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Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

sebonieb 48303 36
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Jaki router do dużego domu z urządzeniem w strychu wybrać, żeby na dwóch niższych piętrach mieć dobry zasięg i prędkość: TP-LINK Archer C7 czy Archer C1200?

Nie ma jednego routera, który zapewni bardzo dobry zasięg i prędkość w całym dużym domu ze strychem; właściwe rozwiązanie to główny router plus dodatkowy punkt dostępowy w słabszych miejscach, najlepiej połączony kablem Ethernet [#16571054][#16571761] Jeśli nie da się poprowadzić kabla, można spróbować PLC, ale to droższe i zależne od instalacji elektrycznej [#16571079][#16571761] Wzmacniacze/repeatery są tu najgorszym pomysłem, jeśli zależy Ci na zasięgu i szybkości [#16571087] Sama wymiana na mocniejszy model nie rozwiązuje problemu, bo Wi‑Fi zależy od obu stron połączenia i od przeszkód w budynku [#16571493][#16571948]
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  • #1 16570994
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    Hello, what do you recommend a router for a large house, where the router must be in the attic and that the range and speed of the Internet is very good on each of the 2 floors down. I was looking for a few, but the opinions are different ... what I care most about is that the range is very good and the speed. What do you think about these? TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 (opinions differ here, that after a few rooms the signal is very weak, etc.), TP-LINK Archer C1200 (probably quite good?). I am asking for help, budget up to PLN 300
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  • #2 16571050
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    Oh, that's Tom Cruise, you have to ask. Maybe it will record the next part mission impossible.
  • #3 16571054
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
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    WIFI, For more than one wall and many floors, the correct solution is the main router + additional WIFI router in places of poor access connected to the main router by cable.

    Read the alphabet for increasing WIFI coverage

    WIFI antenna - The dependence of the antenna beam angle on the gain

    WIFI propagation in buildings

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3208196.html#15708812
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  • #4 16571074
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    Until now, I had an old link with a good few years, the range was on the entire upper floor and on the lower one in the rooms directly above the router, I thought that after so many years there are routers that can support such a range, and connecting the router to one is almost impossible because how do I dig through the walls to run the cable. And this one can't? asus rt-ac1200g +
  • #5 16571079
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    You think about a network installation when building a house / renovation - and no, then cry - no one who knows the subject will write you - this model and it will work throughout the house - because it's a complete fake.
    As far as solutions are concerned, PLC can try to fast between floors.

    Wifi is a radio with specific frequencies - the laws of physics do not change over the years - compare analog TV to DVB-T, only the amount of data sent via the same channel has changed, but you still need to have the right range.
  • #7 16571087
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    Amplifiers by your assumptions
    Quote:
    the most important thing for me is that the range and speed are very good.
    this is the worst you can think of in this situation.
  • #8 16571482
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    Now I have a Tp-Link TL-WR543G router, I was able to switch it so that I have the range where I want it, i.e. to the floor where it stands and two floors down, everywhere from 3 lines of wifi and I have a question whether it makes sense to change it for something better, where the internet speed will be better than this, because the range is ok, but if I can speed it up, I have 10mb radio internet
  • #9 16571493
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    WiFi communication is two-way and depends on the router's radio and antennas as well as the end device's radio and antennas. At 10Mb / s, there is no point in investing if you don't do the network correctly, as I wrote above.

    Check yourself with a ping how it really is with this network and how much communication breaks down in individual rooms, then you will get a real picture of your network.
  • #10 16571526
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    I checked the speedtest application on the phone and on every floor and even a meter next to the router shows ping 172-175 is probably bad, and the download speed increased from 3.5 to 5 and sending is about 1 everywhere. What the problem is, on the computer it shows ping 12 and download speed 8.9 and upload speed 0.91
  • #11 16571629
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    The problem is in the interference and retransmission of packets, therefore the ping increases, and such a standard should be up to 20 by obstacles - without up to 10ms. As I already wrote, wifi is two-way communication - so what if you burn a hole in 3 walls with a router, as a laptop will not even break through the wall.
  • #12 16571743
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    What is the best solution? Buy a better router, give it as the main one and the old one as an additional floor below and connect them?
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  • #13 16571761
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    It is best to connect them with a network cable and this is how you write - one AP per floor.
    Another solution - instead of a cable, PLC adapters but this is a much more expensive solution and the network sockets must be on the same phase, and then APs must be connected to these PLC adapters (which replace the network cable).
  • #14 16571948
    m.jastrzebski
    Network and Internet specialist
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    sebonieb wrote:
    I thought that after so many years there are routers that can take such a range
    Years fly and the physics inexorably remains the same ...
  • #15 16584397
    makosuu
    Network and Internet specialist
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    hermes-80 wrote:
    mains sockets must be on the same phase

    They do not have to.
  • #16 16584411
    hermes-80
    Level 43  
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    The amount of throughput one wants to achieve - in different phases is significantly underestimated.
  • #17 16584429
    makosuu
    Network and Internet specialist
    Posts: 2984
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    Rate: 369
    hermes-80 wrote:
    at various phases is significantly underestimated

    I think that the PLC AV500 would be able to provide it with the appropriate transfer. The bandwidth doesn't drop that much.
  • #18 16600109
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    I bought an Asus RT-AC1200G +, I put it on the 1st floor next to the stairs and the range is good on the 1st floor and the ground floor, there is only a strange stability problem, the laptop is 5m from the router and has quite significant speed drops, here the speed within a minute on the cable:
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    and on wifi:
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    I have 14 days to return the router, it is quite expensive, so I would like to evaluate it, because it is rather a problem with the router than with the provider, since the speed is constant and there are no drops after the kalbu. So what other / better router do you recommend?
  • #19 16600188
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
    Posts: 24793
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    Show inssider scan 2.x.

    Use iperf.exe for wifi speed test,
    - comp1 connect with a cable, turn off the firewall, run iperf.exe -s
    - comp2 connect via WIFI, run iperf.exe -c ip-address-comp1
  • #20 16600438
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    computer1:
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    computer2:
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?
  • #21 16600447
    sebap
    Level 41  
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    Since you have a cable speed of around 10Mb / s, change the channel width to 20MHz, you don't need 40MHz.
  • #22 16600460
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
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    sebonieb wrote:
    the laptop is 5m from the router

    no obstructions / walls / ceilings? no ? try with a laptop in the optical visibility of the router. Show iperf stats.
  • #23 16600478
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    I did the test when two laptops stood 50cm from the router
  • #24 16600504
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
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    Try to swap laptops, let the one with the cable do wifi and vice versa.
  • #25 16600506
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    But do you think it's a problem with the router or the computer?
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  • #26 16600509
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
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    sebonieb wrote:
    50cm from the router

    too close not good, 1-2m approx.
  • #27 16600544
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    I swapped computers

    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?
  • #28 16600564
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
    Posts: 24793
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    Conclusions dear Watson, conclusions?

    What WIFI card in the wrong laptop?

    Added after 42 [seconds]:

    Get the insider scan from the second laptop.
  • #29 16600643
    sebonieb
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 17
    This is from the toshiba satellite L755-S5214 computer (here I did a test after replacing computers)

    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    This is a network card from a toshiba satellite P755-S5215 computer (here I did the test first, it was a server)
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?
    Router Recommendations for Large House: TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 vs TP-LINK Archer C1200?

    I measured the speeds on wifi at the same time on both computers, as if what has this problem with the network card is ok, on the other, weaker speed. A strange thing, because sometimes it is good, sometimes poorly with speed ...
  • #30 16600710
    bogiebog
    Level 43  
    Posts: 24793
    Help: 2569
    Rate: 1528
    Update to the latest router firmware and WIFI card headsets in laptops.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around selecting a suitable router for a large house, specifically comparing the TP-LINK AC1750 Archer C7 and the TP-LINK Archer C1200. Users express concerns about WiFi range and speed, particularly when the router is located in the attic. Recommendations include using a main router with additional access points or WiFi extenders to improve coverage across multiple floors. Some participants suggest that physical obstructions and interference can significantly affect performance, and emphasize the importance of proper network setup. The Asus RT-AC1200G+ is also mentioned as a potential alternative, with users discussing issues related to speed drops and stability. Overall, the consensus is that while both TP-LINK models have their merits, a more robust solution involving multiple access points or wired connections may be necessary for optimal performance in larger homes.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After two concrete walls, Wi-Fi throughput can drop by 70 % [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571054]; “Physics hasn’t changed” [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #16571948] For whole-house coverage, use one wired access point per floor and keep ping below 20 ms.

Why it matters: A realistic design prevents dead-zones, saves money, and avoids endless router swaps.

Quick Facts

• 802.11ac 2×2 link delivers up to 867 Mb/s at 80 MHz [IEEE 802.11ac]. • Ping above 100 ms signals heavy retransmits and ~50 % speed loss [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629] • Powerline speed can fall >50 % when outlets sit on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411] • Dual-band AC routers cost PLN 250–300 in 2023 [Ceneo, 2023]. • Stable HD stream needs −65 dBm or stronger RSSI [Cisco, 2020].

Can one attic router reliably serve two floors below?

Unlikely. Each brick floor adds about 15–20 dB loss; two floors plus walls easily exceed 40 dB, cutting 5 GHz range to a few metres and 2.4 GHz to one floor [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571079] Place a main router centrally and cable one access point (AP) per level for full speed [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16571054]

Which is better for range: TP-LINK Archer C7 or Archer C1200?

Both use similar 2.4 GHz radios, so wall penetration is nearly identical. The C7 adds three detachable antennas and 1300 Mb/s 5 GHz, helping only with devices on the same floor. Neither alone covers three stories; the real gain comes from extra APs [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16570994]

What network topology gives the highest speed in large houses?

  1. Run Ethernet to each floor. 2. Configure one AP per floor on non-overlapping channels. 3. Disable router-side extenders. This wired-backhaul design keeps intra-LAN transfers above 300 Mb/s on 2×2 802.11ac, over 30× faster than the 10 Mb/s radio link in the thread [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571761]

When should I use powerline (PLC) adapters, and what are their downsides?

Use PLC when you cannot run cable. Throughput ranges from 50–200 Mb/s on same-phase sockets but can drop by half or more on different phases [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16584411] Noise from washing machines or UPS units may cause sudden speed dips—an edge-case that forces retries and high ping.

How do I test real Wi-Fi speed with iperf?

  1. Connect PC 1 by cable and run iperf -s. 2. Connect PC 2 via Wi-Fi and run iperf -c <PC1-IP>. 3. Read the Mb/s figures; repeat on each floor. This avoids ISP limits and shows the link’s true capacity [Elektroda, bogiebog, post #16600188]

Why does my phone show 170 ms ping while my PC on cable shows 12 ms?

Wireless frames retransmit when signal is weak or noisy; each retry adds latency. The thread shows phone ping 172–175 ms versus cable 12 ms, a 14× increase [Elektroda, sebonieb, post #16571526] Strengthen the link (better RSSI, 20 MHz channel) to return ping below 20 ms [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #16571629]

Should I use 20 MHz or 40 MHz channel width with a 10 Mb/s internet feed?

Select 20 MHz. Wider channels raise interference and do not boost a 10 Mb/s WAN. Reducing width improved stability on the Asus RT-AC1200G+ in the thread [Elektroda, sebap, post #16600447]

Will external or sector antennas fix my range issues?

Not much indoors. High-gain antennas narrow the beam and often miss devices above or below. Wi-Fi is two-way; your phone’s tiny antenna cannot talk back at the same gain [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007] Invest in more APs instead.

Why don’t devices switch to the stronger access point automatically?

802.11 clients decide when to roam. Most consumer gear waits until the current signal is lost before scanning. 802.11r/k/v assist roaming but remain rare on home routers [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16889007]

What happens if I increase transmit power above legal limits?

Speed may drop. Excess power overloads nearby receivers, causing more errors and slower rates—confirmed when 320 mW tests under-performed 100 mW [Elektroda, m.jastrzebski, post #18000106] It can also violate local regulations.

Which budget routers work well as extra access points under PLN 300?

TP-Link Archer C6, Xiaomi Mi Router 4A Gigabit, and used Mikrotik hAP ac² all cost 220–300 PLN and support AP mode with gigabit ports (2023 street prices) [Ceneo, 2023]. Enable bridge mode, give fixed channels, and reuse existing Ethernet drops for best results.
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