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Oil change on a cold - warm - hot engine?

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  • #1
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  • #2
    kwantor
    Level 38  
    I am dealing with this, and I don't think it matters.
    The engine is never dry fired because there is a film of oil on all moving rubbing surfaces.
    Running an engine without oil is stupid to me, because what you get is "pay" when starting after replacement, before the pump is full and all oiling channels, the situation may not be dramatic, but definitely worse than without such innovations.

    The topic is not worth discussing.
  • #3
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  • #6
    Breżniew
    Level 22  
    rekda2 wrote:
    The oil pump is able to (I do not know whether to push but) to give the oil back without sucking in a new dose, certainly not all of the oil, but about 200 ml (a glass). This amount may cause the old oil to mix with the new one, giving a 'start after mixing' 'brown oil.


    I have not read more nonsense for a long time. Something like this could only be written by a young theorist with a head full of ideas from the same Internet theorists as himself. But to the point.
    It's not even about running the engine dry anymore. The greatest foolishness is to empty the pump of oil which, thanks to its viscosity, seals it. After sucking in air and losing the oil film between the gears of the pump and its housing, the pump loses the ability to suck in fresh oil itself. Then such an individual pours in fresh oil, starts the engine and waits until the oil pressure lamp goes out. And it does not go out, so the bladder may help. And this is how the engine gets through the lack of pressure on the bearings.
    Modern oils have a high TBN number, which characterizes the cleaning properties of the oil. So, in a modern engine with modern oil change in time, there is no need for any additional oil change procedures. You simply drain the hot oil from the sump, you must replace the oil filter, fill in the new oil to the correct level. Then you start the engine, the pump fills the filter and the oil pressure lamp goes out, you turn off the ignition. You wait a while and refill the oil to the correct level because the oil ran out after the lubrication system was pumped up. Ready.
    Some engines, e.g. TDI, have a filter cartridge placed in a special housing. When changing, the old oil can be sucked out of the housing before inserting the new cartridge.
    Instead of combining, it's better to just change the oil more often. Instead of, for example, in the LL system at about 30,000 km, we change the oil with a filter every 15,000 km. It certainly won't hurt, quite the opposite.
  • #7
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  • #8
    Breżniew
    Level 22  
    The pump is not as dry as pepper if you drain the old oil and pour new oil without running the engine. It gets dry when you start rotating its drive quickly without adding any oil to the suction side of the pump.
    In my professional life, I have diagnosed and repaired several different engines with damaged main and connecting rod bearings due to air in the oil pump for various reasons. In both car and motorcycle engines, the dry pump will not suck in the oil itself or it will take a long time, and this is an indisputable fact. Remember that the pump is always installed above the oil level in the oil pan.
    You haven't heard about seized shafts in moto engines after running on rubber (one wheel)? It only takes a few seconds, e.g. in Coffees, for it to rub on the 3rd cup. For this, stunters remake the place where the dragon is attached to the oil, create special pockets in the oil pan, or pour more than the recommended oil, so that the dragon never emerges from the oil.
    Bleeding the lubrication system may require, for example, unscrewing the oil filter and removing the spark plugs. We turn the shaft with the starter until oil appears in the filter socket. Then tighten the filter and turn the starter until the indicator light goes out. Thanks to the unscrewed spark plugs, the starter turns the shaft very quickly without the load of normal engine operation.
    In another engine, in order to suck in oil after a long stay in the warehouse, it was necessary to pump oil from the outside into the oil main after removing the oil pressure sensor. It was only this procedure that allowed the pump to be flooded with oil and sucked through it from the sump - one of many examples that I have encountered personally. So I am surprised by your approach to the subject, but everyone does as they see fit.
  • #9
    tomek040486
    Level 11  
    unscrew the plug and drain the oil on a warm engine. do you need so many arguments for such a banal thing? :D
  • #10
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  • #11
    kwantor
    Level 38  
    When the car is burned before replacing it, it is better hot, it will drain faster.
    However, if it stands on the canal overnight, it is cold - that's just logic.
    Will you drive and warm it up?
    And it turns out to be the same.
  • #12
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  • #13
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  • #14
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  • #15
    Breżniew
    Level 22  
    Mechanics know perfectly well what to change oil for hot, not cold. For interesting pseudo mechanics, I will explain:
    - The used oil in the engine is a colloidal solution. Modern oils, thanks to the strong dispersion properties of soot particles, sludge, sludge, varnish, etc., allow you to keep the engine perfectly clean. Everything that is not needed in the engine remains on the oil filter, and smaller particles are dissolved in the oil. Contrary to appearances, carbon particles in the form of soot and graphite have a friction-reducing effect, so they are not harmful to a certain amount. However, if the oil is standing still, all the particles that make up the solution in the oil begin to precipitate and settle in the oil pan, oil channels, etc. As the oil is heated while the engine is running, these fine contaminants again form a solution in the oil. By draining hot oil, we get rid of the maximum amount of impurities contained in the old oil.
    When draining the cold oil, e.g. after a night in the garage, you drain the oil with less impurities, because some of them precipitated and remained in the engine. Then you add new oil, start the engine, and some of the old dirt flows in the new oil.
    For those who want to deepen the topic, I recommend reading the literature, for example FUELS, OLEJE, LUBARY Janina Michałowska. The book is old, but many of the issues discussed in it are still relevant.
  • #16
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  • #17
    kidu22
    Level 35  
    rekda2 wrote:
    I had a Punto with a 1100 MPI engine, after draining the oil and replacing the oil filter, I started pouring a new one without tightening the screw in the bowl, only when I noticed how the new oil was coming out, I turned the drain screw.
    After this order, I had clean oil for a long time and it was difficult to see it on the dipstick, and it was really because of the large number of kilometers traveled. around 500. Other colleagues, despite a different engine, but also with a low mileage, did not enjoy such a clean oil, I suspect that the procedure of draining the oil on a warm engine is not as accurate as on a cold engine - of course it is impossible to make too many such conclusions right away this can be influenced by various factors.


    I almost had a heart attack, what did you 'eat' today?

    I change the oil every 10kkm and so up to 5000km it is clean and transparent.
    And at 10,000 km after the finger test it is still clear.
    I never put oil in black goo.
    Moreover, by unscrewing the oil plug, all aluminum parts are clean and shiny, not smeared with black carbon deposits.

    Exchange only on hot, ......... what he writes for, after all, it's the level of the toilet in Hades.
  • #18
    Breżniew
    Level 22  
    For my part, EOT. I do not discuss neostrada children. They know everything best, so it's a waste of time.
  • #19
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  • #20
    kidu22
    Level 35  
    kidu22 wrote:
    I change oil every 10kkm

    Next
    rekda2 wrote:
    The topic may be stupid, but the current arguments do not reach me



    rekda2 wrote:
    if you change the oil every 10 km, change it and every 1 km
  • #21
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