[Solved] De Dietrich boiler ms 24 mi ff error e01 after 3-4 firings lasting 20s each

Hello, I have a problem with the De Dietrich MS 24 MI FF boiler. The error e01 is displayed (in the service manual, the blockade due to lack of start-up) is displayed after 3-4 firings lasting 20 seconds each, i.e. after about a minute from starting the boiler in CH or HUW mode. I checked the 9kOhm CO thermistor on the hot pipe, pressure switch (turned on by the fan), thermal fuses, flow sensor, three-way valve, ignition electrode (no ionization), capacitors on the module, the module itself (no burnt elements). Please let me know what else could be the reason?

Furnace manual, fig. 17, or?
The impeller of the pump is not seized in connection with the filters, (fig. 17, points 6 and 9)
The water pressure on the manometer is 0.5 - 1 bar! pt. 5
The contacts of the hydraulic water pressure switch are ok! pt. 13
Safety thermostat jt. Approx! pt. 21
The pump is vented! pt. 1
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3546724.html#17844575 = see this post 10

Check if the phase is on the right side, check if there is gas, if the flame lights up and goes out?, if it lights up and goes out, clean the electrode which is both ignition and ionization. If after replacing the electrode and the cable (check if it has come out of the board) it still goes out, the board needs to be replaced. Luckily parts are cheap.

Thank you ROWE for your post #2 20 Mar 2019 18:40. I answer below:

ROWE wrote:

Furnace manual, fig. 17, or?
The impeller of the pump is not seized in connection with the filters, (fig. 17, points 6 and 9)

The pump impeller is NOT seized. When you unscrew the bleed screw, you can see that it rotates.
I haven't checked the filters. Still.
By the way, I forgot to add that the boiler fires up, and the display then shows numbers increasing from the current CH water temperature up to 40. Then the boiler goes out and re-ignitions. Do this 3-4-5 times and E01 appears.

ROWE wrote:

The water pressure on the manometer is 0.5 - 1 bar! pt. 5

Hmm, I take it that's not the case? The desired pressure value is, quoted in the manual on page 4, "when the system is cold, it is 0.7 - 1.5 bar"?

ROWE wrote:

The contacts of the hydraulic water pressure switch are ok! pt. 13

Yes. The water pressure sensor has short-circuited contacts, i.e. the central heating pressure is above the minimum, the contacts are not tarnished, not rusty, unobstructed.

ROWE wrote:

Safety thermostat jt. Approx! pt. 21

Yes. The contacts are closed all the time.

ROWE wrote:

The pump is vented! pt. 1

Yes.

ROWE wrote:

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3546724.html#17844575 = see this post 10

I have already done. As I wrote in the first post, this boiler does not have an ionization electrode.

So there are still filters or the motherboard to be replaced!
(I think you checked the fan and pressure switch issues)
Sometimes the pumps have an additional metal mesh filter just behind the turbine. To get there you need to unscrew 2 or 4 screws from the face of the pump.
After many years of pump operation, it is not cleaned and forms a wall for water. I don't know if it's in the oven!

wojtek__ wrote:

As I wrote in the first post, this boiler does not have an ionization electrode.

For the sake of clarification, first of all it has an ignition - ionization electrode (two in one).

Thank you Dobroslaw for your post #3 20 Mar 2019 20:55. Below I answer:

dobroslaw wrote:

Check if the phase is on the right side,

I will check. I take it it's supposed to be on the left? The boiler has been plugged into the same socket for 5-8 years.

dobroslaw wrote:

check if there is gas, does the flame ignite and go out?,

Yes, there is gas, the flame ignites and goes out.

dobroslaw wrote:

if it lights up and goes out, clean the electrode which is both ignition and ionization.

I cleaned it.

dobroslaw wrote:

If after replacing the electrode and the cable (check if it has come out of the board) it still goes out, the board needs to be replaced.

The electrode and lead are fine. The wire is plugged into the board. Yet it still fades away.

dobroslaw wrote:

Luckily parts are cheap.

I do not know how much a new electronic module for this boiler is. If you are able to log on to reklamowa.dedietrich.pl, please tell me how much the module costs.
http://zamienne.dedietrich.pl/diagram.php?id_pd=6680.

Go through #post 5 again because I added the pump issue to it in the meantime!

dobroslaw wrote:

clean the electrode which is both ignition and ionization.

ROWE wrote:

For the sake of clarification, first of all it has an ignition - ionization electrode (two in one).

Thanks for the info.

Added after 9 [minutes]:

ROWE wrote:

Go through #post 5 again because I added the pump issue to it in the meantime!

He thanked.

ROWE wrote:

So there are still filters

I will check.

ROWE wrote:

, or motherboard to be replaced!

If so, it's hard. But I try not to be a part exchanger, especially modules, if there is no need.

ROWE wrote:

(I think you checked the fan and pressure switch issues)

Yes. The pressure switch is open when the fan is off and closed when the fan is on.

ROWE wrote:

Sometimes the pumps have an additional metal mesh filter just behind the turbine. To get there you need to unscrew 2 or 4 screws from the face of the pump.
After many years of pump operation, it is not cleaned and forms a wall for water. I don't know if it's in the oven!

I will check. I'll let you know.

wojtek__ wrote:

If so, it's hard. But I try not to be a parts changer, especially modules, if there is no need.

I have the same principle, i.e. extremes that should be excluded to the end!

You do not need to log in to the store to know the parts electrode PLN 29 cable 11 usually works after replacement and the most common reason only to replace the electrode, unfortunately, you have to pull out the burners and with it a bit of work. there was a development boiler, cheap and cheap parts and the board was most often in it, it happened that the new one also lived for a short time, so it's better to order a service, you will have guarantees. As for the phase, it should be brown

dobroslaw wrote:

As for the phase, it should be brown

Specifically, it's brown, the "L" clamp and the prices above are net.

Did the author of the post deal with the problem? I have the same symptom and am following your thread.
Kind regards
Luke

Yes, I managed. In my case, however, someone switched the power supply of the boiler to another socket, where the phases were changed. After plugging into a good socket, the boiler started.

Thanks to @dobrosław and @ROWE for their help. Sorry for the late reply, but I forgot.