Wiring Plan for External Roller Shutters: Switches for Individual and Group Control

Hello!

I'm thinking about installing a system for external blinds in our house, and I don't know how to go about it in the best possible way for the future. At the moment, we don't know what kind of blinds or shutters we are going to install in the future, and we will have to install them slowly, as we will be doing the plastering in the autumn.
I have a question about how to fit the wires into the installation:

Downstairs I have 7 windows , at each window I want to have a switch to open and close the blinds ( 1st group).
Upstairs I have 5 windows (2nd group)
In the garage I have 3 windows ( 3rd group)

I want to have a switch for each window and a switch for each group to control each group, and in the corridor at the entrance to the house I want to have one main switch to control all the roller shutters (all groups).

I plan to run the power supply on a separate circuit, using a 3-core 1.5mm cable to each window box, then a 4-core 1.5mm cable from the window box to the motor on the roller shutter, and a 4-core 1.5mm cable from each box back to the group switch. Then connect e.g. these 7 windows in the group switch, so that the group switch closes the group.
Then connect the 4-core 1.5mm cable from each group switch to the central switch at the entrance.

Does it make sense to connect them in boxes in this way or is it better to connect each box to a central unit and connect everything in the central unit and then send it from the central unit to individual group switches and one central switch?

Is a 4-core cable sufficient or would a 5-core cable be better? In future we would also like to control everything via a smartphone.

kind regards

Hello
I recently saw a roller shutter system on a building site. Only 3x1.5mm2 cable supplied to each roller shutter. On the wall by the window mounted controllers for each roller shutter separately glued to the wall battery power for local control.
Additionally a remote control to control the roller shutters. In several places mounted buttons for central closing and opening of the roller shutters. All done using a radio system. I am not naming the manufacturer or someone will say I am advertising something here.

Zwierzyn wrote:

buttoned-to-the-wall battery power supply for local control.

Well ...... Batteries need to be changed. Even if it's once every few years, it's bound to be at a time when we want to shut them down quickly (and go on a long journey).

Besides, it's another source of radio waves, of which there aren't many in the house anyway (and there will be more to come), so interference, interference etc....

Yes, when there is no possibility of laying wires then by all means. But when there are?

There should be enough 5x1.5mm2 cable for each box (from box to box and finally to the distribution board) and install deep boxes so that the controllers fit in

And connections like this, for example:
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There are many controllers, and each manufacturer is sure to present a method of connection

I am also in favour of wired control. If you don't want to stuff the windows with "electronics" (if you have space for an additional roller shutter switchboard), you can use 4 x 1.5 cable for the motors (N + Up + Down + PE), and 3-4 x 1.5 cables for local, group and central switches (L + Up + Down; and PE - because you may want to have some fancy metal switches).
Use SRM-10/11 modular roller shutter controllers (Zamel /or other manufacturer) in the switchboard and crossover/group accordingly.
You can use a PLC instead of roller shutter controllers - it will come out not much more expensive and you can get a comfortable platform for managing roller shutters (grouping, time of opening/closing, remote management via multi-channel WiFi/ Ethernet devices.

pafciowaw wrote:

If you don't want to stuff "electronics" near the windows (if you have space for an additional roller shutter switchboard) you can give a cable 4 x 1.5 (N + Up + Down + PE) to the motors, from local, group and central switches give cables 3-4 x 1.5 (L + Up + Down; and PE - because you may want to have some fancy metal switches?)

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It all depends on where the user wants to place the switches for local control. This is usually by the windows, and often by the entrance door to the room. Then, in my opinion, it is most convenient to run a 5x1.5mm2 cable to each box and a 4x1.5mm2 cable from the box to the motor (provided the cables from the motors are too short). Group switches can be placed next to each other at the entrance door. Then you won't need an overall switch, which will simplify the installation a bit and save a few gold, and the functionality will be similar.

Recently, when we were laying out the electrical installations and running the wires to the external roller shutters, the company that installed them wanted a 3x1 wire to each roller shutter directly from the switchboard. Each roller shutter had its own protection. And they were all radio-controlled by remote control.

Be careful with these 4x wires, because you'll end up with some Somfy somethingtam drive and get wire number 5 in white. Supposedly responsible for calibration. That's why lately I've been pushing 5x 0.75 , 5x1 , 5x1.5 everywhere.

I propose a system like this. You will do everything on it as you wanted:
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I would also add a twisted-pair cable from each switch to the place where the control panel will be, so that in future everything can be managed from one place/remotely.

sosarek wrote:

I would also add a twisted-pair cable from each switch to the place where the control panel will be, in order to be able to manage everything from one place/remotely in the future.

This is a rather poor idea...due to the permissible voltages that "twisted pair" can transmit. Unless you are planning to use something not yet foreseeable instead of "today's" modules, e.g. STR (F&F), SRP (Zamel)....

maziar1000 wrote:

I suggest such a system

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Also requires 5 conductors

shyna15 wrote:

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Will 4 conductors be sufficient or is 5 conductors better?

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5 conductors is better.

pafciowaw wrote:

This is a rather poor idea...due to the permissible voltages that "twisted pair" can transmit.

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Well, what's the problem of supplying all the motors from the electrical switchgear additionally with relays/relay modules controlled by a low state, then the keys are used as potential-free contacts.

You can always hang yourself MREL2p add-on modules from Ampio. Connect them via CAN and you're done. More possibilities with relatively little more money...

sosarek wrote:

Well, what a problem to supply all motors from the electrical switchgear additionally by means of relays/relay modules controlled by a low state, then the keys are used as potential-free contacts.

This can be done, but it is also possible to control roller shutters using 5x smat and traditionally with buttons by applying power, in case of problems with the automation you can still control the roller shutters in the "traditional" way

Thank you for your quick answers.

Do I understand correctly that it would be a good solution for me to run a wire from each box at the window (switch to the roller shutter) to the roller shutter distribution board, 5 x 1.5mm, and from each box to each motor 4 x 1.5m.... This means that in the roller shutter distribution panel I would have 15 (number of roller shutters) wires (5 x 1.5mm) from each button, from the distribution panel I would additionally lead 2 times 5 wires to two group buttons and 1 time 5 wires to one main button at the entrance to the house. Is it enough to distribute the wires in such a way so that everything works and can I connect everything in the switchboard in this way so that it works? I plan to make a switchboard in the boiler room, not far from the electrical switchboard, is it sufficient to connect one circuit to the roller shutter switchboard? What kind of shutter switchboard should I buy so that there is enough space to accommodate the rails and controllers? What is the professional name for this "roller shutter switchboard"? What is the best cable, line?

I apologise in advance for such questions, but I'm not an electrician, I only want to run the cables with a friend and I want to hire a professional to connect it all up.

kind regards

You place the roller shutter control in the local button box (at the window). And you also feed the cable from the roller shutter there. Usually these wires are long enough.
In the simplest case, you run a 5x cable from this junction box to the junction box at the next window, then to the third window until you have covered all the windows in the group. The next step is to run a wire to the group switch. You can do this from any box, but it's best to use the outermost boxes for this - because there are the fewest wires to be crammed into the box after all.
From the group switch junction box (in which the signal separator must fit), you lead the cable to the central switch junction box and from there to the main switchboard (this section can only be 3x).

You can also make it so that you lead the wires from the group switch boxes to a separate "roller shutter" switchboard (or to the main switchboard if there is enough space in it). There you also feed the wire from the central switch and the power supply. This is where you place the separators and make the necessary connections.

And third option: You feed the wires from all the switch boxes into the "roller shutter" switchboard, and make all the connections there.
This solution has the advantage that you have all the windows in one place and can think about their individual remote control.