[Solved] Best Automatic Device for 225cmx160cm Double-Leaf Gate: Steel Profile & Railing Options

Hello colleagues on the forum.
I am asking for suggestions regarding the selection of automation for a double-leaf gate with a leaf size of 225 cm and a height of 160 cm. Gate leaf made of steel profile and railing. The distance of the hinge to the edge of the post is 15 cm.
Best regards.

Before someone advises you, you can still write.
1. can you and do you want to have buffers when opening and closing the gate. (220V actuators) must have them 24V actuators do not.
2) What price range
3. whether you want them to be strong and lively or accurate with sensors. 220V actuators are generally strong and very durable 24V actuators have anti-crush sensors and do not need to have bumpers as they have built-in position sensors, but the design is more complicated.

I was looking for the most long-life actuator at an affordable price of 1300-1500£ and decided on the 220V FAAC G-Bat 300 actuators. I don't have anti-crush sensors, but I have the force set to the point where it will open the gate, but stop it with two fingers.

Thank you for your comments.
As far as the buffers are concerned, it is possible to install them in the middle of the door, i.e. at the closing.
Surely the actuators must be fairly strong because the leaf with the dimensions I have given give a lot of resistance especially when the wind blows.
As far as the price threshold is concerned, the maximum set is 1900 zł. There is also the possibility of self-assembly without losing the warranty.

gadek80 wrote:

the 24V actuators have anti-crush sensors and do not have to have bumpers as they have built-in position sensors

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He's learning I see mate, but there are still a few things to figure out. I appreciate the willingness to help, but surely a colleague must do this in gate automation .
Bumpers are not required ( but it doesn't hurt to use them either) for tz covered cylinders due to the fact that you can easily fit stops on them from underneath. And since their most popular representative is probably Nice Wingo 24 and they happen to be on 24V, the association is ready .
For example Beninca BOB for 230V with limiters for opening and closing :
https://www.napedy.net/naped-do-bramy-skrzydlowej-beninca-bob-21-p-1286.html

suworow wrote:

You are learning I see mate, but there are still a few things to figure out. I appreciate the willingness to help, but surely a colleague must do this in gate automation

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All in all, it's not learning, but I'm trying to make an important point. I think the comment about the lifespan of the actuators and the requirement for bumpers is also an important point.
I would even put forward to the moderator an idea that can be borrowed from the section "What TV, projector, camera to buy? "
There, before asking about the choice of TV, you have to write under what conditions it will be used, distance, hours, games or programmes.
Here, you could write a poll like:
Which gate
How many people will be using it
whether it has the possibility of fitting bumpers
etc.

gadek80 wrote:

I think the comment about the lifespan of the actuators and requiring bumpers is also an important point.

Did the colleague read what I wrote to him. He understands that whether an actuator requires ground mounted bumpers or not does not depend on the 12/24/230V supply method but on the design of the actuator? The colleague gives wrong advice and then goes into it. What for? Don't you understand that you are misleading the questioner?
In your case, practically any cylinder with an extension of 40 cm or an arm will work. This is mentioned in this topic for example: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3332981.html#16428468

The question to the author of the topic is whether you decide for a "powerful" but less safe (most) 230 V drive or one with amperage. To read what the difference is just read @kotbury's posts. Every once in a while it explains it to someone.

gadek80 wrote:

FAAC G-Bat 300. I don't have anti-crush sensors, but I have the force set to the point where it will open the gate, but stop it with two fingers.

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It is a good thing that your colleague adjusted the power, which is unfortunately forgotten by most home-grown installers, and even assumes that the more power reserve the better. This does not change the fact that force regulation is in no way a substitute for amperometry. A colleague's door will continue to push with the set force for the set time to close, while one with an ammeter will let go by reversing the leaf movement. For children's fingers inserted between the leaves, this can make a colossal difference.

What opening angles does the esteemed author of the question want? What times?

Will a 24 volt actuator cope with a 225 cm x 160 cm wing built up quite tightly with rails in a high wind ? I understand that 24 volt actuators give more possibilities but I am trying for a practical solution. The opening angle is 90 degrees.
More and more data maybe some suggestions ?

I have found three items :
1. BENINCA BILL 50 (230V with buffers)
2. CAME ATS STANDARD ATOMO (230 V with end stops on the actuator)
3. BFT PHOBOS BT A40 (24 V with stop buttons)
Perhaps someone from the specialists can comment on these or suggest another solution.

gadek80 wrote:

I don't have anti-crush sensors, but I have the force set to the point where it will open the gate, but I will stop it with two fingers.

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You will quickly change this , when the frosts come, the grease on the screw will thicken, it will get cold and the force will have to be increased as the leaf will open half way and the programmed time will run out.

As far as I know, in the Faac G-bat 300 the 452MPS control panel has additional inputs 22, 23, 24, 25 to which you can probably connect limit switches.
So if the author can have a central stop to close the gate and he doesn't want a stop to open, these entrances could be used and simple switches to stop the gate could be installed.
Can these inputs fulfill such a function?

kyfe wrote:

. BFT PHOBOS BT A40 (24 V with limit switches)

I would take this set. In my area, tested in strong winds, properly programmed, they can handle such gates. The downside is that opening and closing the gate is a bit slow compared to other drives.

A good note from an anonymous advisor If the gate does not have a central mechanical stop, only the electric gate is closed all the time and will swing in the wind. If you have a stop at least the middle gate is pressed against the stop and sits rigidly.
The inputs 22 to 25 in the FACC 452mps control panel are actually limit switches, but it is worth calling the manufacturer or distributor how they work and then you do not need to have stoppers on the opening.
Alternatively, experienced people will say whether the opening of the g-bat 300 can stop at the maximum opening without damaging the actuators.

I would like to use the bumper in the middle as the final position of the closed gate. Worse is the bumpers on the opening because one of them would have to be installed in the place where the path from the gate runs. The solution may be what was written by gadek80, but whether the position of the actuator opening to the maximum will not affect their service life? This is a question for experienced installers. Thank you for all the advice and best regards.

Quote:

will not affect their viability?

There will be, although the thread on the bolt ends a bit early and the plastic piston nut stops on those unfinished threads (and theoretically it can jam), but we used a lot of drives this way and they all show no signs of jamming or wear of the nut. It is possible to "tune" the actuator by placing a thick washer in the gap between the nut and the drive sleeve (see photo) - and then the nut will rest elegantly with its entire forehead against this washer.



Only that the exact selection of assembly dimensions for such an opening is quite difficult and requires many fittings.

And can the inputs of the 22 to 25 switches in the 452mps control panel connected to the contactor stop the gate?
Possibly another vital actuator with a bumper in the middle.

My friend.
The BFT PHOBOS actuator has built-in adjustable stop switches for opening and closing, so you don't need any side stops except the middle one, unless you have the gate open for half a day, and yes, the wind can damage something.

I have a question for dzolo35. In the closed position, from what I read, 230 V actuators close the gate with a certain force and stop. Is it possible to set the BFT PHOBOS actuator in the closed position with a similar effect, i.e. door stiffness?

Hello.
This set will probably include the THALIA control unit and it controls the PHOBOS BT actuators.
If you buy a set with this control unit, you have the option of keeping the closing lock (you need a gate closing limiter), or set the closing limit switch at the actuator accordingly.
The best thing to do is to download the programming manual for the BFT THALIA control unit and look at the options, what and how can be set.

kyfe wrote:

Is it possible to set the BFT PHOBOS actuator in the closed position with a similar effect, i.e. door stiffness?

Yes, it is possible with the THALIA switchboard.

While searching for a suitable drive, I came across the description of the FAAC GENIUS G-BAT 400 actuator: "Built-in limit switch in the actuator - NO (requires a ground-mounted bumper)". The set includes only a bumper in the middle of the gate. limit in this actuator?

Quote:

Built-in limit switch in the actuator - NONE (requires a ground-mounted bumper) ".

Well, after all, they wrote that NONE! Only the buffer in the ground can be used.

Of course, my oversight, but in fact the power of auto-suggestion and willingness to find the best solution . In the Thalia control panel, it is actually possible to adjust the closing position of the gate with the pressure against the central stop.
I add a picture of my gate: .
I would like to ask my colleagues at what height is it best to mount the actuator? The bottom metal profile is about 30 cm high and it seems a bit too low to me. And most importantly FAAC 414 or BFT PHOBOS BT A40?
Thank you for all the hints.

Quote:

In the Thalia control panel, it is actually possible to adjust the closing position of the gate with the pressure against the central stop

But then the electric limit switches do not work, i.e. the central stop is then necessary.

In your situation, most of the advantages favor the BFT - lightweight gate, so the low-noise 24V Phobos actuators are better suited. They also have a much more culturally active redundancy and a lot of added value - anti-crush (in 414 only in a paid option and it works a bit cajmer).
414 are "gniotsa not break" actuators, maintenance-free, for heavy gates, but clunky and with a low work culture - let's say a large gate at a farmer who hangs, how it works to work without looking (they also have a second ecological niche - heavy gates in tenement houses in the old construction industry - the so-called rental ones - they can do it without any problems, they are much cheaper than professional motors for heavy gates, and the culture of work or some extra options the community does not care about - it has to open and close as long as possible, CHEAP, no breakdowns and that's it).

Theoretically, it is best to mount the actuator exactly in the middle of the leaf height - but if your gate is not twisted and fairly stiff (i.e. when pushing the bottom to the stop of both wings, the top will not break apart), then you can mount it to the bottom crossbar.

I finally bought the BFT PHOBOS BT A40, now it's time for assembly

On the advice of forum members I have purchased a BFT PHOBOS BT A40 kit. At the moment the set is already installed and running. It is a good choice which I recommend for this type of gate.Thank you for all your advice and suggestions.Regards .