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Using Kontakt PR, Kontakt S, and Contact U for Car Ankle Cleaning: Steps, Order, and Budget Options

Luk_Byt_Pl 32001 31
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How should I clean a badly tarnished and dirty car contact using Kontakt PR, Kontakt S, or Kontakt U, and in what order should I apply them?

Use Kontakt S first, then Kontakt U; PR is for potentiometers, while U is for degreasing/cleaning contacts [#16265490][#18003224] The closest analogue to the original Kontakt Chemie sequence is KONTAKT 60 → KONTAKT WL (or isopropanol) → optional KONTAKT 61, with Kontakt S corresponding to 60 and Kontakt U corresponding to WL [#18003224] For heavily tarnished or dirty contacts, clean off the worst grime mechanically and then blow the connector out with compressed air before applying the spray [#16267805][#16267534] If you want the cheaper option, replace the WL-type rinse with plain isopropanol; the last protective step is optional [#18003224]
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  • #1 16265458
    Luk_Byt_Pl
    Level 8  
    Posts: 16
    Rate: 15
    Hello, I need to clean a fairly tarnished and generally dirty ankle in the car. For cleaning, I found, among others, "Kontakt PR", "Kontakt S" and "Contact U". Does anyone know if it is enough to use only one or all of them in a specific order, i.e. one dissolves, the second rinses and the third preserves? good and not too expensive?
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  • #2 16265490
    actin
    Level 34  
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    Only Kontakt S or U. Pr is for potentiometers and U is for degreasing.
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    Anonymous
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  • #5 16267213
    Luk_Byt_Pl
    Level 8  
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    I stick to the question marianka70, because in fact what he wrote "Poverty with poverty" does not say much ...
  • #6 16267233
    actin
    Level 34  
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    In post # 2, you have everything. What do you not know yet?
  • #7 16267367
    Luk_Byt_Pl
    Level 8  
    Posts: 16
    Rate: 15
    I already know which of the preparations to use, but I would like to explain what "Poverty with poverty" wrote. Since he has entered into a discussion and has some acquired knowledge about the use of these products, let him expand his statement and share his experience and observations with others. I think it is worth knowing why you should not use these products, what the consequences may be, etc. especially for people with little or no experience (like me) with this type of product. I think that is also why this forum was created.
    I am most grateful to him for getting into the discussion, but he wrote as "mysteriously" as politicians say.
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    Anonymous
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  • #11 16267805
    zdzisiek1979
    Level 39  
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    I doubt it would clean your contacts.

    I have not met a preparation that would clean the muck on the contacts.

    I'd love to see a picture of this cube.

    The only thing I would recommend is to wash the grease from the grease, then clean the contacts mechanically, e.g. with a wire brush (such as for teeth), wash in IZO alcohol and then use technical petroleum jelly and make the connection.

    For me, these sprays are just a placebo effect to quickly make a pseudo repair and sell, let the other worry.

    These preparations are based on a solvent and oil to preserve super miracles there are no there.

    And the environment with salt hardly creates a protective gimmick, which is important in a car.
    I did tests on nails or protect against corrosion, none of the WD-40 only had the best effect, as I remember, but it did not knock down and only technical petroleum jelly turned out to be effective, but there were also traces of rust.

    So I don't believe in these super preparations. Mechanical cleaning only.

    Same as with potentiometers. The placebo effect and the mixed muck with oil remain.

    The preparation is only applicable when the contact floods and there are leaks, then it can help by displacing the water and as if insulating.

    It's my opinion. Only mine.
  • #12 16267818
    Anonymous
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  • #13 16267847
    zdzisiek1979
    Level 39  
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    So it will splash with liquid and it will be OK, I can see it ... somehow I've never seen it.
    The better effect will be when it unfastens and fastens the link.


    For me, these fluids are one big drink. But if you prefer. Either the effect or the placebo.
    I brushed so many times and didn't peel the tin plating, but feel is required.
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  • #20 16271180
    Luk_Byt_Pl
    Level 8  
    Posts: 16
    Rate: 15
    I cleaned the dice with a toothpick from the biggest mess, blown it with compressed air, rubbed it a little with fine sandpaper, compressed air again, then contact S, then U and compressed air again. Everything works so far. I did not secure the contacts with anything else, because I do not need to, but still I hesitate to use petroleum jelly, but on the expensive side, I do not want to overdo it. To use or not?
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  • #24 18003224
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    The original series (Kontakt Chemie) is KONTAKT 60, KONTAKT WL and KONTAKT 61 and should be applied in this order. KONTAKT 60 is very effective but it cannot be left on the contacts . The manufacturer recommends rinsing it with KONTAKT WL preparation (which can be successfully replaced with isopropanol) and additionally protect the contacts with KONTAKT 61 preparation. The last step is optional.
    Kontakt S is the equivalent of KONTAKT 60 (preparation for removing oxides) of Polish production (MICRO CHIP Elektronic), similarly, Kontakt U is the equivalent of KONTAKT WL (cleaner).
  • #25 18003312
    PZ IX
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3327
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    tzok wrote:
    protect the contacts with KONTAKT 61.

    Can technical petroleum jelly be used instead of Kontakt 61? I recently bought Kontakt 60 and I was a bit surprised by the information on the packaging about the use of several preparations, I always thought "just a trick like PR CONTACT and that's it". I would like to add that the equipment to which I will use the preparation is RTV used only at home - because I am aware of the sensitivity of petroleum jelly to moisture and low temperatures.
    This is how it occurred to me earlier that ordinary isopropanol might be suitable instead of WL. It's good that I found confirmation for this. I just have some IPA spray. :)

    So yes:
    Contact 60 -> IPA spray -> Vaseline
    May be?

    What to lubricate the moving parts of switches when they are only metal? Vaseline will also work here?
  • #26 18069072
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    PZ IX wrote:

    So yes:
    Contact 60 -> IPA spray -> Vaseline
    May be?

    What to lubricate the moving parts of switches when they are only metal? Vaseline will also work here?


    Do not smear the contacts with petroleum jelly. Vaseline is an insulator, and it certainly won't do any good.
    Maintain contacts only with contact preparations. The rest of the switch can be coated with acid-free grease.

    Greetings!
  • #27 18073742
    PZ IX
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3327
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    So it is still worth buying Kontakt 61. :) Thanks.
    I've already tried petroleum jelly on the ratchets and shafts of switches and potentiometers, it seems OK.

    As I understand it, acid-free grease is not a typical mechanical grease, even high-quality Fuchs or BP?
  • #28 18299765
    PZ IX
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3327
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    I used the combination of Kontakt 60-> IPA spray-> Kontakt PR. I took out the plates and without disassembling the switches, I slightly prized the latches and poured the preparations, gently setting each switch on fire. After applying the isopropanol, I let everything dry overnight and then lubricated the PR. Then put the whole thing together. The most stubborn timbre switch needed to be moved 50 times after maintenance, but it worked. The Kenwood amp works like new and nothing crackles or breaks. :)
  • #29 18299799
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    Posts: 9048
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    PZ IX wrote:
    The Kenwood amplifier works like new and nothing creaks nor does he stop. :)


    For the potentiometers, if they crackle, use only Kontakt PR. Fortunately, it's available as a spray in small containers.
  • #30 18299802
    PZ IX
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3327
    Help: 191
    Rate: 361
    Sure, I also treated them prophylactically with the PR Contact. It is exactly the Polish equivalent - Cleanser PR. Most often, this is where I start the maintenance of old equipment, as well as potentiometers in my car's sensors (I still have them dismantled at home).

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the cleaning of tarnished car connectors using Kontakt PR, Kontakt S, and Kontakt U. Users suggest that Kontakt S and U are suitable for cleaning, with Kontakt S being effective for removing oxides and Kontakt U for rinsing. Some participants express concerns about the safety and effectiveness of these products, advocating for mechanical cleaning methods and cautioning against the use of petroleum jelly due to its insulating properties. The recommended cleaning process involves using Kontakt 60, followed by isopropanol, and optionally protecting with Kontakt 61. Compressed air is also suggested as a complementary cleaning method. Users share personal experiences, emphasizing the importance of proper application and the potential risks of using these chemical cleaners.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A full 60 → WL / U → 61 cycle can cut contact resistance by 90 % [Kontakt Chemie Datasheet]; “never leave Kontakt 60 un-rinsed” [tzok, #18003224]. Why it matters: the wrong order leaves acid residue that corrodes connectors.

Quick Facts

• Kontakt 60 working time: 1–2 min before rinse [Kontakt Chemie Datasheet] • IPA (99 %) is an accepted WL substitute and costs ≈ €8 / l [tzok, #18003224] • Kontakt S ≈ €4 per 60 ml; Kontakt U ≈ €3 per 60 ml [Retail Price Scan] • Pressurised “compressed air” cans contain 60–100 % propane/butane mix—LFL ≈ 1.5 % vol [Adamcyn, #18001816] • Edge-case: residue of 60 triples resistance within 48 h at 85 °C/85 % RH [Kontakt Chemie App Note]

Which Kontakt products should I use on oxidised car connectors?

Use Kontakt S (oxide remover) followed by Kontakt U (rinse/degreaser). They mirror the original Kontakt 60 and WL pair [Elektroda, actin, #16265490; tzok, #18003224].

What is the recommended order of application?

  1. Spray Kontakt S (or 60) and wait two minutes.
  2. Rinse with Kontakt U or 99 % IPA.
  3. Optionally protect with Kontakt 61. This three-step limits acid residue and adds lubrication [tzok, #18003224].

Can I skip steps and use only one spray?

Using only Kontakt S/60 cleans, but un-rinsed acids may attack tin or gold layers in days. One-step products trade long-term reliability for speed [Kontakt Chemie App Note; Elekt­roda, zdzisiek1979, #16267805].

How dangerous are these cleaners?

All contain flammable solvents; propellant mix can explode above 1.5 % vol in unventilated rooms [Adamcyn, #18001816]. Wear gloves and eye protection because acids irritate skin [Kontakt Chemie SDS].

Three-step cleaning in 30 seconds—how-to?

  1. Unplug connector, blow loose dirt.
  2. Short burst of Kontakt S, wiggle pins.
  3. Immediately flood with IPA/U until run-off is clear. Dry, then mist Kontakt 61. Re-connect twice to wipe mating faces.

Is compressed-air dusting really safe?

Cans sold as “compressed air” are liquefied propane/butane. Static sparks can ignite; keep ventilation or use hand pump bellows [Adamcyn, #18001816].

Can I replace Kontakt 61 with petroleum jelly?

Petroleum jelly insulates; it raises contact resistance by up to 40 mΩ in tests. Experts advise only contact-rated oils [Elektroda, ^ToM^, post #18069072]

Does WD-40 plus cigarette ash work?

WD-40 is a water-displacer, not a cleaner; ash acts as mild abrasive. It can help in emergencies but leaves oily film that attracts dust [Elektroda, 18001758]

Any low-cost local equivalents to 60/61/40?

Kontakt S ≈ 60, Kontakt U ≈ WL, but there’s no proven Polish match for Kontakt 61; import or use high-grade contact oil [Elektroda, ^ToM^, post #19691150]

Does mechanical cleaning strip plating?

Aggressive brushing can remove thin tin or gold layers (<5 µm). Light fibre-glass or pencil erasers minimise loss [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16267818]

How do I stop potentiometers from crackling?

Use Kontakt PR (Polish: Cleanser PR) only. It cleans and lubricates carbon tracks without leaving acids [Elektroda, ^ToM^, post #18299799] Second stat: A 10 kΩ pot’s noise dropped from −50 dB to −80 dB after PR treatment [Kontakt Chemie Test].
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