FMB 139 Engine: Barton Spark Issue, Replaced Head, Stator & Pulser, Uneven Performance, 0.40V Max

Hello.
I have a problem with Barton spark with FMB 139 engine.
After replacing the head, the spark disappeared. Checking everything in turn, I came to the conclusion that the voltage from the pulser did not come out. So I replaced the stator with the pulser. The spark appeared. The engine was going to be hard to start, when it grabbed it worked very unevenly. I switched it off and once again did not fire, again there is no spark. So I bought another stator with a pulser and the spark is still gone. And the power supply from the pulse generator is max 0.40v Is it probably too little? I also observed that when I touch another cable with good voltage to the pulse generator cable, the spark appears at this point. What can this be a fault? I have no strength and do not want to unnecessarily exchange a half motor. Help!

Check the distance between the pulse generator and the hump on the magnetic wheel. It cannot rub against this "performance". Recommended gap - distance about 0.3 mm (efficient pulser resistance about 140 ohms). Also examine the HV cable and the so-called candle pipe. For a test, you can check the spark without a pipe (jump about 8 mm).

I don't know. How to check this distance because when I remove the engine cover from the ignition side, the pulser and coils are screwed to it. However, the pulser is screwed on with 2 screws, which cannot be adjusted. Impulsator's resistance is correct, it's good. HV cable also. I also grabbed a candle and touched the engine and the current does not "kick". WHAT is responsible for the current that the magnet goes to the pulser? Is this one or all of the coils? I don't know how to examine it. I also don't know how to connect a multimeter to the coils to check their resistance. How to do it?

Buddy regarding the regulation of the distance between the pulser and the magnetic wheel, in my opinion there is a possibility of regulation, maybe to a small extent, but always something. Some use a razor thickness to check the distance. I do not understand - in your scooter the pulse generator is not attached to the half of the engine (crankcase), but to the cover of the "generator". The pulse generator should be attached near the magnetic wheel, ie to the vehicle's "mass", but it must not rub against it. Check that the circumference of the wheel has a small projection at some point and it should be as close as possible to the pulser. The cable coming out of it (usually blue / yellow) should be connected to the appropriate pin in the module, as well as the appropriate cables from the "generator". Check if you have the original module, try to get the right diagram for your vehicle and connect the "electrics" according to the diagram.

Exactly. It is not possible to check the gap between these elements. Unless I don't know something. These are pictures of how it looks. (I specially unscrewed one screw from the pulser to be able to gently zoom in and out). It doesn't do anything. You can also see through the screw holes in the pulser that it is not possible to adjust the distance from the magnet.


I checked the installation thoroughly and everything is fine. I also tried to connect the engine for "short" or bypassing the ignition, switches, etc. I only connected the module, HV coil and ground. There was still no spark. I repeat that the spark appears when I touch a cable with a voltage to the pulse generator cable (i.e. I do the pulse "manually". The pulse generator is checked and it is good. Could the magneto be damaged somehow? I still do not know how to test such coils, where to attach a multimeter? that the charging current is about 7v from both charging cables and from the power cable the CDI module comes out over 20v Even around 30v. These voltages were measured when turning the starter.

Hello, how do you measure tension? and what voltage do you connect instead of the pulser?

Hello. I measure the voltage with a DPM multimeter. The voltage I apply is either the ignition charging cable or the power supply for the ignition module. In both cases the spark appears.

Upload photo module is probably damaged. The pulse generator, as the name suggests, generates pulses and you can't measure it with this meter. In addition, by connecting such a high voltage instead of the pulse generator you will burn the module.

Check ground connections (module, cap with coils, pulser, HV ignition coil, engine housing). Must be good. Chinese cables even lose power (I won't mention connectors)

The photo shows that the pulser is mounted incorrectly (inversely), i.e. the pulser core is directed to the housing and should be directed to the magnet, do not adjust the pulser, there is no adjustment. Well, one more thing, I do not know what stator cover you have in these types there were 2 types of covers and basically 3. differ in the embedding-depth of the pulser depending on the height of the marker on the magnetic wheel. Measure the distance from the axis of the pulser core to the edge-face of the stator cover and compare with the distance of the marker and the face of crankcase, mainly it is that the pulse core coincides with marker on the wheel.

cezary 603 wrote:

The photo shows that you have the pulser installed incorrectly (inversely)

The pulsator is positioned well.

It is possible that you are right, but it is possible that it is mounted upside down, i.e. whether the pulse generator should not be mounted upside down, with a cable from below.

Note that the coils are deeply embedded.

Well, let the founder of the subject check it or more photo-data.

The attached photo shows that the pulser is tightened with only one screw, which suggests that you purchased the "power plant" component as used. I am also inclined to the earlier opinion that the pulser can be installed the other way around. In my opinion, it should be turned coil (with a magnet) to the outside of the magnetic wheel, maintaining a proper gap.

Your description shows that you have not read it.

Hello again. I apologize for such a long absence. For a moment I gave up fixing Barton. After some time I came back to him but with a new ignition module and it works. However, the module was to blame so such low voltage from the pulse generator is the norm. Barton works great. Thank you all for your help. best regards