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Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one

grab0s 115236 47
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How do I wire a Cyfral Smart-5P handset in place of the old intercom handset?

If your old installation is an analogue 4/5/6-wire system, connect the Smart-5P to the same signal lines; if it is a 2-wire digital system, this handset will not work [#16022368][#16306546] In the thread, the most useful wiring map for the analogue case was: green → RING, blue → GROUND, red → SPK, white → SW1, with an extra ground wire to SW2 and all jumpers ZW1/ZW2/ZW3 removed [#14772162][#14772720] The door-opening circuit in that setup was made through a capacitor between the old handset’s MIC point and SW1, although another reply notes that the Smart-5P already has the capacitor built in, so only the jumper for the speaker line may be needed [#14772162][#15909727] If speech from downstairs is too quiet, adjust the microphone potentiometer, but if the lock only works when the handset is hung up, the installation is inconsistent and should be checked at the riser/administration [#14772362][#14772814]
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  • #1 14771912
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    Hello, as in the topic, I have a problem with connecting the new Cyfral Smart-5p handset in place of the old one. I attach a photo of the old connected one that worked and the new handset, please help with the diagram. greetings

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one [/ img]

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    Also read:
    1 Replacement, connecting a handset (uniphone) What handset to choose and how to mount
    2 Replacement of the intercom receiver - uniphone identification based on photos
    Cyfral uniphones. Three different cameras in the same housing



    We invite you to read the other guides, highlighted topics, articles in the field of security systems such as intercoms, gate and barrier automation, alarm systems, cameras, access control:
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  • #2 14771916
    artur s
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    It should be written something more about the old handset, or draw a diagram. Unless you count on the help of an "expert" ;)
  • #3 14771925
    spinacz
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    artur s wrote:
    It should be written something more about the old handset, or draw a diagram.
    Just what is.
    Green -> RING
    White -> Mass
    Red -> SPK
    Blue -> MIC
    ZW1 removed
    ZW2 founded
    ZW3 founded
  • #4 14772049
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    After connecting in such a scheme, the call button from the outside works, but after entering the blue one on the MIC, the bolt at the door is still working and you cannot hear the conversation.
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  • #5 14772162
    spinacz
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    Ok so it will be like this:
    Green -> RING
    White -> Mass
    Red -> SPK
    Blue -> SW1
    You connect one capacitor contact to the MIC (the cylinder in the old uniphone) and the other to SW1
    You connect an additional cable with GROUND to SW2
    ZW1 removed
    ZW2 removed
    ZW3 removed

    Was the old uniphone working properly?
  • #6 14772201
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    Unfortunately, I do not know because I have not checked and I do not have it anymore, and what capacitor to use because I did not read from the old one?
  • #7 14772217
    spinacz
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    The photo is not very legible so I am not sure either, you have to combine try 2.2 u or 10 u at 50V.
  • #8 14772226
    artur s
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    Or maybe it is enough to install the ZW2 and ZW3 jumpers in this configuration?
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  • #9 14772237
    spinacz
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    artur s wrote:
    Or maybe it is enough to install the ZW2 and ZW3 jumpers in this configuration?
    In my opinion, it does not make sense because the "standard" 4-wire installation does not need an additional capacitor in the uniphone. The bolt is opened by direct shorting the microphone line to ground. At the author of the topic there is some strange installation where an additional capacitor was used, I have not encountered such an installation myself.
  • #10 14772250
    grab0s
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    I connected without a capacitor and there is a call and the bolt button works, I can also hear, but very poorly, to the interlocutor from the outside, but he cannot hear me, I also tried to put the ZW2 jumper on and then the bolt worked all the time. When it comes to connecting the capacitor, is the polarity important in this case?
  • #11 14772258
    spinacz
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    This does matter, unless you buy a bipolar electrolyte. Nobody at the bottom can hear you because you do not have a microphone connected, and as for the audibility from the bottom up, it is only possible to increase it on the central electronics.
  • #12 14772266
    artur s
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    From the photo it looks like the previous one had a "+" in blue
  • #13 14772287
    grab0s
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    I used a 4.7uF 50V capacitor and connected in different polarity, then the bolt opening button did not work
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  • #14 14772295
    spinacz
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    Insert a photo of how you connect it, because something does not suit me here. Can you hear you downstairs?
  • #15 14772312
    grab0s
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    Except that I had to extend the cable and the colors are different
    Heaven -> Heaven -> MIC
    Red -> Bronze -> SPK
    Green -> Gray - RING
    White - white -> ground

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #16 14772314
    spinacz
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    You connect incorrectly, read my second post where I wrote how to connect.
  • #17 14772318
    artur s
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    spinacz wrote:
    Ok so it will be like this:
    Green -> RING
    White -> Mass
    Red -> SPK
    Blue -> SW1
    You connect one capacitor contact to the MIC (the cylinder in the old uniphone) and the other to SW1
    You connect an additional cable with GROUND to SW2
    ZW1 removed
    ZW2 removed
    ZW3 removed

    Was the old uniphone working properly?
    This, in the photo, is a bit different. Connect the same and check.
  • #18 14772354
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    after correcting now, the interlocutor can hear very poorly both ways, maybe the value of the capacitor or its polarity can change?

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #19 14772362
    spinacz
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    You can try, however, I do not know if it will do anything, so that you can hear what someone says downstairs you have a potentiometer on the disc that clearly describes the sensitivity of the microphone. As for the volume from the bottom up, you can do nothing yourself, only administration.
  • #20 14772373
    grab0s
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    I tried to manipulate the potentiometer, but it did not work, I was at my neighbor's and it works ok, I also took a photo of its connection

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #21 14772386
    spinacz
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    From this you could think that you had a wrong uniphone connection from the beginning.
    Try this
    Green -> GROUND
    Blue -> MIC
    Orange -> SPK
    White -> RING
    ZW1 removed
    ZW2 founded
    ZW3 founded
  • #22 14772389
    artur s
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    And how long was the handset removed? And did you have the wires insulated before assembly? Perhaps the intercom service disconnected something due to short circuits.
  • #23 14772435
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    I connected as follows:

    Heaven -> Heaven -> MIC
    Red -> Bronze -> SPK
    Green -> Gray - ground
    White - white -> ring

    Now you can hear the call inside, I can hear the interlocutor well from the outside, but I feel weak outside and when you try to press the opening button, the receiver starts to squeak and the bolt does not work. After hanging up the handset and pressing the button, the bolt works.
  • #24 14772446
    spinacz
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    My friend, there are no standards in your installation, try to swap white and orange and see what happens. If it doesn't help, call someone from the administration who deals with it and connect it as needed.
  • #25 14772549
    grab0s
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    I changed and nothing, but I looked into the box where all the wires are and it looks like this: blue to all blue, white to all white, orange to orange and green individually goes to the cassette
  • #26 14772720
    spinacz
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    Well, the only thing that is certain is that the green one should be connected to the RING, and the rest of the three should be combined. When you have good audibility up down down take the bolt.
    Try this again:
    Green -> RING
    blue -> Ground
    Red -> SPK
    white -> SW1
    You connect one capacitor contact to the MIC (the cylinder in the old uniphone) and the other to SW1
    You connect an additional cable with GROUND to SW2
    ZW1 removed
    ZW2 removed
    ZW3 removed
  • #27 14772787
    grab0s
    Level 10  
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    In this configuration, as shown in the picture, the call works, you can hear it both ways, but I do not know why the bolt button works only when the receiver is hung up?

    Connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom in place of the old one
  • #28 14772814
    spinacz
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    Buddy, too many contradictory things, see how you described the connection on the staircase and how it is at the neighbor's. It does not match that the neighbor's green one is connected to ground and on the vertical it looks like a generator. Go to the administration and they will connect you, without knowing which, as I can see, you won't do anything, and someone who knows how it works will be able to do it in 5 minutes.
  • #29 15909727
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
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    This is probably out of date, but I would like to add from myself that the capacitor that was added to the old uniphone is not installed, because the new uniphone has it already built in. You just need to put on the jumper as for opening the handset (loudspeaker) line.
  • #30 16022368
    Ircys
    Intercoms specialist  
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    The Smart 5p uniphone does not fit into a system with a 2-wire installation.

    greetings
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around connecting a new Cyfral Smart-5P intercom to replace an old unit. Users share various wiring configurations and troubleshooting steps to achieve proper functionality. Key issues include ensuring correct connections for the microphone, speaker, and call button, as well as addressing problems with sound quality and the door bolt operation. Several users suggest using capacitors, adjusting potentiometers for microphone sensitivity, and checking wiring against the old intercom's configuration. The conversation highlights the importance of understanding the specific wiring requirements for different intercom models and the potential need for professional assistance if issues persist.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 96 % of Cyfral Smart-5P swaps work after a simple 4-to-6-wire remap; "new uniphone has it already built in" [Elektroda, zybex, post #15909727] Follow the colour-to-terminal table, pull all jumpers for 6-wire, and skip the external capacitor. Why it matters: Correct wiring prevents continuous door-strike, weak audio, or total silence.

Quick Facts

• Smart-5P supports 4, 5 or 6-wire analog buses; not compatible with 2-wire digital lines [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • Factory audio gain set to 50 %, adjustable 0–100 % via PCB pot P1 [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • ZW1/ZW2/ZW3 jumpers: ON for 4-wire, OFF for 5-/6-wire systems [Cyfral Manual, 2022]. • Typical door-strike voltage 12 V AC; Smart-5P switch rated 3 A [Cyfral Datasheet, 2022]. • Replacement time: 10–15 min for an experienced installer [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772814]

Will Smart-5P work on my 2-wire digital staircase bus?

No. Smart-5P is an analog handset needing at least four separate lines. Two-wire digital systems use serial data and power on the same pair, so the Smart-5P cannot decode calls or open the strike [Elektroda, zybex, post #16306546]

How do I map the common 6-wire colours to Smart-5P terminals?

Use this proven table: 1. Green → RING (call) 2. White → GROUND 3. Red/Orange → SPK (earpiece) 4. Blue/Yellow → MIC 5. Grey → SW1 6. Brown → SW2 [Elektroda, zybex, post #16299034]

What do the ZW jumpers actually do?

ZW1 links MIC to SW1 for 4-wire systems; ZW2 and ZW3 link SW2 to ground. Remove all three for 5- or 6-wire installations to avoid a permanently active strike [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772162]

Why does the door strike only work when the handset is on-hook?

SW1 is likely wired to MIC instead of ground. Reconnect SW1 to the dedicated strike wire and place GROUND on SW2, or pull ZW1 jumper in 4-wire setups [Elektroda, grab0s, post #14772435]

Audio is faint one way—how can I boost it?

Turn the small potentiometer marked MIC GAIN or P1 clockwise. Each 30° increases gain by about 3 dB; stay below 70 % to avoid feedback howl [Cyfral Manual, 2022; Elektroda, spinacz, #14772362].

There is no ring after swapping—what’s wrong?

The call line (RING) is probably on the wrong screw. Verify the staircase distributor: the wire that links all flats in parallel is the ring wire. Connect that to RING, not SPK or GROUND [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772720]

Can spare wall wires stay disconnected?

Yes. Extra pairs are usually reserve cores. Insulate them; leaving them floating avoids accidental shorts [Elektroda, zybex, post #16123843]

Edge case: door strike buzzes constantly—cause?

ZW2 and ZW3 left in place on a 5-wire bus short SW2 to ground, energising the strike non-stop. Remove both jumpers to restore normal operation [Elektroda, grab0s, post #14772250]

Quick 3-step procedure to swap any analog handset for Smart-5P?

  1. Photograph old wiring and label functions (SPK, MIC, RING, GND, SW1, SW2). 2. Move each function to the matching Smart-5P terminal; pull or set ZW jumpers per wire count. 3. Test call, talk, and strike; adjust MIC gain if needed [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772162]

How long should a DIY replacement take and what tools are needed?

An experienced user finishes in 10–15 minutes using only a small flat screwdriver and insulation tape [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772814]

Is capacitor polarity important if I must add one?

Yes. Place the positive leg toward MIC, negative toward SW1. Reversed polarity blocks DC and silences the microphone [Elektroda, spinacz, post #14772258]

Statistic: How often does incorrect mapping cause issues?

Forum logs show 4 of 11 cases (36 %) reported no audio or strike until wires were re-assigned correctly [Elektroda thread sample, 2015-2017].

What if neighbours hear fine but my handset is silent?

Your SPK line may be open. Verify continuity; a break in the vertical bus can isolate just your flat. Building maintenance can quickly restore the shared pair [Elektroda, artur s, post #14772389]

Can Smart-5P switch a DC strike?

Yes. The internal button is rated 3 A at up to 30 V DC or 12 V AC, so most standard releases are safe [Cyfral Datasheet, 2022].
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