Thermo valve. with the head turned on and the radiator warms up, why?

Hello warm
I have a question, what could be the reason why a radiator is heating me when it should not be heating. A steel plate radiator equipped with a thermostatic insert (it looks like with a pre-setting) there is the number 4, the number 0 and one more number 0. I do not know the manufacturer. There is a standard Comap thermostatic head with 1-5 regulation and snowflake on the valve. And this snowflake option does not work for me. As far as I know, the snowflake is to turn on the heater when the temperature drops below 5 degrees (i.e. prevent the water from freezing), and in my case it starts to heat up at 9-10 degrees. The effect is that I heat my garage almost all the time, even though I don't want to. I have to turn off the valves under the radiator (the ones with a screwdriver), but for such frosts I can't do it for obvious reasons, so the radiator is working at its best all the time. Temp. at the heater 7-8 degrees. I have 2 more rooms in which I do not heat (the heaters are the same, but they have a different type of thermostat insert and the same heads) and the heads twisted per min (i.e. snowflake) and the heaters do not turn on at all. Now at these frosts the temperature at the heater is 6 degrees. that is OK. And the one in the garage is warm. I changed the heads, so it's not the head's fault. Could the pre-setting of the valve have any impact on the operation of the head, but if so, what. I was also wondering if the type of this insert was thermostatic. it may have some meaning, in other words, whether the head fits this type of valve, but when I replaced the radiators throughout the house, I bought everything together with the heads and they assured me that these heads fit the radiators I bought.
Does anyone know why this heater heats despite the skeleton head at MIN and the ambient temperature of 8 degrees?

In fact, as I wrote earlier, the temperature in all these unheated rooms is the same. The heads are the same. All Kermi radiators are bottom feed. There is type V11 in the garage and in other rooms. economy V22. And only in the garage the heater heats up and the worst thing is that it just heats up quite a bit. In these other pom. economy when the head opens the valve, it does it for a short time and the radiator is only slightly warm and only on a small area, right next to the valve. So in my opinion "sniezynka" works as it is supposed to work. However, in this garage there is a different type of heater and it is unfortunate that they have put on some other thermostatic insert. Now I read it carefully and there are 0 markings there; 1; 4 and K6.
Well, it does not change the fact that the valve setting does not affect the work of the head (at least in my opinion). So it looks like the valve is broken.
However, I have the impression that the head is twisted into a snowflake, the quality does not press the valve pin enough enough. Will the planting (I read that some put coins) under the heads work? I mean, I do not mean whether it will turn off the heater (because I will check it), but will I have a frost-free heater, will my head turn it on as it needs to?

Place the thermometer on the floor next to this thermostat, then you will find out whether it is the thermostat's fault or the temperature drops lower than you think.

Temp. I measured in different ways to be sure it's OK. I don't keep the thermometer on the radiator, if that's what you mean. I have such a laboratory thermometer -5 / + 40 graduated every 1 degree. In addition, I keep a car in the garage and an external temperature sensor there. shows the same as the thermometer, so there is probably no mistake.
Well, it looks like this valve is not closing, but I wonder why it is not closing yet. When it was warmer (e.g. +5) and I had the heating on, the radiator did not heat up. And yet the thermostatic valve has nothing to do with temperature, only the head. It is just as cold in the second room and the heater does not turn on at all, and then only a little and for a while, and this reptile keeps warm.

This valve has no initial setting, I unscrewed it, it's just a choke, the problem is that the valves you write about grow over time and do not respond after several years of use, in my opinion, the mushroom has become overgrown, which made it immobilized and you just need to replace the valve, replacing the head will not do anything here greetings (possibly some fern came under the heads and lets go a little

Apparently they have a pre-setting and you can adjust the Kv with these inserts, at least this is what the manufacturer of the radiators says. I know the head is good because I changed it to another Comap and borrowed Heimeier from my brother and it does not do anything. In general, this type of insert sucks, because it has a short part with a key (to unscrew the valve from the radiator), which makes it difficult to attach the head, because it rests on the protruding hexagon. I still have the same insert in one radiator, but bad luck just wants the radiator in the bathroom (I have an ordinary radiator, not a bathroom one) and there is no place to put the head on and check how it behaves because the wall does not let go.
Well, I think I need to replace this valve, or maybe the frosts will end, I just close the valves under the radiator (then it does not heat up anymore ...)
Nevertheless, I still do not understand why the heater does not heat as in the garage, let's say it is 11 degrees, and it starts to heat when it is 9. And it is supposed to heat, it means not to heat, but only open when it will be 6. Because these Comap heads are from 6-30 degrees, although in one room (I recently measured it was 6 degrees) and the radiator is not open yet, although you can already notice that the valve is letting something through from time to time ...

tighten the valve more tightly

Does anyone know how to set this valve correctly. It looks like this:


With this stuffing box, which matti890 wrote about, you can regulate the opening-closing of the radiator, so the valve is probably working. When you turn this gland to the right, the radiator closes and vice versa, so it is probably OK here. If you unscrew too much water drips, so it looks like this stuffing box is replaceable. There is a white dot on the valve body, and red paint on the stuffing box and body and 0, 1, 4, K6 markings. It looks like it is for initial setting ...
The problem appears to be in the cooperation of the head with this valve. I noticed that when I close the heads, it starts to press the spindle only somewhere from 2, higher settings do not regulate the valve.
The head is like this:


Maybe everything is working, only someone played with the valve and adjusted it. How to set it up? How many turns to unscrew the gland from the body and what do these numerical markings and white and red paint dots mean?

Kermi says for this radiator. It is type V11 400/1400, the presetting is 2.5 which corresponds to Kv = 0.27.

Added after 21 [minutes]:

Oh, I forgot to add that I put a coin between the spindle of the head and the spindle of the valve to check that the head is not tightening the valve too much. It does nothing. It is still the same. Because I am also wondering if the head (Comap S1 connection to the valve with the M30x1.5 thread) is suitable for this valve. On Honeywell's website I read that there are thermostatic valves with different so-called the closing dimension. There are e.g. closure dimensions of 11.5 mm and 9.5 mm. In a side view, this is the distance from the end of the depressed valve stem to the valve body (not the packing). Accordingly, there are also different heads. From what I measured with a caliper it is 11.5, just like on other valves, so it looks good, but I'm not sure so I ask. Maybe someone knows about all of this, or has been doing something like that. I would like to add that they do not have a vague idea about it in the stores with heating parts. You can't even buy this valve cap so that you can regulate it with a valve instead of a head

Thanks to Krzych,
So I have to unscrew the entire insert to get to this gasket, or just the stuffing box (because I think it's unscrewed)? After unscrewing and re-screwing in, do you need to seal this valve somehow (e.g. thread with Teflon tape), or is there a gasket? I am asking because I have not yet twisted the valve insert And I would like to know before and be prepared for possible surprises.
I will have to fight it, because for a new liner they want about PLN 50 in the store and you have to wait until the new year, because there is no. There are a lot of valves and there are no inserts. There are no spare parts for the inserts at all, it looks as if they were unrepairable elements.
Do you know how to properly adjust this cartridge?
greet

I read the initial setting from the Kermi catalog, for this heater it should be 2.5, which corresponds to Kv = 0.27. I've mentioned this in previous posts.
I meant how to set it to 2.5 on this valve. Where is the reference point (is it the white dot or the red one) and what about the scale on the choke. Where is it 2.5 if there is some strange scale: 0 1 K6 4, or 0 4 K6 1. So where on this scale is 2.5 or e.g. 3 ???
On other valves (the better ones - they are called V3K) there is a clear scale 1,2,3,4,5,6 and a clearly marked reference point on the valve body as a distinct incision. And on these valves I know how to set the initial setting, for example 2.5; 3; 5.5 etc. But not on this valve.

Change the valves to the ones you know and it won't be a problem.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Or move this "faulty valve to the bottom position. (Swap with return)

J. Kleban wrote:

Change the valves to the ones you know and it won't be a problem.

I also figured it out, you could even replace the entire radiator, but I thought I would take and turn off the one I have and the head would turn it on so that the water would not freeze. I figured I didn't mean much, but I can see there's a problem with that.
I will unscrew the valve after Christmas, and I will knock on it and these seals as Krzychu advised.

J. Kleban wrote:

Or move this "faulty valve to the bottom position. (Swap with return)

I don't know what you mean. This is a bottom feed radiator, as I wrote earlier. There is a shut-off unit on the return and supply:
http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/poland/ecatdata/pg_v2495.html

greet

I looked at the photo and valves from the last link and something does not suit me here.
Can you insert a photo of a particular radiator with connection and thermostat?
The photo shows that the thermostat is connected to one of the upper inputs to the radiator, not to the valve.
You have the bottom supply as you write, so how does this thermostat regulate the flow?
Does the radiator have any unusual flow transitions?
Taking into account standard radiators and their connections, your thermostat is connected to the vent where there is no valve.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

To be honest I am a little shocked by this.
At first glance, it looks OK, but when I could not find the supply tube after you stated that it was the bottom supply, I thought I got nystagmus :-)

Added after 2 [minutes]:

If you don't get what I'm talking about, I will add that the thermostatic head should be screwed to the valve and not directly to the radiator.

J. Kleban wrote:

... to be honest I am a little shocked by this.
At first glance, it looks OK, but when I could not find the supply tube after you stated that it was the bottom supply, I thought I got nystagmus ...

Hello, have you never seen a radiator like this?

Honestly, I haven't seen it :-(

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Does anyone have his picture on the other side?

J. Kleban wrote:

... Does anyone have his picture on the other side?

And there may be a cross-section:

Thanks for the photo !
I see that I have been left behind
But that's nothing, a man learns all his life and dies stupid.