Heating 40sqm Space: Electric Boiler & Pump for Water Circulation in 3 Panel Radiators

If you currently need 36kWh to get comfort, then when you change the heating method to radiators, you will also use a similar amount. It seems that even a little more than 36 (as long as you want to maintain the same thermal comfort).
Well, unless you sit on the radiator, then the thermal comfort will be so great that you won't need a lot of energy. But when you get off it, there will be a sharp drop in comfort.

Radiant heaters are generally economical. They heat "illuminated surfaces. They are often used where there is a need to quickly increase thermal comfort.
The heater "sows" around by radiation and by convection. It also heats the wall behind it, it is rather a waste.

Hello.
The topic is a bit old but I am not starting a new one.
The question is whether the 100l boiler and 1500 watt heater will be used for underfloor heating.
There is approx. 130l of water in the floor, the water temperature is approx.
25st.

You need to calculate the daily heat demand in these rooms.
Better write down how much is this floor and what are the walls ...
What has it been heated with so far?
Do you want to use only the 2nd tariff?

I'll start from the beginning.
It is a building under construction, brick porotherm 25 cm.
In days there will be roof insulation and elevation, floors are about 150m2. When it comes to heating with a boiler, it is a temporary solution because the gas will not be available until about September 2017 and now I want to continue with the finishing. Most importantly, I have to heat up the screeds before laying tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, vestibule and hall on the ground floor. All you need to do is heat the floor there because I have another stove that heats well.
Flood and so I think you need the entire flooring.

If you don't keep the entire floor warm, it should be enough for this purpose. Only the pump, apart from the boiler, must be connected.
The capacity of the boiler is less important than the power of the heater in this case.

The heater is 1500W, I remember about the pump, of course, I have everything ready for twisting, only the hoses to connect the installation with the boiler have to be measured and tightened.

Remember that the temperature in the boiler should not be too high. Because it will go to the floor heating.

wnoto wrote:

Remember that the temperature in the boiler should not be too high. Because it will go to the floor heating.

A friend is making jokes?
So much floor heating with one 1500W heater and be careful not to overheat?
Good jokes. After all, it has no right to even heat up a little.

Author: "I have to heat up the screeds before laying tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, vestibule and hall"
It's just a piece of 150m2 ... maybe 20-30m2.
me: "If you don't heat the entire floor, it should be enough for this purpose"

Hello.
I stick to not to create a new topic.
The situation is as follows :
- house approx. 80-90 m2 (to be heated on 2 floors) - insulated.
- Purmo compact heaters (of various sizes - from the largest to the smallest on the market - 8 in total)
- so far heated with a solid fuel boiler, which ... FALLED ....
- in the worst frost, to maintain a decent temperature at home, a temperature of about 52-58 degrees C (at night even 45 degrees C) inside the central heating installation (temperature measured with a sensor on a copper pipe - boiler outlet) was enough.
As it is already cold, I have to quickly find the cheapest (to buy and relatively in use) heating source, I cannot afford a fireplace with a mantle at the moment.
My idea is as follows:
- boiler for heating water 50l - 80l set at 60 ° C (because it costs about 250-350 PLN)
- controller (removed from the boiler), which will manage the pump connected to the installation, forcing the water circulation. I will check if it can be set to be turned on from time to time - depending on the temperature in the house.
I do not have the 2nd tariff, electricity is still "construction", so energy costs me as much at night as during the day.
Question 1 - what do you think?
Question 2 - Will it work?
Question 3 - will the energy cost eat me up?
I will be grateful for your opinion ...

Buddy, I will say that a 100 l boiler with a 1.5kw heater 35-40 m so far 0 outside I got about 20 degrees max. In the configuration of 2 large, one small radiator and a ladder in the bathroom, with other settings either the radiators were cool, or the boiler does not keep up, not much if the wife takes water, it cools down even faster and she also uses it. The temperature ranges from 18.4 to 20, I think if I can configure this installation to have about 22 degrees without a larger heater, on the basis of the controller and time, I will add that the time is probably best because 10 minutes break and pump work 4 min and this is the case if the controller is not warmed up. It turns off completely if it warms up. For me, however, there is a minor problem, because the building has thick walls and the cold is beating everywhere on all sides ... In addition, it is not very isolated, I stuffed cotton wool under the ceilings and the floor, also replacing the window and blocking the door with polystyrene. In general, the idea is great if you have your premises nicely isolated, etc.

I raise the topic
Request for the cost of monthly electricity bills
if there are any applications after years, I am asking for opinions of users of such heating with a heater
thanks in advance

You make interesting combinations with the boiler, but there are a few problems.
1) Even a 100-120 liter boiler will not store too much energy. Quite simply, there is not enough water in the tank. Buffers are usually from 300l for a floor heating (working at low temperature and a buffer at high temperature) to 1000l (and even more for radiators).
2) The 2500W heater is not only a little bit to not only slowly heat the buffer, but also to heat the apartment on an ongoing basis. Assuming that the energy is taken from the buffer around the clock and it is at a rate of 2kWh around 0 degrees outside, it is difficult to build up the energy reserve in the buffer for the daily tariff and to heat the apartment when the demand increases due to frosts.
c) the horizontal boiler is a weak buffer because the water in it mixes quickly.


It follows that, especially for radiators, electric heating from a buffer with accumulation (because only this makes sense when using a buffer) must:
a) have the heaters' heating capacity installed, preferably at least 2 times greater than the maximum hourly demand of the premises. So if, while heating, you have used, for example, 60kWh / day, which gives an average power of 2.5kW, the heaters must be at least 5kW

b) the tank must store enough energy so that the heaters do not need to be turned on in the daily tariff. So either a higher capacity or / and a higher storage temperature of water in the buffer (for radiators operating on 50 degrees of supply this is unfavorable than for the floor heating)

c) you need a mixing installation at the outlet from the buffer, so that when you collect, for example, 300l of water at a temperature of 80 degrees, do not let it go on the radiators, but go on CO, e.g. 50 degrees

d) to use the full energy of the buffer, so that in the half of the working time during the day, while drawing energy from the buffer, there is suddenly no lack of heat from it, the tank (buffer) should be in a vertical arrangement to take advantage of the thermal stratification of the water

The above remarks are generally correct and everyone who plans to heat with a boiler should read them carefully. But in the case of small and very well insulated flats, this solution makes sense. Especially when the central heating installation is already available and it is only about the cheapest possible transition to electricity. Assuming the heater's power of 2.5 kW, the limit heat demand can be determined: up to 5,000 kWh per year. So I would be able to heat my very well insulated hut (80 m2) because that's what I need. Except that during 20-degree frosts, the heater would have to run around the clock. When it is around zero outside, half of the above-mentioned power, i.e. 1.25 kW, is enough. Then you can heat only when electricity is cheap and the surplus is stored in the boiler. I have a G12r tariff in which exactly half a day is cheaper (about PLN 0.30 / kWh) so I have to accumulate: 1.25 * 12 = 15 kWh per day. Heating 1 l of 1 degree consumes approx. 1.2 Wh, so if the boiler works on a 50-degree temperature difference (e.g. 30-80 degrees) we have 60Wh / l. In such conditions, a 250l boiler is enough to use only the cheaper second tariff at zero degrees outside and at 20 degrees at home.

But if the house requires 10,000 kWh per year, we will either use a 500l boiler or only heat up on the 2nd tariff at +10 outside. In addition, at -20 degrees, you need about 5 kW, so this must be the heater. As @ Wojewoda82 wrote above, some things will not jump, so a 100l boiler with a 2.5 kW heater is enough for really small (up to 50 m2) and in addition very, very well insulated apartments. But for small apartments, I would give up CO on radiators and install storage heaters.

Hello everyone .. I am not at all about electricity prices, nor calculating energy consumption, heat demand and all the wonders you write about. But. Could some of you calculate the best option with the use of photovoltaic panels for such a boiler powered by a heater that heats radiators in the house, around 100m2, or a floor installation for, say, 60m2. Suppose the panels are at a minimum power of around 3kW. What boiler or heater to use, how many panels do you need to avoid overflowing with bills ... because taking photovoltaic panels you would like to save, but is it possible ??? Regards

Star74 wrote:

What boiler or heater to use, how many panels do you need to avoid overflowing with bills ... because taking photovoltaic panels you would like to save, but is it possible ??? Regards

It is impossible not to swim. When calculating the profitability of an alternative, current heating costs should be taken into account. Many people make the mistake of looking at the price of a kWh in their electricity bill and what they do is make it worthwhile. For wood and coal, the production of kWh of heat costs a dozen or so groszy, gas, propane and G12as (night) about 20 groszy. Installing 1 kW of PV costs around PLN 4,000 and will produce around 1,000 kWh per year. If instead of G12as, we decide to use electricity from the panels, we save 1000x0.2 = 200 PLN per year, which gives about 20 years of payback time. So the installation of photovoltaics in order to heat resistively "for free" is completely unprofitable.

What is different at home is the high consumption of lighting, household appliances and electronics. Then we save about PLN 0.70 per each kWh, i.e. about PLN 700 per year. This cuts PV's depreciation time to very, very short. The problem is that G12as cannot be combined with PV. If someone has the conditions to take advantage of the cheapest tariff, he should forget about PV. If he really wants to have solar panels on the roof and cheap electricity, there are other tariffs from the G12 group (more expensive, about PLN 0.30 a night) to choose from.

I read about CO heaters and even electrode furnaces and I found myself here. In general, the boy in 2011 had a cool idea, I wonder what it looks like today, but for me it works.
I have a PV plant and a large surplus. I do not want to play with any electrode furnaces, heat pumps, boiler heaters, because it requires a huge amount of work and costs. I will not place oil radiators around the rooms, because what does it look like?
My CO furnace heats 90m / sqm and has a continuous circulation through the 100L boiler, even without any 4-way valves, there is just a slightly smaller diameter of the pipes and it mixes the glycol back. This is how it worked until this year, i.e. heating the house and DHW water, but now on cold days I turn on the 2kW heater in the boiler, set 60 degrees and it heats up the glycol in the installation on the reverse principle. Not only that, the installation is connected to a solar system, and on sunny days, the water in the boiler is also heated by the solar system and the heater. I plan to replace the heater with 5kW and thus use the surplus faster and more effectively. I turn it on at night, so I have heat until the morning, because the stove will burn less fuel, and when it expires by 7:00, warm radiators, then the temperature drops, because 2kW is for two small rooms.
The problem of reheating solved without any lost ideas and costs - no work, no costs, only the head needs to be moved.

An old topic, but I'll link in and refresh.... Nowadays, boilers with a heat pump are on sale and I am tempted to: https://allegro.pl/oferta/podgrzewacz-wody-po...u-ariston-nuos-plus-s2-wi-fi-80-l-15602938401
to be connected to the central heating system as an additional heat source. I have a PV installation and a considerable surplus of electricity (on the old terms).... Question for those who have already heated their house/apartment with a boiler.... Does it work? At my house, a CO temp of +- 40 deg.C with continuous heating is enough to heat the house, so I think such a boiler would be manageable on the heat pump alone, without switching on the heater.

kelner1010 wrote:

This topic is old, but I'll link and refresh.... Nowadays there are on sale boilers with a heat pump and I am tempted to such a boiler : https://allegro.pl/oferta/podgrzewacz-wody-po...u-ariston-nuos-plus-s2-wi-fi-80-l-15602938401
I am tempted to connect such a boiler to the central heating system as an additional heat source. I have a PV installation and a considerable surplus of electricity (under the old conditions).... Question for those who have already heated their house/apartment with a boiler.... Does it work? I only need a central heating temperature of +- 40 degrees C with continuous heating, so I think that such a boiler could work on the heat pump alone without switching on the heater.

.

There is one problem. Such a boiler will heat the house on the identical principle as Baron Mühlhausen pulled himself out of the swamp by his hair. Together with his horse .

And quite seriously - this boiler draws energy from the house so by definition it cannot heat the house. It can at most slightly cool it down, because the energy that goes into the boiler will be taken away. In order to be heated, the boiler would have to draw energy from outside the house.

This boiler, and indeed the heat pump in it, has an air inlet and outlet that can be connected to/from outside or to another unheated room

kelner1010 wrote:

This boiler, and indeed the heat pump in it, has an air inlet and outlet that can be connected to/from outside or to another unheated room

.

And this is where the stairs begin. The inlet and (especially) the outlet would have to be connected by very well insulated pipes in order not to cool the rooms through which they are to be routed. Then there is the energy cost of the fan, which (unlike heat pumps) must also overcome the resistance of the pipes. The COP of such a system is unknown; I suspect very low.

These types of boilers are very good when used in summer. Not only because they have a high COP because they draw energy from the hot air. In addition, they cool the room they are installed in somewhat. They can be good during the heating season where it is not possible to install a boiler to the heating system in use, for example where there are fireplaces. In that case, the heat taken would come from the wood burned in the fireplace. But I don't really see it as a heating booster for buildings. It is better to invest in an air-conditioner with such an option.