Replace Danfoss 3120 Thermostatic Head: Compatible Alternatives without Changing Valve

I have danfoss thermostatic heads as in the picture. One looks dead - it does not regulate the flow depending on the temperature, it only gives the maximum flow all the time. Inserting the head from another room and the adjustment is correct.

From what I can see, danfoss no longer produces this head, so the question is - what / which danfoss head can be replaced so as not to have to change the thermostatic valve itself?



http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9374/imgyx.jpg

ps. ok i found it is danfoss 3120?

3/8 or 1/2" threads are important and no problem.

Quote:

From what I can see, Danfoss no longer produces this head

Calm down, they produce but they have changed shape.

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In place of the old one, as in your photo, I installed heads that are normally available in stores.

Quote:

as a curiosity, I will tell you that it is mounted incorrectly - it should be horizontal

You're right, it's not right! If it was right, it would have been broken a long time ago.
Sometimes the building conditions force such assembly. It is just in the bathroom.
But it works fine, that's all I can say.
I will add that before that it was identical to the one in the picture of a friend.

a bit off-topic I have a question, but I have the same heads as shown by arekm and I'm wondering what this thin ring with a dot around the danfoss logo is for?

krzysio_sr wrote:

... (as a curiosity, I will tell you that it is mounted incorrectly - it should be horizontal)

Put these photos on "Joyful creativity..." I don't think it's your work

I have the same head on the radiators as in the photo, for many years. I wanted to ask if it can be set differently, turned up to make the room warmer? It is set to max and only 3 ribs are heated (out of 11). actually, how much they heat, but what is the temperature in the room. Well, the room is between 19 and 21 degrees. And at the maximum setting, it should be 26, yes? that it's still a little below zero, most of the ribs are cold, and even those that heat are so-so.
I called a specialist from the cooperative, he unscrewed the head, set something, said it was nonsense that it should be 26 degrees when it was turned on, and went. is damaged? But in the great frosts, it warmed up properly. Could I remove the head myself (how?) And regulate it? Please help.

Hello,

I have a similar problem I have RTD-N15 valves (013L3713) and I would like to know what heads will fit there? I already know that 3100, 3600, 4230, 3130 and 2945 is it true? I would like to know what other danfoss heads would fit? (and the head 013X3993?)

greetings and waiting for information

Hello,

I'm refreshing the topic because I have a pretty serious problem with these Danfoss.


Namely, I have some strange valves that you can see in the picture.



Two types of thermostats were mounted to them (probably?) This one here is without a gas sensor (or they were broken off and I don't know if it can be checked somehow)



And thermostats with a gas sensor, of which I know that two are bank damaged because the cables stick out from them.



Now my questions are as follows:

1. What can I mount on these valves, and what kind of valve is it?
2. Does breaking the gas sensor result in the fact that the radiator works non-stop at full power?
3. What is the type of thermostats, marking, etc.?

I will be very grateful for any help.

Annnka wrote:

I have the same head on the radiators as in the photo, for many years. I wanted to ask if it can be set differently, turned up to make the room warmer? It is set to max and only 3 ribs are heated (out of 11). actually, it's about how much they heat, but what is the temperature in the room. Well, the room is between 19 and 21 degrees. And at the maximum setting, it should be 26, right?

If the radiator has 11 ribs and 3 are heating (probably the ones closest to the twigs), it means that it is probably AIR. It is necessary to vent the radiator or the entire installation. Poor heating can also be caused by a wrong pre-setting of "crimping". After removing the thermostatic head, there is a setting ring (brass) on the valve that can be turned even with a finger. There are numbers from 1 to 7 and the letter N on it. The higher the number, the greater the flow of water through the valve, and therefore the stronger the heating. Setting it to 1 (and even to 2) is inadvisable, as it can easily lead to siltation of the throttled valve. You need to give a slightly higher setting (but so that the tenants living on the upper floors also have heat). If you live on the top floor, you can successfully set it to 7. Setting N is full flow (as if without orifice) and is basically used to flush the valve and radiator (if set in this way, a higher flow will flush the valve with silt). Weak flow is manifested by the fact that all the ribs heat up, but poorly and only at the very top (and they are cold at the bottom), while aeration means that only those elements that are closest to the twigs heat, and the others are cold.
Speaking of other posts, the thermostatic head should be mounted HORIZONTALLY. Vertical assembly not only shortens its durability, but (mainly) may interfere with its proper operation.

Ricardo290366 wrote:

3/8 or 1/2" threads are important and no problem

Are different. Danfoss thermostatic valves are manufactured not only in 3/8' and 1/2' (the most common), but also in 3/4' and 1'. By the way, I once pasted a chart of Danfoss valves capacity depending on the initial setting ("clamping") to the Forum.

how to remove this head (what type) and possibly what to replace it with?

Gives the number of the latest model head (suitable for the RTD-n valve), it is RA/RTD 2945 (013G2945)

This is the guest's statement and I completely confirm it. This is the only Danfos head that fits RTD-N valves instead of the old 3600 and Everis and look for it in stores.

The answer concerns the valve, and the question is about the head - how to remove it?

If it is an Everis, turn it to 5 and unscrew the nut (horizontal) counterclockwise as normal. She has no strength not to go. If the test is Inova, then somewhere around the perimeter of this nut there is a pin to be unscrewed with a 3 or 4 allen key.

apple4poland wrote:

Hello,

I'm refreshing the topic because I have a pretty serious problem with these danfoss.


Namely, I have some strange valves that you can see in the picture.



Two types of thermostats were mounted to them (probably?) This one here is without a gas sensor (or they were broken off and I don't know if it can be checked somehow)



And thermostats with a gas sensor, of which I know that two are bank damaged because the cables stick out from them.



Now my questions are as follows:

1. What can I mount on these valves, and what kind of valve is it?
2. Does breaking the gas sensor result in the fact that the radiator works non-stop at full power?
3. What is the type of thermostats, marking, etc.?

I will be very grateful for any help.

So after
1. you can install the danfoss Ravis RA 2945 (013G2945) service head, but note that it is more difficult to access, more expensive and ugly (in my opinion), there is also a replacement 6001-00005 Schlosser head replacement for danfoss

Hello. I have a radiator in the kitchen with a Danfoss RTD3100 head, which is turned off all the time - the apartment is warm and small, I only use radiators in 2 rooms. The problem is that it interferes with the installation of the dishwasher. I have 2 options - vertical installation of the head (can it be done during the heating period?) or removing it completely, but what to do so that the radiator does not heat then?

Thanks for your suggestions, regards.

THE HEAD SHOULD NOT BE VERTICAL, as it will wear out faster and may malfunction. It is possible to completely remove the head, but to turn off the heating (so that this particular radiator does not heat) you need to screw the appropriate cap on the valve (usually they are red in color) and to turn off the heating you just need to tighten the cap as much as possible. The correct installation of the thermostatic head is HORIZONTAL.

Hello,
At the beginning of :
I had these heads and valves for them "in my hands" and before I installed them at home I got acquainted with their construction and principle of operation.

And now in order:
1) These heads are nothing more than thermostats. In some cases, the factor that causes the opening and closing of the valve is gas (which, under the influence of temperature at constant pressure, increases its volume and, by moving the piston, regulates the flow of the CO factor, and in others, metal (metals) which, under the influence of heat, also change volume and press the piston more or less ;
2) The head from a vertical installation (vertical) is rather unlikely to be damaged (all materials from which it is made can easily withstand the temperature of 100 ° C without changing their properties).
3) Thermostatic heads in which the metal/bimetal moves the piston should be mounted horizontally, because the metal/bimetal is heated/cooled by convection and it is necessary to ensure a sufficiently large stream of air flowing around the regulating element to react quickly to temperature changes. When mounted vertically, the air flow is limited and the thermoregulators operate with a very long delay (the air at the thermoregulators moves vertically (from bottom to top).
4) I also do not think that for the valve itself (which is regulated by the head), vertical or horizontal assembly has any significance in terms of durability.

Unfortunately, the red caps fall off for me, I have valves without threads. A plumber from the cooperative visited me today, looked at me, kissed me and said; "I won't do anything about it." He will not turn the valve vertically because it is too tight and he is afraid that it will not break, he will not remove the head permanently - he said that the head secures the stem in the valve so that it does not come out under pressure, because sometimes it happens (apparently). When asked if I can secure the pin myself with a band (so that it is pressed in), he said that I will do it at my own risk, but did not say whether it is possible from a technical point of view. You can?

Hello

I bought a Thermostat for CLARUS HT-5594 radiator, but I cannot fit any adapter to my Danfoss RTD-N valve. This is quite a popular valve and most apartments in my city are equipped with it. Should any of the adapters added to the set fit or would I need to buy another one? In the attachment I am sending a photo of the valve I have, a photo of the previous Danfoss thermostat and the CLARUS thermostat. I can add a photo of the adapters at another time. (according to the instructions, adapters are included: RA, RAV, RAVL, Herz)

Regards

And the valve that is in the picture and which is very popular in housing cooperatives is the RTD-N valve. This is the predecessor of the RA-N valve, for which you probably have an adapter. Unfortunately, Danfoss has concocted this RTD-N so much that you won't be able to match it very well.

On Allegro, this clarus thermostat is already 34.99.
http://allegro....

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Question to Pablo_P-ce. And how did you manage to mount this Clarus on the RTD-N valve? Because I have the same problem.

Gentlemen, where to get red caps for closing thermostatic valves? Due to renovation in the apartment, I have to take off the radiators. I took the heads off, the valves are RTDs. I asked in several stores and they all say that these caps can only be purchased with valves. They do not occur on their own, and buying a valve for the cap does not make sense.
And if you can't buy a cap, is there another way to close the valves without one?