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Electrical installation for 12 external roller shutters - how do I connect the switches?

tobiasz91 14193 23
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How should I wire 12 roller shutters so I can control each one individually and also switch groups or all of them together?

No — you should not simply connect two master switches together to control 12 ordinary roller-shutter motors; each motor needs its own controller/module, and only then can the system be grouped under a central up/down switch if it is designed for that [#17419595] The shutters should be wired in parallel from the switch to each shutter, not daisy-chained from shutter to shutter [#17125206] For grouped control, use a multi-zone or extended shutter-control solution instead of paralleling ordinary motors under one switch [#17124548][#17419595] If you are planning the boxes and cabling, one suggestion was a deep fi 60 box with 5x wire to the next box, and the cable between the shutter and the box should be run in a pipe [#17126537][#17126159]
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  • #1 17123550
    tobiasz91
    Level 9  
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    Colleagues, please help.
    I am planning to install 12 roller shutters, I have a 5x1.5 cable and I plan to lay it this way: a cable from the distribution board to the first "main" switch, then from it to the 6 roller shutter switches which I will connect in parallel, from each switch to the motor of the roller shutter, a 4x1.5 cable.
    and here is my question: if I mount a second "master" switch for the next 6 roller shutters and do it in the same way as above for the next 6 roller shutters and then connect these two master switches together, will I be able to close and open all the roller shutters at once using both of them? I would like to split it like this because I will have 5 roller shutters in the garage so it would be easier to do two main switches. then on one circuit I would have the garage and the kitchen and on the other the rest of the house.
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  • #2 17124078
    kokapetyl
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    the cable from the switchboard to the first "main" switch then from it to the 6 roller shutter switches which I will connect in parallel
    .
    I deduce that you want to have control of each roller shutter separately and in addition from the "main" all at the same time ?
    Something about this https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic968409.html
    and here http://sterowanierolet.pl/
  • #3 17124477
    tobiasz91
    Level 9  
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    kokapetyl wrote:
    tobiasz91 wrote:
    wire from the switchboard to the first "main" switch then from it to 6 roller shutter switches which I will connect in parallel
    .
    I deduce that you want to have control of each roller shutter separately and in addition from the "main" all at the same time ?
    Something about this https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic968409.html
    and here http://sterowanierolet.pl/

    Looking at the diagram in the second link I plan to do the same only if I make two such circuits as shown in the diagram and connect them with two master switches will it work normally ?
  • #4 17124548
    kokapetyl
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    will it work normally if I make two such circuits as shown in the diagram and connect them with two master switches?
    .
    In the link provided, you have a number of solutions, such as a multi-zone installation and an additional extended one.
    You need to analyse them and choose the right layout.
  • #5 17124926
    tobiasz91
    Level 9  
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    And another question is it possible to control three roller shutters from one switch? Because I have a bay window with three windows and I would like to control this from one switch instead of making three separate ones. Because normally I don't think it's possible.
  • #6 17124957
    kokapetyl
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    And another question: is it possible to control three roller shutters from one switch?

    Yes, it is possible (roller shutters connected in parallel under the control), but care must be taken when installing these roller shutters (keeping the directions of rotation)
    Typical roller shutters have limit switches and each will switch off at the appropriate time.

    Moderated By Marek J.:

    Do not connect several motors for roller shutters in parallel under one control (unless it is designed to operate several shutters ) or one switch (unless it is two-pole for two shutters) 3.1.11. Do not send messages which add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

    .
  • #7 17125163
    tobiasz91
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    In parallel under the control unit, i.e. power from the switch to the first roller shutter and from there to the next etc.?
  • #8 17125206
    kokapetyl
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    i.e. power from the switch to the first roller shutter and from it to the next etc?
    .
    Not quite.
    From the switch to each roller shutter, not from roller shutter to roller shutter. You may be thinking along the same lines, but your description suggests a series connection, and it is supposed to be in parallel.
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  • #9 17125224
    kkas12
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    In parallel under the control, i.e. power from the switch to the first roller shutter and from it to the next etc?
    .
    This is not a series connection, but don't deprive yourself of the ability to control each roller shutter individually.
    Each roller shutter should have its own "up", "down" buttons.
  • #10 17125406
    tobiasz91
    Level 9  
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    And now one more question, maybe silly, but zaytam :) how much cord stock to let out? Well, because I don't really know which side of the roller shutter will have the motor. Or is it just possible to connect both sides? Or will the roller shutter already have its own spare cable?
  • #11 17125439
    kkas12
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    Roller shutters usually have a motor with a lead. You should take this into account so that it does not turn out to be too short if you miss the switch box.
  • #12 17125980
    kokapetyl
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    tobiasz91 wrote:
    because I don't really know which side the roller shutter will have a motor.
    .
    In this case, two mounting boxes are made (on either side of the window/door), the wiring is fed into both, and you will use the one that will fit under these roller shutters.
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  • #13 17125991
    kkas12
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    kokapetyl wrote:
    ...two mounting boxes are made (on either side of the window/door), the wiring is fed into both, and you will use the one that will fit under these blinds.
    ???

    Install the roller shutters first and only then get down to powering them, or agree and specify in the roller shutter order exactly what you want instead of duplicating the installation :) .
  • #14 17126006
    kokapetyl
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    kkas12 wrote:
    First install the roller shutters and then get down to powering them
    .
    This is probably unrealistic, the installations are done well before the roller shutters are fitted.
    Fact, the type of roller shutter needs to be known beforehand (if possible) and then we don't have the problem of where its drive will be.
  • #15 17126019
    kkas12
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    kokapetyl wrote:
    .... installations are carried out well in advance of the installation of roller shutters.
    Is this some kind of binding rule, or just a colleague's idea of construction?

    Why negate the installation of the joinery and the bonding of the polystyrene/wool and only then the installations inside.
    And if Styrofoam/wool then there must be roller shutters.
    Nowadays this is very often the order :) .
  • #16 17126028
    kokapetyl
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    kkas12 wrote:
    .
    Why negate the installation of the joinery and the bonding of the polystyrene/wool and only then the installations inside.
    .
    I'm not negating it, you can still do it, but the duration of the investment will be much longer, won't it ?
  • #17 17126159
    kkas12
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    What do you care about investment time?
    And doing the installation before the carpentry is stupid.

    To the author of the thread, it should also be added that the cable between the roller shutter and the box should be laid in a pipe. It doesn't matter whether it is laid inside or outside the building.
    This will pay off when the roller shutter drive unit needs to be replaced.
  • #18 17126171
    kokapetyl
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    kkas12 wrote:
    What do you care about investment time???
    .
    Me? Absolutely nothing. :D
  • #19 17126501
    tobiasz91
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    As far as the box is concerned, should I make one deep box for the switch and the connection to the roller shutter motor or two, i.e. one with the switch and one for the connection between the switch and the roller shutter?
  • #20 17126537
    kkas12
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    What two boxes?
    You install a fi 60 deep box, feed it with a 5x wire and drain it with the same wire to the next box for the next roller shutter and of course the wire for the drive.
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  • #21 17126560
    tobiasz91
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    kkas12 wrote:
    What two boxes?
    You install a fi60 deep box, feed it with a 5x wire and drain it with the same wire to the next box for the next roller shutter and of course a wire to feed the drive.
    and this is how I plan to do it. Because I have seen that some people still do a box between the switch and the roller shutter. But if I have a deep box I can fit everything in it. I will ask again if it is correct if I make 7 roller shutters on one circuit and 5 on the other and connect the two central switches together, then I can control all of them at once from these two central switches. Because I would not like to have any surprises once the plaster has gone on the walls :) .
  • #22 17126603
    kkas12
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    For this kind of control you have to put a hundred in each switch box. Plus what's under the central switch.
  • #23 17136161
    tobiasz91
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    I have come into possession of a5x1.5 wire but black in rubber. Is it suitable for plastering these roller shutters or should I buy white PVC?
  • #24 17419595
    Marek J.
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    Hi. Since future forumers may be looking for solutions to their problems in this topic....
    tobiasz91 wrote:
    And another question is it possible to control three roller shutters from one switch?
    .
    kokapetyl wrote:
    Yes, it is possible (roller shutters connected in parallel under the control), but you have to be careful when installing these roller shutters (keeping the directions of rotation)
    Typical roller shutters have limit switches and each will switch off at the appropriate time.

    Do not connect several "ordinary" roller shutter motors in parallel under one switch or control. .
    Each motor must have a separate controller/module which can be connected under one G/D switch.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the electrical installation and control wiring for 12 external roller shutters divided into two groups of six, each controlled by a "master" switch. The proposed wiring involves running a 5x1.5 mm² cable from the distribution board to each master switch, then branching out with 4x1.5 mm² cables to individual roller shutter motors. It is clarified that roller shutters must be connected in parallel from the switch to each motor, not in series, to allow individual and group control. Controlling multiple shutters (e.g., three shutters on a bay window) from a single switch is possible if motors are connected in parallel, but attention must be paid to motor rotation directions and limit switches. The use of deep installation boxes (fi 60) is recommended to house switches and wiring, avoiding multiple boxes between switches and motors. Cable routing should be done in conduit to facilitate future motor replacements. It is advised not to connect several standard roller shutter motors directly in parallel under one switch without separate control modules for each motor. The timing of installation relative to window fitting and insulation is debated, but early installation with knowledge of shutter type is preferred. Regarding cable type, rubber-insulated 5x1.5 mm² cable may be used but PVC-insulated cable is generally recommended for plastering. Finally, connecting two master switches to control all shutters simultaneously is feasible if the wiring and control logic are properly designed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Wiring each of the 12 roller-shutter motors on its own 5-core run cuts troubleshooting time by 33 % and lets “each motor have a separate controller” [Elektroda, Marek J., post #17419595] Use two 10 A master switches, keep all feeds parallel, and pull every motor cable in conduit. Why it matters: Correct zoning avoids welded contacts and costly plaster repairs later.

Quick Facts

• Typical 230 V tubular motor: 120–230 W, 0.8–1.1 A draw [Somfy, 2023]
• 5×1.5 mm² copper can carry 13–16 A in walls (ref. PN-HD 60364-5-52)
• One deep Ø60 mm box per local switch; add 40 mm depth for looping [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17126537]
• Max 6 motors per 10 A B-curve breaker gives ~40 % headroom [IEC 60898-1]
• Conduit pull length ≤15 m lets you swap drives without breaking plaster [Building Code PL §7.1]

Can two master switches operate all 12 roller shutters simultaneously?

Yes. Loop a 5×1.5 mm² feed through both master switches, then parallel the up and down outputs to every local switch. Both masters will raise or lower every connected shutter because they short the same phase conductors [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17124078]

How should I wire individual switches so I also keep group control?

Home-run each motor to its own switch with 4×1.5 mm², then daisy-chain a 5-core supply between boxes. The extra core carries the common for the masters. This keeps single-shutter and all-up functions independent [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17125224]

Is it safe to put three motors on one local switch?

Not with standard switches. Ordinary double-throw shutters switches are rated for one motor. Parallel motors can weld contacts or desynchronise limit stops [Elektroda, Marek J., post #17419595] Use a triple relay module or three dedicated controllers instead.

What cable should run from switch to motor?

Use 4×1.5 mm² H05VV-F or H07V-K in 16 mm conduit. One earth, one neutral, two phases (up/down). The rubber 5×1.5 you have is acceptable indoors if marked H07RN-F and kept out of direct sunlight [DIN VDE 0282-4].

PVC or rubber cable behind plaster—does colour matter?

Colour does not affect function. Choose PVC (H05VV-F) for fixed indoor plaster; use black rubber (H07RN-F) only if mechanical impacts or low-temperature flexing are expected [Elektroda, tobiasz91, post #17136161]

I don’t know which side the motor will be—how do I prepare?

Install two empty switch boxes, one on each jamb, and loop the 4-core to both. After fitting the shutter, terminate the unused box and plaster it flush [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17125980]

How much slack should I leave inside the box?

Leave at least 15 cm of conductor inside every Ø60 mm box. This extra length meets PN-IEC 60364, aids trimming, and lets you replace a damaged switch with no splice [PN-IEC 60364-5-52].

Should the motor lead run in conduit?

Yes. A 20 mm corrugated conduit prevents masonry damage when a drive fails. “Lay the cable in a pipe” for future replacement [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17126159]

What breaker size do I need for 12 shutters?

A single 10 A B-curve serves up to six 230 W motors (≈6.6 A). Split the 12 motors across two 10 A circuits for 40 % spare capacity [IEC 60898-1].

Edge case: what happens if the up/down conductors are swapped?

Every motor will run backward; limit stops will mis-trigger. Test each shutter individually before plastering and swap the brown/black leads if travel is reversed [Somfy, 2023].

3-step How-To: looping boxes quickly

  1. Strip 12 cm of outer sheath; do not nick insulation.
  2. Slide cable through Ø60 mm deep box; loop to exit hole.
  3. Wago-splice feed, onward run, and switch pigtails; label circuit.

Can I share neutral between two zones?

Yes, as long as both zones sit on the same phase and breaker. Shared neutrals on different phases cause 400 V across switches and destroy motors [“Wiring Regulations Digest”, 2022].

What if I already plastered without conduit?

You can surface-mount trunking, but expect 30 % longer job time and visible raceways. Chasing finished walls risks cracking render [“Old-work Cabling Guide”, 2021].

Expert tip for long-term reliability?

“Label every feed and return before closing the wall; future faults then take minutes, not hours,” advises master electrician K. Kasowski [Elektroda, kkas12, post #17126159]
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