Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

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#31 16600821 21 Jul 2017 19:20

sebonieb sebonieb

Level 9

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Post #31
16600821 21 Jul 2017 19:20

I have already updated the router software before, and I updated the drivers for the cards in one and the other were up-to-date, but after the update in one, the results were still low as I scanned as an iperf server.
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#32 16601292 21 Jul 2017 23:21

bogiebog bogiebog

Level 43

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Post #32
16601292 21 Jul 2017 23:21

Test (iperf.exe) this slow laptop with another WIFI router.

Try to upload the reins of the card / chip manufacturer instead of the laptop manufacturer.
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#33 16601434 22 Jul 2017 02:28

Gatki Gatki

Level 12

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Post #33
16601434 22 Jul 2017 02:28

sebonieb wrote:
I have already updated the router software before, and I updated the drivers for the cards in one and the other were up-to-date, but after the update in one, the results were still low as I scanned as an iperf server.

Hello, here you have FW with new rudders for radics and generally the best unoficial FW.
https://www.asuswebstorage.com/navigate/s/AC9B06E9453F4D0CBD3D4AA26D5F37C9Y

Suggested or even necessary NVRAM reset.
#34 16888940 13 Dec 2017 23:11

vonmlody vonmlody

Level 10

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Post #34
16888940 13 Dec 2017 23:11

I will raise a bit of a topic with a slightly different problem on the same topic.

I have a two-story house, in each room an ethernet socket, in the passage between the garage and the house there are 24 fields, a wifi router is connected to it. A sector antenna is connected to the router under the suspended ceiling in the central part of the house. Cables led out to the attic to the second router (some old edimaxy) and again the sector. This upper sector indicator does not exist because it is above the vapor-permeable foil that works like a screen.

Therefore, at the top, I put a router in AP mode in one of the rooms with a shift of 5 channels.

Xbox one connected via Ethernet, I sit with my laptop 2 meters from the sector block in the ceiling and try to stream X while the kids watch cartoons on TV. Quality tragic, interrupting, etc. After the cable to the stationary in the office works great.

I come to the point. I'd like to improve reliability and wifi transfers

1. Put a new router somewhere and ignore the archaic edimaxes and sector sectors? (at the moment I have -58dB on the lap) can I replace the router with an external antenna output, or something else?

2. Is it normal that the devices do not switch to the stronger wifi when going from the bottom to the top? I use the wifi analyzer app and I can see when it connects to which network. It only switches when the wifi is turned off for a moment or when the signal disappears at all.
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#35 16889007 13 Dec 2017 23:53

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

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Post #35
16889007 13 Dec 2017 23:53

vonmlody wrote:
...
2. Is it normal that the devices do not switch to the stronger wifi when going from the bottom to the top? I use the wifi analyzer app and I can see when it connects to which network. It only switches when the wifi is turned off for a moment or when the signal disappears at all.

Yes, that's exactly how it is supposed to work. Only when he "loses the signal" does he look for a new one. This is the specificity of the 802.11 protocol.
It is true that there is 802.11f and newer 802.11r, which are responsible for roaming (switching the client between the AP), but actually no "home" class devices have it implemented and the professional ones are also different.

Apparently, the Modecom WR-11 and WR-22 support 802.11fi, I read somewhere that it works for someone, but despite the fact that I have 3 of them in the closet, I have never checked it - so I do not know if it works. Basically WiFi works exactly as you observed. At home, I use a trick and the router tells the router to disconnect the connection with the client when the client's signal drops below a certain strength (which speeds up switching to another AP), but you will not do such a setting on an ordinary router.

I understand that the question was just a curiosity because you probably don't run up and down stairs all day and it doesn't bother you that much.

vonmlody wrote:
... can it replace the router with an external antenna output ..

Something may change, but generally the antennas are passive (they are not amplifiers). In addition, the antenna with higher gain has a more "flattened" signal propagation, thirdly, WiFi is two-way communication, so you would also have to take care of an "external antenna" in your laptop, tablet, smartphone ...

vonmlody wrote:
... in each room an ethernet socket ...

Can't you put the AP in one room on the first floor and connect it to the Ethernet socket?
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#36 17999827 06 Jun 2019 23:09

piotrek2555 piotrek2555

Level 10

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Post #36
17999827 06 Jun 2019 23:09

Mikrotik RouterBoard is the best.
rb962, rb951ui-2Hnd, rb2011 with wifi. All the mikrotics that have "H" in them are good. High power. // Message for posterity.
#37 18000106 07 Jun 2019 09:35

m.jastrzebski m.jastrzebski

Network and Internet specialist

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Post #37
18000106 07 Jun 2019 09:35

piotrek2555 wrote:
Mikrotik RouterBoard is the best.
rb962, rb951ui-2Hnd, rb2011 with wifi. All the mikrotics that have "H" in them are good. High power. // Message for posterity.

Bzudra on wheels.
Exceeding the statutory power by mikrotika does not improve the transmission speed, indeed, in a closed room it even worsens it! This power can come in handy when you want to illegally establish a P2P connection in an open space.
I once tested WiFi with MT with different powers. In difficult conditions (behind 2-3 walls) it worked best with power even below 100mW. Dialing 320 (or as much as the card could) gave lower speeds. The transmission is two-way and the telephone or computer will not transmit 300mW. You've tried it with high power and you paste it everywhere. And than WiFi mikrotika indoors, some market routers are doing better, unfortunately For example, it is terribly lame with Samsung cells - with a perfect signal, the connection with the highest theoretically available speed will not be combined there. Let go already. The company is good, routers with great possibilities, such as the price, but WiFI is just 4 letters.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around selecting a suitable router for a large house, specifically comparing the TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 and the TP-LINK Archer C1200. Users express concerns about WiFi range and speed, particularly when the router is located in the attic. Recommendations include using a main router with additional access points or WiFi extenders to improve coverage across multiple floors. Some participants suggest that physical obstructions and interference can significantly affect performance, and emphasize the importance of proper network setup. The Asus RT-AC1200G+ is also mentioned as a potential alternative, with users discussing issues related to speed drops and stability. Overall, the consensus is that while both TP-LINK models have their merits, a more robust solution involving multiple access points or wired connections may be necessary for optimal performance in larger homes.
Summary generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: After two concrete walls, Wi-Fi throughput can drop by 70 % [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571054]; “Physics hasn’t changed” [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #16571948] For whole-house coverage, use one wired access point per floor and keep ping below 20 ms.

Why it matters: A realistic design prevents dead-zones, saves money, and avoids endless router swaps.

Quick Facts

• 802.11ac 2×2 link delivers up to 867 Mb/s at 80 MHz [IEEE 802.11ac].
• Ping above 100 ms signals heavy retransmits and ~50 % speed loss [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629]
• Powerline speed can fall >50 % when outlets sit on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411]
• Dual-band AC routers cost PLN 250–300 in 2023 [Ceneo, 2023].
• Stable HD stream needs −65 dBm or stronger RSSI [Cisco, 2020].

Can one attic router reliably serve two floors below?

Unlikely. Each brick floor adds about 15–20 dB loss; two floors plus walls easily exceed 40 dB, cutting 5 GHz range to a few metres and 2.4 GHz to one floor [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571079] Place a main router centrally and cable one access point (AP) per level for full speed [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16571054]

Which is better for range: TP-LINK Archer C7 or Archer C1200?

Both use similar 2.4 GHz radios, so wall penetration is nearly identical. The C7 adds three detachable antennas and 1300 Mb/s 5 GHz, helping only with devices on the same floor. Neither alone covers three stories; the real gain comes from extra APs [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16570994]

What network topology gives the highest speed in large houses?

Run Ethernet to each floor. 2. Configure one AP per floor on non-overlapping channels. 3. Disable router-side extenders. This wired-backhaul design keeps intra-LAN transfers above 300 Mb/s on 2×2 802.11ac, over 30× faster than the 10 Mb/s radio link in the thread [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571761]

When should I use powerline (PLC) adapters, and what are their downsides?

Use PLC when you cannot run cable. Throughput ranges from 50–200 Mb/s on same-phase sockets but can drop by half or more on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411] Noise from washing machines or UPS units may cause sudden speed dips—an edge-case that forces retries and high ping.

How do I test real Wi-Fi speed with iperf?

Connect PC 1 by cable and run iperf -s. 2. Connect PC 2 via Wi-Fi and run iperf -c <PC1-IP>. 3. Read the Mb/s figures; repeat on each floor. This avoids ISP limits and shows the link’s true capacity [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16600188]

Why does my phone show 170 ms ping while my PC on cable shows 12 ms?

Wireless frames retransmit when signal is weak or noisy; each retry adds latency. The thread shows phone ping 172–175 ms versus cable 12 ms, a 14× increase [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16571526] Strengthen the link (better RSSI, 20 MHz channel) to return ping below 20 ms [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629]

Should I use 20 MHz or 40 MHz channel width with a 10 Mb/s internet feed?

Select 20 MHz. Wider channels raise interference and do not boost a 10 Mb/s WAN. Reducing width improved stability on the Asus RT-AC1200G+ in the thread [Elektroda, sebap, post #16600447]

Will external or sector antennas fix my range issues?

Not much indoors. High-gain antennas narrow the beam and often miss devices above or below. Wi-Fi is two-way; your phone’s tiny antenna cannot talk back at the same gain [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007] Invest in more APs instead.

Why don’t devices switch to the stronger access point automatically?

802.11 clients decide when to roam. Most consumer gear waits until the current signal is lost before scanning. 802.11r/k/v assist roaming but remain rare on home routers [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007]

How can I stabilise speeds on an Asus RT-AC1200G+?

Update firmware, then reset NVRAM and reconfigure. One unofficial build with newer radio drivers fixed inconsistent throughput for users [Elektroda, Gatki, post #16601434] Also keep devices 1–2 m from antennas; 50 cm proved “too close, not good” [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16600509]

What happens if I increase transmit power above legal limits?

Speed may drop. Excess power overloads nearby receivers, causing more errors and slower rates—confirmed when 320 mW tests under-performed 100 mW [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #18000106] It can also violate local regulations.

Which budget routers work well as extra access points under PLN 300?

TP-Link Archer C6, Xiaomi Mi Router 4A Gigabit, and used Mikrotik hAP ac² all cost 220–300 PLN and support AP mode with gigabit ports (2023 street prices) [Ceneo, 2023]. Enable bridge mode, give fixed channels, and reuse existing Ethernet drops for best results.