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Peugeot partner 2004 2.0 HDi - Venting the refrigeration system

tom.tych 17166 16
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Where are the coolant bleed points on a 2004 Peugeot Partner 2.0 HDi, and should I bleed the system cold or warm?

The bleed points are on the thermostat housing above the gearbox and on the bulkhead/firewall side near the wires to the central unit; on this car they can be plastic caps, blue or black [#16235679][#16235856] Fill the expansion tank to MAX, then bleed it with the engine warm and the thermostat open, because the cooling system works under pressure [#16235856][#16240356] Keep the cap closed during warm-up; one reply says the HDi is best brought up to temperature under load rather than idling, for example a few kilometers in 4th gear at about 3500–4000 rpm [#16240356] After the fan cycles 2–3 times, let the engine cool and recheck the level cold, topping up if needed [#16240062] If the hoses stay hard or the level keeps changing, a CO2 test was suggested to rule out combustion gases in the coolant [#16237464][#16235897]
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  • #1 16235655
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    Hello.
    I had a problem with the refrigeration system thermostat. After the exchange, adding the fluid for a week, everything worked normally. I had to mount one of the hoses wrongly on the expansion tank (with a plastic lock on the lamp side) because it detached and spat out the liquid. I put on the hose, added liquid, since then I have to unscrew the cap from the expansion tank because the air plug accumulates.
    And now the question:
    Where are the points for venting the system located?
    Is it better to bleed if the engine is 80 * C or when it is cold?
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  • #2 16235679
    yezz
    Level 13  
    Posts: 165
    Help: 7
    Rate: 117
    From what I associate, one vent is located on the thermostat housing, look for it above the gearbox (unless you need to remove the air filter tube) and the other look in the middle of the bulkhead wall on the wires going to the central unit.
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  • #4 16235856
    pepe150
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2721
    Help: 288
    Rate: 935
    It can be blue, tip like a cover for a valve.
    It must be warmed up so that there is pressure in the system.
    When the thermostat opens, bleed it, just watch the fluid level.
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  • #5 16235897
    wielecki
    Level 21  
    Posts: 558
    Help: 34
    Rate: 320
    You'd better take a test for CO2 in your system ...
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  • #6 16235908
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    Hehe I unscrewed the cap. There is actually a second black. I put a screwdriver about 4 cm and I didn't feel anything there. What screwdriver? Is the hex key?

    Added after 15 [minutes]:

    Do you have any practical test?
  • #8 16236666
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    Is it possible that for me there are no venting screws, the only thing is these plastic nuts? Because after unscrewing the blue or black cap, air flowed out then liquid. The thermostat opened a few times and I vented too. I am surprised only that the whole system is secured with plastic
  • #9 16236788
    pepe150
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2721
    Help: 288
    Rate: 935
    The connection of the hoses to the heater is also plastic. Water pump impellers also make plastic.
    The tank is also plastic ....
  • #10 16237464
    yezz
    Level 13  
    Posts: 165
    Help: 7
    Rate: 117
    Check if the water hoses do not get hard, if they are hard, it may mean that the compression gets into the fluid.
  • #11 16238559
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    I will download the CO2 test. Today I covered a 140km stretch where I vented 70km. This cork at the cabin once I unscrewed it spurted liquid, the one at the thermostat and the compensating cork does the trick. I have the impression that when a large circuit opens, it will begin to "air". Two large diameter hoses are hard. After venting, they are soft.
  • #12 16239045
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #13 16239647
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    That's about this level. It will flood to MAX, I will travel for some time and the level in the tank is at the min or below. I unscrew the cork, let out "air" and part comes back. When the engine is warmed up, i.e. the thermostat begins to work, carefully unscrewing the cap to bleed it and the fluid in the tank is just under the cap ... The fluid does not decrease 100%. The engine does not overheat and there is no under heating problem. Only this level of fluid ...
  • #14 16240062
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #15 16240303
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    At what temperature should the fan turn on? I have tried to catch the moment when it is switched on and failed.
    Heat it with a screw cap or closed?
  • #16 16240356
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 16240535
    tom.tych
    Level 11  
    Posts: 323
    Rate: 64
    So I had a good impression that the fan almost does not turn on at all.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around venting the refrigeration system of a 2004 Peugeot Partner 2.0 HDi after issues with the thermostat and fluid leaks. Users identify venting points, including one on the thermostat housing and another near the bulkhead. It is advised to bleed the system when the engine is warm to ensure pressure builds up, allowing for effective venting. Concerns about the plastic components of the system and potential CO2 contamination are raised, with suggestions to monitor fluid levels and check for leaks. The importance of maintaining proper fluid levels and ensuring the system is under pressure is emphasized.
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