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What is the best way to route the installation for controlling external roller shutters?

rupert9 3192 15
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  • #1 16862326
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Posts: 4
    Hello
    I would like to ask a good way to lay electric installation for external roller shutters, the electrician wants to lay 10 roller shutters on one circuit, and I would like local control from a button and control from a smartphone, maybe integra for individual roller shutters or whole groups of roller shutters.
    In this situation, how would it be better to run one circuit to one roller shutter and whether, in this case, I still need a twisted pair to the local button for each roller shutter or maybe a connection on one circuit and also a twisted pair cable to each switch.


    I would like to ask what the control system is like, if I do not have single circuits to a receiver such as a socket or a switch, but a circuit with several sockets and several lighting points, is it then possible to control it somehow or is it then necessary to run an additional control cable?
    Best regards
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  • #2 16862367
    mick1
    Level 23  
    Posts: 543
    Help: 47
    Rate: 118
    There is no universal 'right' way - it all depends on how you want to control. Whether you want the buttons to work without the control panel or not.
    I've only got the automation done and run 4x1.5 to each roller shutter from the switchboard and YTKSY to the buttons.
    Same with lighting - each point goes to the switchboard.
  • #3 16862372
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Posts: 4
    I would like to control them locally and remotely, but if I have one circuit for all of them and an additional control cable, will I be able to control individual shutters remotely, probably via a relay?
    But would it be better to have a separate circuit for each roller shutter, without a control cable and with everything on the rail?
  • #4 16862492
    arcyimperator
    Level 14  
    Posts: 221
    Help: 2
    Rate: 18
    Do you already have engines purchased? What brand?
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  • #5 16862507
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Posts: 4
    Roller shutters are already fitted with four cables with end switches, motors from nice with m&s windows.

    Added after 1 [hours] 24 [minutes]:

    I have one more question, how can I make the traffic room lighting to light up when there is traffic and at night to light up the same way only with a slightly lower light intensity e.g. 60%.
  • #6 16863491
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4143
    Help: 482
    Rate: 949
    rupert9 wrote:
    But it's probably better to do each one separately through a separate circuit and without the control cable and all on the rail?


    I recently did it this way from the switchboard 5x1.5 to the switch and from the switch to the roller shutter 4x1.5

    Everything is to be connected under the expanders placed in the switchboard https://aksonet.pl/pl/p/INT-ORS-Ekspander-8-w...rfOHSDTX3m7a_KDTc8ohuJvndUZ9mtEBoCg7YQAvD_BwE one roller shutter occupies two relays in the expander, so to one expander we connect four roller shutters.
  • #7 16863531
    mick1
    Level 23  
    Posts: 543
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    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where do you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satel?
    And if he does, how is he supposed to control these outputs without inputs? Why not IORS?
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  • #8 16863557
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
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    mick1 wrote:
    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where did you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satellites?
    .

    Reading with understanding.... I described how I did it.
    And when you have comments the author mentions something about an integrator.

    rupert9 wrote:
    maybe an integra
    .
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  • #9 16863579
    michualex

    Level 24  
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    I recommend the Proxima system with remote control. The advantages for me are a nice and functional remote control. There is a transmitter in the system which, when given an impulse, sends a control command to the roller shutters. This can be controlled via the control panel.
    The simplicity of installation is also a plus. For me it has advantages over, for example, the ELMES system.

    I once wanted to do iors but there was the question of the remote control and the separate control of each roller shutter from the sofa without using the phone. I used the elmes system then but the second time I will buy proxime for sure. And I won't be messing around with Stretching meters of cables just a box with a place for the module and the part. If you want a central button, buy a transmitter, program it and go.
    Company Account:
    MK ALARMY
    Widziszewo, Długa 3, Kościan, 64-000 | Tel.: 663XXXXXX (Show) | Company Website: www.mkalarmy.pl
  • #10 16863942
    mick1
    Level 23  
    Posts: 543
    Help: 47
    Rate: 118
    mawerix123 wrote:
    mick1 wrote:
    mawerix123: just out of curiosity - where did you get the assumption that the author wants to do this on satellites?
    .

    Reading with understanding.... I described how I did it.
    And when you have comments the author mentions something about an integrator.

    rupert9 wrote:
    maybe an integra
    .
    As for reading comprehension - you wrote that he must do so, not that you did so.
    As for the second part - mea culpa, you are right, but I still insist on IORS

    Edit: I'll add here so as not to expand this offtopic:
    Quote:
    Everything is to be connected under the Expanders located in the switchboard
    .
  • #11 16863948
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
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    mick1 wrote:
    you wrote that it must do so
    .

    Where did I write so :?: .

    mick1 wrote:
    Edit: I'll add here so as not to expand this offtopic:
    Quote:
    Everything is to be connected under the Expanders located in the switchboard
    .

    I will write again that this statement refers to my installation....
    Let me clarify... I recently did an installation as I described, there are wires laid in the property, no switchgear....
    How to describe it to you so you understand hhmm, maybe like this

    In this particular project described, for the installation of roller shutters (and not only) are planned or are to be expanders shown in the link, maybe you can understand it.
  • #12 16864513
    rupert9
    Level 8  
    Posts: 4
    Rest assured, gentlemen, I am very green on the subject so I will take any suggestions you may have. Together with the roller shutters I also received radio controllers and a remote control with several channels from inel. The controller has an input for 4 cables from the roller shutter motor to a contact for 3 inputs and a current for 3 inputs. I'm just wondering that this solution may work differently as it is after radio control and I can't control it remotely and after plastering I can't do anything, that's why I'm asking what would be the best universal connection. At the beginning I would like to connect what I have, but if it doesn't work then something else and I am going to install an alarm anyway, and I think I will choose an integra, but that's for later, when there is something left in my wallet.
  • #13 16866162
    alankedzior
    Level 11  
    Posts: 89
    Help: 1
    Rate: 31
    I am going to run the cable from the roller shutter to the switch box with a 7x0.75mm cable from the switch box to the cabinet, the cross-section has to be selected according to the motor power. I will have zamela srm-10 relays in the cabinet, at the door I will have a push button from the central control, 4x.75 wire to the cabinet and srp-03 in the box. Remote control by ssr relays and arduino with supla software.
  • #14 16869949
    mick1
    Level 23  
    Posts: 543
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    Rate: 118
    mawerix123: you still haven't convinced me. This is a forum, I have no intention of guessing what the writer meant. I am only writing about my subjective perception of what you wrote.
    alankedzior: I'm not an electrician, but it seems the standard doesn't allow you to run 230v over such wires.
    rupert9: If you want to have push buttons connected via an integrated system, you should run 4 wires to the roller shutters and the appropriate number of YTKSY to the contacts. If you want the roller shutters to operate via an integrator and in the event of an integrator fault (manually), you run 4 wires to the push buttons and 4 wires from the push buttons to the distribution board.
  • #15 16870265
    alankedzior
    Level 11  
    Posts: 89
    Help: 1
    Rate: 31
    Mick1, I think you really should give yourself a break, have a look at the cable catalogue notes.
  • #16 16870525
    mick1
    Level 23  
    Posts: 543
    Help: 47
    Rate: 118
    alankedzior: as I have already written, I may be writing nonsense, because I am not an electrician, but I am basing this on the DIN VDE 0100: 2002 standard, which for permanently installed cables protected from damage stipulates a minimum cross-section of 1.5mm
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses optimal wiring strategies for controlling external roller shutters with both local button control and remote smartphone operation. Key considerations include whether to run individual circuits for each roller shutter or a single circuit for multiple shutters, and the necessity of twisted pair cables for local button connections. Several wiring approaches are described: running 4x1.5 mm² cables from the switchboard to each shutter motor and YTKSY cables to buttons; using expanders (e.g., Satel INT-ORS) with relays to control multiple shutters from a single circuit; and employing 7x0.75 mm cables sized according to motor power for connections to relay modules like Zamela SRM-10. Control systems discussed include radio controllers with multi-channel remotes (Inel), integration with alarm systems (Integra), and DIY solutions using SSR relays and Arduino with Supla software. The Proxima system is recommended for its ease of installation and remote control capabilities, offering advantages over systems like Elmes and IORS. Standards such as DIN VDE 0100:2002 are referenced regarding minimum cable cross-sections for safety. The importance of running separate control cables to ensure manual operation in case of integrator failure is emphasized. Additionally, lighting control with adjustable intensity based on occupancy and time is briefly mentioned.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For flexible shutter control, wire power to each unit and terminate in the cabinet; an 8‑relay expander handles 4 shutters, and “one roller shutter occupies two relays.” Plan for local buttons and remote control from day one. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491] Why it matters: This layout lets you group, automate, or service shutters later without reopening walls—ideal for smart‑home upgrades and safety.

Quick Facts

What’s the best way to route cabling for external roller shutters?

Plan your control first, then route. Home‑run 4‑core power from the switchboard to each shutter. Pull a twisted‑pair (YTKSY) from each local button back to the cabinet. This supports standalone button use and later integration. “There is no universal right way,” so design around desired control paths. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16862367]

Should I wire each shutter on its own line or share one circuit for many?

Use dedicated runs to each shutter for reliability and flexible grouping. Home‑run the power and bring button lines to the cabinet. This keeps manual operation if the controller is down and simplifies future scenes or schedules. It also avoids tracing shared‑circuit faults. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]

How many relays do I need per shutter and per expander?

Budget two relays per shutter (UP and DOWN). An 8‑output expander therefore serves four shutters. Quote: “one roller shutter occupies two relays.” This simple math helps size DIN‑rail hardware and cabinet space early. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]

Can I keep local button control if the alarm/control panel fails?

Yes. Wire four conductors to each push‑button and four conductors from the push‑button to the distribution board. This preserves manual operation while still allowing integration. If the panel fails, buttons continue to work. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]

What cable types and sizes should I plan for the shutters and buttons?

Run 4×1.5 mm² or 5×1.5 mm² to the shutter motors from the cabinet. Pull YTKSY signal cable to the local buttons. This supports both automation modules and independent switches without re‑wiring later. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16862367]

Is 7×0.75 mm² OK for 230 V shutter motors?

Avoid 0.75 mm² for fixed 230 V shutter wiring. Referenced guidance cites 1.5 mm² minimum for fixed, protected house wiring. Undersized conductors can overheat and fail protective coordination. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16870525]

How do radio modules (Proxima/Elmes) compare with hard‑wired expanders?

Radio modules install fast and add handheld remotes and easy central control via a programmed transmitter. Hard‑wired expanders offer deterministic control and neat cabinet integration. Many installers choose radio for convenience and wired for backbone reliability. [Elektroda, michualex, post #16863579]

I received INEL radio controllers with my Nice motors—can I start with these and upgrade later?

Yes. You can begin with the supplied radio controllers and remote. Plan a universal cable layout now so you can add panel‑based or smartphone control later without opening walls. Radio‑only setups limit changes after plastering. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16864513]

INT‑ORS vs IORS—what’s the practical difference when wiring buttons?

Outputs alone won’t handle physical buttons. If you deploy output expanders, also plan inputs for the push‑buttons. Some prefer IORS when they need both inputs and outputs at the cabinet for clean wiring and diagnostics. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16863531]

How do I set up a single central button to open/close all shutters?

Use a radio transmitter module configured as a central command and pair it with the receiver modules. Program the group action once, then trigger from the wall button or remote. It avoids long multi‑drop control cabling. [Elektroda, michualex, post #16863579]

How can I automate hallway lights to turn on with motion and dim at night?

Use a motion sensor feeding a controller, then switch lighting via SSRs or relays. A small controller (e.g., Arduino with Supla) can apply time‑based night scenes, such as 60% brightness. Keep the logic in the cabinet. [Elektroda, alankedzior, post #16866162]

What’s a safe “starter” wiring plan that covers local and remote control?

Do this: home‑run 4‑core power to each shutter; home‑run YTKSY from each button to the cabinet; terminate on DIN‑rail modules (e.g., INT‑ORS). You’ll support manual buttons, groups, and app control without re‑plastering. [Elektroda, mick1, post #16869949]

Can I put many shutters on a single circuit?

It’s possible, but serviceability and selective control suffer. One poster’s electrician proposed ten shutters on one circuit; separate home‑runs make grouping and fault isolation much easier later. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16862326]

Any edge cases I should plan for with radio‑only control?

Yes. If a radio receiver fails or pairing is lost, you may lose control until you access the module. Maintain a hard‑wired fallback to avoid lockout after finishing walls. [Elektroda, rupert9, post #16864513]

Quick 3‑step: How do I size relay hardware for my shutters?

  1. Count shutters and multiply by two to get relay outputs required.
  2. Divide by eight to estimate the number of 8‑output expanders.
  3. Add 20% spare for future groups or scenes. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16863491]
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