Car Won't Rev, No Power: Possible Causes After Replacing Filters and Spark Plugs

Hello,
The car doesn't rev, no power, can't be driven. It starts normally the first time. sometimes it is OK, but more often it does not develop power. I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter, MV wires, spark plugs. I had a case when after 200 km it was impossible to drive - it was shooting at the gasser or muffler, and when it cooled down (the next day) it was as if it went away. But it happens again and again and I don't know what it could be.

Is the car a resktor or another toy?

State what kind of car it is (type model year)

I would check the pressure in the cylinders because maybe the engine is out of whack

Or maybe the manual cable has rusted.

To diag: it's not a scooter it's a bike with pedals - do you understand the subtext ?

To leinadzs: Daihatsu Charade 1.3 16V 89r, gasser

My bets are on the ignition coil or the ignition module , but I would favour the former .

I was also thinking about the coil, but how to check it, a new one is an expense of about 250zl, and if it's not that?

Does it shoot as you wrote in the carburettor or muffler or did you find it so
on a cast, and in fact it always fires in one place only?
Is the ignition still distributor ignition (ignition switch with a finger), or is it so-called static ignition without an ignition switch?
I had such a case once, but it was caused by accidental blocking of the rocker arms (it can also be the case with a seized valve) when the engine was quite warm.

[quote="erfro"]To diag: it's not a scooter it's a bike with pedals - do you understand the subtext ?

To Erfro
It is more likely that you did not understand the subtext....
Here you can expect such answers as you give information, if you talk about the fact that your car broke down and you ask for help, colleagues will treat you with a pinch of salt ...
Describe the problem as accurately as possible, first read about similar problems on the forum, and if you do not find the answer then ask...
There are already many topics on the forum and sometimes it is enough to think ...
Greetings
DArek.

I'm 99% sure it's the muffler, although when I took the gasser apart the air filter was burnt, so I thought it was the gasser too.
I've been to 5 mechanics already, but none of them could come up with anything, because the car is running and this fault appears when you least expect it, so I've always been OK at the mechanics.
The ignition unit is normal.

"I had a case like this once, but it was due to accidental blocking of the rocker arms (this can also be the case with a seized valve) when the engine was not too hot."
Regarding the valves, I also went to the mechanic - he stated that everything is Ok. And how to determine if these valve levers are accidentally blocking?
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To Dar_bob:

Hello,
Well I don't quite agree with you, because I have a specific problem that even car mechanics can't deal with. They don't know what it is because it manifests itself from time to time. That is why I am asking you all, maybe someone knows something about it.
Asking "is it a resorach?" is just a question to score points. If the guy is a car expert, then let him be specific, or let him not speak. I don't need such comments.


You use the "edit" button to edit your posts.
I have merged the posts.
ankuch.

Shooting in the muffler generally indicates a delayed ignition, here look for reasons, maybe the instrument cluster is already out of order and delays you when increasing rpm.
(it delays, i.e. it does not accelerate, normally at high revs the mechanical calipers and vacuum in the intake pipe will give even 10 degrees of acceleration, if the calipers are faulty, or the vacuum does not work then there will be no acceleration) and hence combustion occurs already when the exhaust valves open and you can hear it "banging in the pipe."

As far as the valve lifters are concerned, if a tappet is seized, it is not like "it goes on and off".
Take off the valve cover and run the starter without wires on the spark plugs, this way you can check if all the valves are working and the condition of the rocker arms and tappets (no pitting on the walls).
Darek.

Thanks Dar_bob ,
concrete answer, I'll check it out.
And one more thing - every now and then I seem to get the ignition out of tune. I set it and drive a few hundred kilometres and it seems that there is something wrong with the ignition. When I adjust it again, it seems to drive better. Could this be the result of what you wrote?

Exactly!!!!
You have given the answer yourself. The ignition unit must be in a bad condition, the clearances it has, cause that on the scale of 360 degrees of rotation there is not exactly the point of ignition every 1 degree, so that sometimes the contacts of the unit open in one point, sometimes in another. Check if the cams on the camera axis are all the same (height) and if the gap on the interrupter is the same size on all 4 cams. Also, the weights I have written about have to spread evenly, if one of the springs holding them breaks, there will be a beating during rotation and you will never set the gap on the interrupter correctly.
Generally you need to be sure of the point of ignition to eliminate one of the many causes of muffler firing.
If the instrument cluster is in order and it still fires in the muffler, it could be a problem with the support of the exhaust valve. But that's a topic for another tale....
Darek.

Firstly, the Charada1.3 16v is penny injected and does not have a carburettor
Secondly there is no interrupter, I checked it myself
Thirdly, the coil is from Polonez with modular ignition, it is just a matter of proper connection.

Added after 1 [minute]:

Go to www.charade.pl there on the forum I'm sure someone will help you.

Maybe the exhaust is just stuck, unplug it before the catalytic converter and check it.