Astra F 1.7TD Isuzu - Not charging, charging indicator light on

Hello. I have a charging problem with my Astra. On Saturday I put the car down, on Monday my mother tried to start it, he didn't even mumble. I thought that something just discharged it and my mother tried to start the car with the cables, despite half an hour of fighting it failed. I took out the battery and charged it, put it in the car and fired it, but the charging does not show only as much as the battery has and the charging indicator and the exclamation mark light are on (no, this is not a manual indicator, there is a P indicator from the manual), it also does not work tachometer.
Is it possible that the alternator has burnt or just a relay somewhere, a fuse that activates the alternator?

I have a 4-pin cube alternator installed, but I also have a fully functional 2-pin alternator, but I do not know how to connect it more accurately, will someone suggest something more?

The alternator doesn't have to burn out right away, maybe the voltage regulator has fallen, or the brushes just run out, or there might be a broken one-way pulley clutch.

Better make your old alternator, because if I remember correctly, it still has a vacuum pump on it.

kot mirmur wrote:

The alternator doesn't have to burn out right away, maybe the voltage regulator has fallen, or the brushes just run out, or there might be a broken one-way pulley clutch.

I know that not immediately, I know a little about mechanics The brushes would not end immediately, and if the regulator fell, there would be any charging and there is no 1V, but it all started to happen after trying to fire from the cables. Broken pulley one-way clutch or something to be exact?

zubereq wrote:

Better make your old alternator, because if I remember correctly, it still has a vacuum pump on it.

Yes, there is a pump, but the second alternator I have is from the same engine, but with the Vectra B 97r it only differs in the cube, the rest is the same or you can possibly switch the rotor just a matter of connection.

In the 4-pin, you probably have markings
L- indicator
W- tachometer
S- + battery
IG - ignition
you probably have two pins
L-indicator
W-tachometer

Go ahead and try it yourself. As if you had problems in the network, there are connection cubes with the description of the connectors.

zubereq wrote:

In the 4-pin, you probably have markings
L- indicator
W- tachometer
S- + battery
IG - ignition
you probably have two pins
L-indicator
W-tachometer

Go ahead and try it yourself. As if you had problems in the network, there are connection cubes with the description of the connectors.

Well, that's it and I know it. Only what and why these S and IG cables? Do they need to be connected?

This clutch is usually mounted in the alternator pulley. It works in the same way as the so-called torpedo in old assemblies [it is about bicycles]. Specifically - you turn e.g. clockwise, the clutch grabs and turns the rotor, spinning but impeller not.

I'll check it tomorrow but I doubt it's it.

There you have a Hitachi alternator very emergency. The bridges 100A burn most often, sometimes also voltage regulators.

kmitki wrote:

There you have a Hitachi alternator very emergency. The bridges 100A burn most often, sometimes also voltage regulators.

Exactly as you're saying. I have a car for 5 years and the second time I will be repairing something related to charging: / I have already installed a voltmeter in the car to know when it will fall and I put the engine cover so that the water on the alternator does not fly

Today I set up a second aternator, but the charging is only 13.5V, is it possible that the charging is so low due to the fact that in both alternators the wheels on which the belt is running are of different sizes?

At what engine revolutions was the measurement taken?

At each and the maximum it showed just 13.5V. And at idle 13V.

A little too little, pass. 13.8 should be. LEDs or voltage regulator to be replaced. Alternator not getting hot?

Alternator to be repaired, indicator relay to be replaced and elimination of harmful candles heating. You can start at the end of the list. And these altars don't have a backstop.

If the measurement was on a cold engine, everything is ok because the engine is reheated and therefore such a decrease. And if it's warm, it's a damaged alternator.

kot mirmur wrote:

A little too little, pass. 13.8 should be. LEDs or voltage regulator to be replaced. Alternator not getting hot?

The alternator is regenerated. It wasn't getting hot or even warm.

andrzej20001 wrote:

Alternator to be repaired, indicator relay to be replaced and elimination of harmful candles heating. You can start at the end of the list. And these altars don't have a backstop.

The alternator is regenerated. The relay is bypassed, otherwise it would not be possible to connect this alternator, it has 2 pins and not like my old 4, so it has no effect on it. The candle heating system works properly.

kmitki wrote:

If the measurement was on a cold engine, everything is ok because the engine is reheated and therefore such a decrease. And if it's warm, it's a damaged alternator.

The alternator is regenerated. The measurement was made on a cold engine, but it has nothing to do with it, because I have the candle heating system only works when I let it, because I have a separate switch to save electricity, I run it only at lower temperatures, i.e. if I have the heating indicator light goes out, the heating operation also ends.

Oh, and one more thing to everyone, before you give any advice, read the whole topic, because you give questions that I have already answered earlier and you do not know the situation what I have done in the car and what I have already checked

| Well, if the belt has no slip, the alternator needs to be corrected. Also check the + and - voltage directly on the alternator.

Problem solved As I said, I moved the pulleys between the alternators and the charging on the alternator is 14.45V on the 14.4V battery at idle without load, after load (turning on the lights, vents and 14.2V radio). you can connect an alternator with a different plug (2 pins) to the car in which the alternator plug is 4 pins