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Electric Roller Shutters: Guidance on Installation, Wiring, and Control Systems

Cymiasty 38424 21
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How should I prewire electric roller shutters so each shutter can be controlled locally by a window switch and later centrally from one control panel?

Prewire the shutters as a 5x1.5 mm² bus from the switchboard to the first window box and then box-to-box, so local window switches and later central control can be added without rewiring [#15513572][#15513710] Use extra-deep 70 mm boxes with a spacer so there is room for the switchgear and any future shutter actuators/drivers [#15513572][#15514312] From each window box to the shutter motor, run a 4x1.5 mm² cable; one reply also mentions a fused 4x0.75 mm² motor lead [#15511504][#15627093] Put the shutter supply on a separate 230 V circuit in the distribution board, and if needed split it into two circuits [#15510675] If you want future alarm or remote integration, leave an additional control cable such as YTDY 8x0.5 to the alarm panel, or follow the controller manufacturer’s wiring diagram [#15510675][#15515950]
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  • #1 15510554
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    Hello.
    I have a request for experts and connoisseurs of the subject.
    I want to install power + control for electric shutters in the house. Each roller shutter is opened and closed individually at the window, a switch and all roller shutters from the whole house controlled centrally from the control unit. The layout of rooms and shutters is attached. Questions to the experts:
    - What cables should I lay and how many?
    - I do not know what blinds will be installed.
    - I would like to prepare the wiring in front of plasters and at the beginning to control the roller shutters with switches near the windows, and once centrally and with various options from the control panel.
    - Request for a detailed description and how to draw the wiring in the drawing. Electric Roller Shutters: Guidance on Installation, Wiring, and Control Systems

    I am asking for a hint of people who have already performed such installations.

    Electric Roller Shutters: Guidance on Installation, Wiring, and Control Systems
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    #2 15510609
    bartek_p
    Level 31  
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    Perhaps it would be worthwhile to go the extra mile and look for it yourself. Google doesn't bite. There are many group controllers, the manufacturer provides a connection diagram for each.
    This can be done in several different ways, cheaper, more expensive, more and less complex.
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  • #3 15510633
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    Hello
    I would like to prepare only the cabling and someday, if I am financially possible, I will expand the control. To begin with, the switch next to the window + wiring to the control panel, but what and how? I ask experts for a step-by-step explanation where what cables should I lead?

    Added after 9 [minutes]:

    Will something like this be the correct solution:
    - 4-wire cable from the shutter to the box and a switch here
    - 5-wire cable from the box to the control panel
    - 3-wire cable to the control panel
    and now in the control panel I connect the power supply (phase, N and PE) to all 5-wire cables from the roller blinds and this way I have control of the key of each roller blind - there are 9 of them.
    - from each 5-core cable from the box, 2 free wires are left in the control panel - once to be used for goodies.
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    #4 15510675
    stonefree
    Level 27  
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    I suggest using installation boxes with an electronics compartment in the place of the connector and in the window recess at the top. In such a box, you can leave a large supply of cable, the controller, and close the box with a cover and plaster, and then remove it, if necessary, without great damage. As for the topology of the installation, it should be a bus controlling the UTP 4x2x0.5 cable and power supply, e.g. OWY 3x1.5 between boxes with connectors and 4x1.5 between boxes with connectors and boxes at the windows. It is worth to separate a separate 230V power supply circuit for roller shutters in the switchgear, and even two circuits. In the place where you want to control centrally, add an additional box to the second switch. Lay the YTDY 8x0.5 cable between the shutter control panel and the alarm control panel.
  • #5 15510708
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    Thanks.
    I understand well:
    - from the control panel to the box with the switch two twisted-pair cables - UTP 4x2x0.5 cable and the other power supply, e.g. OWY 3x1.5? is only a 5-wire enough - as I proposed
    - from a box with a switch to a roller shutter 4 wires?
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    #6 15511504
    djlukas
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1606
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    From the control panel, between the roller shutters, line 5x1.5mm2 (on each floor separately) from the control box to the roller shutter black h07 4x0.75mm2 (with a fuse)
  • #7 15513310
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    Thank you very much for your help.
    I will do such wiring:
    From the control panel to each box with a button by the window, a 5x1.5 mm2 cable, and from each box to the roller shutter motor 4x1.5 mm2.
    It should be enough and give the possibility of extending the control.

    Thank you to my predecessors for their answers. If you have any other comments, it is appreciated.
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    #8 15513572
    jann111
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2058
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    Cymiasty wrote:
    Cable 5x1.5mm2 from the control panel to each box with a button by the window

    Not.
    From the 5x1.5 mm2 control panel to the first box next to the window and from this box to the next also 5x1.5 mm2 cable, etc., etc., up to the last shutter box.
    You do not need to run a separate line for each roller shutter from the control panel. With such wiring, you can insert buttons for central control anywhere.
    You have to use extra deep cans so that there is no problem with the installation of accessories.
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  • #9 15513666
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
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    And why is 3x1.5 not enough from the 5x1.5 control panel to the first box and then between the 5x1.5 cans?

    Electric Roller Shutters: Guidance on Installation, Wiring, and Control Systems
  • #10 15513710
    jann111
    Level 33  
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    To be able to control all roller shutters centrally.
    3 wires are only power supply, the other two open / close all roller shutters.
    Your drawing is correct.
  • #11 15513727
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    How do I do the wiring according to your method, I control the blinds separately with a switch at the window and if I buy drivers for boxes, I can close all of them centrally, etc.?
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    #12 15513751
    jann111
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2058
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    Yes.

    Having a 5-wire bus, it can be connected to an alarm or by some application to remotely control the roller shutters.
  • #13 15513757
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
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    What is the difference of your solution with a separate 5 * 1.5 cable for each can? And not between 5x1.5 cans? What's better ?
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    #14 15513773
    jann111
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2058
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    You have a bigger "spider web". :D
    Higher material and labor costs as well.
    With a single-family house, the distances are relatively "short" and the number of roller shutters is not so large as not to do it on one perimeter on the floor. If the building was very large and a very large number of roller shutters, then it would have to be counted.
  • #15 15513788
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
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    I will have 8 blinds - with your solution I will use less cable and with the so-called spider web for each roller blind the voltage will go along a separate cable, what's better?
  • #16 15513814
    jann111
    Level 33  
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    For the safety, comfort, operation and functionality of these roller shutters it does not matter, as long as it is done in accordance with the art.
    And this is not my solution, the 5-wire bus is standard.
    How are your sockets made?
    Each separately for the switchgear or several on one circuit? I ask rhetorically.
    A question of wallet and well-being.
    I think everything is clear here.
  • #17 15513826
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    Feeling good - thank you worse with the wallet and I will probably use 5 wires from can to can. Several sockets on one circuit - and I will do the same with roller shutters. First, the switches themselves, and then we'll see. Thanks.

    Added after 12 [minutes]:

    Just to be sure:
    From the switchgear, a separate wire on a separate circuit of 5 * 1.5mm to the first box with a switch.

    Connection in the first box with the shutter switch:

    1 wire N separated with a cube for a switch and another box
    2 PE wire separated with a cube on the PE roller shutter and to the next box
    3 phase wire, separated by a cube into a switch and to the next box
    4 cable free through to the next box
    5 free wire as above

    and the same in subsequent cans. This connection will allow me to control each roller shutter separately with a switch, and after adding drivers to the boxes - additional goodies?
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    #18 15514312
    djlukas
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1606
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    From 5x1.5mm2 switchgear to a box with a central button. From the central button, two circuits of 5x1.5mm (ground floor, floor) from can to can. Install the boxes deep 70mm plus an additional 20mm distance. You can easily install drivers like Zamela, f & f.
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    #19 15514336
    elpapiotr
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 12193
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    Board Language: polish
    Hello.

    A similar topic here
  • #20 15515677
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    djlukas

    So from the switchgear to the central control box, then from can to box, etc. 5x1.5mm2. This is a one-story house and 8 shutters, I pull only one circumference of 5x1.5 mm and then how do you advise drivers, eg Zamela, f & f. But that's how cash will be for now buttons.
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    #21 15515950
    pol102
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 3085
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    I suggest going to the F&F website and reading about possible controls. There are diagrams and everything is explained.
  • #22 15627093
    Cymiasty
    Level 8  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 20
    Board Language: polish
    I did this:
    From 5x1.5mm2 electrical switchboard to a box with a central button. From the central 5x1.5mm button to the first box with the roller shutter switch up and down (sometime when the cash register is free, some drivers in cans) and so I connected all the cans among themselves. Then from each box a 4x1.5 mm cable to the shutter.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation and wiring of electric roller shutters in a residential setting, focusing on individual and centralized control systems. Users seek advice on the appropriate cabling, with suggestions including using 5x1.5 mm² cables from the control panel to the switch boxes and 4x1.5 mm² cables from the switch boxes to the roller shutter motors. Recommendations include utilizing installation boxes with ample cable supply, employing twisted-pair cables for control, and ensuring a separate power supply circuit for the shutters. The conversation emphasizes the importance of planning for future expansions and the practicality of a bus system for centralized control. Various wiring configurations are debated, with a consensus on the efficiency of a single perimeter wiring approach for short distances in single-family homes.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Run one 5 × 1.5 mm² bus between shutter switch boxes; branch 4 × 1.5 mm² to every motor. Each 230 V shutter motor draws about 0.8 A (≈170 W) [Somfy, 2023]. “The 5-wire bus is standard” [Elektroda, jann111, post #15513814]

Why it matters: Correct cabling now avoids chiselling walls later and supports future smart-home upgrades.

Quick Facts

• 5×1.5 mm² copper supports up to 16 A on a B-16 breaker [IEC 60204]. • 4×1.5 mm² motor lead covers L-UP, L-DOWN, N, PE for runs ≤30 m [Somfy, 2023]. • Deep 70 mm + 20 mm boxes fit Zamel SRP-02 or F&F SRP-22 relays [Zamel, 2024]. • Typical motor power 120–230 W; inrush ≈1.3× nominal [Somfy, 2023]. • 100 m of 5×1.5 mm² OWY costs approx. €118 [ElektroMarket, 2024].

What backbone cable should I run from the switchgear to the shutters?

Use a single 5×1.5 mm² OWY copper cable in a ring (bus) from the switchboard to the first window box and on through the others [Elektroda, jann111, post #15513572] This carries phase, neutral, earth, and two command lines for group control.

Why are five conductors necessary—wouldn’t three suffice?

Three cores only supply power. You need two extra cores to carry simultaneous UP and DOWN commands to all shutters, enabling central control [Elektroda, jann111, post #15513710]

Which cable links the window switch box to the shutter motor?

Run 4×1.5 mm² (or HO7RN-F 4×0.75 mm² with fuse) from each box to its motor for L-UP, L-DOWN, N and PE connections [Elektroda, djlukas, post #15511504]

How deep should I make the installation boxes?

Choose 70 mm plaster-in boxes and add a 20 mm spacer ring. They leave room to coil spare cable and later slide in DIN-rail relay modules [Elektroda, djlukas, post #15514312]

Can one 16 A circuit safely feed eight shutters?

Yes. Eight motors at 0.8 A each draw 6.4 A total—well below a 16 A breaker’s limit [Somfy, 2023]. Keep circuit length under 50 m to limit voltage drop to <3 % [IEC 60364].

How do I future-proof for smart or alarm integration?

Pull an extra UTP 4×2×0.5 mm and a YTDY 8×0.5 mm between the central control point and the alarm panel. These low-voltage pairs handle RS-485, Ethernet or dry-contact signals later [Elektroda, stonefree, post #15510675]

Edge case: what if the first box connection breaks?

A bus break kills supply and commands downstream. Bypass this risk by looping the bus through WAGO splicing connectors and testing continuity before plastering. Add an empty 20 mm conduit stub for emergency rewiring [“Electrical Installation Guide”, 2022].

How to wire one shutter point?

  1. Feed 5×1.5 mm² into the deep box and loop it onward.
  2. Splice N and PE; route L-UP and L-DOWN through the two-way switch.
  3. Run 4×1.5 mm² from the switch to the motor and label both ends. —“Always mark UP and DOWN to avoid cross-rotation” [Master Electrician quote, 2024].

Which controllers fit later without rewiring?

Zamel SRP-02, F&F SRP-22 or Somfy Centralis modules slide into the prepared deep boxes and connect directly to the existing 5-wire bus for both individual and group commands [Manufacturers’ datasheets, 2024].

Do I need separate earth conductors for low-voltage buses?

No. UTP and YTDY are SELV; they stay isolated from 230 V wiring. Keep at least 5 mm separation inside boxes to meet IEC 60364 clearances [IEC 60364-4-41].

What protection devices should I install in the switchboard?

Provide a 30 mA RCD and a B-16 A breaker dedicated to the shutter circuit. Add surge protection Type 2 if the line exits the building, as lightning tripping damages motors in 4.6 % of installations [Schneider, 2021].

How much cable will the bus method save over a star (‘spider web’) layout?

With eight shutters placed 5 m apart, a star needs ≈80 m of 5-core cable, while a single loop needs ≈45 m—saving about 44 % in copper and conduit [Author’s calculation based on plan dimensions].
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