I am opening this topic because this problem is serious, especially in the slightly older construction industry (for example from the period of the earlier Polish People's Republic). Simply put, in a typical apartment from that period, there were 2 electric circuits: one lighting circuit (protected by a 10A fuse, often 6A in the case of small apartments) and ONE circuit of plug sockets, protected by a 10A fuse. While even 6A is sufficient for lighting, even when using ordinary light bulbs (and 10A is with a clear reserve), the circuit of the plug sockets is a problem. 10A is only 2200W (when the voltage was 220V - today it is 230V, i.e. 2300W). Problems appeared when automatic washing machines became widespread, because the washing machine's power is generally between 2200W and 2300W (sometimes even a bit more) and if there is ONE CIRCUIT in the apartment, the 10A fuse must blow out, because the refrigerator is permanently connected to the socket (depending on from sizes 100 to 200W). In practice, it was possible to wash in washing machines only on short programs and at a temperature of 40 degrees, otherwise the fuse was turned on again. I had to partially solve this problem illegally, giving a 16A fuse in place of the original one (I also talked about it earlier with an electrician who said that the wires should withstand, but the fuse value should not be used "to the end", because there is also a 16A, and you also need to add lighting). Later, in the staircases, it was changed from 16A to 20A and officially 16A was allowed in the apartments (I had to replace the caliber insert to put the 16A fuse on because it has a different contact diameter - of course I used thin INSULATED pliers and gloves).
Later, they started making 2 socket circuits: separate for rooms, separate for kitchen + bathroom (but this does not help, because the washing machine and refrigerator will be connected to one circuit anyway, but at least during washing, for example, a TV, a vacuum cleaner or a computer may be turned on. )
While in the case of an automatic washing machine, the power of approx. 220-2300W is justified (but later there were washing machines approx. 2100W - those loaded from the top), in the case of other home appliances (small) the producers really "went crazy" with the power. It is common to see electric kettles on sale with a power above 2000W (usually they are about 2200W) and once in one supermarket I saw a kettle with a power of 3000W !!! The kettle itself would have to have a 16A protection. After all, it is as much as a large storage stove and more than a typical boiler. The same idiocy is e.g. an iron with a power of 2000 or 2200W (they already are) - once irons with a thermostat were 750W (enough), then 1000W, steam started from 1000W and it was quite enough. Vacuum cleaners. Maybe someone remembers a tiny "Omega" with the power (if I remember) 100 or 120W? At the same time, the oldest model of the Soviet "Rocket" (360W) or "Chaika" (370W) were real rockets (full-size vacuum cleaners, quite large). Later - the powers were raised, for example, Zelmer started from 250W, then 400W, then 550W and so on. So when there is a 10A fuse, nothing can be turned on except the vacuum cleaner (+ fridge). Iron 2200W + fridge in a situation where the fuse is one for all sockets in the apartment and has a value of 10A - brick fuse "breaking". And where are the TV, radio, etc. Even something as small as a hair dryer now often has 1500W of power or more (and there used to be Farel with only 250W, but that's not enough - 600-800 is just right for a dryer).
I believe that equipment manufacturers should exercise some moderation in the case of power and take into account that not all installations are adapted to high loads and in many apartments there is one circuit of 10A plug sockets (i.e. less than one socket can withstand today - today sockets are 16A, it used to be 10A).
As for kettles, manufacturers should assume that it should have as much power (in kilowatts) as it has liters, i.e. a small kettle (1 liter) should have 1000W, a typical kettle should have 1700 or 1800 watts (usually 1.7 l. or 1.8 l.), the iron should be 1000w, vacuum cleaner - approx. 600w, unless it has adjustment, then 1000w., food processor - 500W (more or less the same light type electric drill, but this is There is no longer a household appliance but an electric tool), a 10-liter capacitive electric heater - about 1500W (a large 3000W boiler and should be connected to a separate circuit with a 16A safety device), a coffee machine - 1000W.
Later, they started making 2 socket circuits: separate for rooms, separate for kitchen + bathroom (but this does not help, because the washing machine and refrigerator will be connected to one circuit anyway, but at least during washing, for example, a TV, a vacuum cleaner or a computer may be turned on. )
While in the case of an automatic washing machine, the power of approx. 220-2300W is justified (but later there were washing machines approx. 2100W - those loaded from the top), in the case of other home appliances (small) the producers really "went crazy" with the power. It is common to see electric kettles on sale with a power above 2000W (usually they are about 2200W) and once in one supermarket I saw a kettle with a power of 3000W !!! The kettle itself would have to have a 16A protection. After all, it is as much as a large storage stove and more than a typical boiler. The same idiocy is e.g. an iron with a power of 2000 or 2200W (they already are) - once irons with a thermostat were 750W (enough), then 1000W, steam started from 1000W and it was quite enough. Vacuum cleaners. Maybe someone remembers a tiny "Omega" with the power (if I remember) 100 or 120W? At the same time, the oldest model of the Soviet "Rocket" (360W) or "Chaika" (370W) were real rockets (full-size vacuum cleaners, quite large). Later - the powers were raised, for example, Zelmer started from 250W, then 400W, then 550W and so on. So when there is a 10A fuse, nothing can be turned on except the vacuum cleaner (+ fridge). Iron 2200W + fridge in a situation where the fuse is one for all sockets in the apartment and has a value of 10A - brick fuse "breaking". And where are the TV, radio, etc. Even something as small as a hair dryer now often has 1500W of power or more (and there used to be Farel with only 250W, but that's not enough - 600-800 is just right for a dryer).
I believe that equipment manufacturers should exercise some moderation in the case of power and take into account that not all installations are adapted to high loads and in many apartments there is one circuit of 10A plug sockets (i.e. less than one socket can withstand today - today sockets are 16A, it used to be 10A).
As for kettles, manufacturers should assume that it should have as much power (in kilowatts) as it has liters, i.e. a small kettle (1 liter) should have 1000W, a typical kettle should have 1700 or 1800 watts (usually 1.7 l. or 1.8 l.), the iron should be 1000w, vacuum cleaner - approx. 600w, unless it has adjustment, then 1000w., food processor - 500W (more or less the same light type electric drill, but this is There is no longer a household appliance but an electric tool), a 10-liter capacitive electric heater - about 1500W (a large 3000W boiler and should be connected to a separate circuit with a 16A safety device), a coffee machine - 1000W.
