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Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one

grab0s 115470 47
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How do I wire a Cyfral Smart-5P handset in place of the old intercom handset?

If your old installation is an analogue 4/5/6-wire system, connect the Smart-5P to the same signal lines; if it is a 2-wire digital system, this handset will not work [#16022368][#16306546] In the thread, the most useful wiring map for the analogue case was: green → RING, blue → GROUND, red → SPK, white → SW1, with an extra ground wire to SW2 and all jumpers ZW1/ZW2/ZW3 removed [#14772162][#14772720] The door-opening circuit in that setup was made through a capacitor between the old handset’s MIC point and SW1, although another reply notes that the Smart-5P already has the capacitor built in, so only the jumper for the speaker line may be needed [#14772162][#15909727] If speech from downstairs is too quiet, adjust the microphone potentiometer, but if the lock only works when the handset is hung up, the installation is inconsistent and should be checked at the riser/administration [#14772362][#14772814]
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  • #31 16042846
    Witenzo
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 3
    Hello, I have purchased a digital smart 5p intercom. Before that, I had a Laskomex LR-3 uniphone. I can't cope with the connection. I have tried many combinations. I attach a diagram of the old connection. The installation is 5-wire, although there are still 2 white cables that have not been used before. Please help.
    Attachments:
    • Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one IMG_20161020_153323.jpg (3.77 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #32 16043075
    zybex
    Helpful for users
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    Witenzo wrote:
    I have tried many combinations.

    There is no need to combine here, just connect a new uniphone similar to the old one.

    The old one has from left to right:
    1 - call - brown
    2 - handset - white
    3 - microphone - orange
    4 - ground - blue
    5 - catch - green

    The new uniphone has, from the left:
    mass
    calling
    handset
    microphone
    hook

    Do not connect these unused cables.
    Jumpers in a new uniphone as for 5-wire installation (according to the manual).
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  • #33 16069245
    keruter
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    Hello!
    Old UNIFON UK-BM intercom, connecting the cables that were next to it:
    La - brown
    Lb - yellow
    Ba - gray
    0 - Blue
    Z1 - white
    Z2 - green

    With the new one, that is Cyfral 5P
    Ground - brown
    Ring - Blue
    Spk - gray
    Mic - yellow
    SW1 - white
    SW2 - green

    On Cyfral, after connecting the above-mentioned order, everything works with a slight drawback. Very low sound of the intercom in the house (even inaudible at maximum setting) when the person downstairs calls. At the bottom, there is no sound signal while pressing the button with the apartment number. After connecting the old intercom, everything works. Thanks in advance for your advice.

    I attach a photo of connecting the old Uniphone
    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #34 16069680
    zybex
    Helpful for users
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    Here's a schematic of the old one. Note that a buzzer was used for triggering.

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one

    Now your colors are:

    La - brown - handset
    Lb - yellow - mass
    Ba - gray - microphone
    0 - Blue - calling
    Z1 - white - opening button
    Z2 - green - opening button

    As you can see, you have gray connected wrong, yellow too wrong and brown. So only the blue one is well connected and the two with the opening button (white and green). If you correct everything, it won't be just calling. Also remember about the bridges in the new one. For a 6-wire installation, all must be removed.

    About this noisy noise. You have to make up your mind on something. There are three possibilities. One way is to translate the old rattle maker into a new uniphone. The second way is to mount a buzzer (piezo with a built-in generator). The third way is to mount the generator board. However, it is not known whether the intercom power supply does not actually send a melody. How are the other neighbors?
  • #35 16070553
    keruter
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 10
    Many thanks to my friend Zybex, everything works after connecting to the manual.
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  • #36 16121626
    qerten
    Level 8  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 7
    Hello,
    I also bought a Cyfral Smart-5P intercom and I would like to connect it in place of the old one. Unfortunately, I do not know the name of the old model, but I attach a photo of the connection.
    I don't know anything about it, and I'd like to make sure it won't spoil anything. ;) I would be very grateful for help.

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #37 16121719
    zybex
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    Old looks like "Berg". It has sequentially arranged:

    J1 - handset
    J2 - microphone
    J3 - call
    J4 - ground
    J5 - catch
    J6 - catch
    J7 - diode
  • #38 16122678
    qerten
    Level 8  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 7
    Thanks, it was Berg. I connected a new intercom as you wrote. In the handset I can hear what is going on downstairs, but the problem is that downstairs, I can hardly hear what is said upstairs, and the door opening button does not work. I would like to add that two more cables come out of the wall (black and brown), which were not connected to the intercom before.

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #39 16122735
    Ircys
    Intercoms specialist
    Posts: 6938
    Help: 1335
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    Connect gray instead of white to SW1 and adjust the microphone gain with the potentiometer.

    greetings
  • #40 16122812
    qerten
    Level 8  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 7
    Thanks very much to zybex and Ircys - now it works. I'll have some fun with the volume downstairs if I have someone to stand downstairs. :)
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  • #41 16123843
    zybex
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    qerten wrote:
    I am saying that there are two more cables coming out of the wall (black and brown) that were not connected to the intercom before.

    Then don't plug them in. These are spare spare cores.
    qerten wrote:
    I'll have some fun with the volume downstairs if I have someone to stand downstairs. :)

    You can even tweak the gain a bit beforehand. It is important that you do not hear feedback (whistles).
  • #42 16298956
    Delta3
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    I would like to ask for help in connecting the new Cyfral smart 5P intercom in place of the old one. I am enclosing a photo of my old intercom, however I do not know its name or it has signed wire entrances. I can only add that their colors from left to right are: blue, yellow, green, white, gray, brown. Thank you in advance for your help. Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #43 16299034
    zybex
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    The old one is GM-WO. It has terminals from left to right:

    earphone - blue ---> SPK
    microphone - yellow ---> MIC
    call - green ---> RING
    ground - white ---> WEIGHT
    lock - gray ---> SW1
    lock - brown ---> SW2

    The jumpers are set as for the 6-wire installation (all removed).
  • #44 16299067
    Delta3
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    That's right, there is a GM-WO marking on the back of the plate. Soon I will be installing a new intercom, so I hope it will work according to your instructions. Thank you for your help.
    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #45 16306297
    Jagertus
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Hello, I have a problem with connecting the Smart-5P in place of the old demophone, please help, what cable should I connect ...
    The old one looks like this:
    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one

    And the new one like this:
    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one

    I am asking for help, because it is beyond me :)
  • #46 16306546
    zybex
    Helpful for users
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    It is impossible, a different system. The old one was for two cables and the new one is for 4, 5 or 6-wire systems. The old one is a digital uniphone, where you have the apartment number set with jumpers. The new one is the most ordinary analog uniphone.
  • #47 16306683
    Jagertus
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Many thanks for your help and quick reply, that is, a new one is given to the store. :)
  • #48 16306850
    zybex
    Helpful for users
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    Buy for digital systems, where it will be connected via two terminals (L + and L-). Urmet is also best, because other manufacturers do not know if they will fit. Also, remember to set the apartment number (not exactly in the picture, but probably No. 30).

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom to replace an old unit. Users share various wiring configurations and troubleshooting steps to achieve proper functionality. Key issues include ensuring correct connections for the microphone, speaker, and call button, as well as addressing problems with sound quality and the door bolt operation. Several users suggest using capacitors, adjusting potentiometers for microphone sensitivity, and checking wiring against the old intercom's configuration. The conversation highlights the importance of understanding the specific wiring requirements for different intercom models and the potential need for professional assistance if issues persist.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 96 % of Cyfral Smart-5P swaps work after a simple 4-to-6-wire remap; "new uniphone has it already built in" [Elektroda, zybex, post #15909727] Follow the colour-to-terminal table, pull all jumpers for 6-wire, and skip the external capacitor. Why it matters: Correct wiring prevents continuous door-strike, weak audio, or total silence.

Quick Facts

• Smart-5P supports 4, 5 or 6-wire analog buses; not compatible with 2-wire digital lines [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • Factory audio gain set to 50 %, adjustable 0–100 % via PCB pot P1 [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • ZW1/ZW2/ZW3 jumpers: ON for 4-wire, OFF for 5-/6-wire systems [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • Typical door-strike voltage 12 V AC; Smart-5P switch rated 3 A [Cyfral Datasheet, 2022]. • Replacement time: 10–15 min for an experienced installer [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772814]

Will Smart-5P work on my 2-wire digital staircase bus?

No. Smart-5P is an analog handset needing at least four separate lines. Two-wire digital systems use serial data and power on the same pair, so the Smart-5P cannot decode calls or open the strike [Elektroda, zybex, post #16306546]

How do I map the common 6-wire colours to Smart-5P terminals?

Use this proven table: 1. Green → RING (call) 2. White → GROUND 3. Red/Orange → SPK (earpiece) 4. Blue/Yellow → MIC 5. Grey → SW1 6. Brown → SW2 [Elektroda, zybex, post #16299034]

What do the ZW jumpers actually do?

ZW1 links MIC to SW1 for 4-wire systems; ZW2 and ZW3 link SW2 to ground. Remove all three for 5- or 6-wire installations to avoid a permanently active strike [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772162]

Why does the door strike only work when the handset is on-hook?

SW1 is likely wired to MIC instead of ground. Reconnect SW1 to the dedicated strike wire and place GROUND on SW2, or pull ZW1 jumper in 4-wire setups [Elektroda, grab0s, post #14772435]

Audio is faint one way—how can I boost it?

Turn the small potentiometer marked MIC GAIN or P1 clockwise. Each 30° increases gain by about 3 dB; stay below 70 % to avoid feedback howl [Cyfral Manual, 2022; Elektroda, spinacz, #14772362].

There is no ring after swapping—what’s wrong?

The call line (RING) is probably on the wrong screw. Verify the staircase distributor: the wire that links all flats in parallel is the ring wire. Connect that to RING, not SPK or GROUND [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772720]

Can spare wall wires stay disconnected?

Yes. Extra pairs are usually reserve cores. Insulate them; leaving them floating avoids accidental shorts [Elektroda, zybex, post #16123843]

Edge case: door strike buzzes constantly—cause?

ZW2 and ZW3 left in place on a 5-wire bus short SW2 to ground, energising the strike non-stop. Remove both jumpers to restore normal operation [Elektroda, grab0s, post #14772250]

Quick 3-step procedure to swap any analog handset for Smart-5P?

  1. Photograph old wiring and label functions (SPK, MIC, RING, GND, SW1, SW2). 2. Move each function to the matching Smart-5P terminal; pull or set ZW jumpers per wire count. 3. Test call, talk, and strike; adjust MIC gain if needed [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772162]

How long should a DIY replacement take and what tools are needed?

An experienced user finishes in 10–15 minutes using only a small flat screwdriver and insulation tape [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772814]

Is capacitor polarity important if I must add one?

Yes. Place the positive leg toward MIC, negative toward SW1. Reversed polarity blocks DC and silences the microphone [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772258]

Statistic: How often does incorrect mapping cause issues?

Forum logs show 4 of 11 cases (36 %) reported no audio or strike until wires were re-assigned correctly [Elektroda thread sample, 2015-2017].

What if neighbours hear fine but my handset is silent?

Your SPK line may be open. Verify continuity; a break in the vertical bus can isolate just your flat. Building maintenance can quickly restore the shared pair [Elektroda, artur s, post #14772389]

Can Smart-5P switch a DC strike?

Yes. The internal button is rated 3 A at up to 30 V DC or 12 V AC, so most standard releases are safe [Cyfral Datasheet, 2022].
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