Broetje WBS2 22 Boiler - Error 133 Resolved, Post-Service Issues & Technician Insights

I have a Broetje WBS2 22 boiler, serviced. The stove is fresh after the review, cleaned. It stopped working, first it showed error 133, after deleting it, it surprised for 2 hours. Then he collapsed completely.
The service technician does not know what is.
Can anyone help?

What does it mean that he has fallen? No error, nothing on the display ...?

The display shows E133, after the boiler is turned on, it "humms" for a moment, and then this signal appears on the display. There is nothing to do or what, switching to day, night or car mode does not give anything. the boiler was cleaned by the service 4 days ago, it worked properly for 2 hours. Earlier (before this review) he also showed e105 first and then e133.

E 133 no flame during safety time.

What does this mean (please provide a more advanced version of the hint, the version for those involved)? What is it caused by? How do I get out of it?

E 133 easier it may be no ignition or too low ionization current. Position the electrodes in accordance with the DTR.

The solution to this problem is the capacitor - position on the C209 board - it should be replaced and the boiler will work as it should. The cost of the tile is about PLN 60 net.

I had the same problem, the stove turned on and worked differently - 30 minutes. 40 minutes until the burner is turned off and on again. The flame was there, but in a moment it was turned off, and so several times until the error E133, then E 153, even E 151, there was a service and it did not work. He suggested that the stove controller (PLN 1400 net), that the gas ramp (PLN 700 net). it turned out that the capacitor for 1.5 zlotys and 10 minutes. to exchange . Capacitor marking: 150nF275V ~ X2, I replaced it with 150nF305V ~ X2. More in the link - I think it's the French side - it's clean without worries (NORTON 360)

http://www.forum-chauffage.com/chaudiere-chappee_luna-en_panne-code_erreur_e133.htm

LMU64.002D100, BROTJE WBS22 stove - the same symptom as u cody007 - 150nF in the board had .... 37nF - the exchange did the job thanks cody007 !

Mates.
Thank you very much for the hint, I had a similar error 133, replacing the capacitor pos. 209 on the board, the value of 150 nF 250V had the intended effect. The boiler is working properly. The photos show a capacitor.
Greetings.

Mates.
Thank you very much for the hint, I had a similar error 133, replacing the capacitor pos. 209 on the board, the value of 150 nF 250V had the intended effect. The boiler is working properly. The photo shows the capacitor.
Greetings.

Hello, Thank you for the hints, the boiler is working properly, dad is jumping with delight

Did you exchange yourself or with the help of some professional? What city are You from ? I am asking for bearings to replace the capacitor. My phone number 606 212 333 - please send me a text message, e.g. with an email address or telephone number.

Ladies and Gentlemen
For me, the following symptom: when cold, the stove ignites without problems, after turning it off and trying to ignite it again (when changing the circuit (?)), It does not light again and indicates error E133. Reset doesn't help, doesn't light anymore. Cooling down for about half an hour helps. I checked the electrodes - the spark is there; I replaced the capacitor 209 - it did not help.
What could be the cause? What else to check?

I am asking for help WBS 22 year 2005; bottled gas. Recently replaced capacitor, electrode.
Recently I have a problem with the E133. The stove is set to Auto mode. I have to restart the stove every morning - it crashes me e133.
When the stove is in continuous operation (sunshine) everything is OK. What could be the reason for this?

Hello, I wanted to refresh the topic a bit. I have a WBS22 boiler and I also have error 133. I am looking for the capacitor described in the post, but I have a different version of the motherboard. I am attaching photos, maybe someone will know where to look for it or what may be the cause of the error. The symptoms are exactly the same as described in the post.

Hello,

Gentlemen, Anpor and Nikom17, have you dealt with the defect?
I have a WBC 22/24 stove, but the same thing happens, the service technician says that I already have a corrected driver when it comes to the capacitor.

Please reply.
greetings

Yes, the problem was removed, I had a newer type of board with no defective capacitor, so I had nothing to replace.
The problem was a dirty exchanger, which is not visible at first glance. Cleaning with the right reagents helped. The problem is that with a dirty exchanger, the boiler has too little air during start-up and the flame cannot form. If the boiler starts up, it means that the contamination is not large and it is catching air, but in a situation when the boiler modulates lower, i.e. reduces the fan speed of this air, it may lack it and hence the boiler fails.
In my case, a good cleaning of the exchanger did the trick. The boiler works flawlessly.

Thank you for the quick reply.
I also have a newer board where apparently the problem with the capacitor has already been removed.
The service technician replaced the electrodes and after that it was ok for a while, but after about a day the problem returned. Then the boiler was cleaned with some chemicals and the furnace worked a little longer. It all happened last winter. In the summer, when the stove only heated the water, there was no problem, but now it does not work again. The service technician was at the annual inspection, I told him about the problem, he checked the measurements, he put something up (because there was something "broken") and the stove worked as it should for a week. And unfortunately the fault has returned again. I would like to add that when the stove has a problem with proper heating, the time from the moment the hot water tap is turned off to the moment the flame appears on the display is significantly longer.

The most important thing is to see if the boiler is working when the blower is running at full power and the error occurs when the blower slows down. In my opinion, it will be a problem of poor cleaning, such cleaning is not a simple matter. Chemistry alone doesn't do the trick. You have to remove the exchanger from the boiler and clean it thoroughly. Unfortunately, Brotje designed this boiler in such a way that the gaps through which the air flows in some places narrow to the size of millimeters, which is why it is so important to clean it properly. So far, the chemicals helped me, but the service technician said that after the season I have the exchanger to be removed and rinsed. Check if the problem occurs when the blower slows down, i.e. the boiler is modulating downwards.

nikom17 wrote:

You have to remove the exchanger from the boiler and clean it thoroughly.

@ nikom17 Is such cleaning difficult? Can you do it yourself? my boiler is out of warranty and recently i started having such a bug a couple of times a week.

greetings

It is not very difficult, you just have to unscrew everything one by one, you can take photos of each stage of the decomposition. In my boiler, I did not disassemble the exchanger, I only took the burner off and sprayed the cleaning agent there. I used a spray pump for this. Then you have to rinse well with water normally from the drip tray and reinstall the burner.

Of course, cleaning on the disassembled exchanger is easier because we can get to every place, but it also worked for me. If you do not feel strong enough to disassemble, I would suggest just disassemble the burner and do as above.

I don't think I will try it myself, I would need much more guidance. For me it looks like this and I thought that the exchanger is all silver. I assume that something inside needs to be cleaned, and I can see gaskets everywhere.

Unless it is enough to remove this element with electrodes?

You disassemble the gas pipe, then the copper air pipe is the black plastic one, remove the plugs from the electrodes and you have access to the burner. Of course, you operate with the boiler turned off and the gas valve turned off.

Then you unscrew the burner, these are the small screws on the hexagon socket. When removing, be careful with the gasket so as not to damage it. Inside, there should be a fire shield on the rear wall of the combustion chamber, its damage usually clogs the exchanger. When you get there and the cover is all right, you can gently remove it and then we can easily rinse the exchanger as I wrote, first with chemicals and then with ordinary water.

The procedure is quite simple.

It may turn out that the seals under the gas pipe will need to be replaced because these are copper seals.

After reassembling and firing up the boiler, you need to check for gas leaks under the gas pipe.

And write to me what area are you from?

Sorry for no reply but I was away.

From the description, it is actually not complicated, but probably due to the fact that the gas tightness is checked and the gaskets can be replaced, I will leave it to a specialist.
@ nikom17 thanks for the tips. I am from Nadarzyn, south of Warsaw.

@ nikom17 did you show the flame at all, did you ignite?
Because I hear a spark, ignition occurs, everything lights up nicely but as if the spark does not stop popping (as far as my deaf ear can catch it ) and after a while it goes out and crashes the error. Looking at the controller status on the display, it shows 3, then 6, then 22 and repeats it 3 times, if it fails, the last time after 22 shows 99 and E133 crashes on the display. That is why I am more inclined to the version with a condenser, not an exchanger. @gramir @Kristek @ cody007 Have you also had such a symptom?
I haven't discovered the album yet, so I don't even know what version I have, and the stove was assembled in 2010.

Check
1. The color of this capacitor (blue bad, gray ok)
2. Capacitor capacity
3. Correct connection of phase and protective conductor
4. Protective conductor on the electrodes, if properly connected
5. Zayer, what kind of cauldron do you have? In the E and F series, the capacitor problem no longer exists

Ad. 1 and 2 as in the attached photo.
AD. 3. The furnace worked for many years and no one changed the poles. The fault progressed gradually.
AD. 4. Yes, everything`s fine.
AD. 5. Version C

Welcome,

It is a blue capacitor plate.
You need to check in the diagnosis menu what ionization current sees the boiler during operation and what it actually is (a meter)
There is a special repair board for it, then you do not interfere with the motherboard. This is important because there are boiler protections on the motherboard. For example, before opening the gas valve, or controlling the burner modulation.
One of them is broken, hence the error.
The plate costs PLN 284,
You can put it on, but on condition that it is definitely the fault of the motherboard, not the exchanger.
You only put it under the motherboard.
The new original album costs PLN 1,450.

As for the exchanger, try to dry clean it every year
Is this a wbc or wbs boiler?

Krzyzak11

krzyzak11 wrote:

and what is in reality (the measure)

And where and during ignition?

krzyzak11 wrote:

The plate costs PLN 284,

Can you provide a link where I can buy it?

krzyzak11 wrote:

As for the exchanger, try to dry clean it every year

Where can I buy such a medium and probably the more important seals if they need to be replaced?

This is wbs.

The only distributor of Brotje in Poland is BimsPlus.
But they sell parts only to Authorized Service Providers - and this is the only channel for these parts.

it is a rectangular blue capacitor at the transformer (black). It's marked 150nMBX6

When it comes to chemistry, this is Kamix FS http://www.kamix.pl/przemysl/produkty/kamix-fs
This agent is certified by Brotje.

greet
Krzyzak11