Using Kontakt PR, Kontakt S, and Contact U for Car Ankle Cleaning: Steps, Order, and Budget Options

Hello, I need to clean a fairly tarnished and generally dirty ankle in the car. For cleaning, I found, among others, "Kontakt PR", "Kontakt S" and "Contact U". Does anyone know if it is enough to use only one or all of them in a specific order, i.e. one dissolves, the second rinses and the third preserves? good and not too expensive?

Only Kontakt S or U. Pr is for potentiometers and U is for degreasing.

I stick to the question marianka70, because in fact what he wrote "Poverty with poverty" does not say much ...

In post # 2, you have everything. What do you not know yet?

I already know which of the preparations to use, but I would like to explain what "Poverty with poverty" wrote. Since he has entered into a discussion and has some acquired knowledge about the use of these products, let him expand his statement and share his experience and observations with others. I think it is worth knowing why you should not use these products, what the consequences may be, etc. especially for people with little or no experience (like me) with this type of product. I think that is also why this forum was created.
I am most grateful to him for getting into the discussion, but he wrote as "mysteriously" as politicians say.

actin wrote:

Only Contact S or U

Compressed air will be a good complement.

I doubt it would clean your contacts.

I have not met a preparation that would clean the muck on the contacts.

I'd love to see a picture of this cube.

The only thing I would recommend is to wash the grease from the grease, then clean the contacts mechanically, e.g. with a wire brush (such as for teeth), wash in IZO alcohol and then use technical petroleum jelly and make the connection.

For me, these sprays are just a placebo effect to quickly make a pseudo repair and sell, let the other worry.

These preparations are based on a solvent and oil to preserve super miracles there are no there.

And the environment with salt hardly creates a protective gimmick, which is important in a car.
I did tests on nails or protect against corrosion, none of the WD-40 only had the best effect, as I remember, but it did not knock down and only technical petroleum jelly turned out to be effective, but there were also traces of rust.

So I don't believe in these super preparations. Mechanical cleaning only.

Same as with potentiometers. The placebo effect and the mixed muck with oil remain.

The preparation is only applicable when the contact floods and there are leaks, then it can help by displacing the water and as if insulating.

It's my opinion. Only mine.

So it will splash with liquid and it will be OK, I can see it ... somehow I've never seen it.
The better effect will be when it unfastens and fastens the link.


For me, these fluids are one big drink. But if you prefer. Either the effect or the placebo.
I brushed so many times and didn't peel the tin plating, but feel is required.

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

So I don't believe in these super preparations. Mechanical cleaning only.
Same as with potentiometers. The placebo effect and the mixed muck with oil remain.

In the case of potentiometers and switches, I have had good and long-lasting results with the help of many years Contact 60 with compressed air.

I cleaned the dice with a toothpick from the biggest mess, blown it with compressed air, rubbed it a little with fine sandpaper, compressed air again, then contact S, then U and compressed air again. Everything works so far. I did not secure the contacts with anything else, because I do not need to, but still I hesitate to use petroleum jelly, but on the expensive side, I do not want to overdo it. To use or not?

kuferekczasu wrote:

is it "compressed gas" correctly?

Rightly.

In fact, "compressed air" is a mixture of flammable gases such as propane, butane or isobutane. Their release in a room with no ventilation or where the ventilation is not working properly may result in an explosion.

https://www.spidersweb.pl/2016/12/sprezone-powiekieta-wybuch.html

The original series (Kontakt Chemie) is KONTAKT 60, KONTAKT WL and KONTAKT 61 and should be applied in this order. KONTAKT 60 is very effective but it cannot be left on the contacts . The manufacturer recommends rinsing it with KONTAKT WL preparation (which can be successfully replaced with isopropanol) and additionally protect the contacts with KONTAKT 61 preparation. The last step is optional.
Kontakt S is the equivalent of KONTAKT 60 (preparation for removing oxides) of Polish production (MICRO CHIP Elektronic), similarly, Kontakt U is the equivalent of KONTAKT WL (cleaner).

tzok wrote:

protect the contacts with KONTAKT 61.

Can technical petroleum jelly be used instead of Kontakt 61? I recently bought Kontakt 60 and I was a bit surprised by the information on the packaging about the use of several preparations, I always thought "just a trick like PR CONTACT and that's it". I would like to add that the equipment to which I will use the preparation is RTV used only at home - because I am aware of the sensitivity of petroleum jelly to moisture and low temperatures.
This is how it occurred to me earlier that ordinary isopropanol might be suitable instead of WL. It's good that I found confirmation for this. I just have some IPA spray. :)

So yes:
Contact 60 -> IPA spray -> Vaseline
May be?

What to lubricate the moving parts of switches when they are only metal? Vaseline will also work here?

PZ IX wrote:

So yes:
Contact 60 -> IPA spray -> Vaseline
May be?

What to lubricate the moving parts of switches when they are only metal? Vaseline will also work here?

Do not smear the contacts with petroleum jelly. Vaseline is an insulator, and it certainly won't do any good.
Maintain contacts only with contact preparations. The rest of the switch can be coated with acid-free grease.

Greetings!

So it is still worth buying Kontakt 61. Thanks.
I've already tried petroleum jelly on the ratchets and shafts of switches and potentiometers, it seems OK.

As I understand it, acid-free grease is not a typical mechanical grease, even high-quality Fuchs or BP?

I used the combination of Kontakt 60-> IPA spray-> Kontakt PR. I took out the plates and without disassembling the switches, I slightly prized the latches and poured the preparations, gently setting each switch on fire. After applying the isopropanol, I let everything dry overnight and then lubricated the PR. Then put the whole thing together. The most stubborn timbre switch needed to be moved 50 times after maintenance, but it worked. The Kenwood amp works like new and nothing crackles or breaks.

PZ IX wrote:

The Kenwood amplifier works like new and nothing creaks nor does he stop.

For the potentiometers, if they crackle, use only Kontakt PR. Fortunately, it's available as a spray in small containers.

Sure, I also treated them prophylactically with the PR Contact. It is exactly the Polish equivalent - Cleanser PR. Most often, this is where I start the maintenance of old equipment, as well as potentiometers in my car's sensors (I still have them dismantled at home).