Purmo Radiator & Danfoss 013G5164 Thermostatic Kit Issue: Not Heating Up in Ground Floor Flat

Hello,
I have a problem with a new Purmo radiator with Danfoss 013G5164 thermostatic kit installed. I live in a block of flats on the ground floor.
A few days ago, the heater only warmed up in the top half, the bottom half was cold. It was probably due to the closed return valve. I unscrewed the valve, unfortunately now the radiator does not heat up at all. When I unscrew the vent, the glycol flows from the radiator, it does not foam, it does not hiss, so the radiator is deaerated. I took off the thermostatic head and tried to adjust the RA-N thermostatic valve to open it as much as possible. It did not help, however. The heater is still cold.

I would like to add that I have built the pipes of the riser behind the GK. I can only touch the piece of pipe which is horizontally off the vertical and to which the radiator is screwed. This morning it was slightly warm, now it is cold. The cooperative says everything is fine with the outside plumbing and riser. In other rooms, the radiators heat up properly and heat up in about 2 minutes.
Please help. I already lack ideas to solve the problem.

Hello, where does this glycol come from ?, the CO installation is filled with it? Big plate + probably black pipes = all the muck from the installation blocked some flow. I do not believe that some cooperative / community would fill the internal heat node with glycol.

I suspect you turned the return valve off, not unscrewed.
If you had it turned off from the beginning, the radiator would not heat up at all. Also check the valve first.

What kind of heater is cast iron or aluminum. There must be a valve for the thermostatic head. If you already have the head removed, move the valve pin and press it several times, you can also gently tap the entire valve to make it move.

Thanks for the answers. Steel radiators (modernization), new, as well as valves. Yellow liquid flows out of the air vent, not water, so probably glycol. The return valve is turned fully open. I screwed it in and unscrewed it to be sure, checked the settings with another radiator. The head valve is not in place, it extends to the maximum and moves smoothly in both directions.

Interestingly, with another closed and cold radiator, the pipes leading to the radiator are warm. With this feleler, the top tube is cold, and the bottom tube is a few degrees (slightly) warmer. Weird.

Tobiasz22 wrote:

The head valve is not in place, it extends to the maximum and moves smoothly in both directions.

Just because the pin is moving does not mean the valve is not seated. I rather doubt that there would be glycol, rather water with rust, if they were modernized. It is possible that your radiator was filled with water when they rinsed the installation. This is the first season after modernization?

This yellow liquid is interesting, probably yellow that floods the plumbers reading the topic. This is water with an installation sludge - obvious lack of flow, the shell heaters have small supply cross-sections, they could be covered with your> glycol. If you have valves on the supply and return, as you wrote earlier, disassemble this radiator and clean it with pressurized water.

I will contact the cooperative again tomorrow morning. Meanwhile, is anyone able to explain this phenomenon:
1.The radiator water inlet valve is fully turned on, the water supply pipe is cold at the riser
2. I turn off the valve
3.after about 5 minutes, the pipe on the riser becomes warm
4. unscrew the valve
5. the pipe becomes cold after about 30 seconds, the heater remains cold
How is it possible that unscrewing the valve cools the pipe that supplies the water to the radiator?

Poor circulation in this heating riser. There may also be an obstruction in the horizontal inflow / outflow of your radiator. Riser pipes heat up?

hello, buddy, I would bet a clogged supply valve, after all these danfos have very small passages, muck is blocking the flow.

roman 18 wrote:

hello, buddy, I would bet a clogged supply valve, after all these danfos have very small passages, muck is blocking the flow.

To clean it, remove the head, set the initial setting (crimping) to the "N" position, so that a greater flow was washed out of silt, sand and dust. After approx. 20 minutes, restore the old crossings, or set it slightly higher than it was (but not N, unless it is the last floor - then you can set "N").

Thanks again to everyone for the answers.
I called the cooperative this morning, they say the problem is not on their side since the riser is warm. There is no glycol in the system, only treated water. I also spoke by phone to the plumber who installed the valves for me and he told me to check the valves as follows:

1.unscrew the top and bottom valves, the radiator is full of water
2. I turn off both valves
3.open the vent, drain the water, after a while the water should stop flowing, it means that the radiator above the vent has emptied and that the valves are tight. This is also what happened in my case.
4. Then I only opened the top valve. I heard water pouring rapidly into the radiator. The water supply pipe to the radiator has become hot. The valve is clogged.
5. I closed the top valve (both valves were closed). Then I opened the vent again and drained the water from the radiator.
6. I opened the top valve. After literally a quarter of a turn. water began to fill the heater and flow from the vent. The bottom valve is not open.

Now the most interesting.
At the moment when I released the water from the radiator with the valve turned off again with the vent, then turned off the vent and opened the upper valve, the pipe got hot as the first time. Then I opened the lower valve a bit and immediately the upper pipe, carrying the water to the radiator, became cold! This means that for some reason the pressure is more on the down tube than on the top tube.

I live on the ground floor. Other vertical radiators on the returns do not have valves (unless someone replaced the radiator and put them on). I currently have the R-AN valve set to 7. I tried with different settings (the upper valve was set to 1, the lower valve was only slightly unscrewed), unfortunately to no avail. In the morning I spoke to my neighbor upstairs, his living room heater heats up. Other radiators (e.g. kitchen, bathroom) in my apartment heat well.

I ask again which year it is after this modernization? There are 2 options either a colleague messed up something or a clogged / incorrectly set thermostatic valve in the basement. In the cellars, they can also install thermostatic valves, which are connected with a "heat-pipe" (copper pipe), if there is warm water on the return from the riser, the valve on the supply riser is closed (such heat saving). There is probably a problem on the return valve in the basement that has stuck and all the water in the mountain comes back to you back. Such charms of the ground floor can be similar to the sewage system as the riser becomes blocked, e.g. a fountain from the toilet. :)

Here you have valve adjustment.

This is the first heating season after the modernization of radiators in my apartment. I saw the movie, I have an identical valve.

I don't know what the installation in the basement looks like and how it is built. Tomorrow I will call the cooperative again, I hope they won't put me off.

Tobiasz22 wrote:

This is the first heating season after the modernization of radiators in my apartment.

So they probably got something wrong.

You will find something similar in the basement.

This is a differential pressure regulator, but I have seen it somewhere with a thermostat.

I suspect one thing. The riser valve (in the basement) on the supply riser can be slightly screwed on, so that the pressure on the above riser has been reduced to the value of the return pressure (if not even lower) and the heater does not heat up. Screwing the riser valves on is - unfortunately - quite a common practice, performed "by feel", without any pressure measurements. This usually results in non-heating radiators on the upper floors of a given riser.

Yes, the problem is most likely in the basement and it could be the supply and return valves. Today someone from the cooperative is to check it. I will let you know.

The radiator heats up. Someone from the cooperative had to unscrew the valves in the basement.