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What is the best way to route the installation for controlling external roller shutters?

rupert9 2757 15
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  • #1 16862326
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Hello
    I would like to ask a good way to lay electric installation for external roller shutters, the electrician wants to lay 10 roller shutters on one circuit, and I would like local control from a button and control from a smartphone, maybe integra for individual roller shutters or whole groups of roller shutters.
    In this situation, how would it be better to run one circuit to one roller shutter and whether, in this case, I still need a twisted pair to the local button for each roller shutter or maybe a connection on one circuit and also a twisted pair cable to each switch.


    I would like to ask what the control system is like, if I do not have single circuits to a receiver such as a socket or a switch, but a circuit with several sockets and several lighting points, is it then possible to control it somehow or is it then necessary to run an additional control cable?
    Best regards
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  • #2 16862367
    mick1
    Level 23  
    There is no universal 'right' way - it all depends on how you want to control. Whether you want the buttons to work without the control panel or not.
    I've only got the automation done and run 4x1.5 to each roller shutter from the switchboard and YTKSY to the buttons.
    Same with lighting - each point goes to the switchboard.
  • #3 16862372
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    I would like to control them locally and remotely, but if I have one circuit for all of them and an additional control cable, will I be able to control individual shutters remotely, probably via a relay?
    But would it be better to have a separate circuit for each roller shutter, without a control cable and with everything on the rail?
  • #4 16862492
    arcyimperator
    Level 14  
    Do you already have engines purchased? What brand?
  • #5 16862507
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Roller shutters are already fitted with four cables with end switches, motors from nice with m&s windows.

    Added after 1 [hours] 24 [minutes]:

    I have one more question, how can I make the traffic room lighting to light up when there is traffic and at night to light up the same way only with a slightly lower light intensity e.g. 60%.
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  • #6 16863491
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    rupert9 wrote:
    But it's probably better to do each one separately through a separate circuit and without the control cable and all on the rail?


    I recently did it this way from the switchboard 5x1.5 to the switch and from the switch to the roller shutter 4x1.5

    Everything is to be connected under the expanders placed in the switchboard https://aksonet.pl/pl/p/INT-ORS-Ekspander-8-w...rfOHSDTX3m7a_KDTc8ohuJvndUZ9mtEBoCg7YQAvD_BwE one roller shutter occupies two relays in the expander, so to one expander we connect four roller shutters.
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  • #7 16863531
    mick1
    Level 23  
    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where do you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satel?
    And if he does, how is he supposed to control these outputs without inputs? Why not IORS?
  • #8 16863557
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    mick1 wrote:
    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where did you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satellites?
    .

    Reading with understanding.... I described how I did it.
    And when you have comments the author mentions something about an integrator.

    rupert9 wrote:
    maybe an integra
    .
  • #9 16863579
    michualex

    Level 24  
    I recommend the Proxima system with remote control. The advantages for me are a nice and functional remote control. There is a transmitter in the system which, when given an impulse, sends a control command to the roller shutters. This can be controlled via the control panel.
    The simplicity of installation is also a plus. For me it has advantages over, for example, the ELMES system.

    I once wanted to do iors but there was the question of the remote control and the separate control of each roller shutter from the sofa without using the phone. I used the elmes system then but the second time I will buy proxime for sure. And I won't be messing around with Stretching meters of cables just a box with a place for the module and the part. If you want a central button, buy a transmitter, program it and go.
  • #10 16863942
    mick1
    Level 23  
    mawerix123 wrote:
    mick1 wrote:
    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where did you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satellites?
    .

    Reading with understanding.... I described how I did it.
    And when you have comments the author mentions something about an integrator.

    rupert9 wrote:
    maybe an integra
    .
    As for reading comprehension - you wrote that he must do so, not that you did so.
    As for the second part - mea culpa, you are right, but I still insist on IORS

    Edit: I'll add here so as not to expand this offtopic:
    Quote:
    Everything is to be connected under the Expanders located in the switchboard
    .
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  • #11 16863948
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    mick1 wrote:
    you wrote that it must do so
    .

    Where did I write so :?: .

    mick1 wrote:
    Edit: I'll add here so as not to expand this offtopic:
    Quote:
    Everything is to be connected under the Expanders located in the switchboard
    .

    I will write again that this statement refers to my installation....
    Let me clarify... I recently did an installation as I described, there are wires laid in the property, no switchgear....
    How to describe it to you so you understand hhmm, maybe like this

    In this particular project described, for the installation of roller shutters (and not only) are planned or are to be expanders shown in the link, maybe you can understand it.
  • #12 16864513
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Rest assured, gentlemen, I am very green on the subject so I will take any suggestions you may have. Together with the roller shutters I also received radio controllers and a remote control with several channels from inel. The controller has an input for 4 cables from the roller shutter motor to a contact for 3 inputs and a current for 3 inputs. I'm just wondering that this solution may work differently as it is after radio control and I can't control it remotely and after plastering I can't do anything, that's why I'm asking what would be the best universal connection. At the beginning I would like to connect what I have, but if it doesn't work then something else and I am going to install an alarm anyway, and I think I will choose an integra, but that's for later, when there is something left in my wallet.
  • #13 16866162
    alankedzior
    Level 11  
    I am going to run the cable from the roller shutter to the switch box with a 7x0.75mm cable from the switch box to the cabinet, the cross-section has to be selected according to the motor power. I will have zamela srm-10 relays in the cabinet, at the door I will have a push button from the central control, 4x.75 wire to the cabinet and srp-03 in the box. Remote control by ssr relays and arduino with supla software.
  • #14 16869949
    mick1
    Level 23  
    mawerix123: you still haven't convinced me. This is a forum, I have no intention of guessing what the writer meant. I am only writing about my subjective perception of what you wrote.
    alankedzior: I'm not an electrician, but it seems the standard doesn't allow you to run 230v over such wires.
    rupert9: If you want to have push buttons connected via an integrated system, you should run 4 wires to the roller shutters and the appropriate number of YTKSY to the contacts. If you want the roller shutters to operate via an integrator and in the event of an integrator fault (manually), you run 4 wires to the push buttons and 4 wires from the push buttons to the distribution board.
  • #15 16870265
    alankedzior
    Level 11  
    Mick1, I think you really should give yourself a break, have a look at the cable catalogue notes.
  • #16 16870525
    mick1
    Level 23  
    alankedzior: as I have already written, I may be writing nonsense, because I am not an electrician, but I am basing this on the DIN VDE 0100: 2002 standard, which for permanently installed cables protected from damage stipulates a minimum cross-section of 1.5mm
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