Installing Steel Strip on Sliding Gate (250kg) Without Welding: Alternative Methods & Techniques

I am asking for advice from professionals regarding the installation of a steel strip to a sliding gate as shown in the photo
Welding is not an option, gate 250 kg galvanized and powder coated.

1). Is it better to drill and thread the bottom profile (4mm thick) in which the carriages run (its axis is about 13cm from the horizontal), finally screw it using a threaded rod so that it does not protrude in the middle?
There would be no problem with mounting the drive itself to the ground (height according to FAAC740 instructions)

2.) Should the batten be mounted to the profile higher (its axis 28cm from the horizontal), then I could drill it through and screw it on. I would have to make an additional structure for the drive, possibly an additional foundation.

Or maybe some other solution.




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Second question: I only use one button (barrier), will a (cheaper) two-channel remote control work in this situation?

While browsing the internet, I saw that a lot of similar remotes also work at 433MHz. This is somestandard in this field? Are such remotes interchangeable with each other?

A nylon strip is screwed to the closed profile (the one above the trolleys), and lift the drive itself.

Unfortunately, I have already bought a steel strip.

How can you give it back and buy a nylon one. It will be easier to mount and it will be quieter.

I can't give back. I would have to buy separately.

Well, you are left with your second option:

grejfrutek wrote:

2.) Should the batten be mounted to the profile higher (its axis 28cm from the horizontal), then I could drill it through and screw it on. I would have to make an additional structure for the drive, possibly an additional foundation.

By the way, if you were in your place, I would choose to weld these bushings from the strip.

But when it comes to welding, to that bottom profile with carriages?

You can go to the bottom and to the top. how convenient for you.

The upper profile is set back in relation to the beam by about 15mm. Before making a decision, check that the toothed wheel (and its cover that can be unscrewed) will not collide with the road beam.
Secondly - check whether the rack bar plus the screw with the washer and the installed end switch will fit between the running beam and the supporting post. If so, I would mount the slat to the running beam by drilling and threading. I would not weld the sleeves to the strip because you would deprive yourself of zinc and adjustments.

And as for the mounting in the profile (not the rolling one because they protrude inside the profile, unless right at the top edge of the profile, so that they do not interfere with the horizontal or vertical guide rollers), try rivet nuts, e.g. - http://www.wojtech.com. en / products / rivet nuts / (they can be tightened without a riveting tool - a regular one - maybe a little harder than 5.6 - with a bolt with a nut and washer)

Marek J. wrote:

Secondly - check whether the rack bar plus the screw with the washer and the installed end switch will fit between the running beam and the supporting post.

However, the limit switch does not fit. 5mm is missing. Therefore, it remains to be mounted to this profile above. Rather, I will drill it through and screw it together.

I will give plugs from the outside.

I thought so looking at the photo ...
Just remember to measure the rack so that it does not rub against the beam because the higher profile is set back.

Thanks, I checked, it won't spawn. There is a place. So I am getting down to making a construction for the drive.

I had something similar recently, I made the foundation, it was probably the fastest and the cost was not terrible, all PLN 10, and a bit of iron for the foundation.
It was too low too.

1). I mounted the drive on a 10mm stainless steel structure.

2). I attached the steel strip to the profile using rivet nuts.
The work requires a lot of precision and is time-consuming if you want to do it very accurately and if it's the first time (as in my case).
I replaced the original spacers with made of stainless steel with a 1mm groove for the "head" of the rivet. Bolts, rods, washers - stainless steel.

The effect in the photo.




Thanks to everyone for your help.