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Securing American 110V Device for European 230V Network: Longevity & Protection Measures

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #31 8130921
    deksta84
    Level 24  
    Oh, I'm sorry. I haven't noticed the dates of the last posts.
    In fact, a new power supply is enough. Let my colleague Choinka_1863 write the designation of this stove. Maybe there will be a diagram and you will know what voltages (not the unfortunate 110V) are needed.
    And I was describing induction motors ... eh
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  • #32 8131500
    choinka_1863
    Level 10  
    The amplifier is a Peavey Classic 50 W, on the back it says 120VAC, 60 Hz, 200 WATTS. I heard that it should be an external transformer rather than an autotransformer (due to the fact that it has separate secondary and primary windings) and that it should have a power reserve.

    I think there is a diagram here, I do not know how useful it is.
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  • #35 8133400
    deksta84
    Level 24  
    The case is as follows:
    The diagram does not show the power supply of the triodes anodes (I conclude, after the documentation of the 12AX7 tube, no more than 100V). Create a new post with the title: Peavey Classic 50 W / 230V / 50Hz power converter. Or see if anyone else has submitted it before.
    When someone has an export version (230V), they can measure these B + and B ++ voltages and the current in the RR secondary winding, sharing the same information important for building a converter that would be inserted instead of the mains transformer. The current topic of the post is unattractive. However, this stove is one of the popular amplifiers.
    I updated the link with a more readable diagram.
    Regards.
  • #36 8276678
    emroth
    Level 10  
    I have the STAX SRM-3 headphone amplifier designed to operate on 110,117,220,240V voltages. Currently, it is set to 117V.

    After opening the housing, my eyes saw a transformer with mains voltage wires soldered to the entire primary voltage, not only half as it usually happens. (of course the voltage goes through the switch and the fuse)

    Additionally, on the side of the primary winding there are 3 pairs of pins marked 0, 120 and 100 - in this case pins 0 to 0 and 120 to 120 are connected.

    I suspect that to convert the amplifier to 220/240 V I have to remove these 2 jumpers from the secondary winding - am I right? What should I check?
  • #37 9662882
    vinetu00
    Level 1  
    Hello.
    A long time ago not discussed topic, but maybe someone will write back :)
    I have a lamp from the USA, powered by 120V (at least that's what it says on the input). The fluorescent lamp is FCL22D / 21 here a more detailed description http://us.100y.com.tw/PNoInfo/57983.htm
    Equipped with the FG1E primer here for a more detailed description http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/FG1E.htm.
    The ballast seems ok to me because when connected to a transformer (110V 1500W) it has about 113V at the output.

    The problem is that their attention was connected to the 230V power supply, the lamp only lit and then went out for a moment.
    Now the question is what could have been damaged, is it maybe a ballast, maybe a starter or the fluorescent lamp itself?
    The point is that I do not smile to list all these elements one by one, because they are very difficult to find and I do not know what replacements I can use.
  • #38 11722788
    jurek84
    Level 22  
    Let me refresh the topic a bit:
    I have several 110V / 19W fans and I would like to run them on our network. Would it be enough to plug in a 20W resistor in series?
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  • #39 11723147
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #40 11723290
    Świr
    Level 34  
    Bronek22 wrote:
    Trafo or autotrafo reduces the voltage without loss.


    Lossy, but with greater efficiency.
  • #41 11724998
    deksta84
    Level 24  
    Connect in pairs in series.
    Measure the voltage on each fan.
    It's best to "pair" them.
  • #42 11725036
    Świr
    Level 34  
    And wouldn't it be easier to use a transformer with the symbol TS 20/035?
  • #43 11725913
    jurek84
    Level 22  
    Świr wrote:
    And wouldn't it be easier to use a transformer with the symbol TS 20/035?


    I was thinking about it too. How is it different from TS 20/110?
  • #44 11726199
    Świr
    Level 34  
    TS 20/110 EI 60/29 110.0 0.18
    TS 20/035 EI 60/20 115.0 0.17

    Where in turn:
    Symbol, core type, secondary voltage, secondary current.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around connecting American 110V devices to a European 230V network, focusing on the longevity and protection measures for such devices. Key considerations include the use of transformers to step down voltage, the impact of frequency differences (60Hz in the US vs. 50Hz in Europe), and potential issues with motor speed and torque. Participants suggest using thermal protection and fuses for safety, while also discussing the importance of ensuring that devices can operate at the lower frequency without damage. Concerns are raised about the compatibility of various appliances, particularly those with motors, and the necessity of using appropriate transformers to avoid damaging sensitive electronics. Recommendations include purchasing specialized transformers and ensuring devices are rated for the correct voltage and frequency.
Summary generated by the language model.
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