A Class W169 1.5 Petrol 95KM 2004 - Procedure for Timing Chain Replacement Without Engine Removal

Hello. How to replace the timing chain in A class W169 1.5 petrol 95KM 2004. Can this be done without removing the engine and locks? It is possible to replace the complete timing gear. When the engine starts, there is a noise for a few seconds, so I want to replace the timing belt.

Or maybe it would help to become interested in the tensioner?, I am writing this because you say that the noise is only a short while after starting. There is a hydraulic tensioner whose operation depends on the condition of the engine lubrication system. I mean the quality of the oil and the pressure the oil pump produces.

In addition, Mercedes provides a procedure for checking the chain extension for most engines (using the marks on the shafts and housing)

Yes, I know it is controlled by a hydraulic tensioner. Oil 5W40 Fuchs 201000 km mileage. It looks like this when I start it cold or warm there is a noise for a few seconds. Let's say this shit. The petrol engine is single-row, so it pulls out quicker than the diesel engine. I was thinking of changing the oil to 10W40 but will it help??? If not, it's a shame to pour poor quality oil into the engine. Especially since I don't have to add anything. From exchange to exchange. What do you think.

These chains sometimes broke after 150,000km.
I suggest replacement if you are going to drive this car, and the replacement requires disassembly of the engine.
And quite a lot of work, you have to take the engine out of the frame, generally a thankless job.

I have a 2T crane and a channel. So I thought that you need the whole engine with the gearbox on the sled ... That is, the worst thing to do is remove the engine because it's a bit of fun. Can I do it without a lift? Changing the oil or the tensioner itself won't do anything, right?

Removing the engine is not a problem because a pair of hoses, a pair of cables and the whole assembly goes down.
Only on the channel is rather no chance you would have to lift the car so that the engine with the sleigh went out.

That's why I think so. Crane, I will hang the entire drive unit on the sledge, I will lift the body with the jack up, then I will slightly lower the entire engine on the crane and pull everything out on the crane.

I'm reading and reading and wondering why you don't replace the entire engine right away - it will be less work than messing around with dismantling and replacing the chain!
It's not really my car, do what you want. For me, it's idiotic to pull the engine out and replace the entire timing belt just because the tensioner is most likely damaged. Because these tensioners, unfortunately, break down - the rule is that when the engine is running, the tensioner should stretch the chain, and after turning off the engine it should remain in this position. However, if it goes back, at the next start we have a characteristic rattling until the tensioner comes out again under the influence of oil pressure.

szymitsu21 wrote:

These chains sometimes broke after 150,000km.

You practice demagogy buddy :-/ If you live the engine and do not care about the service, you will destroy the timing even faster. And the results of this is? Because according to my knowledge, the timing system is not as emergency in these engines as you suggest. The mileage of 150,000 is a sign to check the wear of the chain - and not immediately throw yourself at replacing the entire timing chain. Because the chain is not a belt, and there is no need to replace it after a certain mileage!
Don't you think that if the timing belt was excessively worn, the chain would keep pounding against the housing?
Anyway, as I said: do what you want. I really like following the adventures of such "exchangers". Instead of doing any (even basic) diagnostics, they immediately start replacing half of the car. Money spent, time wasted, a whole shelf of unnecessary parts in the garage, and the car doesn't drive if it didn't
Of course, in this case, if you replace the entire timing belt (and don't forget about the tensioner!), the noise will disappear. But is this the method??

Geria, do you suggest replacing the tensioner itself??? The access is from the engine compartment and the replacement takes 20 minutes. Sure it's simpler but is it enough? How to make? A change to 10W40 oil would help or not.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

The mileage is 201000 km, so you think it's not stretched???

Added after 48 [minutes]:

Gerri, I took out the tensioner, it was in the open position, i.e. it was extended by 18mm. It hides up to about 13mm, measured with a caliper. So it's ok right? I am surprised by one merc logo under it 00 and 168 on the other side. That is, it is a tensioner from W168 from 2000 ?????

Added after 1 [hours] 18 [minutes]:

For me it's a chain or slides. I don't want to replace the entire timing belt, but if I have to, I will. Everything points to it... The more so how much work there is. It's better to do it once and do it right

Gerri wrote:

You are demagogic

Dude, do you know what demagoguery is?

I don't use the forum to hinder, but to help.
All the more so I'm not going to lie, especially since I have no interest in it.

I write what I have encountered, and I express my opinion, so if I am wrong, please correct my statement, express your opinion and the discussion will be on a much higher level without unnecessary misspellings.

kacper082 wrote:

Geria, do you suggest replacing the tensioner itself??? The access is from the engine compartment and the replacement takes 20 minutes. Sure it's simpler but is it enough? How to make? A change to 10W40 oil would help or not.

Changing the oil to the one you wrote won't change anything.
This oil is simply more dense at low temperatures. And you have a problem with a loose chain after a stop. So here it is worth listening to a friend geria

Quote:

The rule of thumb is that the tensioner should tighten the chain when the engine is running and should remain in that position after the engine is turned off. However, if it goes back, then at the next start we have a characteristic rattle until the tensioner comes out again under the influence of oil pressure.

.

kacper082 wrote:

The mileage is 201000 km, so you think it's not stretched???

It works - not "thoughts"
I've seen a chain broken after 40,000 km (in a 271 C-class motorbike) and I know motorbikes that run 300,000 and more without interfering with the timing.

kacper082 wrote:

The access is from the engine compartment and the replacement takes 20 minutes

When replacing the timing belt, the tensioner should be replaced anyway. So you don't lose anything.

szymitsu21 wrote:

Changing the oil to the one you wrote won't change anything.

Changing the oil density could help in a situation where the tensioner has an internal leak and does not tension the chain sufficiently when the engine is running.

kacper082 wrote:

Gerri, I took out the tensioner, it was in the open position, i.e. it was extended by 18mm. It hides up to about 13mm, measured with a caliper. So it's ok right?

I won't tell you that. The manufacturer does not provide this dimension in the documentation. Someone more familiar with it would have to chime in. I basically deal with currents and my knowledge of the length of the tensioner in this engine is not impressive
In the attachment I posted the instructions for setting the timing system to read the degree of chain extension. After setting the camshaft to the mark, the amount of chain wear is read from the scale on the crankshaft pulley (in degrees)

Gerri wrote:

Changing the oil density could help in a situation where the tensioner has an internal leak and does not tension the chain sufficiently when the engine is running.

Yes, but not as suggested by the author of the post. As for the rest, I totally agree.

I'm just going to replace the tensioner itself because the symptoms are the same after I start the engine. I even bought the tensioner itself - SWAG - on a well-known auction site, I found it for PLN 270. I've already taken it out and checked it and it looks like it's just like Gerri described - it doesn't hold oil and only starting the engine causes the oil pressure to increase and push it to the pin, which tightens the chain through the slide. Diagnosis of a faulty tensioner is discussed and shown here https://youtu.be/WyYsgZ5GLX8

Hello. How should the marks on the wheels from the timing merc a150 w169 be set?

can anyone help?

http://pl.lmgtfy.com/?q=a150+timing+belt

And is it possible to replace the tensioner in this 1.5 engine without locking the camshaft and thus removing the entire top? The tensioner is easy to access, but pulling the intake to get to the lid is unfortunately a lot of work. Will someone help?

krzyssuper wrote:

And is it possible to replace the tensioner in this 1.5 engine without locking the camshaft and thus removing the entire top?

How did you come up with that? You take the old tensioner out and put in the new one.

Thanks for the answer, I asked two mechanics one on YouTube the other directly live, generally they said it's better to block the shaft so that the chain doesn't accidentally jump.

The manufacturer's service manual does not recommend anything like that.

Do you know what torque to tighten the 2 bolts holding the tensioner? I only have the book "I fix it myself" w169/w245 and there is nothing about it. So to sum up, I pull out the tensioner, put in a new one, start the car and it should be ok?

There are two types of tensioner on the 169 with the 266 engine - depending on the chassis number. The moment is the same in both cases.
Below I have posted a fragment of the instructions for replacing the tensioner - so that it is not that I am talking untruth. If you click on the picture it will enlarge. I'm not a mechanic, I don't know how it works in practice, I just quote what the manufacturer says. It cannot be ruled out that in case of extreme wear of the chain and wheels, there is a possibility that the chain will jump. But why replace the tensioner itself in this case - how should the entire timing belt be replaced???

A very interesting topic. Can I ask for a PDF of the instructions? Checking/setting the chain (two shafts) in B KL w245 b200 Turbo petrol.
Recently, there has been a topic of threading a new chain and replacing the tensioner without dismantling the engine from the top after a low mileage. I would like to ask for your suggestions in this regard.

The manual says that the tensioner and chain can be replaced without pulling out the engine.