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Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

sebonieb 48303 36
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Jaki router do dużego domu z urządzeniem w strychu wybrać, żeby na dwóch niższych piętrach mieć dobry zasięg i prędkość: TP-LINK Archer C7 czy Archer C1200?

Nie ma jednego routera, który zapewni bardzo dobry zasięg i prędkość w całym dużym domu ze strychem; właściwe rozwiązanie to główny router plus dodatkowy punkt dostępowy w słabszych miejscach, najlepiej połączony kablem Ethernet [#16571054][#16571761] Jeśli nie da się poprowadzić kabla, można spróbować PLC, ale to droższe i zależne od instalacji elektrycznej [#16571079][#16571761] Wzmacniacze/repeatery są tu najgorszym pomysłem, jeśli zależy Ci na zasięgu i szybkości [#16571087] Sama wymiana na mocniejszy model nie rozwiązuje problemu, bo Wi‑Fi zależy od obu stron połączenia i od przeszkód w budynku [#16571493][#16571948]
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  • #31 16600821
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    I have already updated the router software before, and I updated the drivers for the cards in one and the other were up-to-date, but after the update in one, the results were still low as I scanned as an iperf server.
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  • #32 16601292
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
    Posts: 24793
    Help: 2569
    Rate: 1528
    Test (iperf.exe) this slow laptop with another WIFI router.

    Try to upload the reins of the card / chip manufacturer instead of the laptop manufacturer.
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  • #33 16601434
    Gatki
    Level 12  
    Posts: 102
    Rate: 31
    sebonieb wrote:
    I have already updated the router software before, and I updated the drivers for the cards in one and the other were up-to-date, but after the update in one, the results were still low as I scanned as an iperf server.


    Hello, here you have FW with new rudders for radics and generally the best unoficial FW.
    https://www.asuswebstorage.com/navigate/s/AC9B06E9453F4D0CBD3D4AA26D5F37C9Y

    Suggested or even necessary NVRAM reset.
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  • #34 16888940
    vonmlody
    Level 10  
    Posts: 10
    Rate: 1
    I will raise a bit of a topic with a slightly different problem on the same topic.

    I have a two-story house, in each room an ethernet socket, in the passage between the garage and the house there are 24 fields, a wifi router is connected to it. A sector antenna is connected to the router under the suspended ceiling in the central part of the house. Cables led out to the attic to the second router (some old edimaxy) and again the sector. This upper sector indicator does not exist because it is above the vapor-permeable foil that works like a screen.

    Therefore, at the top, I put a router in AP mode in one of the rooms with a shift of 5 channels.

    Xbox one connected via Ethernet, I sit with my laptop 2 meters from the sector block in the ceiling and try to stream X while the kids watch cartoons on TV. Quality tragic, interrupting, etc. After the cable to the stationary in the office works great.

    I come to the point. I'd like to improve reliability and wifi transfers

    1. Put a new router somewhere and ignore the archaic edimaxes and sector sectors? (at the moment I have -58dB on the lap) can I replace the router with an external antenna output, or something else?

    2. Is it normal that the devices do not switch to the stronger wifi when going from the bottom to the top? I use the wifi analyzer app and I can see when it connects to which network. It only switches when the wifi is turned off for a moment or when the signal disappears at all.
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  • #35 16889007
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #36 17999827
    piotrek2555
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12
    Help: 1
    Rate: 2
    Mikrotik RouterBoard is the best.
    rb962, rb951ui-2Hnd, rb2011 with wifi. All the mikrotics that have "H" in them are good. High power. // Message for posterity.
  • #37 18000106
    m.jastrzebski
    Network and Internet specialist  
    Posts: 5238
    Help: 679
    Rate: 862
    piotrek2555 wrote:
    Mikrotik RouterBoard is the best.
    rb962, rb951ui-2Hnd, rb2011 with wifi. All the mikrotics that have "H" in them are good. High power. // Message for posterity.

    Bzudra on wheels.
    Exceeding the statutory power by mikrotika does not improve the transmission speed, indeed, in a closed room it even worsens it! This power can come in handy when you want to illegally establish a P2P connection in an open space.
    I once tested WiFi with MT with different powers. In difficult conditions (behind 2-3 walls) it worked best with power even below 100mW. Dialing 320 (or as much as the card could) gave lower speeds. The transmission is two-way and the telephone or computer will not transmit 300mW. You've tried it with high power and you paste it everywhere. And than WiFi mikrotika indoors, some market routers are doing better, unfortunately :-( For example, it is terribly lame with Samsung cells - with a perfect signal, the connection with the highest theoretically available speed will not be combined there. Let go already. The company is good, routers with great possibilities, such as the price, but WiFI is just 4 letters.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around selecting a suitable router for a large house, specifically comparing the TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 and the TP-LINK Archer C1200. Users express concerns about WiFi range and speed, particularly when the router is located in the attic. Recommendations include using a main router with additional access points or WiFi extenders to improve coverage across multiple floors. Some participants suggest that physical obstructions and interference can significantly affect performance, and emphasize the importance of proper network setup. The Asus RT-AC1200G+ is also mentioned as a potential alternative, with users discussing issues related to speed drops and stability. Overall, the consensus is that while both TP-LINK models have their merits, a more robust solution involving multiple access points or wired connections may be necessary for optimal performance in larger homes.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After two concrete walls, Wi-Fi throughput can drop by 70 % [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571054]; “Physics hasn’t changed” [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #16571948] For whole-house coverage, use one wired access point per floor and keep ping below 20 ms.

Why it matters: A realistic design prevents dead-zones, saves money, and avoids endless router swaps.

Quick Facts

• 802.11ac 2×2 link delivers up to 867 Mb/s at 80 MHz [IEEE 802.11ac]. • Ping above 100 ms signals heavy retransmits and ~50 % speed loss [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629] • Powerline speed can fall >50 % when outlets sit on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411] • Dual-band AC routers cost PLN 250–300 in 2023 [Ceneo, 2023]. • Stable HD stream needs −65 dBm or stronger RSSI [Cisco, 2020].

Can one attic router reliably serve two floors below?

Unlikely. Each brick floor adds about 15–20 dB loss; two floors plus walls easily exceed 40 dB, cutting 5 GHz range to a few metres and 2.4 GHz to one floor [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571079] Place a main router centrally and cable one access point (AP) per level for full speed [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16571054]

Which is better for range: TP-LINK Archer C7 or Archer C1200?

Both use similar 2.4 GHz radios, so wall penetration is nearly identical. The C7 adds three detachable antennas and 1300 Mb/s 5 GHz, helping only with devices on the same floor. Neither alone covers three stories; the real gain comes from extra APs [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16570994]

What network topology gives the highest speed in large houses?

  1. Run Ethernet to each floor. 2. Configure one AP per floor on non-overlapping channels. 3. Disable router-side extenders. This wired-backhaul design keeps intra-LAN transfers above 300 Mb/s on 2×2 802.11ac, over 30× faster than the 10 Mb/s radio link in the thread [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571761]

When should I use powerline (PLC) adapters, and what are their downsides?

Use PLC when you cannot run cable. Throughput ranges from 50–200 Mb/s on same-phase sockets but can drop by half or more on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411] Noise from washing machines or UPS units may cause sudden speed dips—an edge-case that forces retries and high ping.

How do I test real Wi-Fi speed with iperf?

  1. Connect PC 1 by cable and run iperf -s. 2. Connect PC 2 via Wi-Fi and run iperf -c <PC1-IP>. 3. Read the Mb/s figures; repeat on each floor. This avoids ISP limits and shows the link’s true capacity [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16600188]

Why does my phone show 170 ms ping while my PC on cable shows 12 ms?

Wireless frames retransmit when signal is weak or noisy; each retry adds latency. The thread shows phone ping 172–175 ms versus cable 12 ms, a 14× increase [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16571526] Strengthen the link (better RSSI, 20 MHz channel) to return ping below 20 ms [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629]

Should I use 20 MHz or 40 MHz channel width with a 10 Mb/s internet feed?

Select 20 MHz. Wider channels raise interference and do not boost a 10 Mb/s WAN. Reducing width improved stability on the Asus RT-AC1200G+ in the thread [Elektroda, sebap, post #16600447]

Will external or sector antennas fix my range issues?

Not much indoors. High-gain antennas narrow the beam and often miss devices above or below. Wi-Fi is two-way; your phone’s tiny antenna cannot talk back at the same gain [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007] Invest in more APs instead.

Why don’t devices switch to the stronger access point automatically?

802.11 clients decide when to roam. Most consumer gear waits until the current signal is lost before scanning. 802.11r/k/v assist roaming but remain rare on home routers [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007]

What happens if I increase transmit power above legal limits?

Speed may drop. Excess power overloads nearby receivers, causing more errors and slower rates—confirmed when 320 mW tests under-performed 100 mW [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #18000106] It can also violate local regulations.

Which budget routers work well as extra access points under PLN 300?

TP-Link Archer C6, Xiaomi Mi Router 4A Gigabit, and used Mikrotik hAP ac² all cost 220–300 PLN and support AP mode with gigabit ports (2023 street prices) [Ceneo, 2023]. Enable bridge mode, give fixed channels, and reuse existing Ethernet drops for best results.
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