Mazda 6GH 2008 - Bose GS1E 66 920A The history of a certain amplifier part 1

KrisNext Would be nice. I would like to add that the preout from Alpine = 2V / 10k ohm maximum.
Thanks in advance.

Hello.

I would like to thank you for the tips in repairing the amplifier. It helped me and if someone needs help in repairing from Warsaw and the surrounding area, I can help with the repair (I have parts and can replace them)

I'm glad it helped

Today the same fault occurred in my Mazda 6, the center front speaker makes noises like a machine gun, the rest are silent. I came across this topic for which I thank the author very much After removing the amplifier, all symptoms coincide, i.e. continuous resets from the main stabilizer and non-responding DSP. The 1.25V floating voltage is probably the fault of the ST2L05 stabilizer, but of the solders underneath it - as you can see in the system datasheet, only 3.3V is set "rigidly" in the structure, the second branch is regulated.



On the board, the ADJ pin is connected directly to the output, through the 0Ohm jumper. Probably a crack in the solder on this pin (due to vibration) breaks the feedback loop and causes voltage damaging the DSP.



Best regards, thank you to the author and good luck to the rest of the repairs

After the repair, check the temperature stability. I met a system that supposedly works properly, but after mounting to the car in severe frosts it starts to rustle

Hi Kris. Which year was your Mazda from? Which model generation was it?

Hi
2008 Mazda HG version

Thanks. Well, it's in the title. Very nice drawing, thanks for him.

I have an amplifier marked GS1E 66 A20 in Mazda 6 GH 2010 from UK.

Do you think the connections will look the same? The plugs are the same.

For me, this Bose equipment works so great that I'm just buying an Alpine radio and hooking it up without that Bose shit. I don't know who came up with the idea that Bose is a good company. In my case, everything sounds as it should, except that you cannot hear half of the lower frequencies despite the subwoofer in the spare wheel. On the other hand, you can hear the rumble with every beat of the drum. Centuries ago, my Cassette Kasprzak had better sound quality.
Bose avoid a wide berth, because there are only problems with connecting the radio from another manufacturer, because the plugs do not fit and you need to buy an adapter.

I do not know how it is in a different amplifier model and in a different car it may be the same, but it may also be different.
If you are dissatisfied with the barefoot equipment, write it to the factory, because I don't feel like it ... You may also have something broken ...

This, of course, was not meant to be a touch to you.

It's just like that, maybe someone will read it someday looking for information why his equipment is so tragic and will see that this equipment is just like that.

I am very pleased with the sound quality of the Bose system. Of course, there are sometimes some technical problems with it, but this can be said for most equipment.
I don't know what's wrong with you, but it's weird that the hardware in working order sounds as bad as you say. Well, unless you have something damaged.

Hey KrisNext, it's cool that you took the time to share your knowledge with others. Thanks to what I found your post. You wrote earlier that you tried to connect and run the amplifier on the table. I have a set of speakers from Mazda 6 gh and this amplifier, but I would like to make home speakers and connect the subwoofer separately (also from Mazda). I am not an electronics engineer but a DIY enthusiast, but I know some basics. Can I ask you to prepare a diagram of how to run such a set on the table, and specifically how to control the power of the amplifier with a potentiometer or with a remote control?

As far as I know, there is probably a newer (I don't know if it's better) version of this amplifier with the symbol GJE8 66 920, which can be purchased for PLN 100 on the Allegro. I think it has the same sockets.

Hello. I sat down to such a damaged amplifier. I checked the voltages according to the instructions and I have nothing fluctuating, the values are correct. The ends of the power heats up instantly so that you burn your fingers. What else can I check without an oscilloscope?

I confirm the hopelessness of the Bose sound, today I throw out the radio with an amplifier, a subwoofer and a center front speaker! If for most people the sound output through the speakers is sufficient, then their business. However, if someone has higher expectations and a sensitive ear, I am not surprised, it was enough for me to place the Bumboox JBL in the back seat and recreate the sound from 2 sources via BT and compare. I know there will be criticism, but I require a minimum of quality, not an endorsement
I ordered a super proven radio with really great parameters and bajerami, I installed it and the guitar plays DDDD

Hi . I took amplifier GS1E 66 920A out of car becouse I wanted to put new cooling paste on chips and resolder problemable parts to prevent silent or machinegun sound. While I put the amplifier back to car, no sound comes from speakers. I measured all important power points on PCB (including stabilizers) and everything is ok: 12V, 12V Enable, 3.3V and 1.25V. Remote pin (AMP CON) from radio to activate amplifier have only 10,5V, but I suppose it is not a problem becouse 12V Enable pin on 5V stabiliser turns it on. End chips for speakers heat usually. No shorts on soldered parts. Cooling paste is unleaded. I suspect CS42438 chip, but there is no power output to check. Only audio outputs. I don't have osciliscope, only TRMS multimeter.

Do you have any ideas guys? There is picture of my PCB. That mess on board is rest of clear-coat after cleaning for better parts visibility.

Update: i did bypass from input pins directly to end level chips, still silent. Its warm but muted. Solving this problem could be activating this chips. Does somebody have datasheet of Bose chips?

Check DK topic

https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/660139-Mazda-6-Bose-amp-fault

hello, I resume the post, after a lot of research I landed on this page. I am writing from Italy and this amplifier is factory installed on several Alfa Romeo models. what they brought me for repair is mounted on an alfa romeo Mito, a small sedan with a sporty character built on the basis of the Fiat Grande Punto but also on the Giulietta model, I hope this post will be of help to the many owners of this amp ( signed 955 -50508505) which breaks down after several crackles and discharges. In addition, the replacement costs a lot and at least in Italy there is no documentation about it. this "boooster" (it is not a classic amplifier because it uses the high level outputs of the radio) the connector and the pinout are identical to those of the mazda and also the internal circuit. I did a bench test and in the measurement points downstream of the l05-s300 regulator I have only 3.3v instead of 1.25v. the dsp becomes very hot like ncv8141 and absorption is high over 1A (maximum value chosen by me). I guess it could absorb more. do you think it could be the dsp in short? I tried to unsolder it and tested the tensions again. I ordered a kit on aliexpress with all 4 affected components. thanks

Hi, do you know if the Mazda amp gets line level or speaker level audio from head unit? I just can't find definitive info anywhere. It all looks to me to be speaker level, but I'm not sure.

amplifier input is at a high level, there are no shielded wires in the wiring.

KrisNext, tell me how did you decode that this pin is TDA8595? I`m looking for information on the Internet and I can`t find anything because the bones say something completely different.

My copy is BOSE GER466A20, the AT24C256 eprom memory input is available on the electrode. Maybe someone will find it useful...

Hey Neo_84 can you copy this batch to bose AT24C256 ?

@revolt2 Link

Thread revival on this if thats OK. I had the same problem with my AMP. I replaced the DSP chip and that seems to have fixed the problem for a few weeks. It just started with the same symptoms again so I replaced the CS4 chip. I now get audio from the front left and rear right speakers only. Is there any specific component that would cause this problem? I have checked all the wiring going to the head unit and everything seems OK. I bought 3 chips the only one I havnt replaced is the ST2 chip. Thanks