Achieving a Smooth, Uniform Color on Sanded OSB Boards - Paint and Primer Suggestions

Hello.

How and with what to paint the OSB board to obtain a well-covering layer? The boards are slotted so that the surface is smooth, the characteristic OSB texture is almost absent (I will putty and sand even to achieve a 100% smooth surface) and I would like to paint them in a uniform color so that the material cannot be seen. What paint to use for this? Priming it with something?

Thank you in advance for your response.

I would coat it with unigrunt, white undercoat (even the cheapest from large DIY stores) and you can leave it white as you like or paint it with any paint (the most ordinary water or latex).

Such normal as for walls?

Use primers and chemically curing paints, otherwise you will have the "shadow" of the OSB texture piercing through many layers.

saskia wrote:

Use primers and chemically curing paints, otherwise you will have the "shadow" of the OSB texture piercing through many layers.

Can you write more precisely what paints it is about? I mean the manufacturer, type etc. because there are certainly many types of chemically hardening paints. It seemed to me that the wall paints hide all the 'shadows' quite well ...

What did you use this OSB board for, that you need to smooth it now?
What did you putty on them?
OSB boards and other wood-based boards foam on the surface after applying paint, both with water and solvents. You must first cut off the access to the topcoat paints from the board so that the subsequent layers do not cause the wood to swell.
Usually, when I want to cut off the plate (its texture) from the remaining layers of paint, I use a polymer resin diluted with acetone as a primer, sand it, if a piece of the plate comes out on the surface, I paint it again with the resin. After sanding, primers and other topcoats can be applied.
Chemically hardening paints work like resins, they do not harden by drying, but become hard due to chemical reactions.
Emulsion wall paints will require an oil putty primer after drying and sanding, which you can already use emulsions. Linseed oil, skillfully used, is also a good intermediary between such different layers.
Be sure to read the warning on the packaging when using varnish. Easily ignite. I will not explain the details, so that someone does not think something stupid. :-)

Once in the country was commonly used for a similar purpose nitro varnish, the so-called Capon or Kapon. only that it had to be a lot of wear. It was applied directly to the wood, and after drying, it blocked the squeezing of the top lacquer into the wood, which reduced its wear, because it was several times more expensive.
Several layers were required to completely block the wood.

I do not know the names of domestic chemosetting products and their manufacturers, maybe some of my colleagues will recommend something.

saskia wrote:

What did you use this OSB board for, that you need to smooth it now?
What did you putty on them?
OSB boards and other wood-based boards foam on the surface after applying paint, both with water and solvents. You must first cut off the access to the topcoat paints from the board so that the subsequent layers do not cause the wood to swell.
Usually, when I want to cut off the plate (its texture) from the remaining layers of paint, I use a polymer resin diluted with acetone as a primer, sand it, if a piece of the plate comes out on the surface, I paint it again with the resin. After sanding, primers and other topcoats can be applied.
Chemically hardening paints work like resins, they do not harden by drying, but become hard due to chemical reactions.
Emulsion wall paints will require an oil putty primer after drying and sanding, which you can already use emulsions. Linseed oil, skillfully used, is also a good intermediary between such different layers.
Be sure to read the warning on the packaging when using varnish. Easily ignite. I will not explain the details so that someone does not think of something stupid. :-)

Once in the country was commonly used for a similar purpose nitro varnish, the so-called Capon or Kapon. only that it had to be a lot of wear. It was applied directly to the wood, and after drying, it blocked the squeezing of the top lacquer into the wood, which reduced its wear, because it was several times more expensive.
Several layers were required to completely block the wood.

I do not know the names of domestic chemosetting products and their manufacturers, maybe some of my colleagues will recommend something.

I made the loudspeakers from OSB (OSB-3, to be precise). Initially I wanted to veneer them, however the concept has changed and I would like to paint them. Previously, I only dealt with blanket / carpeted speakers, so these techniques are quite alien to me. Does the fact that it is a waterproof plate change anything?

The boards, after being put together, were smoothed with acrylic putty for wood. Colorless, that is, white. Of course, it is not applied evenly, but only in the recesses in the OSB and ground evenly with the whole. Due to the noticeable shrinkage of this layer, I put it several times and I have to do it again.

So I have to prime the putty wood with something. Are you writing about a polymer resin, what exactly do you mean? polyester? I'd rather not go into anything that is chemically cured. Kapon varnish is still available - http://www.farbykolor.pl/lakier-kapon-super-do-drewna-p138.html - as long as that is what it is all about. Is applying such a layer or two (with sanding in between, after drying) enough to cut off the wood well? Can I dilute paint capon? There are dedicated thinners for this.

The ideal for me would be a finish that looks like a piano lacquer, but I know how time-consuming it is, so I let it go. Especially that this speaker system is not worth it . Most likely, I would apply several layers of paint to the prepared surface and, after drying, a clear varnish. What should this paint be like? what varnish? I mean types .

Thanks in advance for your answers. I see that you have a lot of knowledge in this field.

Waterproof boards are usually made on the basis of waterproof glue, and OSB boards are additionally coated with wax, which often interferes with painting.
Acetone removes it easily.
But since you have already applied the putty and nothing is happening to it, it probably "caught" the wood well. You can check it by gently heating the grinder, if it goes away, it means that the wax was there and the putty only "sucked" and not stuck to the plate.
If it's OK. then align the surfaces of the putty exactly, with the one you have already used, so as not to mix extra.
As soon as you can no longer see the wood after sanding, put 2 layers of primer, sand and 1 layer of primer, also acrylic. After smoothing, there should be no problem with the plate texture clearances. Be careful with the undercoat as most undercoats cannot be sanded anymore (rubbery consistency when dry), so it's best to smooth the surfaces well before the undercoat.
Remember to dry the individual layers well and smooth each layer more and more with finer sandpaper and vacuum (wipe with a cloth or blow the dust with compressed air), before applying each subsequent layer. Paper 240 already gives a slight gloss effect.

I do not know what you will be applying the topcoat, it would be best to spray it, but if you do not have spray equipment, use a good quality brush. tracer. After applying and evenly distributing the paint, gently draw the ends of the tracer at a sharp angle to the surface of the plate, wall from one edge with one run to the other, once at a time and always in the same direction on a given plane. During smoothing, the paint should still be sufficiently wet over the entire surface, so you need to check the time of thickening and formation of the so-called peelings on the surface of the paint, especially acrylic paint, so that you can smooth it before the paint peels. Otherwise, a rough surface, like groats, or the clear traces of a brush will remain.

The more layers, the better the finish. I have already made MDF furniture, finished to a high gloss with a car varnish (such a customer's request), and the whole with a primer and adapters, it was 1.5mm thick. :-)

Before you start with painting, you should ask on the forum about the acoustic properties of paint finishes of individual types of paints, because this may affect the sound quality and acoustics, not only the disc (box) and the loudspeaker.

Added after 22 [minutes]:

I am not sure what the different layers of paint are called in the country, so I have a specific name for it.
The putty, if it is needed for leveling, is always used on the raw material, on the putty you put the priming paint, on the priming putty, and on the topcoat.
You can, if necessary, use a putty on the primer paint to compensate for unevenness or scratches that have not been noticed before, but then you need to cover it with the next layer of primer between the base and the topcoat, you should not give anything anymore, that is, the surface should be sufficient under the base coat. aligned.

Added after 36 [minutes]:

Kapon is a nitro varnish, so it cannot be used on other paints than nitro, on the contrary, you can use oil paints on nitro, etc.
What he says in the link about using Kapon as a base for polyurethane varnishes is incomplete information, because under water-based polyurethane varnishes it must be matted with fine sandpaper or metal chips, and the base is rarely sanded.
You don't give it anymore because you'll make a fuss and you don't know how your putty will react to it.

The putty sticks to the surface of OSB-3 well, nothing flakes off or peels off, regardless of the treatment. Okay, so as I understand on a smooth sand putty I give a primer (what?) A primer for this (white acrylic? Can there be a white emulsion, such as for walls?) And a topcoat (here I would also like to put an emulsion or a latex one) . I would like to apply a clearcoat on top of it to obtain a gloss, but I do not know what varnish. Would you recommend something?

In general, I already understand what's going on, but the basic problem is that I still don't know how to choose the paints I don't even mean the brands, but the type. In addition, it should be something available, for example, in DIY stores, because I do not know where I have other stores with such materials .

As for the application of paints, you would really like to spray them, but it probably won't work - I don't have the conditions for that. I thought to apply emulsions with a roller, a primer with a brush and sand.

It is here that it is impossible to give precise directions from a distance due to the variety of acrylic paints and the differences between manufacturers.
I recommend the companies Crown and Dulux. Avoid the so-called paints. 2 in one, that is e.g. primer and primer, or covering one layer, because these are inventions for the lazy who just want to smear the paint on the wall to give it a fresher appearance.
I don't know if anyone pays attention to it, but about 95% of professional wood paints are oil paints.

If you started with acrylic, the easiest way to finish is to use acrylic.
As I wrote earlier, some primers, especially acrylic ones and the "2 in one" ones, dry up to create a rubbery coating, which cannot be improved by grinding (they make rolls under the paper).
Consult a local painter for which paints match my descriptions.

Okay, so first I have to finish the putty anyway. What do you think about such a foundation:

http://www.klakiernik.pl/Podklad_akrylowy_wypelniajacy_41_PROTECT300_NOVOL_kpl_1L-9.html

or such

http://www.klakiernik.pl/Podklad_Akrylowy_MOTIP_Spray_200ml-296.html

Which would be better? I have a shop selling MOTIP articles at hand (e.g. it is tempting - http://allegro.pl/motip-zecja-lakier-podkladowy-akrylowy-bezbarwny-i3417408973.html), so it's nice if its products are suitable for my applications .

It is the Polish nomenclature of the type of paint that is killing me.
See the description below (in the middle of the page) in the link
http://allegro.pl/motip-zecja-lakier-podkladowy-akrylowy-bezbarwny-i3417408973.html
I write rams that the first one is a primer, and there it clearly writes "PRIMER" on the can, and the primer is a primer, not a primer. The English base is "Undercoat".
In the English version, the order described in the previous post will be; filler, primer, undercoat, top coat.

And precisely because of such errors in Polish trade, I am not able to tell you precisely which paint is better and for what.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

Do not buy in the spray, because for a 200ml can it is only about 50ml of paint, the rest is gas that gives pressure.

This can tell you what paints to look for (in English), and so most paints have English names written on them. As I understand, the filler is a putty, right?

Do I need to apply undercoat if the primer is gray and I want to apply a light color?

I wrote before, several layers. If you miss one of the layers, you won't have good quality. You have the English names for the layers above, top coat is a topcoat (finishing coat), and filler is putty.
All these layers are for the paint to stick to the painted material, but at the same time they are a transition between different materials (from the base to the topcoat) so that nothing comes off or stains later.

Added after 14 [minutes]:

Even when you renew the old painting, you sand (mat) the old topcoat (it often peels off or flakes off), primer and possibly fly with filler, after which you paint again with primer, sand, undercoat and topcoat it ( finisher).
This is just a painting standard.
The main job of painting is to prepare the substrate for the finish paint, and not, as most people think, that it is just smearing the paint. :-)

Added after 20 [minutes]:

To make it easier for you to remember and understand, imagine that painting is like building a house, and the topcoat is tiles on the roof. To be able to lay these tiles, you need to first pour the foundation (putty), build the walls on it (primer), then the roof truss (primer) and then put a nice tile on it.
If you put this tile on the ground, they all fall over after a few rains.

One quick question - can I put a chemically hardening putty (Novol Finish) on the one-component acrylic putty? The Novol card states that the putty should not be applied directly to one-component acrylic products. Two-component are ok. Is it about paints or just putty? If you can't directly, what do you put in between? I came to the conclusion that I will not get the surface and angles / edges as I want with the same acrylic putty I use.

And if I can directly, do I have to degrease it before applying it, if I sand the acrylic putty (P180 or even less) directly in front of it?

Thanks in advance for your answer .

This is exactly what the primers are for.
Hem-curing putties are harder, so even a primer may not be enough.
As with paints, oil can be painted with nitro, but not the other way around. You can use a firmer putty on a hard one, but the opposite (apart from chemical reactions between them) should not be done, because a hard putty may (but does not have to) peel off the soft or crack it.
I just mentioned using one type of material early on.

What edges do you mean, strong, hard or just at an equal angle.
I don't know how you grind, but the type of grinder can also be important.
Rotary grinders have a tendency to undulate the edges of the disc and to cut (round) the edges more deeply. To have sharper corners, it is better to use an oscillating square foot, or by hand finishing the corners with paper on a hard ankle.

What type of primer would be needed here? Acrylic or like a putty (polyester, I think)? I understand the idea of peeling off the layer, but if the acrylic is really well dried and the putty on top has minimal shrinkage, it shouldn't come off? Because it will stick, right? Will it fall off in principle?

Is it important to stick to one manufacturer for the entire coating or can you use different materials for different layers, as long as compatible materials (e.g. only acrylic)?

I only sand the ankle by hand. The edges are at right angles, like in a box.

Can I apply spray putty gently with a brush or (preferably) a roller? If so, what?

Thanks for the help. The industry is becoming more and more interesting, as I can see.

If you use products from one manufacturer, they usually make sure that their paints of the same type produce the best results, but most manufacturers use similar technologies and materials.
If you start choosing paints and their types by yourself, then before you gain experience and practice, you will write it a bit.
You have to consider many areas, chemistry, physics, material properties, types of paints and their application, methods of application, grinding, polishing, etc.

This exfoliation is not just about adhesion, but about the work of the substrate you paint.
Every material works, under the influence of temperature and humidity, even granite bends.
Acrylic is unlikely to react with the chemically hardening putty, it is only too soft as a base for it. But the primer should be dry and well before applying the putty. degreasing makes sense if you paint old surfaces, and if you touch the surface with your sweaty fingers after sanding.
You can manipulate (reduce) the hardness of a chemically curing putty to some extent by reducing the amount of hardener, but this involves a much longer hardening time before it can be sanded.
You need to choose these amounts of hardener yourself experimentally, so that the putty is slightly softer, but still able to enter into good hardening reactions and does not remain sticky and smudging.
In such cases, I give about 1/3 of the recommended amount, and the hardening time is 3-4 times longer.


Most paints and fillers can be applied with any of the methods. The only differences are in the texture of the layer.
Of course, applying a brush gives better contact (rubbing) of the new layer, but not always gives the desired effect, especially on the last layer, and is more labor-intensive and time-consuming.

I do not know if you have access to a gun, you asked if you can use a roller or a brush, so I conclude that you do not ...

I used to put a few pieces of furniture made to measure of MDF, with fragments of ordinary chipboard, and osb (missing MDF due to a cutting error) once, but quite thickly, with an ordinary acrylic putty for furniture, then leveled everything with an orbital sander.

After painting with phthalic enamel, some structure showed through the putty on the osb board.

I was wondering what to do, I was thinking about a putty with a spray gun and phthalic enamel again, but walking around the store I came across Novol textured paint.

I applied two layers with the gun (after tarnishing the phthalate) and to be honest, I expected a much worse effect, the surface turned out very nice.

The downside of this varnish is that they were only black, so the next day I went and bought another varnish in the appropriate color, although originally I wanted to paint it with phthalic enamel again.

I do not know what type it was, I suspect that acrylic, I worried the seller about everything, especially since I wanted to make sure that there would be no reaction on the phthalic enamel, because when I was painting with some phthalic varnish on phthalate, bubbles appeared during painting and everything started peel off.

The structure is aesthetic, very fine, although it depends on the gun settings and the distance from which we paint. Better to start with less visible elements to get to some practice. Most importantly, it covered all "defects" that occurred during production Furniture painted in this way is used in the bathroom and so far there are no signs of wear and nothing comes off and does not swell as in the case of veneered boards, so I wonder if I should paint a few other things in this way.

Saskia, but what primer? Acrylic?

If you want to use a hard putty on acrylic, it would be appropriate to make the foundation also harder, but acrylic can be also if you already compromise.
Pull on the whole surface later with this putty, because you will not even out if you leave part of the surface soft. The paper will pick the soft one faster, and the hard one will stick higher next to it. This is another reason to use the hard one first and the soft one on it, not the other way around.

It seems that I accidentally started to conduct painting training here, step by step.

Compromises and experiments are something I like. It's good that I can use this primer, because I will use it for putty, under paints anyway.

I don't know if I asked about it exactly, but I don't think I got an answer - how is it with this spray putty? in terms of the smoothness of the surface obtained. I would like to apply the Motipa spray filler (http://www.motipdupli.de/?L=2&id=1680) on the Novol Finish putty (http://professional.novol.pl/szpachlowka_wykanczajaca_FINISH.html) because the Novola product is recommended for sanding P320 and Motipa putty supposedly for P2000 (I do not know where I found such info). This will allow me to obtain a smoother surface - ultimately I would like to be as glossy as possible. Does it understand well?

Painting training is an interesting thing are you able to recommend any literature on this topic? In Polish or English.

Looks like you won't need a topcoat if you want to sand putty with 2000 grit. :-)

Don't worry about smoothing the putty to such an extent, the gloss is to be done by the topcoat, not the undercoat.
You paint the wrong color or the wrong paint and the result will be worse than 320 paper.

saskia wrote:

Looks like you won't need a topcoat if you want to sand putty with 2000 grit. :-)

Don't worry about smoothing the putty to such an extent, the gloss is to be done by the topcoat, not the undercoat.
You paint the wrong color or the wrong paint and the result will be worse than 320 paper.

So how many to sand the putty to? P220? P400 (I have such papers).

400 is already a revival. 320 is enough.

Ok, I will have to buy some more paper before work. Anything else to watch out for? I'll show you when I'm done putty.