Volvo V50 2006 2.0D Engine: Starter Not Spinning, BROMSFEL & EL. STARTSPÄRR Error Messages

Hello
Volvo V50, year 2006, 2.0D engine
after parking the car and trying to start it after 2 hours, the starter does not spin and there are errors
1) BROMSFEL STANNA SNARAST
2) EL. STARTSPÄRR SE MANUAL
the key works, you can hear the unlocking of the steering wheel
everything works inside - radio, air conditioning, controls
on the rope, it starts but only works at idle and does not respond to the accelerator pedal.
Do you have any ideas what could be causing this behavior.

Starter relay, check that it is = when trying to start
+12 on the solenoid if it is a faulty starter if there is no relay or ignition or some cut off

The box sometimes not automatic?

manual gearbox

There it says to look at the manual, maybe it's worth it??

I agree, but unfortunately I don't have the manual

The easiest way is to do diagnostics for a symbolic 50, it can say a lot why there is no permission to start. Smoking on a string is not for today, buddy.

The signal from the ignition cube 50 goes to the CEM module pin A42 and then from pin E9 to the relay (k-111) in the fuse box. in the engine compartment, first on the left by the large plug. Check if the pin. no. 1 relay then gets voltage.
Stick with the clutch depressed.

voltage is applied to the relay.
I opened the relay and when I turn it on manually, the starter turns.
I changed the relay but no change

Where is the voltage on the relay coming from; on the relay coil or on the working contacts?
What I described is its control - on the relay coil.

voltage is on pin 1

In this case, there is no mass on the other side of the relay coil - check if the pin number matches what the program gives, because sometimes there are mistakes.
Are you pressing the clutch when starting?

clutch depressed when trying to start the engine.
on the pins is:
Pin No. 1. Positive voltage at start-up (key switch item 3)
Pin No. 2. no voltage and ground
Pin No. 3. Constant positive voltage
Pin #4. no pin
Pin No. 5. ground

1 - correctly
2 - ground is provided by the ECU engine controller, black and red wire, check fuse no. 41 (15 A), 8th from the right in the top row.
3.12V direct from 30 (battery) via fuse no. 12 (30A)
5. output to the starter motor.
4 - empty
From this it follows that the ECU does not give mass to the relay coil (pin2).
Got a second key?
I would look for damage in the ECU - diagnosis is necessary.

Bajpasik mass and the car is whizzing.

So what if we give the mass bypass, as after starting it works only at idle speed, it does not react to the gas pedal!

Colleagues, I would not like to interfere, but why do such stalking, some combinations, etc. The repair had to start with a diagnosis with a tester and then combine.
The first error indicates "brake failure" and the ecu blocks starting.

Let him write what he did after turning off, he probably replaced the cabin and cut the cable from the gas pedal!!

after turning off the car, nothing was done, when you try to restart it is as described in the topic

and the ignition cube checked?

Benyy, read post 13 and 14!!!

Diagnostics, EC U definitely saved the error.

Hello,

I don't want to start another topic because I have a similar problem, but I have some doubts.
The problem is with the Volvo S40 II 2.0D so it's the same as the V50.
I found a wiring diagram which is attached.

Of course, the problem concerns the lack of reaction of the starter to the key position in position III. After turning the key to position 3, I hear the sound of the microswitch in the ignition switch, so I have doubts about its damage. Checks I made:
- There is no 12 V voltage on the starter solenoid coil during start-up. I unzipped the 64/90 cube and measured the voltage there.
- After turning the key to position II and applying voltage to the cube 64/90 (electromagnet) directly from the battery, the car starts and can be driven. I drove about 5 km.
- The connection between the block 64/90 and pin 5 of the R13 relay is OK.
- There is 12 V on pin 3 of relay R13
- There is no voltage on pins 1 and 2 of relay R13. Both are around 0.15 volts at start up.

I presume that this is the fault of the ignition, because the diagram shows that pin 50 of the ignition is connected directly to pin 1 of the relay. It's the ignition that gives 12 V there, right?

Yes. replace the ignition cube it breaks down very often.

Is it enough to just replace the ankle? Or the entire station?
And is it normal that there were no signs before?

Just the ankle, no symptoms before.

Hello. I'm reviving this topic because I have the same problem. Everything indicates damage to the ignition - by manually shorting the relay contacts, the car starts. Applying voltage from the outside to pin No. 1 of the relay with the key in position III and the clutch pressed, the car starts. Ignition removed and dismantled. No visible damage in the style of something broken, something burnt. My question, what do you understand by the term ignition cube. There is no classic cube here as in most cars. There are two plugs coming out of the ignition. One 7 pin and the other 3 pin. Inside there is a board with electronics, that's it. Is the entire ignition switch to be replaced in this case? I am asking because I was told PLN 850 for the ignition and I would not really like to see that it is something else.

Hi. Look for bargains on a well-known auction site. I bought it. The old one showed no signs of wear either. You do not need to program the computer when replacing the ignition

Thanks. I've never had this type of problem with a Volvo, so I took the liberty of asking. Especially since the subject is a bit slippery for me. The customer brought the car for a completely different fault. I just did a test drive and after turning it off, it was as in the subject. It is hard to explain to the customer that it is lighter by another thousand for the ignition and replacement. And one more thing. After replacing this ignition with keys, will the central work normally or do I need to program something?

you don't have to do anything, just put in a new ignition and use the old original key

Exactly. The ignition switch is just a relay that transmits data from the key to the computer. All you have to do is replace the ignition, I know, because I had the same thing at home.