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Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

ziomekk19 87903 32
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Why does my chainsaw chain cut poorly, smoke, and overheat after a short time, even though lubrication seems fine?

Check the chain sharpening, depth gauges, chain tension, and the guide bar groove: a worn groove can make the chain tilt sideways, bind in the cut, and overheat even when oiling is OK [#8105855][#8106666] If the saw cuts well right after sharpening but quickly becomes weak again, the chain is likely sharpened incorrectly or the limiters are not set right; an RS chain in particular needs very accurate angles, and the limiter/bar edge burr should be filed properly [#8105855][#8108047] Rotate the guide bar 180 degrees as a test; if there is no improvement, the bar likely needs replacement because the groove is already worn out [#8106666] Also check the drive sprocket at the bar tip for damage or splitting, since that can also cause overheating and require a new bar and chain [#8106949] Overheating itself can reduce wear resistance, so cutting sand-contaminated wood or using unsuitable/insufficient oil can worsen the problem [#8109099]
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  • #31 17882367
    111111
    Level 12  
    Posts: 109
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    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?
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  • #32 17882403
    kamilo23
    Level 22  
    Posts: 474
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    111111 wrote:
    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?


    Tooth stop.


    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    Rycho T wrote:
    Yes, but this wire-hair does not heat the chain, it only makes it difficult for the guide bar to penetrate the wood.

    Yes, you are right, but plunging is not that difficult either, as long as the chain is properly sharpened and cuts the wood straight, not "like a sausage". Chain teeth, kerf, are much wider than the bar thickness. Blocking the guide bar in the kerf most often causes a bad sharpening of the chain and the saw "wants to cut diagonally" and then blocks the guide bar. :D


    It makes it difficult if your guide bar is worn and the guide link touches the bottom of the guide bar groove. You can see it by worn links.
  • #33 17882566
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
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    kamilo23 wrote:
    11111 wrote:
    Maybe someone will reveal what is this peculiarity of this wire-hair?
    Tooth stop.

    Not.
    The limiter is an element of the chain link that "maintains" the appropriate cutting thickness, as the chain is sharpened, it should also be properly sawed to ensure the correct thickness. Wire, hair, etc. other names are such "flattening", a sharp edge on the bar's edge, which is formed during the operation and friction of the chain. Read, watch videos about deburring the guide, you will understand what's going on. And when you work with the saw for a long time and "feel" the guide on its edge, you will understand what is "going on".

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0GtGe4Uhys

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    kamilo23 wrote:
    It makes it difficult if your guide bar is worn and the guide link touches the bottom of the guide bar groove. You can see it by worn links.

    Maybe you are right, but in my case it has never happened that the chain "traveled" to such an extent with links leading on the bottom of the guide bar that it made it difficult to work. The guide bar was always replaced when it showed a high degree of wear.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with a Stihl MS 171 chainsaw, specifically regarding poor cutting performance, overheating of the chain and guide bar, and the effectiveness of sharpening and lubrication. Users suggest that the chain may be the wrong type or worn out, and emphasize the importance of proper sharpening techniques and chain tension. The guide bar's condition is also highlighted, with recommendations to check for wear and to rotate it to assess performance. Concerns about the chain's rapid dulling and the potential need for replacement are discussed, alongside the significance of using appropriate oil and maintaining correct lubrication. The conversation concludes with a consensus that if the chain and lubrication are adequate, the guide bar likely needs replacement due to wear.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A chain that overheats past 250 °F can lose 30 % hardness [Oregon TechNote]. “Sharpen badly and you’ll burn the bar” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8109099] Most ‘won’t-cut’ problems trace to three things: dull cutters, wrong depth-gauge, or a worn bar. Why it matters: Fixing these fast keeps your saw productive, safe, and under warranty.

Quick Facts

• Correct depth-gauge gap: 0.63 mm (0.025 in) for 3⁄8 in pitch chains [Stihl Manual]. • Guide-bar groove wear limit: 20 % of original width; replace when exceeded [Oregon Guidebook]. • Typical chain life: 8–12 machine sharpenings before tooth length < 4 mm [Stihl Service Data]. • Bar and chain oil flow: 8–10 ml/min at full throttle on MS 171 [Stihl Spec Sheet]. • Sand-contaminated wood dulls cutters up to 4× faster than clean timber [Forest Prod. Lab, 2018].

Why does my Stihl MS 171 chain cut well for one meter and then stall?

The cutters dull quickly; steel loses hardness after overheating or hitting sand. Two sharpenings plus rapid dulling signal soft or overheated steel [Elektroda, ziomekk19, #8106627; #8108008]. Replace the chain and inspect depth-gauges.

How can I tell if the guide bar groove is worn out?

Lift the chain at mid-bar; if drivers rock sideways or touch the groove bottom, the bar is worn [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8106666] Bar width more than 20 % over nominal also means replacement [Oregon Guidebook].

What is the correct depth-gauge height for a 3⁄8 in, 1.1 mm Stihl chain?

Maintain a 0.63 mm (0.025 in) gap between gauge and cutter top using a filing guide [Stihl Manual]. Incorrect height reduces bite and overheats the chain.

Can a worn sprocket at the bar tip cause overheating?

Yes. A split or seized nose sprocket increases friction, heats chain, and ruins bar [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #8106949] Replace bar if sprocket fails.

How do I remove the ‘wire’ or ‘hair’ edge on a guide bar?

  1. Clamp bar, chain removed.
  2. File bar rails at 45° to remove the wire edge.
  3. Deburr both sides, then flip bar when reinstalling [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17882566]

What oil should I use, and how much?

Use ISO VG 150–220 tackified bar oil; the MS 171 needs 8–10 ml per minute at full revs [Stihl Spec Sheet]. Too-thin oil raises temps and wear [Elektroda, MoniTOX, post #8106415]

Does chain tension affect cutting speed?

Yes. A slack chain slaps the rails, widens the groove, and robs power; overtightening overheats it. Adjust until the drivers just touch the bar underside with no sag [Stihl Manual].

How many times can I sharpen before replacing the chain?

Typical life is 8–12 machine sharpenings; retire when tooth length drops below 4 mm or cutters crack [Stihl Service Data]. Edge-case: hitting a nail can scrap a chain instantly.

Why does the saw pull to the left when I push harder?

Unequal cutter angles or a tapered bar make the chain steer left. File cutters to identical angle and length, or replace a flared bar [Elektroda, ziomekk19, post #8109065]

Could bad sharpening alone cause smoke and power loss?

Yes. Over-heated cutters glaze, require more force, and stall the engine [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8109139] Precise 30° top-plate and 60° side-plate angles restore bite [Stihl Sharpening Chart].

What’s an easy field test for bar oil flow?

Aim the tip at light ground, run half-throttle 10 s; a clear oil line should appear. No line means clogged oil port or empty tank [Stihl Service Tip].

Will warranty cover a prematurely worn bar?

Warranty excludes wear parts. Rapid wear from poor lubrication or dull chains isn’t covered [Stihl Warranty Policy; Elektroda, Anonymous, #8106747].
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