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One Radiator Not Heating: Closed System with Supply Pump, Alu-Pex & Panel Radiators, 1 Bar Pressure

marins 48576 11
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 11296328
    marins
    Level 13  
    Hello. I have a problem with one radiator that does not heat at all.
    One thread from the stove with two heaters on one level. The radiators are separated by tees, one heats well and the other not at all. They are about 3 meters apart. There is a supply pump in the system and the system is closed. I set the pressure on the extinguished stove to 1 bar.

    I will add that once I allowed water and I got lost 1.4 bar on the cold one, this radiator was heating but I do not want to overdo it because the installation is in alu-pex and panel radiators

    I also noticed that the valve on the supply at this radiator, which does not heat up, is slightly sweating from under the plastic regulation. Can such a valve be regenerated in some way ?? Valve as in the link:
    http: //
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  • #2 11296473
    marionez
    Level 11  
    try to bleed the heater.
  • #3 11296478
    kolenda7
    Level 11  
    Most likely you have air in this radiator, try to bleed it.
    There should be an air vent in the upper part of the radiator, as it is an automatic air vent, theoretically it should vent itself, and if it is not an automatic device, you have to manually unscrew it slightly until the water comes out.
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  • #4 11296547
    marins
    Level 13  
    Of course, I try to bleed the radiator several times a day. A few air bubbles will fly onto the glass of water. I allow water to 1.1 bar and drain the glass of water again and no more bubbles are flying. After a few hours, I repeat the activity and the situation repeats itself. Even the valve at the radiator does not get warm.

    I tried deaeration on a cold stove and on a warm one with the pump turned on, temperature approx. 60 degrees without improvement
  • #5 11296697
    kolenda7
    Level 11  
    Or maybe you have a closed orifice valve located at the outlet of the radiator, if you have such a valve installed at all.
  • #6 11296737
    marins
    Level 13  
    I checked the valves unscrewed. I checked the radiator in such a way that I turned off all the others except what was not heating. It only heated a little at the top and at the valve itself.
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  • #7 11296809
    marionez
    Level 11  
    What type of heater is it?
  • #8 11296834
    marins
    Level 13  
    Panel. I don't remember the producer.

    Problem solved :)
    Automatic air vent helped.
    I would like to add that two plumbers could not cope with this radiator
  • #9 11335299
    Anna31
    Level 2  
    Hello. I have a problem with a heater that gets only slightly warm but not as hot as the others. It is a central radiator, i.e. pipes in the staircase, from which the connection to my apartment opens and runs through the kitchen, then through a small room and into a large room. Radiators in the kitchen and in a large room, if I set "4", are hot, and the one in a small room is slightly warm, even at "5". There is no air in it, because when you try to bleed air, water flows straight away. maybe someone will help me, because I know that when I call a specialist, it will probably turn out to be some crap and I will pay as for grain.
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  • #10 11335629
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Check the initial setting on the valve (the one that serves as an obturation and is available after removing the head). Maybe this radiator is more clogged than the others and therefore heats poorly and the others may not be clogged at all (or the presetting is set to high flow).
  • #11 11335683
    Anna31
    Level 2  
    I tried to remove the head, but it won't unscrew in any way. Moreover, I noticed that the same heater, even when it is turned to "0", gives off a minimal amount of heat. (this is how it is that women have no idea about technical matters ;-)
  • #12 11336161
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Anna31 wrote:
    I tried to remove the head, but it won't unscrew in any way. Moreover, I noticed that the same heater, even when it is turned to "0", gives off a minimal amount of heat. (this is how it is that women have no idea about technical matters ;-)

    What is the head? Danfoss or another?
    If Danfoss is screwed to the valve with a large cap nut, unscrewed with a 32 wrench (if there is no, you can always take an adjustable, e.g. "Frenchman". After removing the head (for Danfoss valve) there is a ring with numbers on it from 0 to 7 and further the letter N. The setting "0" would mean closing the valve (no flow), while the setting "N" means full flow (as if without clotting and actually only serves to flush the valve and the radiator - high flow will wash out the fouling). the reference is such a small stamped point on the valve body Try to increase the setting (at the beginning by one value) on a non-working radiator, and if it is not enough, then by two values, and on those radiators that heat a lot, you can decrease the setting by one. turn it, you have to pull it towards you (if you can't twist your fingers, try with pliers, but not to crush it). In other valves it can be similar (setting ring) - a few do not have it at all initial setting (I have encountered such a valve once).

Topic summary

A user reported a problem with one radiator in a closed heating system that does not heat, while another radiator nearby functions properly. The system includes a supply pump, operates at 1 bar pressure, and uses alu-pex and panel radiators. Initial troubleshooting involved bleeding the radiator, which revealed persistent air bubbles. Further checks indicated that the valves were open, but the radiator only heated slightly at the top. The issue was resolved by using an automatic air vent, despite previous attempts by two plumbers to fix it.
Summary generated by the language model.
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