FAQ
TL;DR: For flexible shutter control, wire power to each unit and terminate in the cabinet; an 8‑relay expander handles 4 shutters, and “one roller shutter occupies two relays.” Plan for local buttons and remote control from day one. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]
Why it matters: This layout lets you group, automate, or service shutters later without reopening walls—ideal for smart‑home upgrades and safety.
Quick Facts
- Typical topology: run 4×1.5 mm² from switchboard to each shutter; run YTKSY (twisted pair) to local buttons. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16862367]
- Minimum cross‑section for fixed 230 V house wiring: 1.5 mm² per referenced standard note. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16870525]
- Relay math: 1 shutter = 2 relays; INT‑ORS (8 relays) = 4 shutters total. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]
- Radio option: Proxima modules enable remote, sofa‑side control and an easy central button via a transmitter. [Elektroda, michualex, post #16863579]
- Hybrid resilience: Keep manual push‑buttons by wiring both to the panel and directly through the cabinet. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]
What’s the best way to route cabling for external roller shutters?
Plan your control first, then route. Home‑run 4‑core power from the switchboard to each shutter. Pull a twisted‑pair (YTKSY) from each local button back to the cabinet. This supports standalone button use and later integration. “There is no universal right way,” so design around desired control paths. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16862367]
Should I wire each shutter on its own line or share one circuit for many?
Use dedicated runs to each shutter for reliability and flexible grouping. Home‑run the power and bring button lines to the cabinet. This keeps manual operation if the controller is down and simplifies future scenes or schedules. It also avoids tracing shared‑circuit faults. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]
How many relays do I need per shutter and per expander?
Budget two relays per shutter (UP and DOWN). An 8‑output expander therefore serves four shutters. Quote: “one roller shutter occupies two relays.” This simple math helps size DIN‑rail hardware and cabinet space early. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]
Can I keep local button control if the alarm/control panel fails?
Yes. Wire four conductors to each push‑button and four conductors from the push‑button to the distribution board. This preserves manual operation while still allowing integration. If the panel fails, buttons continue to work. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]
What cable types and sizes should I plan for the shutters and buttons?
Run 4×1.5 mm² or 5×1.5 mm² to the shutter motors from the cabinet. Pull YTKSY signal cable to the local buttons. This supports both automation modules and independent switches without re‑wiring later. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16862367]
Is 7×0.75 mm² OK for 230 V shutter motors?
Avoid 0.75 mm² for fixed 230 V shutter wiring. Referenced guidance cites 1.5 mm² minimum for fixed, protected house wiring. Undersized conductors can overheat and fail protective coordination. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16870525]
How do radio modules (Proxima/Elmes) compare with hard‑wired expanders?
Radio modules install fast and add handheld remotes and easy central control via a programmed transmitter. Hard‑wired expanders offer deterministic control and neat cabinet integration. Many installers choose radio for convenience and wired for backbone reliability. [Elektroda, michualex, post #16863579]
I received INEL radio controllers with my Nice motors—can I start with these and upgrade later?
Yes. You can begin with the supplied radio controllers and remote. Plan a universal cable layout now so you can add panel‑based or smartphone control later without opening walls. Radio‑only setups limit changes after plastering. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16864513]
INT‑ORS vs IORS—what’s the practical difference when wiring buttons?
Outputs alone won’t handle physical buttons. If you deploy output expanders, also plan inputs for the push‑buttons. Some prefer IORS when they need both inputs and outputs at the cabinet for clean wiring and diagnostics. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16863531]
How do I set up a single central button to open/close all shutters?
Use a radio transmitter module configured as a central command and pair it with the receiver modules. Program the group action once, then trigger from the wall button or remote. It avoids long multi‑drop control cabling. [Elektroda, michualex, post #16863579]
How can I automate hallway lights to turn on with motion and dim at night?
Use a motion sensor feeding a controller, then switch lighting via SSRs or relays. A small controller (e.g., Arduino with Supla) can apply time‑based night scenes, such as 60% brightness. Keep the logic in the cabinet. [Elektroda, alankedzior, post #16866162]
What’s a safe “starter” wiring plan that covers local and remote control?
Do this: home‑run 4‑core power to each shutter; home‑run YTKSY from each button to the cabinet; terminate on DIN‑rail modules (e.g., INT‑ORS). You’ll support manual buttons, groups, and app control without re‑plastering. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]
Can I put many shutters on a single circuit?
It’s possible, but serviceability and selective control suffer. One poster’s electrician proposed ten shutters on one circuit; separate home‑runs make grouping and fault isolation much easier later. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16862326]
Any edge cases I should plan for with radio‑only control?
Yes. If a radio receiver fails or pairing is lost, you may lose control until you access the module. Maintain a hard‑wired fallback to avoid lockout after finishing walls. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16864513]
Quick 3‑step: How do I size relay hardware for my shutters?
- Count shutters and multiply by two to get relay outputs required.
- Divide by eight to estimate the number of 8‑output expanders.
- Add 20% spare for future groups or scenes.
[Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]
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