Peugeot Speedfight 2 AC - - Converted to LC 70ccm, - boils water.

Hello everyone.
I started to replace and convert the engine of the Peugeot Speedfight 2 AC water-cooled scooter to the liquid-cooled LC version.

I bought a cylinder, piston and 70cc PowerForce heads.
Cooler, pump, thermostat, temperature sensor and temperature indicator.

Original carburetor GURTNER FRANCE on the carburetor says 12/12 and the output to the engine is 17mm The nozzle was original 72 I also had a new 60 which I drilled with a 0.8 drill

I mounted everything scooter that flies like a rocket without comparison to 50 air-cooled.

Initially, I drove around the yard with no problem. Now I drove 3km and here the uphill stairs have already started ..: c The temperature has risen so that the pressure of the hose bursts, as it turned out the plug did not have a pressure valve, it had, but was not drilled ..; c

Now I do not know where to look for the problem, the cooler is hot, I put an electronic temperature sensor and it reaches 90 degrees. The hoses are all open, I turned the thermostat because I thought it might be blocked, but it's still lame ..

The pump from what I can see is pumping since the cooler is hot and the boiling of the water has unsealed water on the o-ring when it heats up.

I do not know if the cooler is not working or looking for a problem in something else.

In the previous Air-Cooled version, the engine was also overheating, so that the spark plug stopped giving a spark. It turned out that the stub pipe limiting the amount of air in front of the filter is missing. I put a 20cm long hose there with an elbow at the end and the problem disappeared with overheating and the scooter never overheated so that it went out.
After the modification, I pulled out the tube and changed the nozzle to 80 t and drilled 60 with 0.8 drill because there was no such in the store. Thinking that maybe he was overheating because there was not enough fuel ..

Please help!

Should I put back the 72 nozzles as in 50ccm and this tube ??



Added after 1 [hours] 26 [minutes]:

Take a look at the color of the candle ??


Added after 49 [seconds]:



Added after 3 [minutes]:

Buddy, I either missed it, or you didn't say - do you have a fan behind the radiator. The radiator is usually hidden behind an openwork diaphragm (dummy) so that air reaches it while driving. I suppose your converted vehicle may have a "top" radiator and no fan. Check fluid pump that impeller has not come off. Bleed the cooling system and maintain proper coolant condition.

There is no fan in the original version .. I think I will buy a bigger cooler with a fan from 125cc. Second thing is the pump doing a lot of pressure ?? tz the hose should expand as it squeezes with fingers after adding gas ??

There is a pump regeneration instruction on the Internet:
http://forum.mieloch.pl/jak-naprawic-pompe-wody-t62003.html

The question is whether this plastic is cut next to what is the pump block or the plastic .. What kind of glue to stick it?

Did you have a vented system (air vent on the head)?
These Peugeots have faulty liquid pumps. They often leak, and as they cannot be dismantled (glued), only replacement with a new one is possible. The drive is not twisted?
Check that the thermostat starts opening at 65 ° C.
There was no blowout of the head gasket?
Cooler not muddy, has proper cooling air flow?

The new cylinder gasket is intact. I'll try to cut the pump open. However, the cooler is 90 degrees, I think it does not work

And since when is 90 ° C a problem?
The second thing is water in the system

90 degrees is normal temperature. How the hose burst was the pressure caused by the blow from the combustion chamber. The liquid can also be poured in anhydrous. Robust but if despite the 90 degrees. the hoses swell, I put the gasket on.

I take the pump apart and there is no rotor there ... How is it possible that the radiator has 90 degrees if the pump does not pump because there are no flakes?

Do you know where to buy a pump that will have a non-plastic impeller?

Then you have to look for a racing product ... Recently I was looking for something, I came across pump replacements (plastic) for PLN 100. I suspect you won't find aluminum anywhere.

BANANvanDYK wrote:

Then you have to look for a racing product ... Recently I was looking for something, I came across pump replacements (plastic) for PLN 100. I suspect you won't find aluminum anywhere.

Yeah racing ^^ heh the paper will accept all the nonsense and all the same chinszczyzna at auctions ...

Is there a dismountable metal pump for speedfight?

What if I put a pump to support the water circulation in cars?

Such a pump will work. The problem may be the size of the nozzles and the need for constant power supply from the battery, which may "not work out". This "patent" will have an effect on the appearance of the vehicle.

It will not be visible under the plastic. Hmmm .. What about an ordinary metal pump?

Added after 9 [hours] 23 [minutes]:

Nothing to buy a new Chinese pump .. And some kind of borygo or petrygo liquid will have a higher boiling point. I wonder if the water did not break this pump, high pressure and no vent in the plug?

This electric pump has two disadvantages. First, it gets electricity that the alternator does not generate much. Secondly, the limited working time due to the durability of the brushes in the electric motor (a better solution is a modern pump with a brushless motor - but even a stimulant will be expensive).
If you use a normal pump, it is mandatory to use coolant - water does not lubricate the sealant. The type of fluid is practically irrelevant.
How can you get the sealant from the original pump. I wonder if they have introduced something deliberate there that these pumps are failing. You may have bought the engine already with an overheating defect caused by damaged blades (the only question is how did this damage happen). The increase in pressure damaged the seal in the pump.

BANANvanDYK wrote:

This electric pump has two disadvantages. First, it gets electricity that the alternator does not generate much. Secondly, the limited working time due to the durability of the brushes in the electric motor (a better solution is a modern pump with a brushless motor - but even a stimulant will be expensive).
If you use a normal pump, it is mandatory to use coolant - water does not lubricate the sealant. The type of fluid is practically irrelevant.
How can you get the sealant from the original pump. I wonder if they have introduced something deliberate there that these pumps are failing. You may have bought the engine already with an overheating defect caused by damaged blades (the only question is how did this damage happen). The increase in pressure damaged the seal in the pump.

Have you read the topic though? The cylinder is new, it is like overheating defect on the old cylinder- AC now is new 70cc- LC
Rather, I could buy a damaged pump ... For a while the water was boiling and maybe the pressure blew up the blades
I just don't know how, but since the pressure of the hose burst it, let's say it was possible .. Amazing. Not why the plugs do not have a vent ...

If I knew that these pumps are so defective, I would buy a new one right away. I had not dealt with the pump before, only the fan was there. And someone thought to put a pump from Piaggio? There it is probably metal and much better.

Continue the same after changing the pump. Probably because I overheated it a few times and lost some power ... I bought coolers from 125 with a sensor and a fan, now the fan turns on in the middle of the scale and it only sticks out above the plastic because the engine does not fit.

Added after 6 [hours] 11 [minutes]:

I don't want to open a new topic for this scooter anymore:
What should be the compression in 50ccm LC and what in 70ccm LC
What can a compression sensor be made of. I have the manometer, the cable is the biggest, I have a problem with the cylinder connector instead of a candle ..

with this cooler, it seems to me that this is not a solution, since the scooter does not have a fan as standard, because it did not need it. At the beginning, I would have knocked out the thermostat and put it back without, because I think he was the culprit. As for the compression gauge, break some old spark plug until the metal collar remains, thread it in the middle and push in the complete car valve. Pour it overnight with good glue (not on the cylinder side) and it's ready

Or this Power Force WM cylinder from Allegro is some kind of defective ...

hehe Is it powerforce from motorland or WM from wilmat ?? Powerforce should be walking right now. WM may swell As for the radiator breather - if you did it, it's not good. For circulation to work, you must have the pressure generated by the pump. By making an air vent, the water may have a lower flow velocity. I have the impression that you have a rolled head gasket - the WM cylinder gaskets are tragically made and it's hard to insert them into the head, also it can be this problem

Where can I buy a good gasket up to 70cc? I bought the cylinder on the Allegro from this guy, the cylinder and the piston seem very well finished, but with the head it is not visible that it is Chinese, because sharp edges are not finished everywhere, castings are not polished at the krucic. : http://allegro.pl/cylinder-power-force-70cc-speedfight-x-race-lc-hit-i6794039212.html
Please forgive the link, but if there is someone to buy it better to buy a narrative. The question is whether the original head is not too small to 70cc, because the narku is sold without the head.

first check if it's the seal's fault before you buy it The cylinder is ok