Replacement of the intercom in the apartment - in a high-rise building

I found a similar topic, I wanted to add my question in it so as not to create a new one, but it was blocked.
- to the point:
A typical big city skyscraper, I am replacing the old handset in my apartment with a new one, however I do not mess with the order of the wires, it is still bad, as if something started to open, but I cannot hear me downstairs at the entrance to the block, or I cannot hear the speaker from outside the block.
I extended the old cables using an internet twisted pair, so the colors have nothing to do with the original ones, perhaps arranged to some standard.
I don't know the old model, but I took some pics:

I want to replace this handset with a Cyfral Smart-5p and I'm looking for an expert's answer, which cable from the old contact to the new one.
Do I have to put any existing jumpers inside?
Photo of the new:
Thank you in advance.

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3289894.html
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/find.php?q=urmet+cyfral

The old uniphone is Urmet 1131. 5-wire installation. You have in turn:
1 - handset (white and orange) for SPK
CA - call (white and blue) to the RING
2 - microphone (green) on MIC
6 - ground (white) to WEIGHT
10 - was not connected
9 - lock (white and brown) on SW1
As for the jumpers, the ZW3 is to be on, the rest are to be removed.

Buddy @zybex you are great!
I connected everything according to your description and everything works!
This was the description I needed.
Thank you very much
I just don't know what the zw3 jumper is for, it works with and without it.

I have another intercom to exchange for an identical Digit, but here I am asking you to understand what I mean:

- also a multi-storey block of flats, an apartment ...
... the primitive old intercom was the first one, when they became popular, there were in each apartment small boxes on the wall with one loudspeaker and three buttons below, the buttons are a typical isostat where:
- the first key (as the switch does not bounce by itself), as if it were picking up the intercom, made us hear the guest in front of the staircase, until we turn it off, we could hear sounds from outside;
- press the second button to speak, let go to hear;
- the third button is an electro-catch.
There are 5 wires to the box in the apartment.

I combined with an identical Cyfral Smart 5P, I got the sound from the outside, I can even hear singing birds very well, I hit the cord of the abutment, because I can hear it buzzing when pressed, the handset calls when it is hung up, but I have one cable left, which I think is on the microphone, but when I plug it in there is a loud crack in the earpiece and I can't hear anything from the outside, but surprisingly now I can talk and hear me in front of the block (sucks such a solution).
I went to my neighbor to see how she has it connected, because years ago she changed the original intercom to a new one, but as it turned out, she has exactly the same Urmet 1131 that I changed to a Cyfral in the post above.
I thought, it's good, I have an analogy of behavior, so I will deal with it, unfortunately it turns out that or somewhere I am wrong, which seems to have plugged in well, and this microphone does not work for me, and hooking it to the contact with a big click turns off the handset loudspeaker.
It works as it should at my neighbor's, so it must be connectable, but I don't know how.
It seems to me that the whole philosophy is hidden in the configuration of the jumpers, that they should be properly shortened so that the microphone works simultaneously with the loudspeaker in the handset.
I attach a small drawing of the old intercom and a photo of how the neighbor has it connected.
I do apartment repairs (no one overflows), so I have the topic of the intercom again, now for a very elderly woman and I wanted to replace this decaying antique intercom, but it does not work out very well.
I will be grateful for any advice and directing me to the correct connection.

The colors of the veins coming to the "box" in the apartment:

1 - black
2 - blue
3 - green
4 - yellow
5 - red

drawing of an old intercom:

photo of the intercom at the neighbor's:

Hello
I have a similar problem and I don't know where to find the answer, so I'm writing here.
I am asking for help in connecting the CYFRAL SMART 5P in place of WEKTA, unfortunately I do not know the model.
Stara Wekta worked properly, only when you picked up the handset when it was too close to the camera, the sound was aroused and it squealed both in the handset and at the bottom. I attach photos of both cameras.

It's the Vector TK6. From the left, it has in turn:
1 - call
2 - mass
3 - handset
4 - microphone
5 - lock
6 - lock

bobek.1 wrote:

Stara Wekta worked properly, only when you picked up the handset when it was too close to the camera, the sound was aroused and it squealed both in the handset and at the bottom.

It was only necessary to slightly turn the potentiometer visible at the top of the plate (white and blue) to the left.

Thanks for the quick reply. However, I am asking for a blade, i.e. which cable from WEKTA to which in CYFRAL.
Thank you in advance and best regards.

Cyfral has conclusions:

MASS - mass
RING - calling (bell)
SPK - handset (speaker)
MIC - microphone
SW1 - lock (button)
SW2 - lock (button)

Set the jumpers as described.

Many thanks again to
zybex. Everything works as it should, but I had to bridge the ground with SW1.
Regards

Gentlemen, specialists, and how to replace it:



For this:


Thank you in advance

In the old one, see the markings. Not all of them can be seen in the photo posted.
So far it shows:
ZW - call
SL - handset
MC - microphone
Z1 - button
Z - button
The description of the ground terminal is not visible, but there is probably a symbol under the cables.
Here is the same marking of terminals (illustrative photo).



The new one is Wekta TK6.

1 - call
2 - mass
3 - handset
4 - microphone
5 - button
6 - button

Note that on this PCB from the first photo, the Z1 pin has only a piece of wire, the incoming cable has no free wire, so why don't I know this - the bridge and where to connect it?

Has everything worked fine so far? Connect everything you can and we'll cover that later. Where there is one wire, it is the ZW (calling) terminal. As you can see, other cables are multiplied (they probably go to the neighbor).

Of course, it was my Z contact from the old board, I was wrong.
A short conductor protrudes from it, and the incoming cable has nothing broken, all plugged in. Today I will be working (this is at my neighbor's away for Christmas) and I will let you know, this time Thank you

Gentlemen, and I also have one question.
How to connect a new FERMEX uniphone, model LOFT, which is for 4 or 5-wire installation, and in my block I have a 6-wire installation.
The intercom that was connected was Urmet. All 6 wires were clipped and the bridge on board 6-10 was cut.

At the moment, I can open the lock at the bottom, I have a calling tone, but no up-down conversation.

There is also a jumper to set the operating mode - common ground / ground separation - but how does this relate to the fact that there is only one terminal to ground?

Maybe someone will suggest ...?

The picture above shows that the uniphone has five terminals. You need a sixth. This sixth is to go from the button. At this time, one end of the button goes to terminal "1" and the other end is connected to ground. You would have to isolate this contact by crossing the path. Then connect the sixth cable from the installation here. The easiest way is to solder an auxiliary cable from the print side, which then needs to be connected to the one from the installation.

dayus wrote:

How to connect a new FERMEX uniphone, model LOFT, which is for 4 or 5-wire installation, and in my block I have a 6-wire installation.

As you probably notice yourself, you have the wrong uniphone, so you will either start to combine as suggested by zybex, or you will buy the right uniphone.

Regards

I isolated the bolt completely from the mass. I have two bolt clamps free. At the moment, I have the door to open, the calling signal, but no conversation. Blowoff seems to be there, but very weak. Any advice?

dayus wrote:

no conversation. Blowdown seems to be there, but very weak. Any advice?

P1, P2 control?

Regards

Both potentiometers are set to the maximum position. Maybe the amplification is too weak for this installation?

What is the voltage on the microphone line? Check by connecting the meter between terminal 2 and 3.

The headphones from analog phones are of the same type in terms of microphone and loudspeaker inserts?

Probably yes, but you can always try it. Only the polarity of the microphone has to be respected. Certainly nothing will break. Those from the phones were various, because the headphones sometimes even had, say, 32? And other times even about 150?.

8V DC and 18V AC on the microphone line
The handset has been replaced with a telephone handset, the microphone insert from the old Urmet has been replaced with the new one, the gain control in the handset is made, the gain control in the unifobir is made and then the deaf-blown microphone is absent at all. At the beginning, as I wrote, it was not there either, it was just noise on the line in the loudspeaker.

DC voltage is correct on the microphone line. Did you pay attention to the polarity? There must be a plus at the microphone terminal.

There is a positive sign on pin 2, i.e. on the microphone. It is strange that the intercom system does not transfer this signal - maybe the microphone path is damaged ...

dayus wrote:

there is still an option to attach the microphone plug straight to the rope, but you can hear everything from the apartment downstairs

You can't do that, because an amplifier is needed for the microphone. It is usually placed on the uniphone plate (sometimes in the form of smd elements from the side of the tracks). It contains several components, including a transistor.

It's a strange thing, maybe this uniphone is faulty.

I am coming back to the topic because I have once again:
- a multi-apartment system in a block of flats, where in a few flats a nagging hum is heard in the uniphone headphones, very similar to the buzzing of an electro-catch, something as if the complete lack of smoothing of the DC voltage from the power supply. However, this occurs in only a few apartments, including mine. I also noticed that the volume of this buzzing increases or decreases when using household electrical appliances, depending on the load, for example a motor in a washing machine working cyclically increases the hum and increases the hum.
It is very annoying, because it is practically impossible to talk to the gate, although everything works as it should, it is also difficult to hear the sound of the electric strike, although it also works properly.