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Metal vs. Teflon sliding gate racks: Which one is better for your gate set?

spider_net 18513 2
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16744180
    spider_net
    Level 19  
    I would like to refresh the topic a bit because I am at the stage of searching the sliding gate set and here a "question mark" appeared. I came across offers from:
    1. a metal rack with sleeves or
    2. Teflon toothed rack with screws
    Can any of you explain to me what are the differences and what arguments speak for each strip?
    Moderated By suworow:


    I separated into a new topic and gave it a new title

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  • #2 16744206
    kotbury
    Gantry automation specialist
    1. metal rack with sleeves:
    Classic - noisy, galvanized (where the galvanization wipes off - it will start to rust). And maybe more wear than plastic (but let those who assembled them say - I had few plastic ones) but certainly more resistant to impacts and strong pressure than plastic - for gates say from 200 kg up. In industrial applications and harsh conditions, only metal ones are used, and for large gates, additionally thickened.
    2. teflon toothed rack with screws:
    It's not made of teflon, but reinforced polyamide or nylon and has a metal insert, besides there are two types - "slimmed" and full thickness - if it comes in - I would take the thicker one
    It is much quieter than metal, of course it does not rust and is more resistant to abrasion than "lubrication" with sand, but it is a material which (despite the thin metal core) has lower shear strength than steel.
    I would use in home gates, exposed to water splashes, but lighter ones - up to 200 kg.

    There is the issue of fasteners: - the steel one is mounted to the bushes, which in the simplest (but the strongest) version are simply welded to the gate's guide profile - to the detriment of the gate's anti-corrosive coating - if it is ordinary painted - nothing happens - welds are protected with liquid zinc, undercoat, paints and that's it. If the gate is galvanized or / and powder painted - the stairs begin. For such cases, here on the forum were descriptions of the use of various patents of the rivet nut or even threading holes in the profile wall and screwing through the bushes and the profile wall of closely matching pins - and both are not sure. And another difficulty - these patents can not interfere inside the profile with the horizontal roller of the guide carriage.
    Fixing plastic strips is (in theory) simpler - it is simply screwed to the profile with self-drilling screws (and this fact limits the use of such strips for light gates - and to the statement found in the descriptions: "up to 600 kg" I would approach carefully) and here the advantage: clean assembly without welding, the disadvantage - the same as described above - must be assembled so that the screwed part of the screw does not interfere inside the profile with the guide roller (of course, you can mount it like steel, ignoring the factory fastenings - through the bushes - only carefully with welding nearby - after all it's plastic ...).

    So if you have a light gate - try plastic (considering the pros and cons of mounting methods). You can always (if it does not work) mount metal.
  • #3 20071609
    sjbiuro
    Level 1  
    I installed 10 steel - 3 threading (for heavy craftsmanship), 7 welding (then galvanization, primer and paint) I use migomat I love this solution because if only the gate is a bit bent, it is worse welded, it is a more forgiving solution for the Drive and the gate will work better,

    1 nylon lisgwe 7m at the gate, about 500 kg for fastened screws, today I was servicing, I am totally discouraged from screwing the screws and mounting nylon on it because it does not stick steadily, sounds also make, and the places where the screws are screwed in for fastening rotten and there was no even how to tighten a farmer with a thread thickness of 6mm
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