Drilling Ceiling Dilemma: Chandelier Mounting, Weak Drill, Depth Issues, Metal Detector Use

I bought a chandelier, unfortunately it is not mounted on a hook, but on a plate that needs to be screwed to the ceiling, it was a bit of a problem for me because I drilled one hole and the other was impossible. Moving away a bit from the specificity of this problem, I think my drill is too weak, because I can never drill a hole as deep as it would be useful, I hung a picture once and finally cut a pin a bit, because it was impossible to drill further. I managed to drill one hole in the ceiling to a depth of 3/4 of the length of the pin I have, and when I tried the second hole, I drilled maybe 2mm and the drill was spinning in place, I thought that maybe there was a pipe in this place, so I filled this little hole and tried in a completely different place, but unfortunately also the same, I do not understand how I drilled in one place and not the other ... I borrowed from a friend a device that detects metal under the wall, but it does not work with the service, it beeps all the time wherever I keep it. what do you think? is it possible that there was something underneath it a millimeter from the ceiling?

The ceiling is reinforced and that's it. If you do, take a normal metal drill and continue drilling. There are no pipes in the ceiling.

balonika3 wrote:

The ceiling is reinforced and that's it. If you do, take a normal metal drill and continue drilling. There are no pipes in the ceiling.

if it is armored, why wasn't it in one place (where the hole went)?

Not that you should be offended or anything, but you use the hammer to drill or you drill like in wood. It's best to start with simple things ...
Try drilling with a smaller drill bit later than 2 mm larger and so on to the desired diameter, although the chandelier does not require pegs larger than 6 mm.

trance123 wrote:

Not that you should be offended or anything, but you use the hammer to drill or you drill like in wood. It's best to start with simple things ...
Try drilling with a smaller drill bit later than 2 mm larger and so on to the desired diameter, although the chandelier does not need pegs larger than 6 mm.

I do not know why I should be offended, I am a newbie in drilling, but I think that it is not something that you cannot do yourself, you only help me, for which I thank you, I do not know drills, this is some old drill with an inscription Combi. Perhaps it is really for wood, I tried the smaller one, then the bigger one, but nothing moved, and I don't try even a bigger one, because it will be too loose for the peg. I am still wondering why a hole a few cm next to it drilled with the same drill on the first try, and here is the problem ..

Not a weak drill, but a blunt drill.
And as COMBI is probably PRCR 10/6 IIb, i.e. the old CELMA two-speed without a stroke. You will not move concrete with this, at most with an impact attachment - maybe you have it and you don't know?
Buy a GOOD drill (not the set of 6 for PLN 3).
Not too high speed (because you will quickly blunt or burn the drill), stroke and strong pressure.
If the drill bit does not go into the concrete - check it and then look into the hole. If you have metal filings on the drill that hold onto it like a magnet (not always the case ...) and in the hole you can see metal at the bottom, drill in a different place. The rebars aren't right next to each other. But there may also be a sheet in the concrete ...
Attempting to drill metal with a metal drill will end up destroying it, which is a pity. It's better with a slightly different sharpened Widia drill, but it's a higher driving school, a grinder is needed.
The hammer drill can stand on hard stone - then a hammer drill (SDS) will do.

adam95102 wrote:

balonika3 wrote:

The ceiling is reinforced and that's it. If you do, take a normal metal drill and continue drilling. There are no pipes in the ceiling.

if it is armored, why wasn't it in one place (where the hole went)?

If there is a reinforced concrete ceiling, you have reinforcement wires at some distance from each other and you can hit them, but the most likely is that you hit pieces of stone with the drill (it happens in gravel from which slabs can be made). A hammer drill and a good drill bit can help you solve the problem.

cyruss wrote:

Not a weak drill, but a blunt drill.
Buy a GOOD drill (not the set of 6 for PLN 3).
Not too high speed (because you will quickly blunt or burn the drill), stroke and strong pressure.
If the drill bit does not go into the concrete - check it and then look into the hole. If you have metal filings on the drill that hold onto it like a magnet (not always the case ...) and in the hole you can see metal at the bottom, drill in a different place. The rebars aren't right next to each other. But there may also be a sheet in the concrete ...
Attempting to drill metal with a metal drill will end up destroying it, which is a pity. It's better with a slightly different sharpened Widia drill, but it's a higher driving school, a grinder is needed.
The hammer drill can stand on hard stone - then a hammer drill (SDS) will do.

the drill bits look good, but as you say, you can see metal in the hole

Added after 5 [minutes]:

and so departing a bit from the topic of drilling, let me tell you that I live in a block that was built 6 years ago and there is a massacre here .., the walls are cracking all over the house, in some places it is full height with quite thick cracks, which is why I am also surprised a bit that the walls are cracking themselves, and there are problems with drilling one small hole, I think I will invest in a solid drill

If it is - as I wrote above - an old two-speed celma without a stroke, it is a waste of health. Buy yourself a hammer drill for "PLN 49.99", it is enough to drill a few holes in your home.
A decent, non-thick drill costs a dozen or so PLN / piece.

First, the hammer drill. For another solid drill. thirdly, when drilling with a hammer, metal can be heard very clearly, it is a completely different sound than concrete or stone. But as already written - your combi has no stroke ...

You can also drill a Celma, you used to drill holes by hand or with a punch, and people could do it. However, it cost a lot of sweat.
The technique of making the hole is the most important.
Sometimes the plaster itself is so hard that there is a problem with drilling through it, and then it goes like butter.
The basis for drilling and maintaining the intended location of the hole is to mark the drilling site (this way you can even break through the top layer of plaster) and start drilling with a small-diameter drill at low revolutions. So that the drill does not "fall" to the side.
If you hit a stone and have a problem with drilling further, the old and proven method is, for example, an assembly screwdriver (one with a metal handle end) or any other tool in the shape of a small cutter. You put it in the hole and hit it with a hammer, turn it by 90 ° just in case and hit it again, crushing the obstacle. This way, even with a not very sharp drill and Celma, you can do it with a little effort.
If you hit a rebar and you cannot move the drilling spot, you insert a metal drill, drill the rod and reattach the concrete drill.
After this description, I think your chandelier will finally hang
I recommend the movie "Nothing Funny", where you can meet a specialist in drilling holes in concrete in the elevator ...

It is a known fact that when you have access to tools, a sharp drill bit and a good stroke will make it very easy for you to get the job done.

fascynat wrote:

You can also drill a Celma, you used to drill holes with a handheld or punch and people could do it. However, it cost a lot of sweat.
The technique of making the hole is the most important.
Sometimes the plaster itself is so hard that there is a problem with drilling through it, and then it goes like butter.
The basis for drilling and maintaining the intended location of the hole is to mark the drilling site (this way you can even break through the top layer of plaster) and start drilling with a small-diameter drill at low revolutions. So that the drill does not "fall" to the side.
If you hit a stone and have a problem with drilling further, the old and proven method is, for example, an assembly screwdriver (one with a metal handle end) or any other tool in the shape of a small cutter. You put it in the hole and hit it with a hammer, turn it by 90 ° just in case and hit it again, crushing the obstacle. This way, even with a not very sharp drill and Celma, you can do it with a little effort.
If you hit a rebar and you cannot move the drilling spot, you insert a metal drill, drill the rod and reattach the concrete drill.
After this description, I think your chandelier will finally hang
I recommend the movie "Nothing Funny", where you can meet a specialist in drilling holes in concrete in the elevator ...

It is a known fact that when you have access to tools, a sharp drill bit and a good stroke will make the task very easy for you.

thanks for this information will come in handy. As for the movie, I have seen it long ago, heh, I love those older comedies

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