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Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #31 17882367
    111111
    Level 12  
    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?
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  • #32 17882403
    kamilo23
    Level 22  
    111111 wrote:
    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?


    Tooth stop.


    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    Rycho T wrote:
    Yes, but this wire-hair does not heat the chain, it only makes it difficult for the guide bar to penetrate the wood.

    Yes, you are right, but plunging is not that difficult either, as long as the chain is properly sharpened and cuts the wood straight, not "like a sausage". Chain teeth, kerf, are much wider than the bar thickness. Blocking the guide bar in the kerf most often causes a bad sharpening of the chain and the saw "wants to cut diagonally" and then blocks the guide bar. :D


    It makes it difficult if your guide bar is worn and the guide link touches the bottom of the guide bar groove. You can see it by worn links.
  • #33 17882566
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    kamilo23 wrote:
    11111 wrote:
    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?
    Tooth stop.

    Not.
    The limiter is an element of the chain link that "maintains" the appropriate cutting thickness, as the chain is sharpened, it should also be properly sawed to ensure the correct thickness. Wire, hair, etc. other names are such "flattening", a sharp edge on the bar's edge, which is formed during the operation and friction of the chain. Read, watch videos about deburring the guide, you will understand what's going on. And when you work with the saw for a long time and "feel" the guide on its edge, you will understand what is "going on".

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0GtGe4Uhys

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    kamilo23 wrote:
    It makes it difficult if your guide bar is worn and the guide link touches the bottom of the guide bar groove. You can see it by worn links.

    Maybe you are right, but in my case it has never happened that the chain "traveled" to such an extent with links leading on the bottom of the guide bar that it made it difficult to work. The guide bar was always replaced when it showed a high degree of wear.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around issues with a Stihl MS 171 chainsaw, specifically regarding poor cutting performance, overheating of the chain and guide bar, and the effectiveness of sharpening and lubrication. Users suggest that the chain may be the wrong type or worn out, and emphasize the importance of proper sharpening techniques and chain tension. The guide bar's condition is also highlighted, with recommendations to check for wear and to rotate it to assess performance. Concerns about the chain's rapid dulling and the potential need for replacement are discussed, alongside the significance of using appropriate oil and maintaining correct lubrication. The conversation concludes with a consensus that if the chain and lubrication are adequate, the guide bar likely needs replacement due to wear.
Summary generated by the language model.
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