Renault Clio II ph 2 - Does not react to turning the key in the ignition

Hello, in my Clio II 2001, 75HP 16V petrol for several days is a problem. After turning the key in the ignition switch to the position in which it is to spin
the starter is silent, only the characteristic "tick" is heard, nothing happens, only the control lamps glow as if nothing has happened. The car still fired without a problem with the last frosts of -20 degrees. This is a strange thing, because after another turning of the key will even turn, but it will not start, and the next is ignition and everything is ok, later on the next attempts the problem does not occur, usually at the beginning (before going to work, or at returning home), this is a lottery. The battery is operational, after these frosts it was charged. In the summer, the starter was cleaned by me, one brush was in average condition. Where to look for a problem? Ignition switch? The cables are rusty? Starter? Thank you in advance for your help.

Brushes in the starter for replacement.

Thanks. I thought so. Generally, I would do it myself without a workshop, but I can not find it anywhere to buy it. Any online store?

Added after 5 [hours] 15 [minutes]:

and is anyone able to tell me what the starter is like? what number, model? so to choose brushes, brush holder? or to buy a new one?

zbyszek100 wrote:

you hear only the characteristic "ticking"

And this is the ticking in the starter or in the fuse box under the board ???

You can hear it very clearly, like a sound from the direction indicators. It seems to me that the sound comes from fuses

To top it all, there is now an electric fault indicator, a spiral symbol. P0790 error and cuts off the power of the engine, as the blown auto power returns.

zbyszek100 wrote:

You can hear it very clearly, like a sound from the direction indicators. It seems to me that the sound comes from fuses

zbyszek100 wrote:

After turning the key in the ignition switch to the position in which it is to spin
the starter is silent, only the characteristic "tick" is heard, nothing happens, only the control lamps glow as if nothing

zbyszek100 wrote:

after another turning of the key, it will even turn, but it will not start, and the next one is ignition and everything is ok

I bet on the problem with immo or the UCH itself. In these cars the starter is controlled by the UCH. If there is no permission to start, eg problem with immo, it will not allow the starter to work, or allow for a few seconds and it will turn it off
What is the P0790 error?

genek1000 wrote:

What is the P0790 error?

This error number reads from this electrical fault (spiral) after connecting to the cable (amateur interface).
P0790 - Operation switch - normal / performance - fault

Today, an error also appeared:
P0120 - Throttle / pedal position sensor / switch A - malfunction

This applies to the lack of power in the pedal. He does not respond to pressure. Sometimes it is enough to press and squeeze and the power returns, and sometimes only helps to burn the engine completely. I do not know if all this has something to do with the fault with the starter? is this something new.

Connect with your ears and see in the parameters if the controller unlocked ??

Bunny82 wrote:

Connect with your ears and see in the parameters if the controller unlocked ??

I understand that I need a specific program to do it, maybe ddt2000? I use a simple smartphone app.

I've had it before, but in the summer. I thoroughly cleaned the relays and fuses under the hood and there was peace of mind ... until now; / only then there was no problem with ignition by the key.

sorry that so late but the flu takes the top, check the main high current fuses they are probably hidden on the podocziu or przyuu. I once had the engine did not want to run enough that I moved this box and the fuses spilled out of this box (whole current paths crushed.

Recovery.

The mistake was repeated again, the frosts came, so it has something to do with it. As there were positive temperatures, the starter worked, but there was a spiral - LED and cut off to minimum.

Added after 2 [hours] 35 [minutes]:

Bunny82 wrote:

(whole current paths crushed.

if that's the case, I've already cleaned it exactly as much as it allowed me to use a contact spray.

Added after 5 [hours] 10 [minutes]:

I will add that I have since the time I pulled out the battery for charging, what were those frosts - 20. Since then, I have these electrical faults. Maybe something decoded, or something similar? Klems are well screwed up. Can it have something to do?

Now when I came back from work, the first time I did not react at all to turning, but I kept him in this position and I noticed that the diode immo is flashing twice faster than if the key was not there at all, the second time it was spinning (the diode then lights up uniformly). Maybe it will help in the diagnosis?

I managed to record it:

At the beginning, the immo flashes faster and you only hear the ticking

https://youtu.be/Wveky9TjF4k

Later he spins

Check what is happening on the second key.

Unfortunately, the lack of a second.

I pulled out the batteries from the key and the situation is the same as on the video, i.e. the Immo and ticks flash quickly, but no longer turns, even after the second, or X together without a battery. After putting it back, the battery turns and fires. I replaced the battery with a new one.

Check the 21W warning light or there is a current to the solenoid. It is good to rinse the main masses or not, especially those under the box in the engine compartment, the mass of the engine.

zbyszek100 wrote:

At the beginning, the immo flashes faster and you only hear the ticking

https://youtu.be/Wveky9TjF4k

Later he spins

Immo can not "get along" with the key. But since you have only one key, I leave it to You to decide for myself! Because in a similar situation, I refined all the soldering points in the key the most (a bit of fresh tin with a rosin / flux).
and really more carefully around the coil
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2669663.html

If, after the above, there is no improvement, then the antenna / ignition switch ring to be checked.

The best thing is that when this problem occurs and I can not run x times, inserting the obd2 interface into the port helps and immediately fires. Maybe it will help?

as immo blinks, it does not shine all the time,
as it shines constantly it shines but does not fire.

I had it again today. Can the battery age influence that, weaker?
I'm probably going to cut some electrician. Do you know the approximate costs of this "operation"?