “104”
    Soldering the bases - obviously cut according to the marking on the board.
    Close-up of a blue PCB with through-holes and fresh solder joints on the underside Close-up of solder joints and traces on a blue PCB
    Almost done:
    Blue CAI-201 clock kit PCB with DIP sockets, held in a helping-hands clamp during assembly
    Buzzer (buzzer) also has polarity:
    Close-up of a buzzer on a blue PCB labeled “LS1 Buzzer” with a plus polarity marking
    Transistor for switching on the buzzer (can't be soldered in reverse here either!):
    Close-up of PCB with IC socket, metal can resonator, S8550 transistor, and black buzzer
    The photoresistor is used to adjust the brightness of the clock to the environment. It needs to be left long enough to dogleg it to the case later:
    Side view of a blue PCB with a buzzer, DIP sockets, capacitors, and a coin-cell battery holder
    Almost done, we finally solder the display and place the circuits in the bases:
    Bottom of a blue PCB with solder joints next to a large 7-segment display module Assembled CAI-201 DIY PCB with DIP sockets, buzzer, buttons, and a DC 5 V power jack
    Close-up of a PCB showing DS1302 IC, 32.768 kHz crystal, buzzer, and 10 kΩ resistors Close-up of a PCB with an STC 8G1K17 DIP IC in a socket and labeled 10k resistors
    A thermistor (for temperature measurement) remains and the housing can still be screwed together.
    DIY clock PCB in a clear acrylic case held in a hand; visible buttons, buzzer, and DC barrel power jack. Close-up of a screw and nut fastener in a transparent acrylic enclosure

    Clock in action:
    Green 7-segment display in a clear case showing “1845” Green 7‑segment display in an acrylic case showing “17°C”

    Basically, everything works, although you have to make sure you turn off the alarm, as it is quite loud and can wake you up in the middle of the night if you click blindly.
    Plus, the whole thing can be unplugged and the battery from the DS1302 will still hold the time, so you don't need to re-set it when you move the clock to a different location.

    In summary , this was a simple to run DIY for a beginner. Basically, it rather exercises only the soldering, as the whole thing starts immediately after assembly and it's hard to run into a problem to solve here. The microcontroller in the kit is of course already programmed and the board is well labelled, so you know what to solder. Resistor values are also unlikely to be confused here, as there is essentially one - 10 kΩ. But is that a bad thing? Just in time to encourage electronics.
    The more advanced can try programming this microcontroller themselves via the ICSP connector, or running the display separately at all - I wonder if its control protocol is known, I'll have to look.

    Documentation attached.
    Attachments:
    • GY19490.pdf (1.07 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
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    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Offline 
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14241 posts with rating 12148, helped 647 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21840421
    ZbeeGin
    Level 39  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    More advanced can try to program this microcontroller themselves via the ICSP connector

    If only this STC8G Reference Manual was not so chaotic then some alternative software could be written. :( By the way preparing dedicated headers for the SDCC compiler.
  • #3 21841256
    acctr
    Level 39  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    or run the display separately at all - I wonder if its control protocol is known, I need to look

    The display interface is quite specific, similar to sliding register control, e.g. 74595.
    CLK and Dn are known, LE is the latch, SD1 is the serial output - allowing multiple such displays to be connected in series.
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  • #5 21841569
    bubu1769
    Level 43  
    Such a small comment.
    The instructions available in English refer to the RGB watch "CAI-201-V2".
    The watch described here is the "CAI-201", it is not RGB, it is not possible to change colours in it.
  • #6 21841600
    Ktoś_tam
    Level 40  
    bubu1769 wrote:
    A small comment.
    The instructions available in English refer to the RGB watch "CAI-201-V2".
    The watch described here is "CAI-201", it is not RGB, it is not possible to change colours in it.

    The English manual I don't know and I don't want to look through it. In the original Chinese one from this watch there is also information about changing the colours even though they cannot be changed (I guess as an option).
    By the way, the Chinese manual is very well translated by the translator.
    Besides, exactly the same watch only with a blue display was recently in the shop, maybe it will still be there, I don't know.
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  • #7 21841602
    bubu1769
    Level 43  
    Well, I am talking about this watch from the electrode shop.
    It took me a while to figure out why the watch's menu was missing several items described in the instructions.
  • #9 21841621
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Now I can already see the ambiguity seriously myself.... on the schematic there is indeed a display with D0 and D1, but my display has only SDA and SCL described:
    Close-up of the back of a display module showing pin labels: GND, SDA, SCL, and 5V
    It looks like I got a different display than on the instructions?
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  • #10 21841638
    bubu1769
    Level 43  
    I suspect that depending on which display is given in the kit then that is the soft in the microcontroller and the manual itself is universal for both versions.
    Here is the translated Chinese manual, note the text in the bold table.
    Attachments:
    • CAI-201-V2-1.pdf (189.16 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #11 21841654
    acctr
    Level 39  
    On the one hand it's bad that it's something different, but on the other hand you have free prock pins that can be used for e.g. DCF77 when writing your program on STC.
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  • #12 21841798
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
    My friend and I were recently looking for a DIY for an eight-year-old who wants to solder something for the first time and make it shine.
    We ended up with a Christmas tree. He soldered it with a transformer. Then a lot of adjustments had to be made, starting with the RGB diodes and the tracks, which fell off.
    Now it lights up.
    I had to lend him another soldering iron because he wants to solder some DIY watch.
    Beginnings are always difficult, but he is 8 years old and has parents who are not familiar with electronics.
    I wonder if he'll get discouraged with soldering.
  • #13 21842034
    music
    Level 28  
    Does it run fairly stably? Any lag, acceleration? Temperature measurement holding up?
  • #14 21842080
    bubu1769
    Level 43  
    Watch like a watch, it works even well.
    The temperature can be adjusted in the settings.
  • #15 21842234
    Ktoś_tam
    Level 40  
    music wrote:
    Is it reasonably stable? Any lag, acceleration? Temperature measurement holding up?

    It has a time correction. You can add or subtract a given number of seconds each day.
    The temperature is also set according to a standard temperature. Does the thermometer indicate the correct temperature? Yes 100% I am not convinced. It would have to be checked in a wider range.
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  • #16 21842912
    Marcos88
    Level 7  
    Team clock is it from Ali?
  • #17 21843698
    Nepto
    Level 23  
    szeryf3 wrote:
    Recently a friend and I were looking for a DIY for an eight-year-old who wants to solder something for the first time and make it shine.
    We ended up with a Christmas tree. He soldered it with a transformer.

    I happened to be organising 'DIY electronics workshops' events for children aged 7-13, and I noticed that the hardest part for them was holding the thick handle of the soldering iron. Soldering irons like the T210 and similar were ideal. I was surprised that even 7-8 year olds were able to solder this particular clock in the end (exactly what we had "in the workshop"), although of course under the supervision of the supervisors (about 1 knowledgeable adult per 3-4 people).
  • #18 21843855
    st_krzysiek
    Level 12  
    I needed something for speed for the bedroom because another watch with a display on the ceiling had died and I decided on this invention. It has a photoresistor so it dims at night and doesn't shine too brightly. The only drawback I've noticed is that the rogue is in a hurry. Like 2-3 minutes a month. In principle in the bedroom this may not bother you because a person has better movements in the morning because he "overslept" :) but a DCF would be useful. The rest OK
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  • #19 21843890
    Nepto
    Level 23  
    st_krzysiek wrote:
    The only flaw I have noticed is that the villain is in a hurry. Like 2-3 minutes a month.
    The only flaw I've noticed is that the villain rushes
    Because there somehow the resonator connection area is done strangely. According to the DS1302 datasheet, the resonator directly connects to the X1, X2 outputs.

    DS1302 datasheet excerpt: 32.768 kHz oscillator notes, crystal specs table, and typical PCB layout for X1/X2

    Here, 22pF capacitors have been added to each X1, X2, for ground, and obviously no one has bothered with the advice about a ground field under the resonator and as short resonator/circuit connections as possible. The base probably doesn't help either.
    Close-up of a PCB with DS1302 IC, 32768 crystal, and 22 pF capacitors C1 and C2

    Maybe you could try if by replacing C1, C2 with such C0G/NP0 with smaller tolerances or possibly gently changing these C1, C2 you could correct the frequency. Or maybe replace the resonator?
    The topic of correcting rushed clocks on 32768Hz resonators was discussed in this thread: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4082811.html
  • #20 21843993
    Ktoś_tam
    Level 40  
    st_krzysiek wrote:
    The only flaw I have noticed is that the villain is in a hurry. Like 2-3 minutes a month. In principle in the bedroom this may not bother you because a person has better movements in the morning because they have "overslept" :) but a DCF would be useful. The rest OK

    Setting 'd9 0' (second character is mirror image 9), penultimate setting as per instructions. Divide 120 or 180 seconds by 30 days and subtract that many seconds in this setting.
  • #21 21844711
    lukas198820
    Level 15  
    Can someone please explain to me what this power decoupling is for?
  • #22 21845550
    _ACeK_
    Level 14  
    lukas198820 wrote:
    Can someone explain to me why this power disconnect is there?


    :smile: On the video from 18:02 ⬇️



    Ben Eater explains very well and shows what it is all about :idea: Reducing interference and improving control signals :wink:
  • #23 21845662
    acctr
    Level 39  
    lukas198820 wrote:
    Can someone explain to me what this power supply decoupling is for?

    Sometimes the circuit draws more current and there is a voltage collapse, the decoupling prevents this.
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  • #24 21845692
    lukas198820
    Level 15  
    I didn't know that every electronic circuit new has power supply decoupling?
  • #26 21853952
    sq3evp
    Level 39  
    Interesting kit - I saw someone on YT recently bragging about having designed this, but it looks identical.
  • #27 21854164
    lukas198820
    Level 15  
    And in human terms what is decoupling can you explain ?
  • #28 21854231
    acctr
    Level 39  
    If you start a tractor with a trailer loaded with bales, without the flywheel the engine would stall. The flywheel, thanks to the stored energy, temporarily drives the shaft until the next ignition.
    The same with the capacitor - the energy stored in it is used to supply power in brief moments when current consumption increases rapidly. In digital systems, this is the norm.
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  • #29 21854232
    sq3evp
    Level 39  
    lukas198820 wrote:
    And in human terms what is decoupling then can you explain ?

    A capacitor can only "decouple" the DC component, i.e. not allow vibrations to pass through by short-circuiting them to ground through capacitance - I guess that's what it would be in this case.
  • #30 21854262
    acctr
    Level 39  
    sq3evp wrote:
    A capacitor can only "decouple" the DC component, i.e. not allow vibrations to pass through by short-circuiting them to ground via capacitance - I guess that's what it would be in this case.

    But why should it short circuit to ground? The voltage collapse alone when switching the digital outputs reaches the ground potential.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Beginner-friendly CAI-201 LED clock kit uses a 32.768 kHz RTC crystal; “a simple to run DIY for a beginner.” Build with THT parts, I2C display, STC8G1K17 MCU, acrylic case, and 5 V input. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps first-time solderers build, power, program, and troubleshoot the CAI-201 clock kit confidently.

Quick Facts

What’s in the CAI-201 kit, and what extra tools do I need?

You get the PCB, all components, the large I2C display, and an acrylic case. Bring a 5 V supply, a temperature‑controlled soldering iron, flux, side cutters, and IPA for cleaning. The microcontroller is pre‑programmed, so assembly is the main task. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How do I assemble the clock without mistakes?

Follow three steps: 1) Clean PCB with IPA; solder smallest parts first (resistors, crystal, 22 pF, 100 nF). 2) Add sockets, buzzer (observe +), transistor, and long‑lead photoresistor. 3) Solder display, add thermistor, insert ICs, then power up. The silkscreen shows orientations. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How is time kept if I unplug the clock?

The DS1302 RTC uses a backup battery. It holds the time when you disconnect power, so you don’t need to reset after moving the clock. “Battery from the DS1302 will still hold the time.” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

What powers the kit, and can I use a phone charger?

It needs a stable 5 V DC source. A quality USB phone charger with a suitable cable or adapter works well. The board’s jack labels show ground outer and power center, helping avoid reverse polarity during hookup. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How bright is the display at night?

A photoresistor (LDR) auto‑adjusts brightness to ambient light. Leave its leads long so it reaches the housing window. This reduces glare in dark rooms and improves readability in daylight. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How accurate is the clock over time?

It references a 32.768 kHz watch crystal with 22 pF capacitors. That timing standard is typical for RTCs and keeps stable time for everyday use. For tighter accuracy, ensure good solder joints and avoid heating the crystal excessively. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How do I set or disable the alarm?

Use the front buttons to set time and alarm per the CAI‑201 documentation. The buzzer is loud, so confirm the alarm is off if you experiment at night. This edge case can surprise new users during testing. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Can I reprogram the STC8G1K17 MCU, and with what tools?

Yes. The board exposes an ICSP header for in‑circuit programming. Developers note the STC8G Reference Manual feels chaotic; some prepare SDCC compiler headers to simplify work. “Preparing dedicated headers for the SDCC compiler.” [Elektroda, ZbeeGin, post #21840421]

What communication drives the big 7‑segment display?

The display is controlled over I2C and has a built‑in controller. That simplifies firmware and wiring, leaving only two data lines for updates from the microcontroller. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Which components are polarity or orientation sensitive?

Observe orientation for the buzzer (+), transistor package, IC sockets/IC notch, electrolytics if present, and the DC jack (ground outer, power center). The LDR needs placement for the case cutout. Incorrect buzzer polarity is a common failure. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

What passive parts and typical values does the kit use?

It uses 10 kΩ resistors, 22 pF capacitors for the crystal load, and 100 nF decoupling near the MCU and RTC. Place decouplers close to power pins for best noise performance. These values match the build photos and notes. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

How do I troubleshoot if the clock doesn’t start?

Check 5 V at the board, verify IC orientation in sockets, and inspect solder bridges. Confirm the 32.768 kHz crystal and 22 pF caps are installed. Ensure the I2C display header is fully soldered. Finally, reseat the RTC and MCU. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Is this a good first soldering project for kids or classes?

Yes. It’s through‑hole, well‑labeled, and works immediately after assembly. “A simple and enjoyable kit” with a clear silkscreen reduces confusion, building confidence in novices and classrooms. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Can I build the PCB myself on a single copper layer?

The reviewer notes the circuit is simple enough that a single‑layer version might be possible. However, the supplied double‑sided board is cost‑effective and already optimized, so DIY re‑layout brings little benefit. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]

Any safety notes for powering and testing?

Use a regulated 5 V adapter. Avoid shorting the DC jack; observe ground/power labeling. Keep the iron tip clean, use flux sparingly, and trim leads to prevent shorts. Test the alarm in daytime to avoid surprises. [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21840262]
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