Electrolux Beam BM285EA vacuum cleaner - turns on for about 5 seconds, damaged m

Hello
I am looking for a diagram or information regarding the 312430 module for an Electrolux central vacuum cleaner. The module turns on the engine for about 5 seconds. Then it turns off and the light goes out. The converter gives 5 V all the time. The triac has been replaced. I want to fix it because the price of a new one is a deterrent.
Please help and suggestions.
Regards

PIOTREL wrote:

the price of a new one

A new module or a vacuum cleaner?
Take good photos of the controller from both sides - maybe I'll associate something.

Hello
The price of the new module knocks down, not to mention the vacuum cleaner.

Yesterday I managed to fix the Elektrolux 312430 board, maybe I could help. I forgot to add that the automatic switching on of the vacuum cleaner (shortly and with low revolutions) is sometimes caused by moisture in the central vacuum sockets and it does not mean damage to the control board.

Hello
I will gladly accept any suggestion, any help. I don't have any humidity, so that won't be the cause.
Buddy @lm741, what was your problem?

Recently, I had to deal with the damage of the surge protector. The varistor exploded and vaporized part of the copper track. Since the vacuum cleaner is usually connected to the power supply in standby mode, continuously throughout the year, it is exposed to any overvoltage. Therefore, nowadays, because we have more and more such delicate electronic circuits switched on all the time, it should be mandatory to install appropriate protections in the home switchgear.
In previous repairs, I replaced various elements, it would be difficult for me to list them here. If you don't have a schematic, you need to take a meter and systematically check all of them. One day should be enough.

Unfortunately I don't have a schematic.
Visually and with a meter, I checked these components as much as I could.
Unfortunately, the engine continues to run for a few seconds. When the engine is turned off, the light next to the button also goes out. Then everything locks up and you can't do anything. After turning the power back on, it can be turned on again, but also only for a few seconds.

Approx. If, without a schematic, you want to repair it yourself, I suggest looking at the system as a collection of independent electronic components and checking them one by one, without exception. Some will have to be soldered, otherwise the meter will not show true values. And do not stop after finding the first damaged element, but keep checking until the end. I used to replace 5 items. As I mentioned, one day should be enough. Please do not use a transformer soldering iron, because the board is quite delicate.

I have exactly the same problem. I have the impression that I exaggerated with vacuuming the dust after the renovation and when the bag got a little clogged, problems began from then on. I'd like to have someone repair the module.

Recently, this board also fell on me, I don't know what exactly, but the symptom is similar to the one described above, i.e. when you try to start, the diode goes out, the engine does not even start. I removed the board in its entirety and temporarily connect the motor for a short time. I am now going to replace this module with two elements, firstly a 12/250V relay, plus a 12V power supply, and the second element is a soft-start for electric motors. Estimated costs should be in the range of PLN 30, not almost 500.

I already have a new vacuum cleaner control system, as described above. everything works beautifully. I used an old laptop power supply, a relay for PLN 4.5, and a soft-start for PLN 10.

Recently I had a similar situation with SC 385.
The board alone is over $400. After a short inspection and measurements, I found that I do not have time to look for a fault.
A post by @bardan helped me.
Old power supply (on the converter) for charging batteries for 12 V, found a 12 V relay (contacts for 230 V / 10 A) + diode in parallel to the coil, soft-start for PLN 11 and an additional switch on the vacuum cleaner instead of a contact with a diode.
Everything works. Only this idea has no gears - step adjustment of engine power (compared to the original), but in practice useless as for us.
The advantage is that now it consumes less power at rest due to the power supply itself on the converter (below 1W), which results in savings of PLN 5-10 per year.
Thank you for your help.

I have a Beam SC 335 controller to repair. Similar symptoms, i.e. the LED lights up for a few seconds and goes out. The reason is probably the circuit responsible for controlling the zero crossing voltage based on the MPSA44 transistor and the 4N35 optocoupler. DC voltage comes out instead of a square wave. Unfortunately, during the measurements, I burned a couple of resistors.

A request to the owners of such a controller to read the values of the resistors R4, R21, R22. Where to buy 4N35 SMD?

I also have such a module to repair with the same symptoms and I have a question if the replacement of 4N35 and MPSA44 helped? As for the values of the resistors, I have them visible because they are not burned, so I can give their values.

Replacing this circuit and the transistor helped me. The topic of resistors is no longer valid. I soldered all three 1 k? and it works. After replacement, you can check the waveforms at the output with an oscilloscope.

I replaced the optocoupler and the transistor, although after desoldering I tested both elements and they were functional, it's still the same.
Subjectively, I can only say that the shutdown time increased by 2 seconds after the replacement, but I guess it's just my imagination.
The strange thing is that after shutdown you have to turn off the entire power supply so that the 5V supply voltage is gone to reset and restart the logic.
From this it follows that the soft start control blocks the entire system in the event of errors in its operation.

The whole system is controlled by the processor and probably as long as it has power, it remembers that something is wrong. An oscilloscope that shows the waveform at the output of the optocoupler would be helpful. There may also be other damage. The processor also receives information about the voltage of 5 V and 230 V supplying the triac through the transformer and lm comparator. You have to search.

I have pulses at the output of the optocoupler until the triac is working. After a few seconds, the triac closes and I no longer have pulses at the output of the optocoupler. I checked all passive and active elements in the optocoupler start system and they are OK according to the values given on their housings (regards resistors). I have a stable voltage of 5 V all the time. I suspect that MPSA44 is clogging and blocking the triac control.

On the 4N35 output, there should be a sine wave all the time after switching on to the network. Please also check the paths from Ti through D8, R14, R19, R20 and further, because this is also probably a voltage control.

Can someone tell me the type of T6 triac?

T6 BTA140-800
Are you sure it's a sine wave? If I have a rectangle? Anyone else fix it?

Hello! Mine got really burned as U can see. Do U guys have any ideas where I can buy a new one, that is not to expensive??

Someone help, after 3 years he shot me again.

Ehhh, I just got it. The LED flashes for 2 seconds and goes off. Someone solved the problem?

Identical problem, the LED lights up for 2 seconds and goes out, the system did not respond to anything.

Replacing 4N35 and MPSA44 helped. Now, after connecting the power supply, the LED is on all the time, and pressing ON / OFF or shorting the "speaker" contacts activates the soft-start and the 40 W bulb connected to the triac brightens. It is true that after a few seconds, when it is fully brightened, the bulb goes out, but I hope that the vacuum cleaner motor will be ok.

The board is nasty to repair, strangely constructed, difficult to disassemble and solder, everything covered with varnish. I would not repair it a second time, just buy a new one (they are available for about PLN 500 gross, xxl vacuum cleaners shop or something like that).

The bulb is too small for testing, and the motor will be ok.

Already checked, the engine is ok

Can anyone give me the value of c10?
It looks like that's the only thing broken.

Hello. I need the marking of transistor Q2. Thank you

krzysztofswider3791 wrote:

I need the marking of transistor Q2

So where does one exist in your area?
Edit:
Whether this?