Astra G, central locking does not respond to the remote control

I would hold off on this switch. If you have a second key, check how it works. If it's ok, then it's logical that the control unit is fine. Replace the battery in the old key and reprogram it - it should be enough.

I just don't have a second key. This is the only one. The battery is new, as I wrote, I have to program it from time to time because it forgets, it unprograms itself.

Bump.

I had a similar problem as you Iscariot the reason was the battery socket was torn out of the plate - I soldered something to the electronics, it worked for a while but after some time the same thing again, I tried to put something to press the battery lightly to the plate without re-soldering ... again it worked for some time, but it often lost the signal and unprogrammed , I had to re-program quite often according to the instructions .... Usually it worked for a while, but recently it doesn't want to work anymore, I soldered the battery mount again, but I don't want to synchronize, the LED is on, but somehow strange, - it is constantly on for about 3-5 seconds, sometimes it blinks weakly as if the current was low, the battery is rather good because it has 3.65V (in the second similar remote control from the second Opel the diode is on only when the button is pressed and this one works fine but in the second car ....

what could it be that it can't be programmed and the diode stays on for so long?

Fixed - it turned out that the paths needed to be corrected - the battery was also weak - after soldering the paths and replacing the battery - it works very nice ...

I did so.

I put the key in the ignition, pressed the button, and while holding the button pressed, I turned on the ignition. the lock closed and opened, and everything worked.

@Iskariote - I just ran into an identical problem which is caused by the battery socket falling off the board. You need to take the board out of the housing and solder the socket properly - first whitewash the battery plates that are to be soldered with flux, then make small drops on the pads and solder by pressing the socket so that it "sits down" Finally, you can put a piece of thin sponge between the housing and the battery, just in case, to protect against tearing out the socket by a shock, e.g. after a fall.
It worked for me.

By the way, do you know how I can make a second key with remote control and immobilizer? Some description, because probably both the remote control and the iButton need to be programmed.

Of course in ASO, I know that but maybe you can do it on foot and not for 5 hundred.

If you have a PIN, the cost of programming in ASO is PLN 150. You can also do it yourself, e.g. Techem. If not, it is PLN 200 for downloading the PIN.

Can there be any key (remote control + iButton) of this type? For example, a stimulant from Allegro?
Of course I don't have a pin but before I go to the Dealership, I still pokombinuje - I'll ask the seller and the new mechanic - apparently he works at the Dealership, so he probably has "opportunities"

I just bought a used key with working electronics. I moved the tip + tablet and the procedure for entering the remote control did not work.

vsymod wrote:

I just bought a used key with working electronics. I moved the tip + tablet and the procedure for entering the remote control did not work.

What is the entry procedure? Have you used TECH?

I haven't connected TECH yet. I meant the synchronization procedure. Holding down the button on the remote control after turning on the ignition is synchronization of the remote control after replacing the battery. If the battery in the remote control is not in contact or there are cold February in the battery socket, the power supply of the remote control disappears and the key must be synchronized with the car. A "foreign" key can only be added using the diagnostic interface.

Then go to TECH. There is no other method. Unless you buy a remote control with a control panel from him.