Identifying Correct Connection of Safety Valve in Lemet 80 L Boiler

Hello.
I would like to make sure that I have properly connected the Lemet 80 L boiler to the water installation.



For the first time, I attached the safety valve directly under the cold water inlet (right under the therma), but the boiler was buzzing quite intensively, most often when taking cold water (but from the tap). After installing the safety valve at the cold water supply pipe, the problem disappeared, but today the therma gurgled very loudly.

Are there any reasons for concern?

Install the safety valve under the boiler as for the first time, not somewhere on the wall in front of the flexible hose. The second thing is you did not confuse the inlet with the outlet to the boiler? If not, the reason for the buzzing noise during water intake is in the bust in the boiler pipe or in a defective safety valve or in a flexible hose or in the installation ...

The valve is installed on the cold water inlet (left). Well, it seems to me that as it is now, it is according to the diagram in the manual, so there can be no mistakes.

Oh, I forgot to add that during this hum (when the valve was under the boiler) the hose was trembling and the sound of the sheet was heard (probably the shaking from the hose was transferred to the boiler) Oh, and it was rumbling even when I did not take water, I think so.

Well, the hoses are new, the valve and the boiler are also, and I will tear in the boiler pipe, should I understand it inside?

Well, since the safety valve. it is in front of the water pipe, nothing happens (except for one intense contraction for the whole day)

I will ask if there are any clear contraindications for it to stay as it is, because it's okay.

There are contraindications: in the event of a thermostat and temperature regulator failure, the heater can start heating without interruption, unlimited by the above-mentioned devices, which I have dealt with once in 30 years, and the pressure in the hose can tear it, especially when it gets a bit old, before the safety valve is activated. . and you will have a great deluge instead of a small leak from the safety valve ... New valves can also hum, because they have a valve (membrane) that lets water in and prevents it from leaking in the opposite direction ... and each product of this type can under certain conditions be a trumpet ... Check if this valve, although it is new, whether it holds water in the boiler, whether it does not drip from it when you deprive it of the cold water supply from the hose ... valve or try mounting the hose the wrong way round, or a different hose. If it is rumbling when the tap water is not being taken, the new valve may not hold back pressure - check as I wrote above by unscrewing the hose with cold water from the valve when the valve is correctly fitted right under the boiler, whether water is pouring from it ... yes, it's a new valve to be replaced ... which also happened to me once ... PS. The direction of water flow at a certain point at a right angle with such a narrowing (connector type) may also cause loud operation of the circuit on the border of a fixed and flexible installation ... I would avoid right angles ... take out any hemp dust or metal rust that may cause vibrations in the installation - that's all - good luck ...

In fact, the valve does not hold water. When I mention it, I will let you know. I forgot to add that the cold water hose is warm and the hot water hose is quite cold (when we don't take the water), which is a bit strange.

It is not strange. The reason for this is the difference and the absence of a pressure difference. The pressure difference causes the hot water to flow towards the cold one, and the pressure balance does not flow, so when we do not take water, the outflow is so-so - colder than the water in the boiler. A warm hose or cold water inlet pipe on both sides of the safety valve is a symptom of a bad safety valve as well as a rumble in the absence of water consumption, because hot water increases its volume in the boiler and the pressure returns hot water through the safety valve to the cold pipe where it is the pressure is much lower and the safety valve should not allow it. On the other hand, the hot water hose will be colder when we do not take water, because the pressure in it is the same as in the boiler all the time because there are no check valves, so there is no such flow as in the direction of the cold water supply, which has a pressure much lower than hot water, hence there is more space for hot water returned to the cold supply, especially during the day, it is noticed when the pressure in the line is lower at all due to water consumption by many users in the city, for example, and less noticeable in a private house ... Touching the water supply is how old non-holding valves are diagnosed, especially in the morning or when the water has not been taken from the tap for a long time - as it turns out, also new valves do not hold ... Therefore, you see, the safety valve must fulfill two roles, not to allow reverse flow aw in case of a simultaneous failure of the thermostat and the temperature regulator, drop some hot water sideways so that the boiler does not become a bomb, i.e. reduce the pressure therefore it must be installed right under the boiler so that the pressure does not increase in the hose, which are not long-lasting! Also once in my life I saw the effects of a boiler bursting - half of the house blew up ... Therefore, you must not give up the thermostat under the boiler and the temperature regulator, I hope that your new boiler has these two independent electrical protections in working order ...

It is also worth installing an expansion vessel that will take over the "expansion" of the water when heated and prevent the valve from rumbling