Seal Leaky Cast Iron Elbow: Cold Water Inlet, Difficult to Reach Spot, Temporary Solution

I have a leaking cast iron elbow from the cold water inlet in a place that is difficult to reach and practically impossible to replace. Renovation, including the replacement of pipes, is planned only in spring, so advise what to seal it with. The buttonhole is in the center of the elbow with a diameter, so to speak expertly, one drop every two minutes. The paxylin was useless, twice (if it wasn't, the surfaces were clean and dry). Do you have any other ways?

In your place, I would drain the water so that there was no pressure (if possible), I would clean the surface, cover it with a poxipole, wrap it with PVC insulation tape or self-vulcanizing (such a stretchy rubber) to it, as it is possible to tighten the steel band on the key and it should hold

the problem is more that the surface of the material is galvanized. and hence the difficulty of adhesion of the adhesive to this surface. I used to glue such a leak with glue adapted to such materials ... techmot (or techmont) two-component epoxy squeezed in the hand ... unfortunately I don't remember which kind ... and they have a lot of it.
nevertheless, I had to wipe the surface well with emery paper, then degrease it and have enough access to make a band of this glue around the repaired element. otherwise there is no chance that the pressure would withstand ...
greetings

Added after 6 [minutes]:

... cont ... with cast iron it is even more difficult ... you have to clean (polish, smooth) the entire circumference of this bend for better adhesion and then proceed as suggested by me and / or a colleague drinking.
greetings

Hello!

If "one drop every two minutes" leak, then a car inner tube washer or something similar, a band twisted with a screw and until spring the problem should be resolved.

Regards

Jan

either way is good. but it comes down to one thing: there must be a blindfold and this is probably the biggest problem ... because as ajpier writes ... in a place that is difficult to access and practically impossible to replace. well, and it will be enough.

You can still do otherwise. Drill a hole in the leak, thread it, screw in a screw with a leather or rubber gasket.

Turn off the valve and turn on the tap to let the water drain from the pipes. Try to apply a large amount of silicone to the place.

I couldn't drain the water, and the silicone would probably be useless anyway, since the poxylin didn't help.

pitnit wrote:

You can still do otherwise. Drill a hole in the leak, thread it, screw in a screw with a leather or rubber gasket.

I wrote that there is no access. If I were to do something like this, I'd rather break down the walls and start renovation today.
But apart from all that, I managed to stick it together. After cleaning it again with sandpaper to a literal flash and degreasing, I covered the hole with epoxy resin over an area of two square centimeters and holds it extremely tight. Out of curiosity, I cleaned a piece of unnecessary pipe and put resin and poksylin on it. I have to admit that the hardness and adhesion strength of the resin is really impressive, which cannot be said about the poxylin. It has its hardness and so on, but in my opinion it is overrated and I will not change my mind.
For now, thank you for the advice.

And in advertising, poksillin is reliable, because it is the power of advertising, but sometimes you have to use the old scouting methods, you did just that and others will benefit from this experience. Respect.