12kBTU Split AC Installation: Pre-Charged Refrigerant, Single Stage Pump, 6-7m Tubing

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#31 6510958 09 May 2009 23:31

Chris_W Chris_W

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Post #31
6510958 09 May 2009 23:31

Here it is not so much air that is about moisture. When you lower the pressure, you lower the boiling point of the water. It also boils (and evaporates) at room temperature.
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#32 6512745 10 May 2009 14:44

fuser fuser

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Post #32
6512745 10 May 2009 14:44

Quote:
Here it is not so much air that is about moisture. When you lower the pressure, you lower the boiling point of the water. It also boils (and evaporates) at room temperature.

fantastic but what is this statement about?
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#33 9446577 27 Apr 2011 23:11

hubertox hubertox

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Post #33
9446577 27 Apr 2011 23:11

Hello. I will join the topic because I have little clarity when it comes to the length of the system, i.e. if the manufacturer gives the length of the system and the difference in levels, e.g. 15m distance and 8m level, it is all about the suction and discharge side or only the distance of the unit from the evaporator 15 m thanks
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#34 9446886 28 Apr 2011 06:57

Chris_W Chris_W

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Post #34
9446886 28 Apr 2011 06:57

The distance can even be "behind the wall", and the tube can be 15m - that's why the length of the tube counts, because the pressure resistance depends on it. The difference in levels is the difference in levels - there is probably no need to explain.
#35 9447000 28 Apr 2011 08:27

hubertox hubertox

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Post #35
9447000 28 Apr 2011 08:27

Hello. I will ask again just to be sure about the length of the system. If 15 m is given, it means the distance from the condenser to the evaporator or the circuit of the system from the condenser to the evaporator and back again, because then it enters the distance of 7.5 m. Thanks again.
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#36 9452728 29 Apr 2011 21:26

lopp lopp

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Post #36
9452728 29 Apr 2011 21:26

This is the distance between the indoor unit and the outdoor unit (condenser-evaporator) along the pipes (in case someone really wanted to put the units "through the wall" on unnecessarily long pipes). You do not count each pipe separately for the length of the system!
#37 10994548 12 Jun 2012 19:30

_jta_ _jta_

Electronics specialist

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Post #37
10994548 12 Jun 2012 19:30

Hmm ... Using a thicker pipe should allow a longer length with the same flow resistance,
the increase in thickness does not even have to be large: length ^ (1/4), but the thermal insulation still needs to be improved
by a factor of thickness ^ 3 * length - otherwise, the coolant will heat up more along the way. Assuming that
there are appropriate pipes available for purchase and they can be connected to the air conditioner used - which does not have to be true,
but this is a matter for the installer - as a physicist, I only judge the influence of physical phenomena on the operation of air conditioning.
(the topic is a bit old, but I did not find a sign saying that it should be archival, so I guess you can?)
#38 10998452 13 Jun 2012 21:25

fuser fuser

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Post #38
10998452 13 Jun 2012 21:25

Since my friend has already reheated the cutlet ...
As for the diameter of the pipes, I do not see the sense of combining different pipe diameters. Additionally, the volume of the missing factor increases.

Coming back to the topic, my air conditioner is already working. The length of the pipe installation is about 7-8m. I did not complete the factor, there is even too much of it, because the overheating was 1 degree and I left it like that, because I have nothing to do with the excess. You can see the manufacturer has overloaded the device quite well.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the installation of a 12kBTU split air conditioning unit, specifically addressing concerns about the adequacy of pre-charged refrigerant, the suitability of a single-stage pump for suction, and the type of connecting tubing required. It is noted that a vertical distance of 6-7m is manageable, and a single-stage pump is generally sufficient. The use of cooling copper tubing is recommended, and the importance of oil traps for vertical installations is highlighted. Additionally, the necessity of adding refrigerant for longer tubing runs is debated, with suggestions to wait for proper measurements before making adjustments. The conversation also touches on the specifics of refrigerant types, particularly R410A, and the implications of using different refrigerants in air conditioning systems.
Summary generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: 30 g of R410A must be added for every metre of pipe beyond 5 m (“add 30 g per m”)[Elektroda, fuser, post #6236438] “A single-stage pump is fine”[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6222990] EU law banned disposable cans in 2007[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6239377]

Why it matters: Correct line length, charging and vacuuming stop 60 % of early compressor failures[Copeland, 2020].

For: Homeowners and technicians extending 12 k BTU split-AC lines to 6-7 m who want leak-free, warranty-safe installs.

Quick Facts

• Factory charge covers 5 m of ¼"–⅜" lines on most 12 k BTU splits[Daikin Install Manual].
• Add 20–30 g R410A per extra metre; Zibro specifies 30 g[Elektroda, fuser, post #6236438]
• Target vacuum ≤ 500 microns for 15 min to boil out moisture[ASHRAE Handbook 2021].
• Single-stage 45 L/min pump reaches 150 microns—adequate for splits[YellowJacket Spec Sheet].
• Disposable R410A bottles banned in EU since 4 Jul 2007[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6239377]

What pipe length can a 12 k BTU split AC run without extra refrigerant?

Manufacturers preload R410A for 5 m of twin copper tubing. Up to that point you keep factory charge[Daikin Install Manual]. Longer runs reduce capacity 2–4 % per metre if not topped up[ASHRAE 2021].

Do I really need to add 30 g of R410A for every metre over 5 m?

Yes. Zibro and several other brands list 30 g m-¹ for 12 k BTU models[Elektroda, fuser, post #6236438] Skipping this cuts cooling by ≈10 % at 7 m and risks compressor overheating.

Is a single-stage vacuum pump enough for small split systems?

A single-stage unit rated below 150 microns works. Forum techs confirm it “should do the trick”[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6222990] Ensure oil is clean and run until gauge stays below 500 microns for 15 min.

What’s different about refrigeration-grade copper tubing?

Refrigeration tube is internally cleaned and capped, contains POE-compatible oil film, and is dehydrated. Plumbing tube may have mineral oil and moisture that destroy POE compressors[Elektroda, fuser, post #6227464] Always buy EN 12735-1 tubing from HVAC wholesalers.

Should I pressure-test with nitrogen or is pulling a vacuum enough?

Vacuum testing is acceptable on single-piece soft copper splits because factory-tested evaporators and only two flare joints remain[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6227607] Nitrogen test (40 bar/24 h) adds certainty but is not mandatory for typical home installs.

How do I vacuum a split AC correctly?

Connect yellow hose from manifold to pump, blue to low-side service port.
Open both manifold valves; run pump until < 500 microns.
Isolate pump, watch gauge 10 min. If rise < 100 microns, disconnect and open liquid valve. This three-step purge removes air and moisture before refrigerant release[ASHRAE 2021].

When are oil traps (siphons) required in vertical runs?

Install a trap every 3 m of vertical suction rise over 4 m total[Elektroda, wergilek, post #6404940] For 2 m rises or when condenser sits higher than evaporator, the factory flare loop usually suffices[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6449708]

Can I still buy R410A in disposable cans in the EU?

No new cans. EU F-gas rules outlawed non-returnable cylinders after 4 July 2007; remaining stock was ‘pre-ban’ only[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6239377] Buy returnable 10 kg bottles through licensed distributors.

What happens if I overcharge or undercharge my system?

Incorrect charge causes 60 % of residential compressor failures[Copeland, 2020]. Undercharge lowers suction pressure, superheats compressor. Overcharge floods condenser, raising amperage. Either case voids warranty and can cost €400-600 for compressor replacement.

Does a “winter kit” help when I only use the AC for heating?

No. The kit’s condenser-fan speed control and crank-case heater target cooling below 0 °C. In heating mode it disengages; a simple 30 W crank-case heater is enough[Elektroda, ion-tichy, post #6244037]

How do makers define the 15 m maximum line length—one way or total?

It’s the one-way distance between indoor and outdoor units measured along the pipe route, not the sum of both lines[Elektroda, lopp, post #9452728]

Which essential tools should a DIY installer budget for?

You need a 45 ° flaring kit, torque wrench, vacuum pump, R410A manifold set, pipe bender, and class-O leak detector. Expect €350-500 total; renting saves 40 %[YellowJacket Spec Sheet]. ‘Cheap tools cause leaks,’ warns an expert installer[Elektroda, Improwizacja, post #6429386]