Connecting a New Circuit to an Old Switchboard: Neutral Wire Location & Procedure

Hello,

I need to connect to the old switchboard which is in the picture a new circuit. Please tell me how to connect? I do not fully understand the principle of operation. The current is on the bottom left and on the top right. I would like to connect a new fuse, where is the neutral wire? Or connect the circuit directly to the existing fuse
I know that the whole installation is to be replaced, but it is only for renovation.

Please do not suggest using a wire connected to the fuse. In combination, one works and the current flows, in the other after screwing in, the current should flow, right?
1.jpg Download (4.43 MB) 2.jpg Download (4.15 MB)

Neutral Or rather zero is out of range.
This terminal is located under the board and to get to it it is necessary to unseal the meter, which I arbitrarily do not advise to do.

kkas12 wrote:

Neutral Or rather zero is out of range.
This terminal is located under the board and to get to it it is necessary to unseal the meter, which I arbitrarily do not advise to do.

"I advise against doing it arbitrarily" is associated with punishment? is it such a punishment for illegal abstraction 15 thousand?


So in this base under the counter is a cube and separates it into two circuits, and then they go to the wall in the can?

By the way, I will ask where to report a request for sealing the protection against the meter, because the fuse was blown and I replaced it with a new one. Should you call an energy emergency or somehow to Tauron?

czartek70 wrote:

So in this base under the counter is a cube and separates it into two circuits, and then they go to the wall in the can?

You can specify it this way, but the phase conductors of your circuits are plugged under protection.
And you should report an energy emergency. This involves a fee for resealing the security.

czartek70 wrote:

By the way, I will ask where to file my sealing request ...

Read here .

Pay attention to this paragraph

Quote:

All work on the electrical installation may only be carried out by qualified persons or electrical installation companies having appropriate qualifications authorizing them to perform them.

I have one more question and one request.

Question:
In that case, can I connect the following mini switchgears to the flush-mounted box near the meter?

Request
If there is a possibility, please look at two items and say if I understand correctly:

1. The fuse is on the phase wire. With photo 1, the current flows because the bottom screw has voltage, and the fuse next to it does not and there is a potential difference necessary for the current flow.

2. Connection 2 does not work because there is no closed circuit. (in this case, the top is current) But when screwing the fuse, a short circuit will occur, because both wires are connected to the phase wire.

czartek70 wrote:

The current is on the bottom left and on the top right.

I have big concerns that our colleague has such an old installation that it is secured there (zero).
To the author; If you have fuses screwed in, the neon indicator lights in both fuses?

zbich70 wrote:

Pay attention to this paragraph
Quotation:
All work on the electrical installation may only be carried out by qualified persons or electrical installation companies having appropriate qualifications authorizing them to perform them.

Thank you for your response. I asked several people and said that on the episode counter - further installation at home "you can do what you want". It is known that you must have knowledge first. But looking at the legal perspective, it is apparently possible. I know that if a misfortune occurs then the questions begin who did, did it have the rights etc.

Assuming that I will complete the entire installation myself, I will connect the switchgear, and the electrician will move the meter to the other wall and connect it to "my" switchboard, won't you get it from the power plant? Apparently this option is allowed. I won't do this, I just ask out of curiosity

Generally, you should power this power from one phase with a thicker wire. What cable cross-section is present in this flush-mounted box?

czartek70 wrote:

I have one more question and one request.

Question:
In that case, can I connect the following mini switchgears to the flush-mounted box near the meter?

You can't, because the can is probably responsible for the already separated circuit.

Colleague Reszek may be right.
And if it has it, you will have to bring the installation to a state that does not defy today's standards as soon as possible.
However, don't do it yourself and invite a competent person.

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

czartek70 wrote:

The current is on the bottom left and on the top right.

I have big concerns that our colleague has such an old installation that it is secured there (zero).
To the author; If you have fuses screwed in, the neon indicator lights in both fuses?

The installation is nearly 100 years old. The situation looks like this:

No fuses.

off (no current flowing) on (current flowing)
no fuse one no fuse two
on (current flows) off (not flowing)


but if I connect the lower terminals, i.e. on (current flows) it is not on (not flowing). Connect or plug in a light bulb that is lit despite the lack of fuses


With fuses.

on (electricity flows) on (electricity flows)
fuse one fuse two
on (electricity flows) on (electricity flows)


If I understood the question correctly, I'm afraid not

Which fuse was blown and sealed? Outside this board or in it?
In general, it should look like from this sealed goes the wire to the meter, from the meter to the upper contacts of these fuse sockets, which should be bridged, and from the lower two separate circuits go to the lights and sockets. But I see that it looks a bit different for you. As mentioned, the neutral / neutral terminal is under the board. Theoretically, you can pull it out of the wall and put it back. But in general I advise, as mentioned above, to call an ambulance and say that you need to get to the terminals of the meter or pre-meter protection because there is a malfunction and let them give you permission to remove the seals. Later, this involves additional costs ~ PLN 30 for resealing, added to the next invoice.

KarolpogodA wrote:

Generally, you should power this power from one phase with a thicker wire. What cable cross-section is present in this flush-mounted box?

I need to check. Quite unfortunately 1.5mm. In terms of circuits it looks like this:

1.Circuit one lamp + 2 sockets.
2. Circuit one lamp + 2 sockets.
I know there shouldn't be a lamp + socket on one, but it is. Assuming that I will not use those sockets and light, can it be connected then? This is an uninhabited house. Electricity needs to cut windows and urgently fix the ceiling. I will probably commission the installation project later. [

quote = "kkas12"] Reszek's colleague may be right.
And if it has it, you will have to bring the installation to a state that does not defy today's standards as soon as possible.
However, don't do it yourself and invite a competent person. [/ Quote]
how can I check it, I'll be there tomorrow so I can see

And if it is as you write above that the bulb connected to the upper or lower terminals (the lower one is an error, the voltage should be inside the socket, on the foot) then probably as a colleague mentioned, you still have a fuse on zero / neutral, the residue from old systems and left to itself. In this case, it needs to be corrected immediately, and a good electrician will know what and how.

edit. In brief. I think on the right is "Zero" (to be sure). You unscrew the wires (upper and lower clamp) and bridge with each other. Then you connect the power supply from the second socket to the first socket, and from it you can go away with the second circuit.

czartek70 wrote:

The installation is nearly 100 years old.

Button right.

czartek70 wrote:

No fuses.

off (no current flowing) on (current flowing)
no fuse one no fuse two
on (current flows) off (not flowing)


but if I connect the lower terminals, i.e. on (current flows) it is not on (not flowing). Connect or plug in a light bulb that is lit despite the lack of fuses


With fuses.

on (electricity flows) on (electricity flows)
fuse one fuse two
on (electricity flows) on (electricity flows)


If I understood the question correctly, I'm afraid not

After reading this post, one thought comes to your mind - stop rummaging there and get the job done by a qualified person.

Brivido wrote:

Which fuse was blown and sealed? Outside this board or in it?
In general, it should look like from this sealed goes the wire to the meter, from the meter to the upper contacts of these fuse sockets, which should be bridged, and from the lower two separate circuits go to the lights and sockets. But I see that it looks a bit different for you. As mentioned, the neutral / neutral terminal is under the board. Theoretically, you can pull it out of the wall and put it back. But in general I advise, as mentioned above, to call an ambulance and say that you need to get to the terminals of the meter or pre-meter protection because there is a malfunction and let them give you permission to remove the seals. Later, this involves additional costs ~ PLN 30 for resealing, added to the next invoice.

Let me explain. The scheme looks like this.

Column -> protections on the outer wall of the building (3 phases) ---> wires go through the attic to the box turn in the corridor, here is one phase for the installation I was talking about (here a fuse was blown) -> from this boxes are going wires to the meter.

I just expected that it will be given phase for one fuse and later connected together (from above), but it is not like that,


Still only sure u. The first fuse should be given a phase from above, then the first and second fused with a bridge from above. From the bottom of this fuse, the phase wire of the sockets should be connected to 1, the phase 2 of the lighting should be connected to the fuse. However, all 3 neutral wires (the first from the sealed box, the second from the perimeter of the sockets, the third from the lighting circuit) meet under the meter and are connected in one cube. Am i wrong

czartek70 wrote:

Let me explain. The scheme looks like this.

Column -> protections on the outer wall of the building (3 phases) ---> wires go through the attic to the box turn in the corridor, here is one phase for the installation I was talking about (here a fuse was blown) -> from this boxes are going wires to the meter.

I just expected that it will be given phase for one fuse and later connected together (from above), but it is not like that,


Still only sure u. The first fuse should be given a phase from above, then the first and second fused with a bridge from above. From the bottom of this fuse, the phase wire of the sockets should be connected to 1, the phase 2 of the lighting should be connected to the fuse. However, all 3 neutral wires (the first from the sealed box, the second from the perimeter of the sockets, the third from the lighting circuit) meet under the meter and are connected in one cube. Am i wrong

Where's the pattern?

Łukasz-O wrote:

czartek70 wrote:


The installation is nearly 100 years old.

Button right.

The house was built 90 years ago, the installation was made immediately after construction. I received such information from my grandparents. Assuming that a second meter was added later, the installation is + 50 years old

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Łukasz-O wrote:

Where's the pattern?

I used a mental shortcut, the installation scheme is missing. A few posts above, a colleague asked which fuse had blown, hence I wrote what the road from the pole to the counter looks like

czartek70 wrote:

I used a mental shortcut, the installation scheme is missing. A few posts above, a colleague asked which fuse had blown, hence I wrote what the road from the pole to the counter looks like

There are no abbreviations in electrical engineering, or you know what you are doing or not.
I close the topic, Elektroda is not a school.