Choosing PP Pipe Diameter for Water System: Boiler, Riser, Faucets, Toilet, Washing Machine & More

Good day. I need help choosing the diameter of the pp pipes in the water system. I am asking for advice.

1. From the main connection to the boiler
2. Cold supply to the riser
3. Power supply of hot to the riser
4. Circulation
5. Cold riser (bathtub, shower, washbasin, toilet on the first floor)
6. Heat riser (bathtub, shower, washbasin, toilet on the first floor)
7. Power supply of the basin battery
8. Powering the sink faucet
9. Toilet power
10. Washing machine power supply.
11. Floor shower supply
12th floor bathtub power supply

To illustrate the installation, I paste photos.

The installation is not large. If you are making a tee system, send cold water to the DN25 riser, divisions DN20. You can approach the devices and the last point to DN16,
Hot water riser DN20 approaches DN16 and it will be fine :)

circulation as low as possible

and these exits outside the building, what is it?

good question maybe he needs hot and cold water in the garden :)

just to be precise, these DN25 are the main ones from the water meter to the end of the riser.
Up to boiler 20 and all heat 20, outputs 16

I would give a diameter of 25 from the water meter to the boiler and to the water tee for the garden. The rest of the 20
Whole warm water 20.
if you do not have experience in welding, make the circulations also in the 20th smaller diameter, it is very easy to clog during welding.

Colleagues, you describe it very nicely.
Niceshoko. nice design only i not exactly marked on the ground floor there is a shower in the vestibule. Won't the diameters change when you include it?



One more question:

Do you agree with this Lecture ??? I like this translation very much.
"We have a connection made with a 1" pipe (25). The water supplier installs a water meter for us. This water meter is usually one diameter smaller for a better (more accurate) measurement, ie it has a size of 3/4 "(20). After the water meter, you should again have a 1" pipe. This reduction in diameter is such an orifice, but it does not matter much as it is a small local resistance (there is no point in writing further about it). And now let your imagination run wild. We have a 1 "pipe. According to the literature, without calculations, you can mount 10 spouts on it. You will install 15, it won't be a tragedy either, because there is also something like simultaneity factor (using the tap points) and the smaller it is, the better. But we come back. to this pipe 1 ". We have a branch. On this branch we place, for example, 1, 2 or 3 taps. We make a branch fi 15 because on such a pipe (1/2 ") we can mount three points. If there would be 4 or 5, we make a branch 20 (3/4") from the 1 ". This 20 goes to the place where the intake from 3 points. From this 20 straight to the tap comes out 15. 20 ends where there are only these three points. Then we go 15. But for the sake of clarity, let's leave these 3 points. So we have a branch from 1 ", 1/2" We go 1 "because we still have 7 points. We do the next 1/2 "branch because we will mount 2 points on it. Then we can lower the diameter of this 1" to 3/4 "because we have 5 points left (this is how many points we can mount on 3/4"). The next branches with 1/2 "and when we have 3 points left, we go 1/2 inch. If we have more of these points than 10, then let's try to distribute these diameters reasonably. a pipe with a smaller diameter will fly in the place, because on the way there was, for example, a toilet for which only cold water is needed. And of course, let's not forget about the circulation. We make it in such a small building with a 1/2 "pipe. It's best to draw it up. There is no point in making approaches under the batteries with a pipe fi 20. We do it 15. Some devices only need approaches fi 20, e.g. some washing machines. "

No, it won't.
PS. I wanted to point out that what I drew corresponds to certain conditions in the installation (slightly higher flow velocities and greater pressure drops, therefore smaller diameters). So it's a bit schematically done.

niceshoko wrote:

No, it won't.
PS. I wanted to point out that what I drew corresponds to certain conditions in the installation (slightly higher flow velocities and greater pressure drops, therefore smaller diameters). So it's a bit schematically done.

Did you choose the diameters according to the established norms and nomogram? In my opinion, the diameters are too small, they will be too high speeds.

Connections to houses are usually 32 in diameter, a 3/4 or inch water meter is mounted if you have a large garden for watering. the rest as I wrote above.

Piotr77777 wrote:

In my opinion, the diameters are too small, they will be too high speeds

... because all writers do not consider the wall thicknesses for these tubes.

Piotr77777 wrote:

I would give a diameter of 25 from the water meter to the boiler and to the water tee for the garden. The rest of the 20
Whole warm water 20.

1. Your suggestions are similar to mine
2. In this case, the speeds are slightly higher than the old PN 01706 (according to the manufacturer's recommendations).
3. The diameters of PP pipes depend on the working pressure. PN10 have smaller diameters than PN16 or even PN20.
4. The nomogram is largely obsolete, it is better to use the Colebrook-Whit formula

or from the heimeier calculator it is faster

at Multicalec, I do not know if you will count the hot water, which is for sure

Well, this is what bothers me.

pawelec5 wrote:

Well, this is what bothers me.

what ?

you enter the stream manually, then you count

Please correct any spelling mistakes
mod - mirrzo

The diameter of the tubes and their wall thickness are bothering me. Which pipes should be for cold and which ones for warm, and then you can specify the INTERNAL and not the outer diameters.

I personally would use PN20

I was thinking of Mon10 for cold and Mon16 for warm or all of Mon16