Connection of a three-phase meter.

Hello, I want to mount the counter for strength and 230. I wanted to install the older ones because they are relatively cheap. Now the question is, do I have to set up two meters, or is there an option to connect to one (I emphasize that I want to teach the old type of meter)

For "strength" and for 230V - if it is one recipient, one three-phase meter is enough.

But I have never had one in my hands and how many inputs are there 8, 4 inputs and 4 outputs in such a meter and how to connect 230 more to this, connect a separate 230 cable to one phase and the other to ground or what?

Outsource this job to a professional because I don't see it.

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2571981.html
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2616062.html
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic622654.html

What are you writing, in the garage I did the installation with 1 and 3-phase two lamps 3 sockets for 1 phase two for 3 phases and also for one and thick fuses, you just want to find out and not cut off because no kidding.

I gave you topics where colleagues solve the topic of connecting three-phase and single-phase meters. You still haven't specified what your installation should look like. Is there one or two "recipients"? Should this one have a three-phase meter and the other a single-phase one?

kojak2464 wrote:

Hello, I want to mount the counter for strength and 230. I wanted to install the older ones because they are relatively cheap. Now the question is, do I have to set up two meters, or is there an option to connect to one (I emphasize that I want to teach the old type of meter)

It is difficult to deduce anything from this statement. The three-phase current meter measures the current consumption in a star-delta configuration, ie it measures "strength" and 230V simultaneously.

One receiver, one 3-phase cable goes short, the other goes, 1 phase is together for the meter, later for 3-phase fuses and one phase that I already have and are working. Thanks for the links, I have seen one so far and there is a switchboard diagram, but they did not understand a bit because there were a lot of things. Maybe some diagram would be useful and it would be hard

Please.

I am bound by the tn-c chart, i.e. the top two. There are two, one for 3 phases and the other for one and it connects in one meter? Got it right?

Added after 39 [minutes]:

I have a 3-phase lcd counter here and where to connect 1 phase

Added after 1 [minutes]:



Added after 14 [minutes]:

Or one more thing

These are three-phase meters, not single-phase meters. You won't connect one phase here.

What does the meter need to connect both?

One single-phase and one three-phase meter.
At your whim, you are making a mistake. You bring three phases to the sub-meter, you bring out three phases, make a separate box, three fuses and distribute one phase that you already have connected to the recipient. The phase voltage between phases L1 L2 L3 is 400V, while the phase voltage between phases L1-N L2-N L3-N is 230V.

But you shouldn't take one phase out of three phases, because you overload it even though I gave the cable in a 4x4 garage. From what I watched today, the clown counter is of the type of the second photo and somehow everything is normally focused on the whole house and the hall. So, to sum up, I connect the power cable to the meter input, output and output, additionally the L1 and N cables, which will serve as 230, understand it well?

I repeat outsourcing this work to a professional. The fact that you did something yourself does not entitle you to continue playing with the flow. And if you wanted to connect this one phase, what for? She wouldn't be charged?

It doesn't matter if you load only one phase and not the others. Even in a house with several circuits, you never have a symmetrical load. You calculate the short-circuit current, use the appropriate cross-section of the wires for the load and appropriate overcurrent protection or a fuse.

If the recipient is to have one phase, install a single-phase current meter on the wires that supply electricity to him, for example:

http://orno-sklep.pl/1-fazowy-licznik-zuzycia...rycznej-50a-legalizacja-mid-dds353-p-158.html

and put an appropriate fuse or circuit breaker on it.

If you want to deliver three-phase current to your customers, then lead these three phases to e.g. a meter like this:

https://hurtownia.elektromag.pl/licznik-energ...rycznej-3-fazowy-lcd-3x20-120,56,43022,100092

make the meter separate with appropriate fuses and you can distribute the current from one, two or three phases.

All this fuss with electricity is for me, in the garage a lot of rummaging with electro tools. There is one meter for 4 families in the building and only I am digging and drawing electricity for the rest of the family. I assume the meter for myself will pay as much as I used.
There is a 230 installation in the garage and then I applied the force, but I will do as you write, I will connect the force to the meter and bring out the 230 cables for the fuses and the cables for the fuses forcibly. As I was talking to my friend and he told me that he factored the replacement of the bulb for PLN 60, despite the fact that I will do it myself, I will pay a fortune even for the connection itself.

Hello, I would like to connect to the topic. The situation is very similar to that of a friend in the garage. It is also about the sub-meter.

One question is a bit more precise.

1. Is there any dependence in the sequence of connecting phases L1 L2 L3 to the meter?
2. If they are connected in a different order, will it have an impact on the measurement of power consumption?
3. How can you recognize the phase sequence? (excluding cable colors)

Please reply,

lukasz_ziel wrote:

Hello, I would like to connect to the topic.

For what? Before asking a question, check if others have not done so before.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2102484.html

I checked, the search will not always lead to the topic I am looking for. The indicated topic does not give a clear answer, but after analyzing it, I assumed that the phase sequence when connecting the meter does not matter. I installed an electronic meter which, according to the topic in the link, should inform me when it is connected incorrectly. The meter does not communicate anything, so I assume that it is ok.

I would like to add that I continued an old topic started by someone, and I did not start a new one. What does it mean that I am browsing the forum and not mindlessly letting someone answer me .... That's it when it comes to answering the question "Why?"

Now I am doing an inquiry. I assembled the counter as in the photos.


What are pins 2 for; 20; 21; 13; 15;

2 is bridged from 1, I don't see any use for it, but maybe something was written about it in the manual from the counter. Maybe a lamp to illuminate the meter when reading?

You can connect a pulse meter to 20 and 21 - from the marking I conclude that there is optoisolation there, so the meter input must have its own power supply, '+' to 20, '-' to 21, and it will not get any voltage - only connecting / disconnecting; it could be connected, for example, to a computer port (only which? not USB; printer port can be, but what computer has it now? serial has + -12V voltage, and there can be only one character; some Raspberry Pi or Arduino input can be connected there, it must have its own pull-up) so that the computer counts the pulses and has an independent counting (the conversion of energy into pulses will be the same), there are probably the same pulses that control the LED blinking.

13 and 15 looks like the ends of the relay coil - but I do not know what it should connect, you would have to look in the manual. But ... I don't see them in the picture. Maybe they are in a place that is only accessible after removing the seals and are used, for example, to reset the error signal?